Walking on the Wild Side - well almost!

Friday 24^th May

I had nothing planned for today.

I saw another white face today – a girl and yes she too was in a passing car. There are sometimes a few volunteers with an NGO or charity that venture along the roads in town but so far I have seen none this year. It makes me realise that I really must stand out! For many I am now a familiar sight around the roads and compounds of Monze. I am greeted by many – the children shout, often from far away “How are you?” and even if I can't see them I respond – they cannot be greeting anyone else!! When I am with Zambian friends they are usually amused by the children's greetings!

It wouldn't be right to be here in Monze without venturing into the bush. I wanted to go into town, but thought I would try to find a new route off road! In practice I soon hit the Golf Course - so my adventure became very tame. A cut through passed some houses in the posh part of Monze – yes it does have one! Another track took me close to the railway station.

Although I am pretty comfortable and feel at home in Monze, it can be tough coming up against one challenge after another. I do what I can to help my friends, but the needs are enormous. Everyone has families that are struggling – either to pay school fees or just to provide food.

Luke popped around this morning. He struggles to try to keep his nieces and nephews in school. As a hospital employee he receives a regular pay check but it isn't much and everyone looks to him for support. His niece who suffered an accident a couple of months ago desperately needs physio before it becomes too late and will also need a wheelchair.

On the way back from town I passed through some ramshackle stalls – most empty, but a few selling vegetables etc. One lady asked me to eat nshima – she had a very basic cafe were she was cooking nshima and chicken. I was tempted to stay for supper but decided to carry on home. I picked up some soya pieces. I might have mentioned that I haven't tasted anything similar in the UK. The texture is like meat and with a few spices and vegetables they make a lovely meal. They seem to be sold everywhere in little plastic bags – mine cost 20 kwacha (a little over 10p) and will provide 4 or 5 meals. Even though I will only have three more cooked meals at the guest house. I needn't worry because any provisions I have left will be eagerly snapped up by my friends. Monday I will eat out at Tooters or Food Royale with Diven and family.

Chris

Not Just a Diary

Thursday 23^rd May

I worry that my blog easily becomes more of a diary than an impression of life here

in Monze!

I am very much at home here and forget that I stand out! I have spent a lot of time chatting to friends over a cup of tea or coffee, sharing thoughts and passing on information from our different worlds and perspectives.

I have spent some time over the past few days talking with Diven. He has a little shop which was once the only shop in the road, but now is surrounded by bigger ones selling similar goods. He is lucky if he makes 25 kwacha in a day (less than £2). With this he can just about feed the family, but any additional costs cause problems. At the moment he is buying his young daughter two drinks a day each costing 3 kwacha (about 20p) – this is beyond his budget!

One way and another my friends seem to be connecting! Jennipher is now supporting Diven and Delia through their medical issues, Bright has now become friends with Diven and both were around on Monday chatting with me under the veranda. Jennipher is well known throughout Monze Hospital so we have mutual friends there.

I was up early yesterday because Fr. Clement was saying mass for my friend Maria. After mass I watched a band of women sweeping the grounds. It is traditional here to sweep even though the ground is covered with sand – I was not aware of any leaves or litter, though maybe I am not very observant!                                  

                                                            

School and college fees present a major challenge for most people in Monze. Gertrude – the cook at Our Lady of the Wayside church was unemployed for several years. She has a daughter who has exams to take in November, but there is a shortfall of 3,000 kwacha (a bit less than £200). Unless she finds the money, her daughter will not be able to take her exams. On Tuesday I met a girl – Grace – who told me that she has passed her exams to become a teacher but again there is a shortfall in payments – this time 5,000 kwacha. Despite passing her exams she will not receive a certificate and be allowed to take up a teaching post until the debt is cleared.

People struggle to find money to send their children to school and much of their income goes to this purpose, but a small misfortune can easily result in a child failing to progress.

I met friends yesterday who I helped on my last visit start a little business buying and selling Kapenta – very small dried fish. The mother clearly understands how to generate a decent income from this trade. All went well at first but she became ill with malaria ++ as they term it! A neighbour offered to help her sell the fish, but instead stole her stock and ran away with it to Lusaka. The result is that her main source of income has gone and some of her children are no longer at school.

I went to Fr. Clement's – or to be more accurate – Our Lady of the Wayside's farm. He has a good number of pigs - two or three of which are pregnant. A previous litter caught a disease and died. They planted about 5 hectares of sunflower seeds this year which should have yielded a very good harvest which they could turn into oil – using a machine that was donated from St. Gregory's church in Cheltenham. Unfortunately very few seeds have been harvested due to the lack of rain. A small amount of cow peas were grown – again the crop should have been far larger. In order to keep the oil press working they are looking into pressing some cotton seeds. This year the income for the church will be much reduced as a result of the poor harvest.

Today I was asked to look at the solar lighting at the school which is not all functioning. It is a long time since I was taught about electricity and, due to problems at customs on my last visit, the lighting didn't arrived in time for me to help install it as planned.

I have always maintained that not being an expert can have great benefits. Which reminds me of the time I was chosen to accompany a disabled sailor in a dinghy – I believe it was on the grounds that I was the most incompetent sailor around!! My disabled friend used to train others to sail and was perfectly capable of telling me what to do. If an instructor had accompanied him they would have found it difficult not to take over! But I divert!!

I sought the help of a teacher and we tried to understand how the system worked! It seemed the battery was connected to the solar panel but nothing else!! Yet the lights in question worked. We were even more baffled when they worked without the battery connected to anything!! Well after a lot of head scratching and wire tracking, we came to understand how the system was put together. Eventually comparing results from the working and non-working system we established that there was no power coming from one of the solar panels. Had I been an expert I might have found the cause, but would any of the staff be any the wiser? Now at least a small number of staff members have a better understanding of the system – and so do I!!

We have seen a few clouds this week. You notice if the sun goes behind a cloud, because it is quite rare! People tell me it is now cold. I confess to wearing a jumper when I left home before 6 hrs yesterday, but by 8 am I was very happy in a light shirt. In the mornings the sky is a beautiful bright blue – the pictures don't exaggerate the colour! The sun very soon brings a warmth that even in our summer we rarely experience.

I am still meeting friends along the way. This afternoon I had a long conversation with someone who seemed to know me, though I can't place him! I have met Jennipher several times at the hospital when she has brought clients and there a number of staff members have greeted me. The conversation usually goes “Hallo Chris – you're back, when did you come?” I explain that though back, I am nearly gone again and they respond “too bad”.

Bye for Now,

Chris

What's the Time?

Monday 20^th May

Time is a strange thing! I woke this morning at what was apparently 5.30 but it was already light outside!! We are entering winter here and the sun rises a little after 6 am and sets a little before 6pm. There is probably no more than a half hour difference between sunrise in summer and winter. Night and day arrive quickly – so unless something very strange had happened to our planet overnight my mobile was misleading me! I notice the position of the sun more here in Zambia – probably because the sun rises quickly and at midday you have to stretch your neck to see it and day and night arise and depart very quickly! With new technology our devices can synchronise themselves to external clocks and I think this is my problem!!

Until a few days ago my clock was a wristwatch which used to be my father's. To set it you wind the hands around to the correct position and the battery does the rest. A few days ago the watch stopped and since then I have relied on my laptop and mobile phone. I suspect both have been set to different time zones – both wrong!

I think I now have corrected the time zones! It is apparently 10.14 according to my laptop and 9.18 according to my phone – which, before adjustment, would previously have recorded 8.13!! So I think I am now sorted!!I will wait for everything to synchronise – at least I am reasonably confident that it is the 20^th May and the year is 2019!!

It has been a reasonably busy few days. On Friday I went to PIZZ School were I met some of the children that are being sponsored in schools and colleges around Monze. I was particularly keen to meet Rosario and Kayford who are two children in grade 11 at secondary school.

PIZZ School was established as a Basic School. This caters for children from grades 1 to 9. However to complete their secondary education the children need to complete a further 3 years. To be eligible to progress, the children need to pass an exam at the end of grade 9. The students at PIZZ, despite their huge disadvantages, have been very successful in passing this exam. After such effort, I feel that these children deserve to continue with education, so I try to raise some funds to secure their secondary education. Last year a school in the Cotswolds organised a sponsored walk were a class of 8 and 9 year olds walked 10Km and returned to a bowl of rice and beans. Their efforts raised more than the £1,800 needed to secure the schooling of Rosario and Kayford.

I also met three students at nursing school, another secondary student who is able to complete his schooling thanks to my daughters 50 mile run and a girl desperate to return to school to finish her education.

PIZZ School looks after orphaned and otherwise vulnerable children. When I meet the children I hear some of their stories and start to understand what being vulnerable means. A child whose parents both died was taken in by an aunt who also died, she was then taken in by a friend of the aunt and abused by the husband, was chased out of the house and is currently being looked after by an elderly woman who struggles to raise enough to feed herself. This is just one of so many examples of a vulnerable child here in Monze.

At the beginning of the year I was offered some reading books from a school in Cheltenham. On Friday I was able to see that they had arrived safely and were very much appreciated by the children and staff at PIZZ School. Many books sent from the UK don't fit in with the syllabus or the culture, however these are ideal books to encourage the children to learn English and will be very helpful for the school. Hands Around the World is a small charity that establishes very close links with its overseas partners. This enables us to know what happens to the money and goods we send. To be able to report on individual children or donations made enables a much better connection to be made. The reaction of the head at the school which sent the books says it all. “Oh my word – that has made my whole weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”

I am delighted to be able to help – and I have the huge satisfaction and privilege of meeting the children and seeing their beaming smiles!

I visited Jennipher on Saturday. For some reason I was a little apprehensive about the journey. I have travelled to Pemba many times. I like to use local transport but in general I avoid the little buses, however when I visit Pemba there is little option. The buses are inevitably overloaded and driven by young men with little regard to safety. It is the most dangerous activity I take part in! However, I should be used to it by now! As it happened my driver was relatively careful and drove at a reasonable pace. The seat I perched upon was worse for wear –i.e. broken! The back wasn't able to provide support and the base fell apart if the seat was raised – it was meant to collapse and be moved aside to let passengers in and out. The collapsing bit it fulfilled!!

Anyway I arrived safely in Pemba. The children have grown a lot in two years and look healthy. Obadia is now a young man – no longer to be bounced on my knee! I met Maria – the daughter on Selina –for the first time – she is more than a year old now she is a chubby little girl. Jennipher and Maggie were also about together with a few friends.

I have noticed the children this year in Zambia. The weather here makes a huge difference and the fact that in the poorer compounds there are no fences around houses. The children have a huge playground were they can join other families and invent games. They spend their time laughing and joking and getting up to mischief. Life would be great if they weren't hungry!

Jennipher's “estate” is growing!! Soloman is a good builder. He makes his own bricks and has constructed a piggery, extended the house to provide a big lounge, built a kitchen and another small house. The sick woman and her two children are currently staying with Jennipher. She says she will get Soloman to build them a small house in the grounds so that they can made their permanent home with them.

The water authority, Swasco, has installed a meter for Jennipher's tap. This means she can no longer afford to provide water for her neighbours as she has in the past.

It was good to see the family again. Selina was at school doing some activities, but will visit Monze with Jennipher on Wednesday.

Buses were nowhere to be seen for the return journey, but Jennipher flagged down a car to take me back to Monze. I squeezed on the back seat with another three passengers!

In the afternoon as the sun is setting it is nice to sit outside under the veranda and enjoy the peace and quiet of this place. The other day I watched a snake eagle on top of a electricity pole the other side of the wall of the Curia. I hoped it would fly in my direction, but was disappointed. It flew low away for my house. I also caught a glimpse of a black stork – another beautiful bird that frequents this area.

Church took over much of yesterday. Before mass George persuaded me to join him in the shelter reserved for men – although some women were also selling Chibanto –non- alcoholic sweet beer. Fr. Clement celebrated mass.

The cook at the church called me over and told me that they had had a robbery at the village where she lives. The thieves stole solar panels which were powered the pump for the water supply – so they now have no water. Unfortunately thefts such as these are not uncommon.

After mass a nun was selling booklets. I wanted to see if there was anything providing a local insight. I have friends who are concerned about witchcraft here in Zambia and I was able to pick up a couple of books giving a Christian perspective on the issue. The standard of medical care in Zambia is poor and so many people die of what we would regard as completely preventable (or curable) causes. Many people still believe that in some way they have been cursed, or bewitched, because the cause seems so mysterious.

The power of suggestion is very powerful. Recently in the UK there was a programme where a doctor did an experiment where he gave people tablets containing nothing of any medical significance. The idea was to test the power of suggestion – the placebo effect. Even he was amazed at the results. People in debilitating pain became almost pain free and could move comfortably in a way they hadn't experienced for years. About 40% gained some benefits which even lasted when they knew the tablets had no effect in themselves.

It is not surprising then that “witchdoctors” are able to 'demonstrate' their healing powers. Unfortunately they also use this power to ill effect. There are traditional healers however that have gained knowledge of herbs and other plants which can help with all sorts of ailments. I often wish that the traditional healers and modern medics could work closer together to provide a better service.

There was a larger group at St. Veronica's in the afternoon. It was decided to visit some of those who hadn't attended recently to see if they had problems. So after the meeting we all went around to

the house of one of the members. In the UK I would find this quite intimidating and intrusive, but here the culture is very different! The lady in question was seated on the floor. She said that she had gone to a funeral at a village in the Northern Province where it was still raining. She contracted a severe form of malaria and was still trying to recover.

Whoever I talk to this year tells me that this year there will be severe hunger. What I see in Monze is the tip of the iceberg, in the rural areas the impact will be huge.

Chris

A Free Day

Thursday 16^th May

It is possible that I will get my free day today!

I feel that I should be running around finding something to do, yet, at least in theory, I could enjoy my stay this year as a holiday! I enjoy sitting under the veranda. Today there are a few more birds about. Bulbils are noisy and energetic birds, there are also canaries that stop on the trees as they fly by. I suspect that a couple of red bishops have also visited, but at this time of year they are rather indistinct. I spotted my first snake eagle yesterday near the house and have also seen a roller along the road.

Sitting back and relaxing in the cool of the day helps me try to make sense of what I see and hear.

Yesterday I went to PIZZ School were Mrs. Sianga, Killian and some of the teachers were distributing some clothes which recently arrived in a consignment sent by Hands Around the World from the UK. There was a large supply of sweatshirts, tee-shirts, football shirts and boots. The sweatshirts have arrived just at the right time as we enter into winter. School starts early and some of the children will have a long way to walk. Temperatures are already down to 10°C at night and will drop further - so these sweatshirts will be very useful. Most children managed to find something their size, though a few were disappointed. These clothes will become part of school uniform, but the children will also wear them at home or at church.

I was introduced to the children after the distribution. Most of the children know me, though some have joined from other schools in grade 8 and 9. Mrs. Sianga asked why some of the children didn't seem happy and at least one child said they were hungry!

It is painful to know that children are hungry. Most of us don't know what hunger is like. We might go for a few hours without a meal, but for most of these children hunger is a real and very unpleasant feature of life. This year it will get much worse. I met Nancy later in the day – perhaps it was 14.30. She also said she was hungry and asked for something. She said she hadn't eaten at school. She will have left home at 7 am or earlier and she still had best part of an hour's walk home. I cannot start giving food to children I meet on the street, but it breaks my heart when I leave them hungry.

I met a group of sponsored children from grades 7 - 9. In passed years I have spoken individually to the children and reported back to the sponsored. I no longer provide this link, so I used the chance to talk generally to the group – all of whom I have met in previous years.

PIZZ school provides a meal for all the students daily. In order to keep the costs as low as possible maize is bought early – usually in June or July – when it is cheaper. Last year 300 x 50Kg bags were used. Yesterday the first delivery of maize was received. Already prices are high – so it needs to be bought and stored without delay.

I called into the hospital on my way back home. Jennipher had managed to get Delia screened for cervical cancer - though the clinic had officially closed. The result was positive and she has been given some medicine to suppress the virus, before treating the cancer. It is a pity that they didn't do the screening two years ago when problems started.

Jennipher had a patient at her house who seems very poorly. She cannot walk and is suffering badly from diarrhoea and vomiting. Jennipher took her to the clinic in Pemba yesterday morning and is also looking after her two children.

Yesterday morning I bumped into Soloman Phiri. The Catholic Church has its own aid agency – The Catholic Fund for Overseas Aid (CAFOD). It operates all around the world by using the skills and expertise of local people – these are the CAFOD partners. Among other things, Soloman Phiri and his project team are Monze Diocese's CAFOD Partner. I met Soloman Phiri some years back when his daughter found out that I had stayed at a flat literally next door to his office and yet we had never met. Over the years we have talked quite a lot and I did a bit of work for the project team one year. He is now working at the Curia, though I think he would rather be back at Homecraft where he previously had his office.

I took a gentle walk into town and met a couple of marketeers I know from previous years. My “spice lady” who I only found out today is called Precious (though I have known her for more than 10 years!) kept me talking for ½ hour or so! I had only called in to buy some gonger and garlic!!

On the way back a guy said he wanted to walk with me. He told me that he was a student at the Agricultural college 3 or 4Km up the road past the Curia. He also said that he was a drunkard and had been drinking since this morning. I had no reason to doubt it!! He was quite amiable so we walked together for a while – then I decided to say goodbye and upped the pace! I have no problem chatting to people, but I don't want strangers calling for me at the Curia!!

Take Care,

Chris

Wasting Time

Tuesday 14^th May

It is not easy to slow down!! Today I woke and had nothing planned. I began to wonder how I would fill the day!! I told myself that I didn't have to do anything – I could just relax, enjoy time on the porch and perhaps go for a short walk in the bush in the afternoon.

So I settled down with Huckleberry Finn and enjoyed the truly cloudless sky. After a while the phone rang and it was Jennipher. She was heading into Monze to meet with Delia and Diven at the hospital – could I call Diven? When I called him, he had no money for the taxi fare to bring Delia to the hospital.

A large chunk of my day was about to be filled!!

I have talked to Jennipher about my concern for Delia and yesterday she visited and advised Delia to be tested for a variety of possible diseases. Jennipher says she has seen some of her clients show similar symptoms and thinks the tests might disclose what is wrong. Today she has arranged that Delia and Diven meet her so they can progress matters.

I rushed to the hospital in order to sort out the taxi!

Naturally I arrived well in advance of Diven and family!! However, as I entered the hospital I was greeted by Sichone. In 2004 he was the stores manager and one of my first tasks was to look at the stores systems and see if I could produce a computerised stock control system. Sichone was new to computers at the time, but he gradually came to understand what I was doing and, with Luke, we made good progress over the years placing the stock records on the system. For a number of years I spent at least 3 months in Zambia, working most days in the hospital. This gave me a good opportunity to get to know my Monze colleagues. A few years back Sichone was moved from the stores, but about a year ago senior staff in the Health Service realised he wasn't being fully utilised and insisted he returned. So he now has taken up his former position.

Sichone insisted that I used a comfortable seat he brought me to wait for Diven outside the clinics.

Eventually Diven appeared but not before other hospital staff members greeted me. Needless to say Jennipher had not appeared. After half an hour or so I rang her and she said she was on her way. Half an hour later she said she had been stuck at Chisakasi, but was just setting off again. Half an hour later she had left Chisakasi and would be with us in 20 minutes. 45 minutes later she arrived!! There had been an accident at Manungu – a lorry had overturned trying to miss hitting a man carrying charcoal on a bike! This had been the final delay!! (From Pemba, where Jennipher lives, to Monze usually takes me 30 minutes once I catch a bus!)

So we are now all set!! Jennipher rushes into the clinics, obviously knowing her way around! Soon a nurse comes from the cervical health clinic and says that they don't do screening on Tuesdays - only Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays! However, if Delia comes tomorrow she will see to her. The nurse stayed for a while prompted by Jennipher and advised Delia to stop breastfeeding Lwendo. She talked for awhile providing information and advice and it was agreed that the party would re-assemble tomorrow.

While waiting for Jennipher I spotted Teddy and went over to tell him the good news about his laptop.

Returning to Diven I was spotted by Robert! He greeted me in his usual way - “I'm troubled”. Ever since I have known Robert he has been “troubled” by one thing or another. How ever often I meet him there is another trouble he forgot to tell me yesterday. I am sure that like many he struggles, and eventually he might persuade me to help a little more with some of his troubles – but not today!! Many people come to me during the day and ask for money. I know they are probably in need, but if I gave money to people just because they ask, I would be inundated with beggars and so would every other “white” person who visits Monze. Although to be honest, other than the two Italian nuns at the churches, I have only noticed two other “white” faces since I arrived almost two weeks ago - and they were in cars!! Although effectively Robert is a beggar – he is not a stranger, I have known him over quite a few years – he therefore gets a very limited bit of support. I am sure we will meet again before my visit is over.

It had been a long morning – much of it chatting to Diven and playing with Lwendo. I thought that a trip to Tooters might be in order, so I rang Obert whose base is just around the corner from the hospital. I asked him to pick up Delia and family. I walked the short distance to Tooters and arrived just before the taxi!

So Diven, Delia, Jennipher and Gertrude – who is helping Delia – together with Paul and Lwendo joined me at Tooters where we had a meal and some soft drinks. We chatted some more and at last Paul started to interact with me and play a bit.

By now 10 hrs had become 15 hrs and the emptiness of the day was a distant memory!! It would be easy to say that I wasted the day, but in fact I believe that it was very valuable. Passing the time with friends is what I count as my real purpose in life. My brief meeting with Ian reminded me of the rapport and interaction we used to enjoy in the stores. Bringing together Diven's family and Jennipher is valuable because she is a useful guide for them. I also think that I have made a breakthrough with Paul who finished laughing with me rather than crying. Unless we are prepared to “waste time” with people we will never build the trust needed to develop an understanding of their lives and their challenges.

Maybe another free day will appear – though with so little time left I rather doubt it!! I know I have activities planned for tomorrow, Friday and Saturday and next week is my last week in Monze – I will leave early on the following Tuesday.

Take Care,

Chris

We need to smell the sheep

Monday 15^th May

Raymond visited me on Saturday morning. He has been a regular visitor since at least 2004. He has worked for many years with Charles on the PEASSA projects. He also tries to support some elderly and disabled people, but has no resources himself! We sat outside under the veranda and chatted for an hour or more over a coffee.

In the afternoon I headed for my little dam. I have to pass by Diven's house and shop on route and he insisted that I had lunch with him – although I had already eaten. After lunch he accompanied me to the lake.

I was surprised how low the water was. It looked more like the scene I expect in October or November – not May!! Areas that should be under water were clear and I could walk on paths that shouldn't be exposed at this time. The grass is almost gone – eaten already by the cattle. This does not bode well for later in the year. I am told many wells have already dried up and also some boreholes.

I saw a few egrets but no other birds at the lake. This was also blamed on the lack of rain.

While we sat by the lake a congregation from the local church came down. The minister waded into the lake and a number of parishioners came in turn to be baptised.

Sunday is meant to be a day of rest!! However here it starts for me with 3-4 Km walk to Our Lady of the Wayside for Mass. The service officially starts at 10 hrs, though in practice it is usually 15 – 20 minutes later (as it was yesterday). The singing is impressive with the typical African natural harmonies. Mass lasts about 2hours, so although it starts before our service in Cheltenham it finishes some time afterwards – I like to think that Our Lady of the Wayside envelopes St. Gregory's – a bit like a hug!

Of course at mass there were further greetings. George, whose family has undergone major troubles said everything was currently on track. Some parishioners who were not around last week came to say hallo. I checked whether there was a “Section” meeting this week and when it was confirmed I arranged to meet someone later who would show me the way.

I returned home and had a bite to eat before heading off again for a shorter walk – only 2-3 Km to go to the Small Christian Community “Section” meeting. For many years now I have been a member of St. Veronica's Small Christian Community. It is a group of parishioners who are based in one of the poorest areas of Monze. We meet on Sunday afternoons for some prayer and particularly to listen to next week's reading and meditate on it. If a member is sick we often visit them at their home and say some prayers with them. I was told that Queen, whose son Brian was the first person to direct me to a meeting, had died about a year back. Queen's was one of the few houses I knew and often I would meet with her in order to locate the site of the meeting, which is held at the house of one of the members. (We meet in the garden – or yard, the house is usually one or two rooms - too small in which to hold a meeting.)

This week some of the members were at a church meeting so the numbers were down. In fact there were just eight ladies and myself. None of the women spoke fluent English and my Chitonga is still virtually non-existent, but we managed after a fashion. After a while there was a lot of glancing through the bible and a bit of confusion. It seemed that the person with the programme, which included the reading, had not appeared. They asked if I knew the reading – but I was at as much at a loss as they were. I then had a thought and rang Dilys back in the UK. She must have had her missal by her because she immediately gave me the details I needed. It is a small world!!

We had a shortened meeting and I returned to the Curia, having both been officially welcomed to Monze and, soon after, escorted along the road, then waved on my way!

It is still rare that I walk anywhere without coming across old friends. Osman stopped his bike and said hallo. Osman used to work in the stores at Monze Hospital. During my early years at Monze I spent a lot of time working in the stores, developing a stock control system and got to know Osman quite well – to my shame I didn't recognise him, though the voice was familiar. Most of my friends are aware that I have a problem recognising faces – this is particularly true here where the men all shave their heads! The women often wear wigs which is another issue! There seems little I can do to solve the problem and so I will continue to fail to recognise people I know quite well. They are in good company since I failed to recognise Dilys the day after we met at a dance – however, despite ignoring her the next day, we have been happily married now for 47 years!!

The security guard came around after I arrived back home and said I must be lonely! I told him that I am happy to have some time alone and that I spend most of my days with friends. He then said that he had a visitor called Obert who wanted to see me and was that OK!

Sometimes walking along the street someone comes up to me and says “Hallo, I have a problem!” I don't like to ignore people so I usually listen and then say that I cannot help, because most people I see have problems! Occasionally I am willing to describe a person's problem in my blog, or speak to friends and very occasionally someone will help!

Many years ago a lad told me he had a problem. So I asked what this problem could be. He said that he walked with a limp because one of his legs had grown, but the other one – being artificial – hadn't!! He told me his name was Obert.

When I returned to England I mentioned this conversation with a friend and he offered to give money to buy a new leg. However when I returned to Zambia I couldn't find a boy called Obert. Other than his first name and knowing he had an artificial leg, I had no information. The following year a guy at church said “Hallo I am Obert”. Since then we have become good friends. Obert is now a taxi driver and told me yesterday that with help from his father, who is a builder, he is building his own house. He is now married and his wife is expecting a child next month. He is due to visit very shortly and take me to see his house and his parents.

This morning Bright visited my home. Bright is a security guard at Monze Mission Hospital who again I have known for many years. He has a son, Brian, who attended a special school for the deaf and managed to progress to obtain his grade 12 certificate. Bright told me that he has almost finished roofing a big house he has built and is in the process of building another small house for chickens. I have visited his place a number of times and his wife always cooks lovely food. I will try to get along again this year if time permits.

We are fast approaching the depths of winter here!! However, temperatures this week are expected to reach 30°C with a lot more sun than shade!!

I am a great fan of Pope Francis and one of his instructions to his priests is that they need to smell the sheep, by which I believe he means that they must live among the people and not apart from them. It would be very easy for me to travel around Monze in taxis, frequent hotels and restaurants and enjoy the privileges of the “white” man. However I much rather smell the sheep! I enjoy being close to the people. I am not so naïve that I don't realise that there will always be a big gap between me and my friends here in Zambia. Even here I have electricity and water – we have only had two short power cuts – each of about 15 mins. However, my house is open to my friends. They are always very welcome to join me for a coffee and perhaps a meal. I am happy for them to know about my life in the UK and if they are comfortable I am happy to visit them at home and perhaps join them for a drink or a meal. Of course if they play pool then it's game on!! I am very keen to understand their challenges and if I can help a little I will do my best to try. I have a lot of friends in Monze so there are limits to what I can do.

Many of my friends, like Obert, are driven to improve their lot and work very hard to achieve a better life. I am pleased to be able to provide an input here and there which will help in their quest. There are some like Robert who I met earlier today who always have problems and will always look for a bit extra. These too are struggling and deserve a little, but next year they will have moved no further forward!!

I met Mrs Chaambwa at the railway crossing. She was surprised that I didn't know that her husband Edward had died in October last year. I met Edward some years back through an English Guy who went to Monze Basic School when it was for “white” children only – it is now a government school for local children. Edward had the idea that if he could get in touch with some of these ex-pupils maybe they would be able and willing to help renovate the school. I think that I was contacted through my blog. I am not really sure what my role was meant to be, but I made friends with Edward and acted as a link between the ex-pupil and Edward. Personally I would have been happy for Edward to project manage the project. He was in the best position to understand the needs of the school and ensure that work was carried out. I was happy to support him in what he felt was necessary. Anyway I continued the friendship after the project and met his wife. Edward used to take me to some of the bars for a drink. I am sorry to here that another friend has died since I was last around. Unfortunately I suspect he will not be the last.

I have just returned from Visiting Obert's Mum. She set up a small pre-school a few years back for some of the local children. Very few can afford to pay anything so it is a constant struggle to raise money to pay the teachers. In the past she has kept chickens and used the profits for this purpose, but it is easy to use the profits and not replace all the chickens – or fail to have enough to feed them! She is hoping to start this project again. At her house there were a group of parents together with their children who have a range of disabilities. They were meeting to see how they can help each other. One of the girls who had no speech responded to me with a wide smile. If only we can find ways to communicate with such children – it is clear that there is a lot going on in their minds and it must be so frustrating not to be able to share it.

One of Mrs Mazoka's (Oberts's Mum) former pre-school children was Nancy. Nancy is a bright cheeky little girl who should hit the heights!! This morning I saw her outside St. Vincent's School – next door to the Curia. I wasn't sure that it was the same girl. She was looking sad and not acknowledging me. A teacher saw me looking and asked if I was being bothered by the children. I said that I wasn't being bothered, but I thought the girl looked like Nancy. She confirmed that it was Nancy and I told her that I had known Nancy over a number of years. In 2017 Nancy had just started school and she ran to me flinging her arms around me. Later I heard she got into trouble for this – I don't think people realised that we were friends! I thought this might have accounted for her reluctance yo acknowledge me this time.

When I arrived at Mrs. Mazoka's house Nancy was their, but a different Nancy to the one I met this morning!! Very like the one I used to know. She had regained her adorable character and beamed a smile from ear to ear! I was so pleased, however she doesn't look much bigger than two years ago and I worry that her life has gone down.

Obert's new house is quite impressive and he has a decent piece of land with it. There is still some work to do before Obert and his wife can move in – such as putting down a floor!!

Obert dropped me back and said he had three customers waiting for him so at least he has some business and will make a little money today.

Jennipher has just called around. She has been to see Delia, Diven's wife. She has been able to provide some advice and is returning tomorrow to take them to the hospital for some counselling and to arrange some tests. I hope that at least some progress is made in diagnosing her condition.

Chris

Time to slow down

Saturday 11^th May

I have not had formal work now for nearly 23 years!! Yet I am always keeping busy! We live in a world where we are given the message that we always have to occupied. A short time ago I spent 8 days on retreat – no phones, no internet, no television and almost complete silence! Yet as soon as I get back home I am keeping my self occupied. Perhaps coming to Zambia is sending me a message – to slow down.

My relationship with God is very important to me. I believe in a God who is a close friend, who enjoys my company and constantly tries to help me keep to the right path. He (or she!) finds it eassy in Zambia to thwart my plans and slow me down. I try to rush to Monze from the UK and I am stranded in Amsterdam. I try to rush to the Curia to get on the Internet and busy myself and I land at Our Lady of the Wayside with no internet connection! I finally arrive at the Curia and my Laptop stops working. I fix the laptop and can't get internet access! I really believe that I am being given a very powerful message!!

So what have I lost!! I had a lovely restful day in Amsterdam. I have caught up with a lot of friends, I have enjoyed some exercise, covering a few miles each day – in, out and around town - and I have have some time to read, enjoy the sunshine and think about the lives of the people here and how best I can provide a little support. It is clear that it is all gain and not loss.

I often wonder how much of our busy lives is spent being occupied rather than being engaged in the world in which we live.

The projector that I carried very carefully from Cheltenham is still working. Yesterday Diven and his family came around for lunch and a film show. They enjoyed watching the animals in the Frozen Planet and also the cartoons. Mr and Mrs Sianga also visited. I projected the videos onto the wall providing a screen about 6ft x 4 ft. I had also picked up some speakers to enhance the sound. Mrs Sianga said that her children would no longer need to go to Livingstone to see the animals!! Though I hope that the projector isn't seen as a substitute.

After Diven left we caught up on some of the challenges facing the school. It is very hard for people in the UK to understand the difficulties faced by families such as those attending PIZZ School and the impact of a poor harvest. The Siangas have a farm and managed to grow a little maize before the rains failed. In practice they rely on the farm to provide their livelihood and enable them to run the school – funds are always desperately short to cover the bills that arise – many that cannot be predicted. This year they are worried because by December they will run out of maize for themselves – usually there is a surplus that they can sell.

The teachers also struggle to survive on the little they receive and prices – particularly for food are rising rapidly. Some good teachers have left to find better paid jobs. However the main impact is on the children. These children live in households that are surviving on the margins. The fact that they go to school at all is because the school is a social community as well as an educational one. The guardians are making sacrifices to allow their children to go to school rather than make money selling in the streets. However, at this time there is no food at home so most children are having to make money for their guardians. Mrs Sianga says she expects 75% of children to be absent from school because of the crop failure this year. This could have a permanent impact on the lives of these children. If they miss a significant amount of schooling they will have difficulty passing exams and getting decent jobs etc.

Unfortunately there are no easy solutions when famine occurs, but perhaps with more understanding of the impact we can mitigate some of the worst long term effects.

I helped Mr & Mrs Sianga to their car with a variety of goods which had accounted for much of my 54Kg of luggage! As well as the projector and videos, there were three bags of shoes, some hand knitted woolly jumpers and a mixture of art materials and games. I also gave them a solar security light to see if it might help in classrooms where the solar lighting is no longer working properly.

I am keen to hear more about the challenges with the school and to meet some of the staff and children. Although I am not here in an official role I have come to know so many at the school over the past 15 years or so and will continue to develop the relationships!!

Yesterday was the funeral of my friend Maria. I woke myself up at 5.30 in order to attend mass at 6.30. I went to the cathedral where mass is said in English. In the months leading up to her death Maria tried to get things in order. She asked me to scan some photos which covered much of her life. I looked through them yesterday morning. Many are from a time before we met, but there are also a lot taken over the past twenty years or so since we met. It was good to remember her and recall the many happy times during that period. May she rest in peace in the presence of our God.

I am surprised how few birds I have noticed since I arrived. The pied crows are around, I have seen one or two swallows and swifts (not the European ones that have returned back home), there are a couple of pied wagtails around the Curia – I have also mentioned the house sparrows. I saw a bulbil yesterday and a couple of blue waxbills at Our Lady of the Wayside and a pretty dove. Oh and a small flock of egrets flew over! Ok I have noticed a few birds since I arrived after all! I intend visiting the small lake just beyond PIZZ School this afternoon – a pleasant stroll of a couple of miles I suppose. (each way!)

Take care and slow down!

Chris

Catching up with Friends

Thursday 9^th May

It feels like only yesterday that I arrived and yet on another level I feel I have been in Zambia for weeks.

On Monday morning I strolled into town – I wanted to make contact with a few friends. I decided to pop into the hospital and say hallo to Sr. Juunza - the Hospital Administrator - who I have known for a number of years in her current role and other roles. She told me that Teddy was around so I headed to his office. Teddy is the Acting Information Manager who has in this position since Bentoe - a good friend to both of us - died tragically in a car crash in 2006. Teddy tells me that he expects to continue to be acting until he retires in a couple of years.

Teddy wasn't at his office but arranged to meet at the Tuck Shop. As I approached Sebia ran towards me and gave me a big hug. We first met many years ago on the high street and she helped me find a bus to go to Pemba to visit Jennipher. It was good to see her again and to receive such a warm welcome.

I chatted for a while with Teddy.

As I left the Hospital I rang Mrs. Sianga to see if she was around. She was and we agreed to meet. I credit Mrs. Sianga for giving me the inspiration to return to Monze again and again. I have seen her school grow from a single class to an impressive operation with over 400 (or possibly 500) students with a 100 former students gaining a secondary education, two students at university and more in nursing training. Although this year I am not formally representing Hands Around the World, this will not diminish my support for the school and I will still do everything I can to ensure that it continues to thrive. Over the 16 years that we have known each other we have come to understand each other quite well. I have met her family, been to her farm and visited the area where she grew up. She has met Dilys (my wife) and Amy my granddaughter. It was good to say hallo and chat with her and her husband. I also met Killian who has been providing a lot of support over the past few years.

I returned to Our Lady of the Wayside for lunch and afterwards moved to the Curia.

Somehow between morning and afternoon the adaptor for my laptop ceased to work! Hence one reason for no recent posts.

Eventually I found out how to get the cooker to work so I could make a cup of tea – well I could if I had some tea bags! At least I was confident that tea would soon arrive and I felt settled!

Time to go into town and buy a few provisions. It takes me a while to remember how things work in Monze. I headed to the market where I met the lady who sells me spices. She greeted me warmly with another hug and said that she had been thinking about me! The market has many temptations for me – chinese cabbage, spring onions, aubergines, sweet peppers, impwa ( a cross between a pepper and tomato!) and many other interesting fruits and vegetables. I had promised Gertrude – the cook at Our Lady of the Wayside that I would show her how I cook Lusala (a root vegetable) on Tuesday – however my friend from the parish, who usually sells it in the market, told me that it wouldn't be available till the end of the month. I was accumulating plastic bags and realised that I normally go around with a backpack to help carry provisions. I was a bit weary by the time I made it back to the Curia. Tomorrow I would remember.

I won't bore you with the details of the past couple of days, but here are the highlights!

I have been walking around meeting old friends.

At the bank I met Luke – a past colleague of Teddy's and a friend I got to know well in 2004 when we were developing a stock control system for the hospital. He now lives in Chikuni 20 or 30 Km from Monze. At the same time as meeting Luke, Captain came up to me to say hallo. Captain was in charge of making concrete blocks for the hospital ICU in 2003 – he is still in Monze and says he is busy.

I bumped into Brian – a Rasta friend who I have known for many years. I had a woollen hat at home which I picked up when we visited Jamaica in 1996! I have never worn it and brought it out to Monze because I thought Brian would appreciate it. Next time I saw him he was proudly wearing it! Along the road was a man whose name I can never remember. He has a wheelchair and some scales – as usual I weighed myself and gave a donation! He has a daughter at PIZZ School – he told me that his wheelchair was giving problems and it was difficult getting around on the rough tracks in Monze. I am amazed that even with the best wheelchair it is possible to get around!

At the Curia I met Fr. Milimo, Fr. Raphael and Fr Kenan in swift succession – all priests I know quite well. Fr. Raphael used to be at Our Lady of the Wayside Parish – a lovely, quiet man. He told me he was now in a parish bordering Zimbabwe – I asked him what he had done to deserve being banished there! He laughed! Fr. Kenan is still at Chilimantando, not far form Choma – about 100Km from Monze. He asked me to visit him there, though I doubt if I will have time this year. I first met Fr. Kenan in London and he stayed with me one weekend in Cheltenham. He returned the favour and I spend a wonderful weekend in the bush at his mother's home. No water, electricity but a solar panel to charge mobile phones!! His mother died while I was here last time, but I had a chance to visit her in hospital and remind her of that visit.

Another friend who suddenly appeared at Our Lady of the Wayside was John. I haven't seen John for a number of years so it was a a delight to meet again. He is a bit of a rogue who I met years ago. He wanted to dig himself a well and told me all he needed was a pick and shovel. A friend from the UK funded these items so John got to work. Eventually the well was dug – though by the time we had finished, in addition to the pick and shovel we had borrowed a windlass and bucket – and replaced fraying ropes at least once, provided food for a friend who raised and lowered the bucket with either soil or John inside!, bought bricks and mortar to line the well to stop it collapsing and provided a rope pump which was never used!! John told me he had now left his wife and children because she was seeing another man!!

As I walk along the road to the Curia people greet me – some marketeers know me because they are parishioners at Our Lady of the Wayside, some priests stop their cars and remind me of games of pool or other occasions where we previously met– an example was Fr. Victor who was staying at the cathedral one year that I visited, a keen Liverpool supporter, I gave him some pictures I had taken outside Anfield Stadium.

Lashford bumped into me down the road – he was responsible for building the ICU and the first PIZZ school building funded through Hands Around the World – he tragically lost a very young child some years back. Ireen, my tailor, called to me from her sewing machine and gave me a huge hug as usual. She showed me documents relating to her child's nursing training at a local private school. I was surprised by the costs - £500 - £600 per term. I will by some material for a couple of shirts and pay her a decent price!

Yesterday I tried to reach Charles but failed. Since I was passing his house after cooking my Lusala (I found a stall along the street leading to the Curia selling Lusala) I called around and we caught up with politics etc. for a couple of hours. I enjoy our chats. I have known Charles for many years. He is an interesting guy, a very good listener and interested to get another perspective on the world. Unfortunately most of his projects have hit with disasters of one sort or another!

My laptop is now back in action – fortunately it just had a damaged power cable, which was diagnosed by a guy down the road recommended by Teddy.

The internet is another issue. I have had some access but it is very hit or miss – and more miss than hit at the moment!! I might need to invest in another means of access.

Best wishes,

Chris

MY BACK GARDEN AT THE CURIA

Now I have really arrived

Sunday 5^th May

I think that today was when I really arrived in Monze!

I started dropping off to sleep during the football – so I gave up at half time, had a shower and went to bed. I slept deeply until awoken by a call from Diven at 7hrs. I turned the phone off and went back to sleep. Breakfast was laid out and I helped myself.

After breakfast I went for stroll in the church grounds. It suddenly became very familiar and comfortable. Large Swallowtail butterflies flew around, as did the house sparrows, which are plentiful here. I think that our shortage in the UK is caused by the sparrows flying to Africa for a holiday and deciding they liked the place so much they stayed. The sky was cloudless blue and I again experienced the power of the African sun.(Just glancing at my arms now I see that already they have turned a few shades darker!) Some trees are in flower and I noticed some new banana plants in what is now the presbytery garden.

There is only one priest now serving Our Lady of the Wayside and today Fr. Clement was saying mass at a couple of “Out Stations” so instead of mass there was a Eucharistic Service. Although feeling a little guilty at not attending a mass on a Sunday I felt that I should join the community here for their service. The Deacon who presided over the service stays with Fr. Clement here at the presbytery.

Before, during and after mass parishioners greeted me. Everyone I meet here in Zambia tells me the same thing – people are struggling, they are hungry. It was good to see again some very well known faces.

Diven's early morning call - which I returned at a more decent hour – was to invite me to his place for lunch. So after my service I made my way to his home. I asked a parishioner the best way, but unfortunately – as well as other things - mentioned the crossroads. There is a place called “The Crossroads” so she took me by an interesting route through the compounds to “The Crossroads” - unfortunately this didn't help me reach the crossroads I needed to find! Those who know me are aware that my sense of direction is not the best. So not only did I not know where I was but I had no idea which way to go!! I headed off and found someone who seemed to know where I wanted to be – to be honest the person I asked passed me on to someone who spoke English who directed me back in the direction from where I had come.. I wish I could learn Chitonga and be able to converse with those around me. (Although to be honest here in Monze I would also need to learn, Nyanga, Bemba and Losi.) I can easily get by with English, but at least half the people I meet cannot speak English and there is a barrier between us. Anyway I found my bearings eventually and found Diven.

Since I last visited, Diven has a new baby – in fact now a small toddler called Ireen or her Chitonga name Lwendo – meaning more problems!! Paul is a big lad now but still very unsure of me. I tried to approach him and again he started crying. Lwendo on the other hand was happy to play games – we copied each other clapping and shaking our heads – I think we have hit it off. I hope Paul will come around eventually and realise I am not really very frightening.

Delia is not very well and is in a lot of pain walking. Diven has taken her to hospital both here and in Lusaka. He is now employing some help to clean and cook. Diven joined me in his house for a meal that had been prepared for me. We then both headed for Our Lady of the Wayside church and I passed on a few items that I had brought for him including a few photos.

Jennipher was due to meet me at 15hrs, but it was about 16hrs when she rang. I told her where I was but she misunderstood. It is easy to forget that Jennipher's first language is not English – it is probably her fifth or sixth!! and our accents are very different. Eventually we met. She had been both to the Curia and Cathedral before finding me here!

Her tale was similar to others and she admitted that sometimes she pretends she is out because she has nothing to offer the hungry people who knock at her door. I shall have to go to Pemba soon and hear first hand the challenges people are now facing.

After supper Fr.Clement took me, the Deacon and his brother to St. Kisito's where we were challenged by the local people to a pool competition. I think that the final score was Manugu 6 St. Kisito 4. We arrived back home just before midnight!

Best wishes,

 Chris