A Day in Lusaka

Tuesday 9th November

I am now settled in Monze in very familiar surroundings.

Yesterday I had intended getting a bus from Lusaka, where Justine had agreed to take me. However, Justine's brother-in-law, Monti, was travelling to Choma and subsequently to Livingstone, therefore travelling through Monze. He offered to take me from Lusaka if I could wait in the city until 12 hrs. Being no more than a couple hours after I could leave anyway – and knowing that the journey would be quicker by car, I readily agreed. At 12 hrs Monti was held up waiting for money from the bank. We met at 14hrs but he was still at the bank. We put my bags into his vehicle and Justine dropped me at Downtown where I agreed to wait. At 15 hrs Monti rang to say he was in a meeting but would see me soon. At 16 hrs he arrived, having spent a long time in the Lusaka traffic jams. We set off to pick up his colleague who was staying close by. Earlier this year there was terrible flooding in Lusaka – so a major drainage system is being installed. As a result the former route to the colleagues house was completely cut off by a long and very large ditch and some big pipes. Having spent ¾ hour - along with a hundred other vehicles – finding no way through, we joined the traffic jam back into town – the only possible route left. It was therefore some time after 18hrs that we finally headed out of Lusaka and headed for Monze.

Our time in Lusaka wasn't entirely wasted. Justine bought a wheel bearing for his car, picked up forms for registering Kaliyangile and found out more about the process involved. I bought a USB modem to go with this laptop, which will allow me to post this blog from my flat here in Monze. While waiting at the Downtown shopping centre I happened to meet Fr. Maambo, who now has a parish outside of Monze and separately came across Sr. Gertrude, now at a convent in Mazabuka.

We travelled well, though we met several broken down trucks en-route. Travelling on Zambian roads at night is especially treacherous. There are many people walking at the side of the road and people riding bikes without any lights – and this along totally unlit roads. Is was a broken down truck that caused my friend Bentoe to lose his life in 2006, along with Rose - both of them were managers at Monze Mission Hospital. Their vehicle didn't have time to stop and hit the truck while still travelling at speed.

At about 21 hrs I arrived at my flat! The flat is part of a complex of buildings owned by the Catholic Diocese of Monze used for a youth training project and also housing offices for the Diocesan Projects Management Team. I will be doing a little work for the team as one of my little sidelines!

It was good to walk into familiar and comforting surroundings. The flat has all I need – a bedroom, lounge, kitchen and bathroom, with electricity and even a warm shower!

I went straight over to Tooters where I met Diven and had a meal and a drink. Mr. Longu – a driver from the hospital, currently working nights, greeted me and welcomed me back to Monze. I attacked the Internet when I got back to the flat. It was well after midnight when I turned in.

Last night there was a decent amount of rain. It was overcast first thing this morning – though the sun soon burnt it's way through. I popped down the corridor outside my flat to the offices and said a quick hallo to Sr. Barbara, the Admin Manager, and Soloman Phiri, the Projects Manager and CAFOD partner. I also arranged to meet later with the Accountant to discuss the database I was developing. (I have to admit that I was disappointed that he hadn't seen the CD I sent from the UK with the new database – though I knew it had arrived.)

Jennipher came around some time after 10hrs and we caught up on a few things. I had brought over a solar powered (and wind-up) radio donated by a friend. Jennipher had asked for radios for her groups. She explained that the radios would bring a variety of benefits. Firstly they allowed people to keep in touch with world events, she also explained that clients need to take medicines at regular times and that many have no wristwatch – so the radio would help them to know the time. Some of her clients apparently walk quite a long way at night to check the time with a friend. (I showed her that the radio provided also had a clock which went on when the radio was turned off.), thirdly there are educational programmes available on the radio – in particular a local radio station (Radio Chikuni) provides a series of primary school lessons. Children who do not attend school will gather around the radio to learn. There are no doubt other valuable ways the radios will be used - I only wished I could have brought more. If you would like to help to Jennipher's AIDS support groups by providing solar radios or provide other support please let me know.

I had banana sandwiches with Jennipher for lunch. After lunch I was on my way down the corridor to meet with the Accountant when I noticed another office where a familiar face greeted me. Vincent was very keen to work with me on the database and was aware of my CD etc. Not for the first time I had failed to recognise a face – the Accountant is not involved in what I am doing and was therefore understandably vague! I sorted out a new appointment and apologised to the Accountant for my mistake!

Having a free afternoon I headed for the hospital. As usual I was greeted by many even before reaching the gates. My memory for names is getting very bad – I keep going blank, even with people I know well. Some of those I did remember include Motty, Judy, Dr. Mvula, Robert, Ian and Fr. Rogers. I received very warm greetings from all and hugs from many – including some of the men!

Eventually I found Teddy and spent some time catching up. I have known Teddy since 2004 and we have worked closely since the death of Bentoe, who was also a very close friend of Teddy.

I attended mass at the Hospital Chapel before heading back. At the exit to the hospital Ireen spotted me and threw her arms around me. Ireen is my tailor – some of you might have admired some of the lovely shirts she has made me over the years. She walked back towards my flat with me and asked what I had brought her. This is a common greeting from friends here. I usually tell them I bring greetings from the UK and they accept it with a smile! Ireen said that I could buy her a chicken as “relish”! (relish is any food eaten with nshima) I don't usually cave in, but Ireen is a good friend and gives me the warmest greeting of anyone, so she chose a chicken from the seller who operates just outside the gates of the diocesan compound.

The market starts outside the gates so it isn't difficult for me to pick up some provisions. So I stocked up for my evening meal and grabbed a few more vegetables. I had a number of admiring comments from people surprised that I eat mussela – a local root vegetable.

On my return to my flat I noticed more than usual flies, these seemed familiar to me. Of course – flying ants! - or inswa. These fly in huge numbers at the start of the rains. I will expect to be treated to a bowlful of these creatures soon – fried and salted of course! Just don't think too much as you eat them!!

Diven joined me again this evening and shared my quick meal of scrambled eggs with fried rice, onion and tomato. Reymond called around but didn't come in as I already had a guest. He will call again tomorrow.

I have three appointments made for tomorrow, so I will be busy tomorrow and they might confirm that I will be exceptionally busy over the next few weeks.

Bye for now

Chris

A Wonderful Day

Sunday 7th November

Today has been a very good day. I am now really in Zambia!

On Thursday Justine took the beef – so I enjoyed the chicken. The menu since has, as expected, been the same – except that the beef has been taken off the menu!

I didn't have the best sleep on Thursday night, but on the Friday I was a bit less tired. In reality it takes a little while to fully adapt to all the changes – how people whizz around the world hitting the ground running, wherever they land I am not sure. Though no doubt first class travel and a good rest on the flight must help.

I spent most of the day on Friday at the Centre re-acquainting myself with the accounts database that needed to be restored, talking to Justine about progress during the past six months and the plans for the future. I also inspected some of the damage caused by a fire a month or so back. A neighbouring farmer was burning the stubble on his farm on a windy day and the fire jumped the windbreak into Kaliyangile. It went through the gardens burning the crops and burnt a structure next to the 'flat' I occupied last year. The wooden poles are standing but have been too badly burnt to be re-used. The building contained feed for the cattle, which was also destroyed. The following day Davidson went to have a bath only to remember that his bathroom was another casualty of the fire.

In the evening, after my meal, I avoided the bar and returned to my room. I had borrowed the Centre USB modem (or dongle), so, since this time I have a power socket in my room, I was able to post my previous blogs and check my e-mails without having to move.

I awoke as the sun burnt it's way through the curtains just after 6 hrs. A breakfast of 3 fried eggs, salad, chips and bread is really enough to keep me going all day! I went to the Centre in the morning.

I have decided to make my way to Monze on Monday, so we needed to go through a few things over the weekend. In general I like to keep weekends free – particularly Sundays - but I don't want to delay getting things moving in Monze. Once I have started all the plates spinning, I will have no difficulty keeping busy ensuring none smash! But, if you are aware of the analogy, it often takes a while before the plates all get going – and I have a lot of plates to spin!!

I had seen a notice announcing a Brai (i.e. barbecue) at Fringilla run by the Holy Cross Catholic Church here in Chisamba. Justine had been asked by Fr. Dominic if he would be supporting the event. He was inclined to go but hadn't enough fuel for the journey. I said that I would be happy to attend and could contribute towards the petrol. So a little before 13 hrs we set off for Fringilla - for the first time since I arrived in Chisamba I saw some pale faces as we arrived at Fringilla Guest House.

The first time I came to Chisamba without a 'chauffeur', Mrs. Sianga and myself overshot the Chisamba cross-roads and when we asked to be shown to the guest house were taken to Fringilla. We were a little surprised and thought our luck was in! Fringilla is a very pleasant lodge with 4 star amenities (but with prices to match - though perhaps not UK prices). Needless to say Chisamba Guest House is a little more basic but it is 25 km closer to the Centre – and also closer to the budget!

Once again Fringilla Guest House was not our intended destination – as we realised when handed the menus for the Brai, with the accompanying prices. Eventually we found Fringilla camp site were the entertainment was getting underway – and yes, other than myself, everyone was a person of deep colour!

The MC announced that since it was a Catholic event, as well as the soft drinks, Mosi, Castle, wine and even whisky would be available!

For the first couple of hours the MC / DJ had the children entertaining us with a dancing competition. I remember how scandalised some people were by Elvis Presley's hip movements in the 60's, well some of the three year old children performing on Saturday could have taught him a thing or two. Those who have experienced the dancing in Africa will know what I mean!

We then had a group called Fanwell who classified themselves as Gospel singers. They were OK but I must confess to finding it difficult to understand how waving my hands, or shouting Alleluia, proved that God was the most important thing in my life (even though it is.).

After more dancing another group hit the stage. In fact they jumped on to the lorry trailer that formed the stage and did there best to get it moving out of the field. At one point some speakers on the 'stage' were moved to the floor because that's were they were heading as Mazeteti dancing and jumped with gusto. Soon members of the audience joined them on stage which didn't phase them in the least – in fact they were warmly welcomed. A couple of the guys jumped off the stage and soon were surrounded by children wanting to get in on the act. So the performer arranged the children in a circle and led them in an array of different dances. He obviously enjoyed the experience as much as the children who followed his moves circling with tremendous enthusiasm, joy and skill.

It was clear to me that God and Mazeteti were friends by the way they related to all around them – somehow they didn't have to wave there hands or sing alleluia to prove it.

At about 18.30, when it is dark here – despite being the equivalent of the height of summer – we headed back to the car. We called at the petrol station for a bit more fuel and then returned to the campsite to pick up the young lad we forget when we left earlier!

I didn't need an evening meal, but I had a refreshing 'bath' and popped in to the bar to pick up some water. While there a guy switched from the state controlled channel, which shows what Rupiah Banda, the President, has been doing during the day to Strictly Come Dancing! I quickly left, having explained that I had travelled 5,000 miles to get away from Strictly Come Dancing! I also did a little work sorting out a few issues with the accounts system before picking up on John Grisham and turning in before 23hrs.

So to today! I slept well and again awoke to the bright African sun. Mass was at 8hrs so there was no time for breakfast. At the beginning of mass Fr. Dominic spotted me – he must have keen eyesight to pick me out of all the other parishioners! So I was introduced once again to the people of the Holy Cross church. I was grateful that yesterday I wasn't selected to speak to the crowd from the mike! It reminds me of similar issues we had when my wife and I visited Burma a few years back – it is sometimes very difficult to fade into the background.

I again enjoyed the singing and dancing that is so much a part of Christian celebration (as well as life in general) here in Zambia. Fr. Dominic explained for his 'friend from Kaliyangile' that the choir were going to sing a song which said “we believe in heaven”, which was the theme of the gospel. When I think sometimes what we as Christians profess to believe it is staggering! Our belief in a life after death is one of these mind blowing concepts. Still some scientists apparently believe that the universe came into being out of nothing, without any force present to facilitate the change – personally I am more inclined to believe in Heaven! I was interested that Fr. Dominic talked about metamorphosis in relation to the idea of heaven (I am not sure whether it is the same word in Nyanja, he spoke in at least two languages during the sermon). He talked of a caterpillar turning into a butterfly – one apparently dying in order for the other to live a more wonderful existence.


In the Gospel Jesus tries to explain that after death we will be different beings – as the angels. I think so often we make the mistake of thinking of God as a human being and life after death as a continuation of life here on earth. We can be sure that the difference between the caterpillar and the butterfly is nothing compared with what we can expect and that nothing can prepare us to understand the mind of God.

At the end of mass I thought I was in the clear, but, when the notices began, the man from Kaliyangile was asked to stand up to receive the applause of the assembled congregation – which he did as graciously as he could!

Outside the church I was greeted by a number of the parishioners including Fr. Dominic. The children came to shake my hand and give me high fives. As I left the church I felt like the Pied Piper, as a group of children trailed behind me. They accompanied me back to the guest house before waving a cheery goodbye before going on their way.

I intended to have a rest so I lay on the bed and read a little. I then decided that I really needed a walk. I was getting a little hungry, having still not eaten since supper, so, as I passed along the road, I picked up a few bits for lunch.

I have been disappointed that Chisamba seems to provide little scope for walks in the bush. I had seen a track the other day but on reflection thought that I had tested it on another occasion and found it just led to a local house. I headed towards the track but before the railway line came across another. As tracks go here, it was quite substantial. I headed along and was pleased to see a few houses to my right and very little fencing - suggesting that I was unlikely to be on private land. I passed a large tree full of birdsong and headed for another which was probably ¾ kilometre from the main road. The track continued but I settled under the tree. The other waitress at the guest house (not Citride) was excited when she saw my John Grisham novel – apparently she loves to read them. So I need to finish it before I leave tomorrow morning. I decided that under a tree away from anyone was the place to do some serious reading! Here in Zambia I am glad of a bit of shade when I can find it – in the UK the sun is so scarce, and rarely too hot, that I don't like to waste the opportunity to greet it wholeheartedly.

So I began with my feast. Two boiled eggs, four bananas, a packet of freshly roasted and salted peanuts and the crowning glory - my first mango of the year! Everything here seems to taste a bit better than in England. The eggs are different sizes and colours – one of those I bought was pleasantly spotted, each comes with a small packet of salt wrapped in plastic – reminding me of Smiths Crisps in the 50s! The bananas have probably been picked in the past few days and are full of flavour, the peanuts are again grown locally and come in light plastic bags – thinner than cling film and sealed at each end. Then there are the mangos!!!! Anyone who knows me well or has followed my blog before knows how I feel about fresh mangos. I had a text from Fr. Kenan in Monze a couple of days ago asking me to ring as soon as I touched down because he has mangoes ready for me! It is early in the season and mangos seem only to be available in Lusaka at this time. The seller told me that she paid 500 kwacha for the big ones in Lusaka and was selling them for 1,000 kwacha here! (about 13p). I did some friendly haggling over the price – since the child next to her had offered the same mango at 500 kwacha, but was more than happy to pay 1,000 kwacha for my first mango.

I am fortunate that the laptop runs off a battery – unfortunately all the flies are now attracted to the screen – since the power has just gone off and my screen is the only source of light in the room.

Sorry where was I? Oh yes waxing lyrical over my mango. Yes it was a good introduction to 2010 mango eating – it wasn't the juiciest fruit I have eaten, but still beyond comparison with what claim to be mangoes in the UK.

A walk in the bush, a mango feast and a few chapters under the shade of a beautiful tree, filled with glorious birdsong – there definitely is a heaven, and I suspect it might be here in Zambia. I have now arrived!

Each visit to Zambia seems to highlight a different part of nature. I am struck this year by the vast assortment of jumping creatures. No kangaroos, but grasshoppers that start at the size of those found in the UK and extend to some perhaps 10 cm (4 inches) long. They are of various colours. Most look drab on the ground but some look like butterflies when they jump and fly over distances of 30 metres or more.

The weather here is getting warmer – sitting under my tree, I sometimes thought that I was no longer in the shade – only to realise that the heat came purely from the air. When I arrived back I decided to throw some cold water over me – only to find that the tap was only providing hot water today!

Today I was re-acquainted with the mini-tornados that occur regularly here. They rarely come to anything and usually are much less than a metre in diameter and no more than a couple high. We did have some wind this evening at the guest house – on one occasion I suspect it was a slightly larger tornado, these pick up the local rubbish and spin it 20 or 30 metres into the sky. These, though more powerful, seem also to pass without any substantial damage being done.

This afternoon I had another session with Justine for a couple of hours before returning to write this blog. My regular readers know I can go on a bit – for any newcomers I hope you will bear with me!

Chris.

A Warm Welcome

Thursday 4th November

It is always rather unreal when I find myself once again in Africa. The swifts and swallows have beaten me down here, crickets, grasshoppers or locusts jump or fly out of my way as I wander along the paths. Yesterday I watched as numerous Red Kites flew above the M40 – today other varieties of birds of prey fill the skies.

The welcome in Zambia is always warm. I am surprised after landing when airport staff greet me as they pass by – still I have hardly slept during the night and anyway breakfast was at 3.30 GMT so I am even more dopey than usual .

We land at 6.30 local time as scheduled. The sun has recently risen and the temperature is a pleasant 22ºC in the shade.

I had told Justine not to bother about getting to the airport for when I land, so I took out some money and sorted out my mobile phone. I am pleased to find out that I can use the SIM cards from last time – therefore not having to give my friends a new number. I wonder how long it will be before I am tracked down! From my experience, I am sure that it won't be long.

Justine arrived at about 7.45 not long after I settled down for a cup of tea in the airport 'lounge and cocktail bar'.

He brought me straight to Kaliyangile to say hallo and then I returned to Chisamba Guest House for a rest.

I felt a little more human after a couple of hours and a cold water bath. A quick wander through town to settle in a little and I walked to Kaliyangile to find out the state of play with the project and plan my involvement over the next few days and weeks.

On returning to the guest house this afternoon, I decided I shouldn't put off my first Mosi any longer. I settled down to read my John Grisham novel and was soon joined by one of the local guys. We talked about the project, Zambia, politics, bereavement and a range of other subjects in the course of an hour or two. It is always interesting to hear the views of the local people who usually have interesting insights in a variety of fields. Staying at the Guest House makes me aware how important it is that the Kaliyangile project is seen as a community project and not one that is seen as run by others. The people I meet are very supportive and I think people will become more involved as the Centre develops.

It is now dark! There is very little twilight here, day becomes night very quickly. This is accentuated by the relatively low level of lighting in the streets after dark.

Supper will be nshima chicken or nshima beef tonight ( and every other night!) - I have ordered one of each and will let Justine choose!

As you might have noticed my last blog didn't get posted at Heathrow because they didn't provide access for my flash drive. I hope to post this one tomorrow.

Chris

A New Adventure Begins

Wednesday 3rd November

I have just passed through security at Heathrow. I couldn't understand how I had set off the alarm! So I had to undergo a body search. You would think by now that I would know what I am doing – but security is always intimidating and having taken my laptop out of it's bag, taken off my belt and coat, and emptied my pockets of coins etc. I thought I had done enough. Having removed my sandals and put my essential flight documents in another tray, I realised I still had my mobile in another pocket – so after as few more checks I was allowed to gather my bits and put myself back together again!

We had an uneventful trip from Cheltenham and stopped for a few minutes at a service station to kill a little time. We bumped into Lucy – a friend from church - having a coffee and greeted her before continuing to Heathrow.

In the UK we all know about post office queues! The bag drop here at Heathrow is very efficient – USUALLY! There was only one couple in front of us but for some reason they were stuck. After a few minutes we changed queues for the one where 4 people had already passed since we arrived. Unfortunately this was a bad move, because the couple in front again got stuck. I moved back to my original spot where there was no longer a queue, but the couple returned! After 15 minutes I was dealt with and I spent 30 seconds dropping off my bags! I think they knew that, without a delay, Dilys would have saved £3 in parking charges and the authorities at Heathrow were determined to get their money! I said goodbye to Dilys and she rushed to take the car off to my daughter Helen, in Hampstead, where Dilys is doing a little child-minding tomorrow.

For this trip I started packing early – this allowed me to nip down to London on Monday to play with the grandchildren. However, having done most of the packing by the weekend I spent yesterday a bit confused as to what I should be doing and today I couldn't think whether I had packed everything – or even what I should have packed. In the end I decided that since I had two bags weighing 20 kg each I probably had enough!

Yesterday evening I was on the Internet at 6.30 pm waiting to check in. I had considered waiting till my son Andy and his two children Charlie and George arrived, but decided to go ahead. When I thought about it, having a 4 year old and a 7 year old trying to decide where I sat in the plane and how much luggage I should take, might not have been the best idea! So I enjoyed the game myself, checked in a couple of bags and moved myself to a seat towards the back, that isn't over the wing so that I can get a good view during my night flight .

So the adventure is about to begin. I spoke to Justine today and he will meet me at the airport. He has booked me a room at Chisamba Guest House so I will have a chance to meet up with some old friends such as Citride, the waitress who earlier in the year had to wade through deep water to get to work, and no doubt Sondash will be around to introduce meet to the visitors – by now of course I am regarded as a regular!

Best sent me a message via facebook yesterday to ask if I would call around to his college in Lusaka tomorrow when I arrive. I haven't heard from Jennipher recently, but she was planning to come to Lusaka to meet me. I hope Justine hasn't any work to do tomorrow!

I will finish my pint of Polish beer before trying to post this blog here in the departure lounge.

I am sure that as usual it will be an interesting visit – your prayers are much needed and always welcome.

Best wishes

Chris

Packing Already

Saturday 30th October

Things are moving forward. The last week or two have been occupied with a few last minute purchases and other preparation for my trip.

I find myself panicking about the things I have yet to do and the less than firm arrangements at the other end. Yet I know in the depths of my soul that all will be well.

Today I spent a couple of hours with Dilys watching the past couple of episodes of the Big Silence that were shown recently on BBC2. For anyone who hasn't seen these programs they are well worth watching – of course if you really want to find God and change your life then you need to experience the silence for yourself.

There are many reasons why it was good to watch the programs today. Firstly as I mentioned I have been feeling under pressure of late – rushing here and there and never having a moment free. I was reminded how important it is to take time out and to be still. Secondly, I have experienced the 'Big Silence' personally. In 2006 I went to Loyola Hall – a Jesuit retreat centre for a 7 day silent retreat. I know what the people in the program experienced, because I too met God in the silence. It changed my life and whenever I stop and listen, he is still there beside me as a constant companion in my life. Thirdly it was Ruth Holgate, one of the spiritual guides appearing in the program and a good friend, who recognised my need and arranged my special retreat.

It was apparently by chance that I came across the BBC program The Big Silence, but then if you experience it you will know that is often how God works.

I was about to ring Jim and Jean a few days ago to find out where I could get one of the foldable holdalls that they lent me a year ago, when a postman arrived very early one morning with a parcel containing some beautiful hand knitted jumpers and a foldable holdall! I am sure that I will find some delighted children – though it will be a while before they need to wear the jumpers! It is currently about 22°C in Zambia! (And that's the overnight minimum!!)

I received my tickets a few weeks back now over the Internet. Having checked the dates, I looked at the luggage allowance – as expected 1pc. (I think that means one 23kg bag). With British Airways I fly World Traveller Class – otherwise known as economy! and yes the allowance is one 23kg bag. Now this always presents a bit of a problem. Hands Around the World are keen to ensure that I survive the trip so they give me a medical kit which equates to a small pharmacy! I then have a few friends who need laptops and cameras and solar chargers and solar lights and rechargeable batteries and well lots of things! Then there are some kind friends who give me gifts of jumpers, medical supplies, prayer books etc. which would be most welcome in Zambia. So I need to make sure of my personal allowance. It is a little tricky, but by logging on to BA and preparing for my flight I can get the full details of my flights and the associated conditions of travel. Once again the document I now have printed in front of me says I can check in 3 x 23 kg bags – thank you Lord, I didn't really want to leave that stuff behind – and I do have a lot of baskets and bags to bring back with me – not to mention a Christmas present or two!

Today Diven rang to ask me when I was arriving in Zambia and Jennipher is planning to meet me in Lusaka. Justine has promised to meet me at the airport , though my room back in Chisamba is occupied – I wait to see what is in store for me there! Accommodation in Monze seems to be secured, though I couldn't get hold of Sr. Barbara to confirm.

Last weekend I popped down to Hastings to spend a couple of days with my Dad. He is in his 90th year but was fit enough for a walk along the seafront and he put up well with my non-stop conversation. The Barrells have a certain gene which enables them to talk endlessly once they get going. So beware! We might seem shy to begin with, but given the opportunity we can bore anyone to death!

On Thursday we were invited to attend a play starring Helen, a friend of mine who I was privileged to pray for as she prepared for her first communion, some years back. My Fair Lady was performed by a local amateur dramatic society. Helen is now a good looking woman and was outstanding as Elisa Doolittle. I remember that I was preparing for my first trip to Zambia when Helen was celebrating her Confirmation in the Catholic Church. She had a party and I could only stay briefly because I was involved in a street collection, raising money for our trip, on that day.

Today I have started packing! For me this is very early, but I hope to get down to London on Monday to say cheerio to my daughter Helen, Demi her husband and Asia and Jack - two lovely grandchildren.

Although this trip is only 6 ½ weeks, it will be difficult to be away from the family again. In many ways it gets harder rather than easier with each trip. The fact that Dilys was so ill during my last trip makes it more difficult. I pray that this time she keeps well and enjoys the peace without me!

Bye for now, with my love and prayers

Chris

A new adventure is soon to begin

16th October 2010

Six months after returning from Zambia I am about to make another visit.

As usual I am thinking that there must be a lot I need to do in preparation and no doubt the day before I leave I will be rushing around trying to do things I should be doing now.

The weather in Zambia will have been dry since I left – possibly with no rain at all in the intervening months. Temperatures are rising – low to mid thirties being the normal maximum daily temperature. Much of the green will have gone to be replaced by a grey-brown parched and dusty land.

I have been in regular touch with my friends back in Monze and Chisamba trying to keep track of progress. The reality though is that internet access and mobile phones cannot replace face to face contact. Only by sitting with a friend in Zambia can I start to overcome some of the vast differences between us. There are lots of difficult issues to discuss and somehow even the phone is too impersonal and it would be so easy to end up with misunderstandings.


(The picture here is of Choolwe with Jennipher and Soloman)

Diven has now remarried and his shop is moving forward slowly. Jennipher is doing wonderful work but has suffered another tragedy. Choolwe, who joined Jennipher last year from Zimbabwe with her daughters Margaret and Anna, died two weeks ago from measles. Choolwe must have been in her early twenties – though she seemed much younger. Her daughter Margaret is probably 6 or 7 and Anna only 1 year old. It is tempting to think that such a loss in Zambia can't be felt as painfully as in the UK, but having been with so many friends who have suffered bereavement in Zambia I am aware the pain is just as bad – even though it might be more common.

I received an e-mail today from a friend in the USA who had been reading a book written by someone who had been travelling through Africa and had come to the conclusion that NGOs did more harm than good by creating dependency. I wouldn't defend everything that NGOs do but I know that everyday I meet people who would not be alive but for donated ARVs or food supplements. I am also aware of many that would not have died if additional nutrition or medicines had been available. Of course if we had a fair world, where the poorest weren't exploited by the wealthy, the people of Zambia and other countries could become self-sufficient. There is currently a campaign run by Christian Aid and other aid agencies to get large multinational companies to publish details of how much tax they pay in countries where they work. It is believed that large amounts of money due to poor countries is not paid by some companies whose names we are very familiar with. It is unfairness like this that takes much more from the poorest than is provided by NGOs.

I am told that my room next to the chickens in Chisamba is still available – though a shed next door was recently burnt down. I still have to negotiate for accommodation in Monze.

As usual this blog will be fairly quiet until I set off on my journey on 3rd November – then no doubt pages will flow unchecked for the next few weeks. I hope that you will join me on this journey and that I am kept well in check by the one who is responsible for all that is good. Please pray for me as I prepare for another adventure.

With love and prayers

Chris

My final day in Zambia

Tuesday18th May

Is it really almost 3 weeks since I arrived back in England?

It is always a strange experience jumping between the two worlds. In many ways it is like waking from a dream, I am aware of what I have experienced for 6 weeks but somehow it is difficult to make sense of the experience and difficult to really believe it.

After 6 weeks without a television or radio, being thrown into the madness of the last week of election fever, followed by the strange political solution highlighted the contrast. It also made me realise how little news is reported here in the UK – surely in our vast world there is enough happening to provide new news with each bulletin!

I will try to take myself back to Zambia and my final day. I had decided to try to check in before I left Chisamba. This was for two reasons – the first that I didn't want to have to roam Lusaka looking for an Internet café and second, the sooner I had a boarding card in my hand and 3 bags checked in, the happier I would be!

So at 8.50 I was already logged into the BA website poised to check in. In fact everything went very smoothly until I tried to print my boarding pass. My 3 bags were accepted without problem and I moved myself to a window seat towards the rear of the plane. I was about to accept that the printer wasn't going to work when there was a familiar banging and clanking and the printer (a new and relatively modern one!) came noisily to life and produced a very acceptable boarding pass. Once again my anxiety was ill-founded.

On Tuesday night I was unwell! Something very unusual for me in Zambia. I suspect that a combination of the concerns about not getting back because of the ash cloud ( particularly knowing how ill Dilys has been over the past few weeks) and worries about the logistics of doing the final few jobs, picking up my bags and getting around Lusaka just send my stomach in a spin. If you add to this not eating or drinking for too many hours, I suppose it wasn't surprising. So when I awoke on Wednesday I was feeling a bit delicate!



A friend of Justine's had agreed to take me to the crossroads, so we set off with Justine and the children after saying farewell to all at Kaliyangile. We have got to know each other quite well during my three weeks this year. It has been particularly good to stay on site where most of the staff are based.

Before very long I was on a small bus heading for Lusaka. I am not sure how many bus stations there are in Lusaka or quite how you know which one you will end up in! Still I am gradually getting to know my way around. (Here in the UK I have the luxury of being able to check things immediately on the Internet. I am told that Lusaka has three bus stations in the centre – which are named – the one I alighted from is a fourth!) So I found myself at Lumumba bus station. I rang Justina who gave me instructions for my next bus. However I was informed that I needed to go to the City Market bus station to catch my intended bus – fortunately not as great distance away! Justine then rang back to tell me to meet her at CHAZ! I had one heavy bag, a backpack and a laptop so I didn't relish a long walk, but still resisted the offers of assistance from the numerous taxi drivers.

I needed to meet up with Best and put him on 'hold' a couple of times as I wasn't sure where I would be when! When I mentioned I was heading for CHAZ he said he had never heard of the place and I agreed to make contact later. One of my little tasks was to pick up yet more kwacha. I frightened myself by adding my ATM receipts a day or too back and wondered where I could have found so much money – let alone where had it gone! My trip to the CHAZ offices at least took me past an ATM or two which sorted one dilemma. After about ½ hour sitting on my bags outside the office I began to wonder whether I had heard “CHAZ” correctly! Then Best sent a text saying he would see me at CHAZ! The chances of the three of us being at the same place at the same time did seem somewhat unlikely, but again I should have had more faith. Justina appeared on the other side of the road and almost immediately spotted a friend (an Irish nun) passing through the town. While they were deep in conversation Best appeared and I was able to introduce him and exchange the laptop. After the happy reunions I was able to go back on another bus (from Kulima Tower bus station) with Justina and pick up my cases from her house.

So by about 4 pm I was settled at Luwisha House, re-acquainting myself with the Jesuit priests I have come to know over the years.



This last night at Luwisha House has become something of a ritual. I can take myself away from my work in Zambia and begin to prepare for the transition to the UK. The surroundings and people are familiar and they also act as a bridge between North and South. Many of the priests have spent most of their lives in Africa, though they have roots in Europe or America. This time I was fortunate in being present for a community mass. We sat in the lounge for the service and it was a privilege to be included in the Community. I had shared at supper the difficulties Dilys had been having back home, so special prayers were offered for her during the service. After a short meeting, at which I was asked to stay, drinks and snacks were offered to finish a very pleasant evening.

Once again a hot shower was a luxury and I could indulge myself with the remainder of my shampoo and shower gel.

5.20 am was time to arise on the Thursday morning. My taxi was there on the dot of 6 am and whisked me off to the airport before I had any chance to say a final goodbye! Before 7 hrs I was in the departure lounge without any problems. I did have to open one of the bags containing the baskets, but the official was happy with the contents. The immigration officer queried how I needed a work permit if I was retired. Neither incident concerned me somehow and as to whether I am retired or self-employed but not being paid, working or visiting friends I decided not to go there!

I had intended using a few kwacha to buy a bottle or two, but my flight was called early and I was too late. Remembering last year when I had a black carrier bag with a few litres of liquid on the plane, I decided it probably saved me some more worry.

As we waited at the gate a couple of young lads did there best to murder each other and had to be stopped by the staff . On being asked who one boy was to the other, it was established that they were brothers. I was amazed that these teenagers could think it acceptable behaviour and was ashamed of my re-introduction to 'western' world. I am reminded of a discussion with a Zambian about teaching in Europe and his reaction that he couldn't possibly cope with the behaviour of European schoolchildren that he had witnessed.

On boarding the plane I found that my window seat had been taken by a very attractive young Zambian woman. I delayed insisting on my rights and once we were airborne noticed that at least she did seem to enjoy the view. She was heading for Norway where a cousin had settled. She was taking 3 months leave – something not unusual in Zambia (you can accumulate leave over a number of years and take it in one go). She had flown once before to Scandinavia in 2003 but couldn't recall much of that journey. As it happened she decided a swap mid-flight was appropriate, so I got plenty of time to enjoy the Sahara.

As usual the timing of meals on the flights was far from ideal. Lunch was at 10.30am and supper at about 6pm (Zambia time). This leaves the stomach a bit confused (a full English breakfast at 7 am didn't help!). It was cloudy over Europe which was a shame – particularly for Sheila – my new Zambian friend.

Sheila was concerned about the transit arrangements since she had less than an hour between landing at Heathrow and taking off for Oslo. Heathrow Terminal 5 can be a bit daunting! If you have travelled little, are not familiar with the UK, English is your second language (or worse!) then it can be a nightmare! Fortunately our routes followed the same path for the trickiest part. We descended the three flights of escalators from the disembarkation gate (the first time Sheila had used an escalator). We then boarded the driverless underground train that took us to the main terminal building. Sheila spotted a lift which she favoured to take us back to ground level – she didn't fancy more rides on the escalators and had already refused the moving walkway (and this from someone who had done white water rafting and bungy jumping!). I accompanied her along the corridors to the gates for her flight and left her in the capable hands of the staff. It wasn't far for me to go back to find immigration and swiftly pick up my three cases.

Once again I saw no one in the customs hall, though I spotted a few cameras and wondered whether people might suddenly appear or whether mechanical hooks would scoop suspicious characters into nearby interrogation rooms! Fortunately no such happening occurred to me and I was soon in the arrivals lounge.

Barby was busy getting herself a coffee when I arrived so I asked her to order one for me and we sat and relaxed for a few minutes before the journey home. It was good to get behind the wheel of a car again and drive back. It was also very good to get back home and be with Dilys again – especially after all she has been through during my absence.

The past three weeks seem to have been busy. I went straight up to Yorkshire the day after getting home, to play with the grandchildren, while Helen and Demi went to a friend's wedding. I have also been busy working on the Monze Diocese database, reporting back to HATW and trying to finalise arrangements for the visit of our Burmese friend. I have been in touch with Jennipher, Diven and Justine since returning and expect to maintain regular contact.

So what are my thoughts after this recent trip?

Once again I am a little surprised to be able to say that I felt the visit was very productive. It was important to visit the Kaliyangile project at this time. It gave me a chance to develop a close working relationship particularly with Justine. I also got to know Davison better. As always there were a number of issues that needed to be addressed and these are not easy to deal with at a distance.



It was good to see Zambia as the rains were finishing. The dry arid world I am used to had been transformed with tall green grass interspersed with pretty wildflowers. I did find it strange to leave the maize to dry on the plants. It seemed to me that the crops had been abandoned – of course in the UK anything left would soon rot.

Easter was very special. Having returned I miss the joy of the services in Zambia. We can learn a huge amount from the way in which the people in Zambia take a full part in the liturgical services. Their singing, drumming and dancing put our celebrations to shame.

Six weeks is not a long time! When split between two locations it felt very brief – especially in respect of Monze where my personal commitment is. I intend to go back in November for a visit of a similar length, but how my trips will be programmed in future years is very unclear. What I am committed to is a continuing relationship with Zambia and particularly the people of Monze.

It was very good to meet up again with many friends and to see them developing. The decent weather has given people a lot of hope this year. As always poverty is a huge problem in Zambia. The health service in the past year has deteriorated and essential medicines are materials are no longer available. The world financial problems mean that some are cutting down on their support for the poorest and Zambia is one of the poorest countries.



The problems of Zambia are too huge for me to resolve but if I can bring a little hope to just a few people then it has to be worthwhile and for me being with the people of Zambia brings a huge smile to my face which is something you cannot buy.

I expect this blog to have a rest for a while but no doubt by November it will once again be brought out of its slumber. Until then take care,

with my love and prayers

Chris