To Chisamba and Back

                                                  Jennipher setting off with my case

Since my last post I have been to Chisamba and back. So the events of Monday and Tuesday are a bit sketchy.

Monday continued.

Luke came around and we started talking about Jennipher and within a short time she too appeared. Luke had been saying that it was a long time since they had met. Luke has always been supportive of Jennipher even when she was not popular at the hospital. It was good for the two to get together again. It sometimes seems strange that I can bring people in Monze together, but sometimes that is the case. It reminds me of a time some years ago when my cousin visited from Australia. She asked how often I met with my brother and sisters. To my shame we hadn't met together for a year or two. She insisted that we all got together and now at least we try to met at least once a year.

I had been given a few things for Jennipher and her family from a friend. I also had some babies hats, a few knitted blankets, a solar/wind-up radio, a football, some Sudocrem, a solar security light and probably a few other items – she decided she might just as well take my (almost full) case, empty it and bring it back on Tuesday.

Tuesday

I arranged to meet Mrs. Sianga to catch up on some issues and to visit the new building. The problem with water is very severe. The school was allowed to re-open on Monday, but the health inspectors were keen that special precautions are taken to prevent the cholera outbreak from spreading. Without adequate water this is very difficult. Some drums of water are being fetched from Lushomo School at the moment, but this is unsatisfactory other than as an emergency measure. We talked about the options and it seems that the only quick solution will be to buy a bigger generator to pump water from PIZZ School's borehole.

                         Lunch

We talked a bit about David's visit and I suggested that going out with the care-givers would be useful. I would also like to have that opportunity myself. It would also be good to visit some more rural areas to see the impact of the lack of rains in recent years. Mrs. Sianga said that there are now few village chickens and goats because people are coming at night and stealing them. People are protecting their chickens by sleeping with them. How different it is from the lives many of us lead.

We arrived at the new plot where the building is largely complete – in that the walls are built and the roof is up. There is a veranda to allow passage between classrooms in the dry during the rainy season. The builders were plastering but there is more to do, windows need glazing and there is a lot of finishing work to do. Again water has been a problem – especially since the second generator broke a week or so back. The belief is that the generators used have not been powerful enough for the pump.

                                                                                                   The new classroom block

We visited the adjacent site where the older children study. Education inspectors were around assessing the facilities. For several years the school has tried to get registered to be an examination centre. The major issue seems to be a strong room. This was built a couple of years ago according to what was requested, but since then stronger locks, additional safe boxes, different metal gates etc. have been required. Despite doing everything asked, each visit brings further requirements – this was no different. They are also required to build a strong room at the other site at significant cost, despite only ever needing one for the school. I suspect that government schools do not have quite the restrictions placed on PIZZ.

I needed to talk to David and decide how we could resolve the current issues at PIZZ. Wey agreed a way forward. Fortunately I can use Skype to make calls to landlines in the UK very cheaply, allowing easy communications. (however as mentioned later there is also internet c onnection to be considered!)

Having written a few reports and had supper with Diven – during which Teddy came around – it was time for an early night.

                           1st School children

Wednesday

I was up by 5.30. Chisamba is a trip of about 150 miles, but a major factor in relation to the overall time is the wait before the transport is ready to leave. Using local transport the journey takes about 7 hours on an average sort of day, but can take longer!

It is not difficult to find a Rosa bus. Rosa's are the medium sized buses which take about 30 passengers. They are usually driven by competent drivers and have reasonably fixed seating arrangements! The small minibuses can take 20+ and are a bit more risky!!

Every time I think I understand something about life in Zambia I am surprised. Wednesday was no exception. As the Rosa passed I had to decide whether to jump in or to try to find a bus that would start earlier. There were half a dozen seats occupied by lads I expected were friends of the driver!! It is never good to drive around with an empty bus! Still I decided to jump aboard at just after 6 am. We drove around the town and after about a half hour we had perhaps one additional genuine passenger. At this point one considers jumping off – having not yet paid any fare – and looking elsewhere. However, I couldn't see any evidence that other buses were doing any better, so I stayed on board. We toured the town a few more times and possibly got 2 or 3 more passengers by 7am. To my surprise the bus headed out of town towards Lusaka. Now if there is one rule that never gets broken, it is that buses are full before they travel. Certainly an empty bus never leaves Monze. I was therefore not surprised when the bus stopped as it reached the edge of town. All the lads got off leaving about 4 of us who might be paying passengers. I asked one of the passengers what was happening and he said we would now be going. With that he jumped off the bus himself and hopped into an awaiting car. Eventually the driver and conductor got back onboard, leaving their remaining friends by the side of the road and the empty bus was on its way to Lusaka!!

The bus made good progress, filling up en-route. The driver didn't believe in queuing in traffic and took a dirt road at Chilanga on the outskirts of Lusaka to avoid the evil set of road humps and consequent queues. He also had a knack of finding the best lanes as we approached Lusaka, though he was fairly assertive when changing lanes!

The Rosa's drop off on the Monze side of town. We are still on the Great North Road now known as the Kafue Road. The Lumumba Road at a right angle takes me straight to Lumumba bus station were I pick up my next bus – this is about a 20 minute walk. This bus is a little Toyota Hiace minibus (the more risky one!!) we again pick up the Great North Road. It is quite a road good and I resent paying twice the price for a Rosa – hence I risk the little minibus. My wait was minimal so by about 11hrs I was once more on the road.

I am dropped off at the Chisamba crossroads. Here I leave the Great North Road and take the road to Chisamba Town – about 23 Km from the crossroads. I have walked before, but not today! I jumped into an awaiting taxi, which, when two of us joined the three passengers already in the car, set off immediately. (A taxi ride is generally a very cosy affair!!)

Getting out of the car I spotted Patrick. Patrick has been involved with the Kaliyangile project since its inception. His family has loaned the land to the project for a nominal rent. Patrick's father died just a few weeks ago. We exchanged a few brief words and agreed to meet up to talk some more before I left.

The site for the project is close to town – less than a kilometre from the centre – but that short distance makes it feel quite rural and quiet. The wind pump on the site can clearly be seen from the main street in Chisamba.

I passed Albert a few metres down the road. Albert is someone who has become involved in recent years as a committee member at Kaliyangile. Again we exchanged a few brief words.

I missed the short cut through small tracks and on doubling back saw Persis, the project manager, waiting for me. The purpose of my visit was to see the state of the project and discuss issues and plans, I also wanted to check on preparations for David's visit.

The rest of the afternoon was taken up talking to Persis about the project and walking around the site to see how the activities were working on the ground.

Kaliyangile has about 10 Hectares of land. Over the years the site has installed a number of buildings for training, a couple of barns for chickens, a piggery, various storerooms and some accommodation. It also has a fairly sophisticated water distribution system. There were four piglets and three new calves since I visited last year.

I was shown my accommodation – somewhere I am now well familiar with. This year the cows would be milked directly outside my house! A former storeroom with a mattress on the floor provides ample accommodation for a couple of nights. Toilets are only a 100 metres away!

I arrangement to eat with Davidson. Persis accompanied me to the town centre so I invited her to join us. Although Davidson no longer works at Kaliyangile the relations are still good and they were pleased to catch up over fish and nshima.

                                    Milking

After the meal Davidson persuaded me to join him for a game of pool - not that I took much persuasion! The way the system works the winner usually stays at the table. In the event we both had a game, but we didn't play each other. Davidson had to get to a new job as a security guard by 20 hrs so after showing the way to the centre he left.

The moon is currently quite full and provides plenty of light with which to see, so there was no problem finding my way at night. I always delight in the powerful moon and particularly its shadow here in Zambia.

Thursday

I spent most of the day reflecting on what I had seen and heard. I took a trip to meet the bees wearing gumboots to protect me either from the bees or the snakes – or perhaps both!! 

                                                                                                My house at night

I discussed some thoughts with Persis during the afternoon and also took the chance to meet Patrick and talk to him about the project.

I have had little time this year to observe the birds and other creatures about, but Kaliyangile makes me more aware of the environment. The local mosque swallows are here. A few lizards run up and down the walls. I have a resident spider that seems to live behind my bathroom mirror home in Monze. I thought he was dead at first, but he had changed position one day – so probably not!! There is a cat who seems to live in my garden and thinks I will one day start feeding him if he rubs up against my feet and tries to make himself lovable! I will make time to touch base with nature soon.

                                                                           

I arranged to have an early supper with Davidson and perhaps have a better chance to talk – the bar has loud music which isn't conducive to discussion. I assumed that Davidson had an early shift. It seemed however when we met that he thought we might get on the pool table more easily at this time!! This time after I beat my opponent – in fact he was well ahead but beat himself by going in off the black when he potted it – don't worry if you are not familiar with the rules of pool. Basically he made a foul shot which resulted in him forfeiting the game. The outcome was that I played Davidson. I was about to win when Davidson pulled out a series of spectacular shots to beat me – Davidson currently holds the title of champion!! We returned for another couple of games after the meal,

I had to get back in order to do some work on the computer. The MTN network was not good and it wasn't until 22.30 that I managed to e-mail my report.

Friday 20^th May

I was not looking forward to the trip back to Monze. After some further discussion with Persis I was ready to depart when a face from the past arrived.

Godfrey was involved with the project for many years. For some time he was the committee chairman. For the past few years he has not been involved, though very occasionally I have received e-mails from him. He contacted me to say that Patrick's father had died. He also mentioned that he intended getting involved again in the project. We talked for almost two hours about the project and his thoughts.

                             Piglets

It was about 12 hrs when I found my way to the taxi, ready to hit the road. There is rarely any delay getting a bus from the crossroads and this was the case on Friday. As we approached Lusaka – perhaps 5Km from the centre we were told to disembark and were led to another bus which took us into the centre. It is not an unusual occurrence to finish a journey on a different bus to that which I started! The buses into Lusaka may drop at almost any bus station. Maybe someone understands which go where, I haven't a clue! However, it is never more than a half hour walk to the Kafue road stop, where I get the Rosa back to Monze. In this instance it was no more than ten minutes away – though we all disembarked before the bus found the bus station, because of the traffic jam.

Eventually I arrived in Monze at 7.30 pm – a fairly average 7 ½ after leaving Chisamba.

I have had a distinct lack of tea since leaving Monze on Wednesday morning. In fact NONE!!! I made up for it on Friday evening. I picked up a sausage and chips takeaway from Tooters and finished my day with a hot shower and all was well with the world.

Saturday

Today was a restful day. Power didn't arrive until 2 pm. I popped out to the shops and bought an electric kettle and a flask. The kettle works – we shall see how effective the flask proves to be.

I met Luke in town and we returned to Homecraft together.

We spent some time discussing politics here and in the UK and found a lot of similarities. In particular the apparent lack of concern for the most vulnerable and a tendency for politicians to look after their own personal interests, often at the expense of the ordinary citizens. It is sad that the world over the gap between the poorest and the wealthiest is still growing.

Luke is from a large family which lost both parents when the children were young. Luke managed to complete his education and since then has taken on responsibility for supporting as many of his siblings and their children as possible. It is very difficult particularly because schools here charge fees for attendance and more for exams. There are many who don't get a chance to get a secondary education. Luke's small income has to go a long way.

                             spot the beetle!

On the way to the shops I met Maxwell. Maxwell was a student at PIZZ School who was supported through secondary school by Hands Around the World. He did well with his final exams and is keen to progress to university, or teacher training college. He is currently applying to these institutions. I would like to be able to support all the children to reach their full potential but we need to raise the necessary funds. We have funds established for both secondary and tertiary education where donors can contribute. Whether we have sufficient to fund Maxwell at the moment I doubt.

Fr. Clement popped in around supper time. We talked about various topics including the introduction of an oil press at Our Lady of the Wayside church. A generous parishioner at St. Gregory's has donated the money needed for this equipment. We are currently waiting for the transferred money to reach the church account in Monze. There are some cables to be moved by the electricity supplier, before the press can be installed in the appropriate position, but it is hoped that the site will be ready by the end of the week. I hope to see it working before I leave in July.

I have now been here for about ten days and have met a good number of friends. Many people call me over to say hallo and I confess I am not sure to whom I am speaking. Others I am delighted to see once again. Two ladies who greeted me with big hugs this year were Ireen and Sebia. I don't think I introduced Ireen – my tailor. In 2004 I was staying with a volunteer (Emily). She and an American visitor decided to have a shirt made for me. Since then Ireen has made a shirt for me every year. I usually choose the material or several pieces from which she chooses the best. Ireen has three children who she tries to support through school by her work as a tailor and a few other small enterprises – buying and selling small quantities of commodities. I need to pick up some material for this year's shirt!

I have known Sebia for many years. I first met her on the road (Yes the Great North Road again!). This time I was heading to Pemba for the first time to visit Jennipher. Pemba is about 35Km along the road in the direction of Livingstone. Sebia was also going in the same direction and guided me. We met subsequently at the hospital where she works in the small cafe. I always get a very warm welcome from Sebia. We will no doubt meet again when I call around to the hospital.

Another person I met today in one of the shops asked about Jennipher and told me that Lillian who I know from the hospital has been off sick for the past couple of months.

It is good to feel a part of this community. I get to know about so much through friends and acquaintances here in a very short time. There are so many connections. In Cheltenham I can wander around town for days without anyone even saying hallo!

Well you too are up to date. Somehow my 2GB month's supply of internet access has been used already!! I will need to buy more before this can be posted.

Take care,

Chris

Apologies for the photo labels, but they seem to move on publication! I'll try to sort something next time!!

                                                                  A proud mum!

Pentecost

 

The outdoor mass at Our Lady of the Wayside

I am confusing myself with the days so I will continue by giving the date of events rather than the day I record them!

I certainly have a prime position here at Homecraft – so good that there is a constant stream of visitors calling by.

Pentecost Sunday 15^th May

I was told that there would only be one service on Sunday so that everyone could attend. So instead of the mass I attend being at 10 hrs it would take place at 9hrs. I was therefore duly at the chuch on time. It soon dawned on me the other implication of a single mass – it would be outside under the blazing African sun!

While in Zambia I occasionally use suntan lotion, but as I usually move about in and out of buildings I don't put it on as a matter of course. Haven't not thought through the Pentecost celebrations I didn't smear any on yesterday.

I was given a paper with the order of service which stated the start as being at 9.30 am so at least until that time I could take some shelter. 9.30 passed and 10 while I was in the pews. At about 10.30 the service began with a large procession, including the 95 candidates who would be confirmed during the mass. The Bishop of Monze was the main celebrant. Both Fr. Clement and Fr. Raphael were also in attendance. Fr. Raphael was in fact involved in Our Lady of the Wayside before it became a parish, he is still very much involved but also has work at the Bishop's office.

Celebrations in Zambia are not short affairs and this was no exception! Conferring the sacrament of confirmation on so many candidates didn't mean that short cuts were taken elsewhere. The service ended at 14 hrs (5 hours after I arrived at the church). I was ready to make a speedy exit when I was told that I was invited for lunch. I find it difficult when someone invites to to such functions. I am sometimes not sure what authority they have or whether they are just messengers. If I refuse it might seem rude, if I go though not officially invited, I am sure they will make a place for me.

Anyway I joined the priests, one or two other guests, those newly confirmed and the bishop for lunch in the church hall.

I was given a lift home by Pauli an Italian lady who has spent the past 7 years in Zambia working in accounts in the bishop's office and also helping at Our Lady of the Wayside. She turns out to be my next door neighbour.

I decided to spend the remainder of the day relaxing, reading and beating the computer at backgammon – it finds it difficult coping with my unusual strategies.

Monday 16^th May

I rinsed the washing and put it on the line. This morning it was not in the sun, but I am certain it will be very dry by now. I even did a little sweeping around the house. In Zambia sweeping seems to be very important – particularly outside the house. People seem to spend hours sweeping leaves from the dust. Last year I was always being told off because it was dusty outside. It is a particular crime if you have a bit of concrete which isn't kept spotless!

Inside my house it is quite dull on account of the many trees growing close to the building. However I am taking advantage of a reasonable battery in the laptop to come out in the garden where it is very pleasant – not least because of the many trees. It is the start of the short winter season here and temperatures are in the mid twenties centigrade. I have seen a few clouds, but rarely is the sun covered. At the moment I cannot see a cloud in the sky!

Power didn't arrive today until about midday, although I was aware that when the sun was rising we still had electricity from last night – I turned over and went back to sleep!

Best came around this morning. He had just returned from seeing Chief Monze. In Zambia the chiefs still have considerable power. Chief Monze is one of a few Paramount Chiefs who are in charge of the major tribes. Best is currently doing research into tribal laws which differ from state law and vary from tribe to tribe. He needs to meet four of the five major chiefs as part of this research. He will write a paper as part of his work leading hopefully to admission to the bar at the end of the year. It has been a long (and expensive) journey, but it should all be worthwhile.

                    Best at my back door

Bright was waiting to see me and followed once Best had left. He told me that his son Brian failed two subjects last year and will need to resit this year. In the meantime he is doing some piece work to earn a bit of money. Bright is back at the front gate at the hospital on security duty. he told me that his house is coming up and promised to take me to see how the work is progressing.

Teddy popped around unannounced. The position of the house makes it easy for people to pop around to say hallo. I am very happy to be in the thick of things here. He is working with Diven to sort out the issue of a shop that stands immediately in front of his house and next to his shop. Diven is concerned that if someone else buys it he will experience problems – he would therefore like to secure it himself. Teddy is acting as broker with the owner.

You are now up to date!! I am expecting Luke to call around any moment. Luke used to work in the hospital stores in 2004 when I was dev eloping a stock control system there. He went to college and came back to work in Human Resources at the hospital and after a couple of other moves is now in a small town (we would say village) Chikuni about 20 Km from Monze. Luke came to Lochinvar National Park – 35 Km from Monze – with Dilys and myself just after his uncle was injured in the same car crash that killed Bentoe. Luke is now married with a child. He has a lot of nieces and nephews that he supports – trying to help them complete their education.

Diven and Jennipher are expected later!!

Chris

My mission in Monze

                                                            Paul, Grand and Delia

Saturday 14^th May – 14hrs

I will try to quickly catch up on events. Power went again after about an hour this afternoon but has now returned.

Yesterday I arose at about 8 am and met Mrs. Sianga at the Finance Bank. My copy letter was too faint to scan and send to Lusaka, so we needed to find an internet cafe which operated without mains power! Fortunately in one of the back roads we found a 'Solar powered cafe'. To which Mrs. Sianga remarked – we can run the computers using solar!! The money hasn't arrived but the bank is at least chasing it. We will check on Monday. At least there are few queues at Finance Bank and Mrs. Sianga has access to the manager so you don't have to waste half a day per visit as can happen.

I picked up a few items and was pleased to get money out of the ATM. Last year they didn't give me money during power cuts!!

Time to settle in! There was plenty to do catching up with e-mails. I made my self some guacamole sandwiches for lunch. It is nice to have fresh produce – I haven't seen avocados growing in Cheltenham!. I was surprised to pay 8 kwacha for an avocado (about 60p) but it is worth it. I couldn't find a lime or lemon and didn't risk the oil I found in the house, but it still tasted good.

Diven had taken his wife to the clinic and he popped around afterwards. He enjoyed guacamole sandwiches for the first time.

Mrs Sianga called around to help me with a report I needed to send for Global Giving with regard to the school meals. I took the opportunity to lighten a case and gave her some footballs and some knitted blankets.

Its amazing how time flies! I made myself some scrambled eggs with rice, onions and tomatoes – a quick standby – did some work on the internet and it was time for bed!!

No early morning calls or appointments this morning. I have spent my time writing the blog and reading when my laptop battery has gone flat. I have managed to book accommodation in Lusaka for David and myself when he arrives at the beginning of June. I am also charging my solar devices – the phone charger, security light, two smaller lights – one with a radio and a separate radio. I spent a little while sitting outside reading – it is particularly good to have this option. The house is quite dull inside because of all the surrounding trees, but in the garden it is bright and airy and I feel my spirit rise. (Very appropriate with Pentecost Sunday tomorrow.)

Obert rang earlier. Some years back I was walking down the road from Our Lady of the Wayside and a teenager came to me and said “I have a problem”. This is not as unusual approach. I try not to ignore people, but listen to their stories. He told me that his problem was that one of his legs had grown but the other, being artificial, had not. He needed another leg or his current one extending. It is difficult when you are constantly approached by people with real needs. I couldn't help, but promised to spread the word. Back in the UK, I mentioned the issue to a friend and he gave me the money for a new leg. I only knew his name was Obert and it took me a couple of years to find him! Obert got his new leg and the other extended, he finished his education, took lessons and obtained a driving licence. I know his family and he has become another friend – he will probably join me for supper tonight.

I will continue – it is now 19.20

I can easily forget so much about my life in Zambia. This afternoon helped me to remember!

This afternoon I had agreed to visit Diven and see his wife Delia and young son Paul. Not unusually I couldn't reach him on his phone – I think he needs a new one! I decided to set off, calling into the market en-route. My main target was the lady with the spices who refers to me as her other husband. I was passing into the market when I was called to a shop. The lady seemed to know me and I thought I knew her! I think I confused her with someone else because she didn't respond when I talked about the church. Anyway she told me she was struggling and couldn't afford school fees for her children. I bought a few items I needed and told her that unfortunately I cannot support everyone in Monze. Everyday I will be asked several times to sponsor someone as well as getting many demands for money for food. It is difficult, though necessary, to say no.

I was disappointed that my “wife” was not around. I have known her for years and bought tomatoes and onions as well as spices from her. I wanted to get my tailor Ireen to make Dilys a dress but I only picked up a single chitenge and needed another matching piece. Having described the chitenge material she helped me locate the stall in the market to get a second piece. She is very useful if I am not sure where I can buy something- and we always share a good bit of banter.

                                                                                                                     A local stall

When it appeared that the stallholder wasn't going to appear another lady came and supplied me with spices, garlic and ginger from my friend's stall.

I decided to take a short cut from the market – not always a good move for me!! I was soon greeted by someone I wanted to meet last year but failed to contact. I knew her and her husband well, through the church. A few years back the husband beat his daughter so badly that she died from the injuries. He was charged and his wife and another daughter (who witnessed the incident) attended court. He was convicted of manslaughter and was given a prison sentence of several years. Despite everything the wife didn't desert her husband and visited him in jail. (a couple of years ago I visited him along with her at Mazabuka prison). Last year he was given an early release. I met him on a few occasions both at the church and near the house where I was staying. He is currently living separate from his wife.

We stood and talked for a half hour or more. I was mainly listening. She told me she has forgiven him a long time ago and hopes one day they will be together again. It is a very difficult situation with some people blaming her for his conviction. I pray that one day all will be made good and that the spirit of love prevails. I will continue to try to be a friend to both husband and wife.

I was pleased to have taken what turned out to be a very long short cut – the Lord works in mysterious ways.

Eventually I found my way to Diven's house where I found Delia and Paul sitting on the ground. Delia looked much healthier than I had expected and Paul looked like a bundle of fun. Diven also introduced me to his father who was staying in Diven's second room. Apparently in Zambia your father's brother is also your father!! This is the case in this instance. I have always had some difficulty with the relationships in Zambia. Brothers and sisters are often what we call cousins and anyone from the same tribe is a cousin!

                       Delia and Paul

I chatted to Diven and Delia and played with Paul. Paul even took a picture with my camera – a budding photographer, see what you think!! I was not only impressed with the bond between Delia and Paul, but also Paul's relationship with his grandfather – or great uncle! 

 

 

                                                                                                                Paul takes his first photo

Diven had some work done to prevent water from the roof of the shop next door from flooding his shop and house. It is an impressive bit of construction which he tells me works very well. We discussed Diven's plans for securing his property before I made my way. I was already being paged by Raymond who was waiting at home for me.

                                                             The house with drainage system

 

A few yards along the road a guy shouted greetings to me. I didn't recognise him even when he talked about music and DVDs. It turned out to be Boniface. I met Boniface last year, though I had heard of him before and he will have known me, because he was a student at PIZZ School. Boniface didn't complete his studies, but he is a talented musician and decided to earn his money through music. Last year he made a video and wrote a song celebrating PIZZ School. You can see and hear it on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4imMH7UYqaw 

Boniface is keen to get his music recognised. I am sure he has talent and would encourage anyone to listen to his music and if you can do anything to promote him, please let me know. We exchanged phone numbers and agreed to meet.

I arrived at Homecraft to be told that their was a man and woman waiting for me. Raymond was with a lady. Obert rang and found us, but Raymond wanted a few moments of privacy. I was wondering about the young lady and was ashamed eventually to realise that it was his fiancée, who he had said he would bring around after I asked him to introduce her to me. It must be old age!!

Raymond doesn't miss anything and quickly homed in on the various solar devices on show – telling me he would have one of the lights. (Raymond has never been subtle). They chatted for a while over some squash – I was aware of Obert outside and so didn't boil the kettle (well at the moment it is still a pan!). Obert eventually said he would return tomorrow – he isn't keen on cycling long after dark. I promised him an undisturbed slot!

 

Raymond collected the battery charger and mouse he and Charles had asked for and departed with his fiancée. He rang later to ask me if I approved of his fiancée! Charles is the director of the PEASSA project. He had a stroke some years back and needs to use a wheelchair. Charles and I discuss everything from politics (worldwide and local) to the running of his project and the meaning of life! I look forward to these discussions. Charles is currently away on a course despite having another stroke and being quite ill during the past year.

                                                                                                 Local Children

I received a call from Bright a few minutes ago, word must have spread! Bright is a gentle man who works at the hospital. Last year he was working as a cleaner at the mortuary, he has also been acting as a security guard. He has a son Brian with hearing difficulties. Brian has been at a special school where he has developed very well passing all his exams. Last year Best took me to his house which he has been building. He has a decent sized plot and has ambitions to build himself a big house. A smaller building is already in place for his family. Like many people here Bright does most of the building work himself. He is very resourceful and determined to provide well for his family despite his relatively lowly paid position.

I agreed to be in touch with Bright and meet him early next week.

It is good to have many friends here in Monze, but it does lead to a busy life and since everyone has their challenges, it is also be demanding. You can perhaps see why I need to have my own house and be in the centre of town. However feel very privileged to to be able to share my life with the people here and wouldn't want it any other way.

With my love and prayers especially as we celebrate the coming of the Holy Spirit this Pentecost,

Chris

              The Simungalu family

Meeting friends

Saturday 14^th May

My phone rang at 8.30 am on Thursday morning. Mrs. Sianga had a couple of problems, but had allowed me to sleep in after my long journey!

Mrs. Sianga is probably the main reason I wanted to get to return to Monze and get to know the people. We met in 2003 and I spent a life-changing afternoon meeting some of her patients – she was a nurse looking after people dying of AIDS. She had nothing beyond a few paracetamol tablets and words of comfort but they were grateful for her kindness and love during their last months. It was a huge privilege to be welcomed into these people's modest homes. Mrs Sianga set up PIZZ School because she got to know so many orphaned children left by her patients. You can read more about PIZZ School using this link. PIZZ School

My first official appointment was made for 14 hrs.

I had been warned that there would be no power before 10 hrs (unless I decided to rise before 5am!). However, since I had no provisions, my first task was pop across the road to get some cornflakes, milk and teabags in readiness.

My house is just a few doors away from a little flat I used on a number of occasions – with a single bedroom, living room, bathroom and kitchen it was ideal. A few years back it developed a crack and was considered unsafe – it is now an office like the remainder of that block. As I passed the offices I thought I should say hallo to the receptionist Agnes. She in turn told me to greet Sr Barbara – the administrator for the Projects Team.

                                                                                                                                                                      The Project offices  from outside my house

Sr. Barbara is an Irish nun who has been in Zambia for many years. I did a little work for the team some years back analysing data for some of the poor communities in Monze Diocese.

We chatted a little about the current situation. There is a cholera outbreak in Monze at the moment with a few cases in Manungu. It seems to be just a few isolated cases. The Projects Team are finding funding very difficult at the moment and have had to reduce staffing. I was surprised to find out that the house I am staying in, though in the same compound is not managed by them. In fact Sr. Barbara didn't know that I was moving in as a near neighbour.

I was expecting power to return and was in desperate need of that cup of tea!! I have so far travelled 50 yards from my house! At the exit to Homecraft – another 50 yards and Rasta Brian was passing “Hallo Mr. Chris, when did you come? Good to see you, you are welcome.” was his greeting – echoing what will be very common over the next few days. Brian sells small items – polish, incense sticks etc. on the corner outside the Cathedral. I have known him for many years. He is an intelligent guy, but couldn't afford to finish his education. He sometimes gets me to put on some boxing gloves and do a little sparring.

Another 10 yards and Killian said hallo. Killian helps with administration at PIZZ School. Killian already knew about my 2 pm meeting.

My shop is only 30 metres away, but another friend shouted greetings from his car! Teddy is a friend who I worked closely with from 2014 and 2016. His boss and also very close friend was Bentoe. Together we were developing computer systems for the hospital. Unfortunately Bentoe was killed in a horrific road accident in 2006. Since that time Teddy has been Acting Information Manager – apparently not having the proper qualifications for the full post.

Teddy had been taking a patient home as he happened to have his car at the hospital, I looked for my shop and realised I had overshot. As I returned past Teddy I decided to ask about the Internet and the best network. He told me he had a dongle he wasn't using and confirmed that MTN was the best network.

At last I made it to my shop not much more than 100 metres from my front door!! My friend the shopkeeper greeted me ( I have never known his name), but he disappointed me by having neither cornflakes or teabags!! In the past he would get large (1Kg) boxes of cornflakes and boxes of 100 teabags for me (500grams cornflakes and 50 teabags were always available). He told me there was a big shop up the road where I could get these. It seems his market was being stolen.

I like to use the smaller shops and stalls when in Monze – not that there have been many large outlets in the past. Traditionally this shopkeeper supplied me with talk-time and a few items not available on the market stalls – such as cornflakes, tea bags etc.

I did look for the larger store, but wasn't disappointed not to find it! I decided to go around the small shops opposite Homecraft and call into them one by one until I found the items I needed. On the way I picked up a few bottles of Finta (UHT milk) from a stallholder I know and was greeted by a few more stallholders one shouting out “Hallo Chrissy!”

You might think that in a row of grocers you would only have to go into one to get standard items like cornflakes and teabags. Of course here these are luxury items for many, and therefore not worth stocking by all. Eventually I had my items and returned feeling elated that I had really arrived back in my second home.

Its 11.30 on Saturday the power has just come on, so it is time for some serious tea drinking!

Back to Thursday!

I was keen to sort out the internet in order to look at Mrs. Sianga's issues – the priority to chase a bank transfer that hasn't arrived. The school had remarkable success last year in the exams and I persuaded Hands Around the World to cover the school fees at local secondary schools. Usually transfers are very smooth but for some reason there is a glitch with the payment and children will not be allowed to start this term unless the fees are paid.

                                 My Lounge

I called Teddy but there was no answer so I headed for the hospital anyway. There is a short c ut between the hospital and Homecraft if you can find the right gates. (Those who know my sense of direction will understand my challenge!!) I did get to the hospital, but via the school of nursing!! Teddy wasn't in his office, but the door was unlocked. This time when I rang Teddy answered and came running (literally) to meet me. He was, as usual, in a meeting but gave me the dongle.

I headed out of the Hospital using the main entrance which opens onto the main street in Monze which is part of the Great North Road between South Africa and Tanzania (originally planned to link Cape Town and Cairo). More importantly on this road – otherwise known as Monze High Street - there is an MTN office where I can buy a SIM card.

As I came to the exit of the hospital I was greeted with big hugs from Jennipher and Diven. You will hear a lot more about Diven. I have promised to write a book about the adventures of Diven, so I will just give the briefest of introductions. Diven was one of the first people I came to know outside of my HATW projects. I was waiting to meet someone at the hospital, but the offices were closed. There was a guy with an ankle in plaster standing around. This was Diven. He had been given a little work as debt collector and the debtor hit him with a rock instead of paying! I must have given Diven my address in the UK and he wrote – we have kept in touch ever since and have become good friends through thick and thin – and there is plenty of that , but you will have to wait for the book!!

We went together to buy the SIM. Fortunately I had remembered my passport which is needed in order to register the card. The process took a few minutes and a few minutes later the card was activated. I was able to buy talk-time which I would convert into 2GB of data. The SIM card cost 5 Kwacha (about 30p) but you get a credit of 15 Kwacha talk-time, which is not a bad deal!!

Diven had to get some medicine for his wife so he left me and Jennipher accompanied me to my house where we chatted briefly. Jennipher's daughter Selina is going to start boarding and needs a few items such as a mattress and a reading light. Fortunately I had been giving a good solar powered reading light so I was able to hand it over.

My life in Zambia follows a similar pattern to that in England. I feel that I am doing little, yet when I record my activity, I am rarely idle.

I was greeted by a few people who know me from church as I walked to PIZZ school where I had arranged to meet Mrs. Sianga. There are always plenty of challenges for the school. At the moment water is a big problem. The school is currently split between two sites a kilometre or so apart. The original school buildings have electricity and mains water except that electricity is not around most of the morning and the water supply is small and very erratic. Sometimes several days pass without any water coming from the tap. All the children get a cooked meal each day which is a major challenge when the taps are dry. My major formal role here in Monze is to listen to the issues and see whether there is a way to help resolve the problems with the backing of Hands Around the World. There will be a lot more work to do on this and other issues facing PIZZ School. Some, though not all, will come down to the question of funds.

I was able to connect to the Internet and talk to David back home while with Mrs. Sianga.

I needed some food for supper. It was a joy wandering around the market stalls spotting some of my favourite vegetables and chatting to the stallholders.

Next trip was to the internet cafe to print a letter relating to the bank transfer. 

                                                                                                              The dining area 

I invited Diven for supper which I cooked while we talked. His wife has been very seriously ill, but, with Jennipher's help and advice, is improving. Paul, their baby son, is also getting stronger I am told. Both were apparently close to death a few weeks back. We enjoyed a meal of Kapenta (small dried fish), aubergine, impwa (a local vegetable), dwarf beans, green peppers, onions and tomatoes with sweet potato. I will equip myself with a few spices in the days to come!!

I am very lucky to be so close to town and the market. The house is very comfortable with a large lounge/dining room, well equipped kitchen, shower, toilet and good sized garden. It has 3 bedrooms which will provide adequate accommodation for David and Joanna when they stay. It has a very good water supply – it must be from a borehole – and I even have the very rare luxury of hot water!!

This time you will have to make do with photos of the house. Later I will try to have photos of the people!

Chris

                                                                          The Kitchen

The Journey

13^th May

I am settling into my new house here in Monze after a reasonable trip from the UK.

The flight left Heathrow more or less on time. Setting off at 6.30 pm inevitably leads to a confusing few hours. It was probably after 10 pm when supper was finished and thoughts of settling for the night were uppermost.

                         Leaving London

I decided to watch North by Northwest over supper and remembered just how good Hitchcock was!

At about 11 pm I closed my eyes in a vain attempt to get some sleep. At 4am (Kenya time) the lights went on and breakfast was served! An hour later at 3am BST we landed at Nairobi. I had forgotten that we needed to go through security once more – this time shoes off as well as having to take the two notebooks out of my backpack and the laptop out of its bag. One of the staff decided to investigate this backpack which I had left half open in my sleepy stupor. She was particularly interested in the multiple packs of soap. (Jennipher has taken a particular fancy to Wright's Coal Tar soap, so if I have any weight allowance remaining it is filled with soap) Eventually they decided they weren't lethal weapons and gave me back my luggage – complete with soap!

At 7am (or 5am as I like to think of it) boarding commenced for the plane to Lusaka. The gate seemed to lead outside – though I did wonder if I had taken a wrong turn, since it seemed that there was a direct route from the gate to another plane!– a bus stood nearby, but no one giving directions. I jumped aboard and hoped that, after a 5 minute drive, the plane we found was going in the right direction. It was a relatively small plane – less than 100 seats and luggage lockers were rather full. Anyway all was well and we had a peaceful flight to Lusaka – well it was peaceful for me, because I slept most of the way. 

                                                                                                Clouds in th UK!!

I usually enjoy the flight but after spending a night awake it is hard to take in the views.

As we approached Lusaka we were informed that we would have to circle for a while. It turned out that the president was using the airport and so it was closed! We landed about 20 minutes later.

I am used to a long queue at immigration. Last year it took me 3 - 4 hours to pass through. On Wednesday I was through in 5 minutes! I picked up a trolley and my bags appeared immediately on the carousel. Before 10 am I had picked up some cash and was being directed to my taxi.

I have learnt in recent years that you cannot haggle with the fares at the airport – there is a fixed charge into town – this year 250 Kwacha (a little under £20). I was almost at the bus station when I realised that it would be easier to pick up the battery for the mobile phone charger while I had transport. So I asked the driver to divert. Fortunately I had located the shop and had a map from the internet and I was told it wouldn't take long.

I picked up a battery from this shop last year but didn't recognise the road – in fact I was sure it wasn't right. After driving up and down and eventually activating my phone I called the shop only to find is was on the other side of Lusaka! In the end all was well and we were back at the Intercity bus station at about 11 hrs.

My driver suggested that rather than try to get through the traffic inside the bus station, it would be better for me to get the ticket and he would park outside in the taxi rank. I first tried Mazandu buses and was told that I would have to wait until 19 hrs. Many people tried to persuade me to catch their bus – going now now!! I suspected that now now might be after 19 hrs anyway. So I fought my way to the Shalom kiosk and was told there were still seats on the 14hrs bus.

 

                Circling near Lusaka

The whole process of getting a bus at Intercity is quite fraught. You have crowds of people jostling about you, people wanting to take you to their bus, while claiming it is one of the major players i.e. Shalom or Mazandu. Other people try to take your cases – helpfully?

Apparently I was at the wrong window to get my ticket for Shalom. By the time I was at the front of the queue about 15 minutes later - someone had returned a ticket for the 11.30 am bus, so it appeared I was in luck. The only issue was now getting my luggage to the bus with only 10 minutes to spare.

5 minutes later I was feeling a bit foolish! I had a ticket for a bus about to leave, but my luggage was in a taxi, the driver of which I couldn't contact and who was no where to be seen!! I wondered what would become of the babies hats and bottles of clove oil not to mention the footballs and solar powered devices!

Another driver seeing my plight suggested we ask the people at reception to make an announcement over the Tannoy. Just after making this arrangement, I spotted my driver and with much relief ran to my bus – it now being 11.30. My elation was somewhat short lived when I was told there was no room for my luggage and that I was late and would have to wait for another bus!!

Expecting that after queuing again, I would be relegated to the 19 hrs I was relieved that when I eventually found my replacement ticket, I had been placed on the 13 hrs bus.

Perhaps not surprisingly I was now wide awake!!

At least Shalom buses run to time. We set off at 13 hrs. 15 minutes later we had reached the exit of the bus station! I will leave the scenes in the station to your imagination. A pastor came on board to give us a sermon for the next 10 minutes and we started moving again. He continued preaching for a further 10 minutes while we made our way towards the outskirts of Lusaka before taking up a collection and obtaining prayer requests from those leaving their mobile numbers!

A girl called Carol was sitting beside me. She was visiting an uncle in Livingstone. It made a change to have a bit of conversation on the journey.

The roads are again deteriorating and the combination of potholes and wicked road humps made the 2 ½ hour journey take 4 hours. At Kafue an immigration officer asked for my passport – only the second time in all my visits. Perhaps I need to carry my passport more often this year.

Raymond was waiting at Golden Pillow – the stop for big buses in Monze during daylight hours. (It is some years since I have arrived in Monze before sunset!)                Lusaka

Raymond had the taxi organised and Fr. Clement arrived with keys to let me into my house. I have built a good relationship with the Catholic Church in Monze over many years. In particular I have formed a link between Our Lady of the Wayside in Monze and our church of St. Gregory in Cheltenham. Our Lady of the Wayside was made into a parish in 2013 and Fr. Clement is the first parish priest. I have found that many of the priests enjoy a game of pool and there is fierce rivalry on the table between us! Fr. Clement has taken to the pool scene since he met me and now also plays a mean game.

I ate a meal with Raymond at Tooters and enjoyed a Mosi. (I wasn't quite sure by this time whether it was breakfast, lunch or supper!)

It was time to turn in and try to give my body some well needed sleep.

Chris

                                                   Kenneth Kaunda Airport, Lusaka

Waiting for Take-off

10^th May

Yes the adventure has begun!

I am seated in the departure lounge at Heathrow Airport after a uneventful trip from Cheltenham. My laptop did fall off the luggage rack on the coach. The driver announced 5 mins from Heathrow that we were due to arrive in an hour and five minutes then immediately tried to crash into the back of a lorry – hard braking just avoided a collision. The only other incident was dropping my Mars bar at security!!

I decided to take a coach to Heathrow bus station instead of booking to terminal 4. (Dilys has a broken toe so isn't up to driving.) This proved to be a good move. I re-sorted my bags at the bus station where I picked up a trolley – moving pavements made the journey to the train easy and a free shuttle took me to terminal 4 without hassle, and probably a lot quicker than if I waited for another coach to transfer me.

John donated a couple of notebooks and lent me a larger case, which I had no problem filling. I am just about on the limit of 2x23kg cases and backpack and laptop weighing close to the 12kg limit! It's not that I have a lot of clothes for my trip – in fact most of the clothes are donations for friends. I have a few footballs, a solar mobile phone charger, a few solar lights, what seems to be a hundred small knitted hats for the children, knitted blankets, a good quantity of clove oil and of course a few bars of Jennipher's favourite soap! I also have plenty of books to read and leave with avid Zambian readers.

After all the rushing around over the past few days it is good to wind down a little. After all there is nothing I can do now. If I have forgotten something it is too late.

Raymond rang yesterday to tell me to call him when I am in Lusaka and he will meet me in Monze with the key to my house. I doubt if I will have time to tell you Raymond's story here before boarding my flight, but I might try a very short précis. Raymond also mentioned that another of his clients has just died – he will be the third in the past couple of weeks.

I met Raymond at the end of my stay in 2003, but it was in 2004 that we came to know each other better. Raymond attends the Catholic Church and is involved with an organisation – The Society of St. Vincent de Paul – which supports those who are poor worldwide. He is also involved in another organisation PEASSA which is not connected to the church. With Charles he has been trying to support some elderly and disabled people in Monze. PEASSA has always struggled and at the moment all the projects, which were designed to generate income have folded or are dormant.

Raymond over the past few years has run around Monze trying to find me accommodation for which I am grateful.

I will let you know how I find Monze – and my accommodation!! With my next blog posting.

Best wishes,

Chris

Best

8^th May 2016

 Best with his car

Doesn't time fly!

48 hours and I will be in the air heading once again for Africa.

Today Jennipher sent a text wishing Dilys a happy Mother's Day.

Best rang yesterday because he needs to pay for his final Semester which should result in a licence to practice as a solicitor. (Best was a secondary school student when I first met him – at least ten years ago. Our church – St. Gregory's, Cheltenham – has for many years been collecting money in old film cans and sending the proceeds to pay the secondary school fees of children in the parish. Best was one of the beneficiaries of this money. I met Best at the church and he kept in touch. On finishing his secondary education he wanted to follow a career in law. A few of our parishioners paid for him to start studying for a Certificate in Law in Namibia where it was a bit cheaper. He returned to Zambia and was determined to pursue a degree course – reduced in length thanks to his certificate. He started, having saved money from work he had done, supplemented by some donor funds! After a while he asked if we could help him buy a car, 

Best in gown inside his house

which he would use as a taxi to fund the rest of his studies. Best is a very determined individual and will not be put off!! He also works hard to cover as much of his costs as possible. Needless to say he got his car! This helped him to complete his degree course – though of course the full story is much more complicated!!

For the past couple of years Best has been providing some legal services – through his own small company which he established. However for a variety of reasons he has had difficulty in making it a highly profitable business. He has built a small house and supports his aunt and cousins as well as he can, but believes that he needs to take further exams and gain his licence, in order to make a good living. This final step he embarked on at the beginning of this year.

It has been a privilege getting to know Best over the years. He brought Dilys and Amy to meet his family in 2011 and they put on a feast for us. Last year he showed me his family land where he is building. In July (unfortunately just after I leave – unless a volcanic eruption or the like delays me) Best is getting married. I will no doubt meet his future wife on this visit.

                                                               The house Best built

Apologies for this brief report, but its late and I have plenty to do before setting off on Tuesday. The blogs should start coming thick and fast – internet access permitting!!

With love and prayers,

Chris