Out of Town

Friday 2^nd May

There have been clear blue cloudless skies for the past few days - unbroken sunshine from 6.10 when the sun rises to 5.50 when it sets!

When I am at the house I spend most of my time sitting under the covered veranda enjoying the fresh air and looking out into the garden. I have an electric socket so I can continue to use the laptop and the internet.

Yesterday afternoon Charles and Precious took me out to see the solar pump installed for a support group beyond Manungu, Mr & Mrs. Sianga joined us.. It was good to get away from the town for a while. Mrs. Sianga has told me that I need to visit a rural area to understand the real hardship of the people there – Jennipher and others tell me life is much harder in the 'villages'. Here a villlage is where the houses are far apart and people live off the land. Jennipher told me today that she was taken out to a 'village' and left to make her way back with a bike – cycling and walking it took her three days! A village is not a cluster of houses as we know it in the UK, but a remote area.. I have said that I will make time to pay a visit whenever Mrs. Sianga is free to take me.

We were invited to sit down - the people remembered me from previous visits, though of course I couldn't be sure who I had met previously. Warren, who runs the group, arrived a little later and gave us a tour of the plot. He is busy replacing some trees with fruit trees – including avacados. I told him about guacamole and promised a recipe! He will leave the existing trees until the new ones have grown sufficiently to take their place – he doesn't want to have bare land at any point. He has started growing some chinese mustard plants which he says are in much demand and fetch a good price. The solar pump is working OK, but the water level in the well is very low at a time of year when it should be high. He fears that by August or September this year it will dry up. He already has a plan to deepen the well.

The maize crop looks good. Unlike many other maize crops this year, his maize seeds are big and it looks like the harvest will be OK. A new brick storage silo has been built. Charles sounded incredulous when Warren assured him that it would hold the equivalent of 100 bags of maize. I think I would back Warren he seems to be on top of the business here.

After our tour we sat down to resume eating boiled groundnuts and talk. We heard about Mrs. Siangas grandfather who had 16 wifes and so many grandchildren that when his farm was inherited there was not a lot to go around! I met Deana – no not the volunteer who went out with Hands Around the World, but a little girl - her namesake!

I can't remember when I first visted this support group, but Jennipher brought me out some years back. I talked to Warren and it was clear that, unlike many, this had a good chance of becoming a self-sustaining group, if they could make better use of the water supply. They had a well and even a tank, but no means of getting the water to the tank. In 2012 Deana (this time the volunteer) visited with Jennipher and has since established a small charity – 'Friends of Monze' – and managed to obtain funding for a solar pump and the necssary associated piping.

On the way back we visited the Sianga's new house into which they are about to move. It is what is now the outskirts of Monze – when I arrived in 2003 it would have been green fields – well in fact more brown ground and bush - but in the midst of the country anyway. Monze has greatly expanded over the past few years. The Siangas have a bit of land with the house and it is being well used with a large number of ochra plants that are well advanced. I was told that the art is to time the crops for when there is a ready market – apparently when the ocra is ripe there will be no competition. It will then be replaced with tomatoes. There is a small building on the site which they said could be my house next year!

I was given some groundnuts by Warren and had already forgotten to bring them twice by the time I had my lift home – I then left them in Mr. Sianga's car when they dropped me off! Today they were returned once more to me!!

I asked Mrs. Sianga if she would call briefly today to talk about the programme for the holiday club. I didn't realise that I had any ideas myself, but by the time she appeared with her husband, I had put together a few thoughts and we mulled them over and agreed an outline plan.

Apparently one of Mrs. Sainga's uncles (you might recall there were probably many!) owned this property at one time. They were interested in the changes that had been made since those days.

Jennipher arrived during our discussions and joined us. After they left she told me that she had a phone call asking her to go to Lusaka on Monday to pick up her documents. Apparently they tried to call her on Wednesday but couldn't contact her. I was surprised because I am meant to have been kept informed of progress. I was told that I would be sent an e-mail with details when the passport has been returned to Lusaka. It is a very quick turnaround and I am surprised ny the lack of a confirmatory e-mil.

Please keep up the prayers and lets hope that there is good news for us on Monday.

Tomorrow the new Bishop will be consecrated, please pray that he will be a good shepherd for the people of Monze Diocese.

With love and prayers.

Chris

Arrival of the New Bishop

Wednesday 30^th April

There was great excitement in Monze today with the arrival of the new bishop elect.

Yesterday I had arranged a couple of appointments. Precious and Charles were coming to see me to tell me a bit more about their groups. Charles works for the Danish Institute of Human Rights as the National adviser for Zambia. Precious is in charge of a small organisation that focuses on women's rights and together they are fighting to change some of the attitudes that have been present here in Zambia. If necessary they fight the cases in court.

In the afternoon I visited Buntolo where they provide support to orphaned children and try to support the guardians by selling goods they have made – bags, aprons, necklaces and baskets. I will add a photo or two – I usually bring a few goods home with me and am always interested if anyone is keen to buy them! They have a lot of problems finding a market.

On the way home from Buntolo I popped into the hospital and re-introduced myself to the doctor who has taken on the position as Director. He seems keen for me to revive the stores stock control system! I would need to be convinced that it would be properly maintained before I invested much more time on the project. However, I agreed to discuss it with Teddy and am happy to demonstrate the system – it just happens that I have a copy of the system with me!!

There is always plenty to do on the computer – checking through records and writing reports – but I am also going through a few books! I think it is a blessing that the telivision picture is so poor!

My landlady came around this morning while I was busy on the computer. She recognised me as having been around over the years, but hadn't put two and two together to realise who her tenant was. We chatted for a while and she said that she would bring a few extra chairs, more crockery and cutlery. She added that I should to let her know if there was anything I needed. As the day progressed the cleaner arrived with a succession of goodies.

I popped out to get some bread and managed also to pick up a large box of Boko cornflakes and more teabags – the two most essential items on my shopping list. Unfortunately I also need vast quantities of milk to go with them and all these items cost rather more than in the UK.Still the fruit and vegetables compensate. Last night I put together a guacomole dip using a lovely fresh and large avocardo bought a few yards from my house for equivalent of 25p.

At 15 hrs the new bishop (elect) was due in Monze. He was met at the stadium – at the far end of the high street – by a crowd, who escorted his car with dancing and drumming. Mounted police (the first I have seen in Monze) made sure the crowds around the cathedral kept in the right place. Eventually the procession reached the church and Fr. Moses entered with a large number of the local priests. He has spent the past few years in Rome, but he was brought up in Kafue – between Monze and Lusaka.

I thought that it was unlikely that a new bishop would receive a huge welcome as he came to a town in the UK. Fr. Moses will be consecrated as Bishop of Monze at a celebration on Saturday.

The church was full and I stayed just outside to listen to the addresses and prayers. For Zambia the ceremony was very short and before 16 hrs it was over and people were moving off after exchanging greetings. There were quite a number of people I knew including some from Our Lady of the Wayside and many of the local priests.

Chris

The joys of shopping

Monday 28^th April

Its good to be cooking again. To get the groceries I wander around the market and visit the small grocery shops and stalls. I meet a lot of people in this way. There are some here who have cars and then, as in the UK, tend to use them to go everywhere. With a little money you can employ a cook and a cleaner and they will sort out your food. They miss so much!!

I went into town with a spring in my step. The lady with a beatifully set up stall sold me some kapenta (small dried fish). I remarked that her stall was as beautiful as ever. She sells mainly beans and kapenta. The beans as well as being insmall containers measuring the different quantities are laid according to colour on the table and make a very effective display – I must ask if I can take a photo.

I needed some chitenges for the bag tidies and found a stall with a good variety. I chose a few traditional patterns – though knowing the material would not be manufactured anywhere remotely local!!

My next task was to buy some mayonnaise – essential for egg mayonaise sandwiches – a favourite with Jennipher. I have great problems with Nestle products. I haven't forgiven them for persuading poor and vulnerable people from giving up breast milk for their powdered variety many years ago. I have no reason to believe that their ethics have improved . So if at all possible I avoid their products. Cross and Blackwell is now owned by Nestle and it is very difficult to buy any other mayonaise in Monze. I had tried at least ten shops and was about to give up when I spotted some Nigo mayonaise – the main thing is it isn't Nestle – so they get my custom! I thanked the other shopkeepers with Twalumba to varying degrees of amusement. I bought a few boiled eggs from some young lads – as always I have mixed feelings. They should be at school not seeling eggs – but if no one buys their eggs they and their families will probably go hungry.

A few bananas, nachas (like a green skinned tangerine, but ripe inside) and an avocado pear – I already picked up some peanut butter – so I am fully equipped – well would have been if I remembered the bread!

As I passed a stall a couple of guys called me over. I went to see what they wanted. They asked me what I was doing and I said I had been shopping. It was interesting for them to know that I cooked for myself - “what about your wife”. I explained that for many years I did most of the cooking at home as well. One of the lads told me he was called Dugo, the other I am afraid had a name I cannot recall. I enjoy the banter with the local people. They are good fun and we almost always part with broad smiles on our faces.

Of course I am approached every day by people who want money. A guy yesterday said his house was broken into and everything stolen, he begged for a little and had a few items. He needed food for his family. My inclination is to put my hand in my pocket and help out. However, this happens everyday and often several times a day. The stories are harrowing and probably most are perfectly true. However, I cannot feed the whole of Monze and if I start giving to complete strangers I suspect word will quickly spread. It will also become worse for other visitors. Of course I could do less walking and shopping, but that isn't my choice. It is very rare that I give to complete strangers, but it is very painful to say no.

Yesterday was mainly a day of rest. I arrived an hour late for mass and the sermon had just began! I suspect that because there was a baptism they combined the children and adult masses. I spent much of the day sitting in the garden or in the conservatory. I also did some washing and a little cleaning. It was very good just to enjoy this place.

Chris

Relaxing

Saturday 26^th April

I now have a couple of meals under my belt and feel at home!! The cooker is OK, the shower turns off if I make sure the hot tap, which doesn't appear to work, is also switched off! A cold shower is no penance here!

Today I started to relax in what is a lovely peaceful place. I have got to know Godfrey the night watchman and Eunice the cleaner. She says she is very busy with the landlord's main house so she will probably be pleased if there is very little for her to do here. I quite enjoy a bit of sweeping and mopping!

Today I sat for a while in the conservatory / veranda.. It is probably 2 metres by 6 metres and has a tiled floor - as do all the rooms in this house. It has wire mosquito netting instead of windows but I found that when I use my binoculars it is as though I have nothing in front of me. Hence the space acts as a pleasant hide where I can spot the bird life.

Last night, as I chatted to the night watchman, what I assumed was a small owl flew past several times. I wondered whether it roosts in one of the trees in the garden. There are a number of tall trees – a large palm, a few tall Jacarandas and some Paw Paw trees. There are other trees that I can't identify. One of the tallest Jacarandas has what I assume is a variety of bourganvillia (though I am surprised that it has thorns) which has climbed to the top of the tree at least 20 metres high and its flowers can be seen displayed above it.

Friends are already finding my new abode. Diven, Obert and Raymond have visited and today Jennipher arrived with Selina nd Anna. Anna is a young girl who lost both parents and now her grandmother has also died. She has been able to attend school just outside Pemba town but has being staying with Jennipher during the holidays. Today was her first ever visit to Monze, the first time she had been inside a big house like this, certainly the first time she had spoken to people in England over Skype and, oh yes, the first time to have spring onion and tomato sandwiches!! Understandably I think she was a bit bewildered by all the new experiences!

I took the opportunity to sit in the garden and enjoy the fresh air and watch a few birds fly by. The pied crows take the place of the carrion crows we have in the UK and they have a similar call. A small bird of prey – probably a blach shouldered kite - flew over the garden and early this evening some swallows chased the insects as dusk approached. I suspect that the european swallows have left for the UK now – they probably have arrived there by now. The night sky is beautiful – a little away from the main road and therefore fewer lights. It is good to see the Southern Cross sitting high in the sky and the milky way is clearly visible. I might have another look later, trying not to disturb Godfrey.

I have certainly been blest this year finding such a lovely place.

With love and prayers

Chris

Settling in at Fairview

Friday 25^th April

Despite my lack of faith I have now moved into Fairview Road.

The house actually turns out to be even bigger than I had imagined. I have a room with en-suite facilities, lounge and kitchen. I am told that there is not likely to be anyone else staying here while I am here.

It seems that there is a major refurbishment programme going on. There is what looks like a two storey extension which seem to be designed as futher en-suite rooms to a reasonably high spec. These appear to be in addition to the four rooms in the main house. There are also builidings in the grounds which I believe are also en-suite rooms. The main building has also a couple of veranda / conservatories and there are good sized gardens all around.

I think that I will be able to relax here. I expect a fair amount of building work and last night a craftsman from Lusaka stayed overnight with his wife in one of the spare rooms. My main concern at the moment is that there is doubt whether the hotplates on the cooker are hot enough to cook properly. I would rather not have to use a brazier, but I will manage somehow!!

I was hoping that I would be able to secure this place for the volunteers. At the moment I have agreed to rent it for two months in the hope that when I leave there will be a chance to extend the tenure for those following me.

I keep getting accosted by old friends – some I recognise, others I don't, and some I have difficulty in recalling at all even when they tell me who they are!! I am sure that I have had meaningful interactions with all of them, but this is true of many. A few people who will always find me and will always tell me they are struggling, get their small annual bonus!!

On Wednesday I met Mrs Sianga and Killian again. I caught up in a slightly more structured way. It is amazing what PIZZ School is achieving – despite paying a very small fraction of the current government teachers salaries, their exam success rate in the final year is far superior and compares very well with the top private schools. Not surprisingly however retaining teachers is very difficult.

I was delighted to be called over by Irene yesterday. She has not moved despite the guy at MTN (next door) apparently having no knowledge of where she was working. As usual I received a big hug and was shown off to her friends as her best friend. I will seek out some chitenge material for another shirt.

Now that I am settled I have plenty of work to get on with. I also hope that I will also make full use of the opportunity to enjoy the environment and relax.

Chris

A Nice Place

Wednesday 23^rd April

It is a privilege to be able to live with the priests and seminarian here at the parish house. Few people manage to meet priests and religious other than in a formal manner. Here I get to know them as ordinary people with a special calling in their lives. Last night I watched the last half of Chelsea versus Althletico Madrid with Fr. Clement who is a Chelsea supporter. Over meals we talk about a variety of topics in a very open way. At supper Harrison (the seminarian) told us that a man he had been visiting in the hospital had just died. This man had mental problems and was termed 'mad' by many. A couple of days ago Harrison found him in the church grounds collapsed on the floor. He complained about his legs which were swollen. He was taken to Monze Hospital and Harrison visited, taking him bottles of coke and other items he requested. It appeared that the man talked to Harrison but few others. On Monday he said he felt much better, yet he died yesterday.

I went again along the railway line on Monday and after a couple of failures found a nice place with trees and some scrub. I sat for a while watching and reading. It did me good to be back in the countryside. On the way I passed grass and meadows teaming with numerous varieties of beautiful butterflies. I will return and explore some more.

On Tuesday Raymond took me to see the owner of a house that might be suitable to rent. Unfortunately someone else is interested. The house has a separate building with a further two self - contained units, which used to be servants quarters. Raymond told me that his was where the white people used to live in colonial times. It is now home to the more affluent in Monze. The other party is interested in renting both buildings. It looks therefore that I will lose it. This is a shame because it seemed ideal for me and the following volunteers to have as a wonderful retreat, where we could relax – it would also be somewhere my friends could come to see me. I hope to confirm the position today and deside where I will spend the remainder of my stay in Monze.

Chris

Happy Easter

Easter Sunday 20^th April

I will start by wishing everyone a Happy Easter.

Yesterday morning I met Diven and Teddy. They had looked at a couple of plots which might be suitable for building a small shop and adjoining house. Diven has for a long time dreamed of having his own property. Difficulties where he currently stays have crystallised the idea and he is keen to move on. He has a small amount to invest – currently in the form of sugar! I will make my own contribution. I am finding that money is regularly held in other forms here in Zambia. Jennipher has her assets in the form of animals – chickens, goats and pigs.- even a turkey.

Mr Meheritona spotted me and came over to talk about using an HHI flat during my stay, so I agreed to have a look. It would seem to satisfy my needs being self-contained. My only reservations are that there is some use of the sitting room by the HHI staff – and it isn't absolutely clear how much. It is also situated at the back of some offices which need to be passed by me and any guests coming in and out.

Raymond has also told me he has found a 4 bedroomed house for me!! It is of course far bigger than I need, but there are a number of volunteers – possibly seven at the end of July coming to Monze from the UK. It might prove ideal, if it is available to the end of August. I will look at it on Tuesday and make my decision.

I caught up on my mail and dealt with some of it.

When I was last here during Holy Week I was disappointed when I realised that I had no candle to light during the service. In the UK candles are provided at the churches, so it didn't occur to me to bring my own. This year I was determined that I wouldn't be candleless! I walked to 'My Prayer Shop' – quite appropriate in the cicumstances!! In fact My Prayer Shop is what we would generally call and ironmongers and general store. The guy asked me how many candles I wanted (I was tempted to ask for “four candles or was it fork handles!” remembering the Two Ronnies sketch, but resisted!). He showed me a packet with 5 candles so I decided to have two packets i.e. 10 candles. He gave me that packet and another with 6 candles and repeated 5 plus 6 equals 10 with a smile. I assume it is in the tradition of giving a bonus. This often happens in the market they will add an onion or tomato to your bag as a free gift.

I decided to wander across to the railway station and stroll along the lanes where there is a bit of countryside. I emerged by the Golf Course which is in the Fairview area where the prospective house is situated. It was good to enjoy the fresh air. The weather has been very pleasant since I arrived with quite a lot of cloud cover – but still more sun than we are used to in the UK. Temperatures during the day are probably low to mid twenties.

I spoke to Dilys on Skype, which is working well this year.

The Easter Vigil Mass started at a little after 20 hrs. The bishop is recurperating from a fractured hip and was unable to attend, so Fr. Kenan presided. During Holy Week there had been no instruments used during the services. It is lovely to hear the powerful voices singing effortlessly in harmony, but with the ringing of the bell at the Gloria, during the vigil mass, the Lenten tone was transformed into the joy of Easter and the instuments – especially the drums encouraged the congregation to stand up and dance to the vibrant rhythmns.

Teddy asked me to join him for the service which was a pleasure. He also helped me by distributing my spare candles to those who had none.

During the service there were a large number of baptisms and three new parishioners were confirmed.

It wasn't quite midnight when I carried my lighted candle the very short journey back across the grounds to the parish house.

On Sunday morning it was time to join with the congregation at Our Lady of the Wayside to again celebrate Easter.On the way I passed some ladies carrying bundles of grass, which i assume will be used to re-thatch their houses. The grass is high - about 8ft (2 1/2 metres) high and very plentiful at the moment.

For the past week or more, I had managed to slip into services without any fuss and hoped I had escaped the need to show myself. I should have known better! At the end of the vigil mass at the Cathedral Fr. Kenan announced that I was in the congregation and I had to stand up in in acknowledgement. At Our Lady of the Wayside I was at least warned that I would be asked to say a few words at the end of mass. It was an opportunity to formally convey greetings from St. Gregory's and St. Thomas More. I also particularly thanked the children for their Easter card on which they had written their names.

Mass was earlier than usual and I therefore had a little time to spare. I wanted to check out the possibility of finding a quiet place in the bush where I could relax for a while. I headed further up the Livingstone Road past Comfort Lodge. I recall when Dilys and Amy were with me in 2011. We had been to mass and Dilys was thirsty. She was very surprised when I took them to Comfort Lodge for a drink. Her experience to this point had convinced her that anything approaching luxury was absent from Monze. They enjoyed a little of the comfort promised!

I crossed the road having decided that this gave the best opportunity to reach some pleasant bush in the shortest time. I made my way to the railway and decided to walk along the line. The Countryside opens out to the East of the railway line but it wasn't clear that I would get far along the small paths. I decided not to explore but perhaps to return.another day. Along the tracks I met a couple of young men sitting on the rails. They asked me what I was doing I explained that I was enjoying the scenery. We stopped and talked for a while. They were unhappy that like so many they were struggling to find employment. They eventually explained that they were student teachers who had to try to raise money in the holidays to fund their studies. I told them that it wasn't only in Zambia that talents are being wasted – two of my children are looking for permanent work in the UK at the moment. I said goodbye to Geshan and Joseph and went on my way, not before establishing that there was indeed a nice quiet place that I could reach along some paths a little further to the south.

In the afternoon I started yet another crime thriller, deciding to sit myself outside in the late afternoon sunshine.

Over supper Fr. Kenan announced that we had some serious work to do. We would be heading for the pool table with a couple of new challengers. In the event, the table at Mayfair hadn't been replaced, but nearby there was a bar where a table was present and no other customers! Fr. Kenan and myself commenced battle and fortune was with me because I managed to keep the cue throughout the evening defending my position against all comers! My luck is unlikely to be as good when we have a return contest!!

May the Risen Lord fill you with joy especially during this Easter season.

Chris