Always plenty to do

Tuesday 24th March

It seems like no time at all since I was in Africa. My life these days is very much tied up with the people of Zambia, whether I am physically there or sitting at home in England. I used to think that hardly a week went by without some communication with friends in Monze or other parts of Zambia. Nowadays I seem to be in touch most days.

Today I spoke with Fr. Raphael the priest in charge at Our Lady of the Wayside church in Monze. Our church in Cheltenham St. Gregory's, together with St. Thomas More has adopted Our Lady of the Wayside as their parish project. Although we have been developing links over a number of years the formal parish endorsement gives us an impetus to do a bit more. Some of the youth washed parishioners cars and, together with other donations, £470 has been raised to repair the roof of the church in Monze. (I have experienced the need to be very selective about where you sit in the church during the rainy season!) We have also been busy raising money for education and intend to develop a close dialogue over the next few months.

I have continued to be involved with the Hands Around the World projects in Zambia. In January new students started school at PIZZ in Monze and at the training centre in Chisamba. A Global Giving challenge promoted by Hands Around the World raised more than £2,000 for PIZZ school which will make a huge difference, helping with the provision of extra books and desks and allowing work to be done to enable the school to be used as an examination centre – reducing future costs and making the process easier for the students. We are also putting forward a proposal for Kaliyangile in Chisamba which, if successful, should move the project much closer to long term sustainability.

The rain in Zambia was patchy this year and there are mixed reports in terms of the success of the maize crop. Jennipher has acquired maize seed and fertiliser for her support group from an NGO. (More than £4,000 of products – all she needed was £150 for the transport!) This should enable them to grow some food next year and will make a great difference. Jennipher's health hasn't been too good and she has needed extra medication. She is also concerned that one of her young children is not getting adequate nourishment. She is hoping to improve his diet during the coming months.

Luke is now married and Best is planning to return to Zambia from Namibia next month.

There has been a lot of other things happening, but for now I will leave things in Zambia at that.

This, my 10th trip, will be busy. (Not that I have been twiddling my thumbs on other visits!) I already have a mounting list of tasks to attend to, and this time I will not be totally alone. In August my granddaughter Amy, who will just be 15 years old, will come out to join me with Dilys. Dilys already has a lot of friends in Monze and I am sure that Amy will make very many in the couple of weeks she will be there. (She is certainly likely to be the centre of attraction) David, from HATW, is also coming out at the end of June beginning of July. I will be busy preparing for these visits as well as spending time with them while they are with me. I expect time to pass particularly quickly on this visit.

I will keep you posted occasionally on the preparations during the next few weeks and then have more than enough to report when I arrive back in Africa – volcanoes permitting!!

As always, with love and prayers

Chris

Still very much in touch

Monday 7th February

The rains have been inconsistent and patchy this year!

I am not talking about the English winter but the rainy season in Zambia. It struck me yesterday that just because I am in England, it doesn't mean that I am no longer in touch with happenings back in Zambia. In fact I am still very much involved with my friends and their projects.

Less than 8 years ago when I first visited Zambia in 2003, there were no mobile phones and no Internet. Yesterday I spoke to Mrs. Sianga in Monze over the Internet and we could see each other using inexpensive webcams. I usually expect to have contact with Zambia during most weeks – at the moment it seems to be most days and sometimes several times in a day. So perhaps it is appropriate to provide the occasional update through my blog while I am awaiting my next visit.

For two or three weeks after I left Zambia very little rain fell, then there was heavy rain - at least once a day - and it has continued, with the growing risk of major flooding. Some people have already had to be moved out of houses in Lusaka. The crops are surviving at the moment, but there are fears that they will be damaged unless the rains reduce.

PIZZ school opened in January. A number of students passed their grade 9 exams and are hoping to find sponsorship to complete their secondary education. HATW has added PIZZ to the Global Giving website so that additional, much needed, sponsorship can be obtained. (You can find the project at http://www.globalgiving.org/projects/supporting-orphaned-children-in-monze-zambia/ )

Kaliyangile has opened for another term with additional students. Finances continue to be a big problem. The new workshop now has a roof which should ensure that the building doesn't get damaged by the rains. A couple of days ago I received an e-mail with the latest update from the project. Two of the tailoring students have been doing a little business in their own time. Both have young families to support and hope to buy their own machines. These young women have shown great initiative and are very thankful for the opportunity given them by the project, one has now been able to return to school, paying her own fees. It is these individual stories of lives changed that makes it a privilege for me to be involved.

Jennipher rang me a couple of weeks ago from Chipata, which is in the East of Zambia, 550 km from Lusaka. She was attending another family funeral - for one of Soloman's sisters who had been working as a teacher. Soloman has lost many family members over the past few years – including both his mother and grandmother. I cannot imagine how I would cope with such enormous loss.

Thursday 10th February

I returned from Liverpool yesterday evening. I needed to deliver the baskets and bags from the Buntola project. Jim and Jean sell the goods in the UK and recover their costs. For the past couple of years this has enabled us to provide a market for a significant amount of the project's output.

Jim was involved in a HATW project in Monze a few years ago and he lives in Bolton. We met at Crosby and, after a pleasant meal, wandered along the beach to see Antony Gormley's sculpture, “Another Place” on Crosby beach, which comprises 100 larger than life models of a man looking out to sea. We left as the sun was setting and we joined the sculptures gazing out to sea, thinking about distant lands.

I always enjoy an excuse to visit Liverpool. My mother was Liverpudlian and I have a strong attraction to the people who live there. As a young child I spent 6 months in Liverpool when my mother was very ill with rheumatic fever. I lived with my uncle, aunt and cousins in the house where my mother was born. After leaving Jean and Jim I made my way to my cousin Vera's house where I stayed the night.

I have now acquired another laptop so that I can continue to support the projects where I am using ACCESS databases. A few days ago I spoke to Vincent who works for the Monze Diocesan Projects Team. I am developing a database with him. The team are involved with about 60 communities (a total of more than 2,300 households). Information about each household has been collected, including details about income, food and assets – hoes, axes, livestock etc. Moving the data from spreadsheets to a database makes it much easier to analyse the information. So it seems that one in two families have a radio and, on average, each has 8 chickens, the average household monthly income is just over £100 but 11% live on less than £13, the average household size is 7 people and more than a third have 8 or more in the household. The information is used to monitor changes, as support is provided. However raw statics need always to contain a very bold WARNING. It is only people who are aware of the realities that are capable of proper interpretation – the database is no more than a tool for manipulating the data. So for instance, without further analysis, I don't know whether most people have chickens, or whether those with cattle don't have chickens; I don't know whether people exchange crops and livestock and whether these transactions appear as income etc. However for Vincent and the team the database should make it much easier to make sense of the information obtained.

I haven't heard from Diven since I returned to the UK. This worries me because I would have expected a call by now. He usually keeps in touch. I have tried to ring him on several occasions and have failed. Last week I asked Teddy to try and make contact.

I am planning to make a visit to Jack Scarisbrick the Chairman and founder of LIFE (UK) in about 2 weeks time to discuss the proposed establishment of LIFE Zambia.

As you can see, my live here in the UK still revolves, to a large extent, around my activity in Zambia. There is always plenty to do to support my many friends out there.

In many ways I found my last visit to Zambia one of the most difficult. The closer I get to the people the more I realise the difficulties they face and the extent of the support needed. It is clear that I can only do a little myself, there are generous people around me – and it would be unusual for a week to pass without someone giving me money for one project or another – but there will always be a gap, which I find difficult. Somehow it is meant to be that way. We dream of hitting the jackpot and being able to fund everything and save the world – but for some reason we are not meant to join the ranks of the super rich. Maybe we are just looking at the the raw data. We need to look deeper to discover what really makes us super rich!

Best wishes

Chris

An incredible Week

Wednesday 22nd December

I arrived back in England yesterday evening!

On Sunday 12th December I wrote “ the Lord is waiting for me to let him get on with his work and stop trying to run his show! So I intend to step back and marvel at what he has in store!”

St. Paul, who was an ancient blogger, wrote what I think is the most beautiful prayer when writing to the Ephesians. He includes these words “ ...To him who by means of his power working in us is able to do so much more than we can ever ask for, or even think of ...” (Ephesians Chapter 3) Well sometimes I think I know what he means – the past week has certainly exceeded all my expectations!

A lot has happened since I posted my last blog on Monday 13th !

Tuesday was my last day in Monze. The power went off at about 9 hrs and wouldn't return until about 19 hrs. I used what battery power was left in the laptop to do some more work on the Diocese projects database.

I wanted to go around the hospital to check whether my photos had arrived from Dilys and to say goodbye to friends. I had checked out Sr. Juunza's laptop and wanted to give her my verdict and also thought I might grab some power from the hospital generator to add a little juice to the laptop. So I arrived at a little before midday with these tasks in mind. Teddy had said he would get someone to drop around some Office disks which I needed to sort out Sr. Juunza's computer - however they hadn't arrived. So I set off with a hospital driver to Teddy's house while the laptop was on charge. When I arrived back an hour later the generator was off and the laptop was 26% charged!

I called on Ireen and I was pleasantly surprised to find that my chitenge clothes were ready. Still having no generator I said a couple of goodbyes and left the laptop with Judy who offered to switch it on and off to take any advantage of available electricity.

After a bite to eat I returned to the hospital. Still no power, so I retrieved my laptops, left Sr. Juunza's at my flat and headed to PIZZ 'Old School' to meet Mrs. Sianga and one of the teachers. She was waiting with her daughter and the teacher soon arrived. The intention was to due some quick training of the accounts system, the Internet and taking and transferring photos. The power was still missing.

Although the laptop had only another 10 – 15 mins connected to the electricity, somehow the battery was now nearly 90% charged. (Still I do seem to be getting a bit of a hand at the moment.) I must have spent nearly 2 hours demonstrating the attributes of the laptop without it shutting down. Having three people involved would, I hope, enable them to help each other use the computer and remember how things were done. I will see how they get on. I was sad that we didn't set up a web link while I was in Monze. I will try to rectify that soon after Christmas.

I call around to Diven's shop which is close to the school and asked him to give me an hour or so to work on the other laptop before meeting me for a final meal and a chat. Fortunately the power came on and I was able to sort Sr. Juunza's laptop back at the flat.

At about 9.30 pm. I returned having had a pleasant meal with Diven (and a couple of Mozi's). I did the final packing and turned in for my final night in Monze.

I was up before 6 hrs on the Wednesday and at 6.10 Simon knocked on my door to deliver a Christmas card from St. Veronica's Small Christian Community. He had called the previous evening only to find me out. I failed to find any hospital transport so was planning to catch the first Mazundu bus – Mazundu is one of the large coach operators and is happy to carry multiple cases!

I walked along to the cathedral with Simon where mass was to be celebrated. After mass, I exchanged the laptop with Sr. Juunza, for the 5 bags that Bridget had sent to make up my consignment for the UK.

As arranged, I phoned the man from Mazundu at 7 am and booked my place on the 9 hrs bus. He asked me how many tickets I needed and told me to be at the Golden Pillow by 8 hrs.

At about 7.45 am Reymond came along to say goodbye and a little after 8 hrs I said my final farewells and, having acquired a taxi, left the flat for the last time this year – well almost!

When I arrived at the Golden Pillow I was told that, despite apparently booking my seat on the first coach, the bus was full and I would have to wait until the 10.30 bus. So I bought a ticket and settled down to wait for the bus. I wanted something from my case, so I reached in my pocket for the key to the small padlock only to find it missing. I had put the padlock keys together on my keyring that also held my UK front door key and the flash drive, that now held all the work I had undertaking since arriving in Zambia 6 weeks earlier. The flash drive was most important – the locks I could break and the front door key could be replaced. I rang Sr. Barbara and she offered to search for the keys in my flat. A few minutes later I was given the welcome news that the keys had been found – though they had no one available to bring them. Fortunately I now had plenty of time and could therefore get a taxi to take me back to the flat where I picked up my keys and returned to wait for the 10.30 bus.

By 11 hrs I was on my way to Lusaka. Justina met me in Lusaka and took me to her house, where I had a snack before getting a bus to Longacres and the Central Immigration Office. Strangely the usual nerves I feel at immigration weren't present. (My experience in 2004 still haunts me!) The process at Immigration is a mystery to me. On enquiring I was told to go into the first office and see Mrs. Birt. She checked and established that my permit was still being processed. She asked if I had sorted something – and because I wasn't aware of having sorted anything, I said no! I was directed to another desk and told to see the immigration officer there.

The practice seems to be to ignore anyone who approaches your desk and to get on with dealing with other clients and miscellaneous files. Then suddenly a hand goes out and you realise that you have been in a very orderly queue and it is your turn to hand over some documents. So I passed over my receipt and passport. The immigration officer seemed human! He joked with others and did some things on a computer. Then a printer jumped into life and another guy handed me a couple of pieces of paper and told me to sign them, while the officer put a few stamps on my passport. I noticed that the forms I was signing had my name on and said something about reporting to immigration within 30 days. I was given one copy of the form I had signed - the other being held at immigration.

I asked whether I should return tomorrow to check on my permit and was told tomorrow it would be too busy, perhaps I could come back next week! I then pointed out that I was leaving the country on Saturday. No problem I was told, I could collect the permit when I returned. They would let me back into the country with the documents. By the way I should guard the form jealously.

Justina told me that I could walk from Longacres to her house and something about robots. So I decided to relax and enjoy winding down before my return home. I asked the way to UTH (University Teaching Hospital) and was directed in the opposite way to that which I expected - I have mentioned my sense of direction – or lack of it! After a while I asked for further clarification and found I was on the correct route – just keep going straight until you get to the robots and turn right. OK no problem, but I wonder what these robots look like! After a couple of miles I had been travelling some distance in the same direction along the road I came to Longacres along – surely this isn't correct! So I asked again – and sure enough, I was directed back in the direction I had just come from. Up to the robots and turn left! I had obviously walked straight past the robots! (observation isn't one of my strong points either!)

A little way back on my return journey I met the policeman who directed me half an hour earlier! “I told you to turn at the robots!” After a mile or so I came across some traffic lights and the penny dropped! I have always said that Zambian English is different to British English and that extra words and different meanings are introduced in a living language, which English is in Zambia – this is an example of Zambian English. Soon after the robots I reached UTH and, having been taken past UTH by Justina earlier, I was able to trace my footsteps back to her house. I was grateful for a decent walk and was back at a suitable hour.

We took the opportunity to discuss the setting up of LIFE Zambia and agreed our respective tasks in moving things forward.

I was given a nice meal of local food and a comfortable bed for the night. In the morning Justina's husband Peter drove me to a point on the Great North Road where I could catch a bus to Chisamba.

At the crossroads I was offered a taxi, but decided to hang on for a full taxi that would cost ¼ of the price. After a few minutes it was full (I your personal space is important to you don't travel by local transport in Zambia! - with four of us in the back of the taxi it was certainly cosy!). In another 20 minutes and I was back at Chisamba Guest house. Justine had just arrived to organise a room. My usual room was taken – he apologised but another was soon found. After catching up on the latest happenings, we contacted Godfrey and arranged to meet at Fringilla for a drink and a chat.

I had a couple of hours spare, so, after saying hallo and goodbye to some of the staff and students at Kaliyangile, I went for a walk and found a quite spot and a tree to have my picnic. The swallows have continued to accompany me, and both at kaliyangile and on my walk they were ever present.

I wanted the opportunity to stress the importance of finding a replacement for Justine – someone who is foremost a competent manager - to complete the process of registering the project and to quickly erect the roof of the workshop. We discussed these issues and others and by the time we left the sun was setting.

I had supper at the Guest House and decided to have a final Mosi or two. Since I met a friend in the bar just as I was leaving, I had to accept a third!

On Thursday I wanted to get off early – or at least just after I had printed my boarding pass for Saturday's flight. Justine offered me a lift at 10 hrs at which time he had re-arranged a trip to take his sister to Lusaka – so I wouldn't need taxis and buses. He had also arranged for the committee to go to the police station to have their fingerprints taken, which gave me some concern in terms of timing!

I had looked more carefully at the form given to me yesterday at immigration. It did say I had to report to immigration within 30 days or I would be classed as a prohibited immigrant. Since in 2004 I was so designated, and told I had to leave the country immediately or I would be thrown into prison, I had decided to return on the Friday to immigration to check the position – and see if any progress had been made on my permit. I told Justine that I needed to be at immigration by 12 hrs – before it shut for lunch.


Thursday 23rd December

I timed out last night. I will try complete my post now!

I was heading for the computer when Justine told me that power was off and the laptop battery wouldn't last long!

I have found that checking in online saves a lot of hassle at the airport – especially if you are the only economy class passenger who believes he is entitled to 3 x 23kg bags! It looked as if I would have a challenge. I decided to try to access the BA website and hope power returned in time to print the boarding pass! I was about to access my booking when the laptop went into standby mode.

Power then returned for a couple of minutes and went off again. This process repeated a couple of times without being able to make progress. I tried once more but the power again went off quickly. I decided to continue and see how far I could go – somehow I got into my booking and managed to choose my seat, check in my bags and save my boarding pass with a flat battery! When the power returned I was able to print my boarding pass – mainly in black and white, as even the borrowed colour cartridge was a bit light on ink.

At about 12.30 Justine returned and at 13 hrs we were on our way to Lusaka. I decided to head straight for Immigration and arrived just after they opened for the afternoon at 14.30. Today the process was to check progress of my employment permit in a register – not surprisingly my permit was still somewhere in the system. I found the immigration officer who assured me that I didn't need to come back or get more stamps and that I wouldn't be locked up!

So, content, I decided to enjoy a stroll back to Justina's to retrieve my bags. I thought that I would take a short cut because there was a road that had to bisect the road I used on Wednesday. It is a mystery to me how you can head in one direction and end up going somewhere entirely different. Well, I seem to be able to achieve this feat without any effort – as was the case on this occasion. I passed many of the embassies and a few other impressive buildings before asking someone to help me out. I had plenty of exercise before I spotted the welcome lights of the robots! It was then easy to find my destination.

While I was enjoying a drink with Justina, Peter popped around and organised a taxi which would take me to Lwisha House.

There is something very comforting about arriving at Lwisha House. It is familiar and I know most of the priests living there. I can relax in the lounge with a paper or magazine and help myself to cups of tea and coffee. I have noticed that the priests always seem very calm and take a great interest in the activities of each other. They share their experiences of the day and include me in their discussions.

The supper is plentiful and is a mixture of Zambian and Western foods. There is also a pudding – such as fruit salad and ice cream - which is something I haven't had for the past few weeks.

I joined the congregation for evening prayer, booked my taxi, had a hot shower and settled for my last night this year in Zambia.

A little after 5 hrs. I arose and sorted myself out for the trip to the airport. The taxi arrived a bit before 6 hrs. so I didn't manage a cup of tea before we left.

The taxi driver was one who was used often by the priests at Lwisha House and had taken me to the airport on previous occasions. Checking in went smoothly and I joined the queue to pass through immigration – or perhaps emigration! On previous occasions there has been a queue of 3 or 4 people at each counter – today there was a queue that stretched all the way around the large room and out to the check-in desks. Cameras had been introduced and machines to take fingerprints. Each person had to have their photo taken and fingerprints from both hands – including the thumbs (taken separately). A guy next to me had a plane to catch in 30 minutes – he was still queuing nearly an hour later! It was over an hour before I reached the departure lounge and found out my plane hadn't yet arrived from the UK. The other passengers had been assured that their planes wouldn't leave without them.

I often think that most of the security measures are designed to convince the travelling public that their safety is being taken care of. In practice I suspect that it causes great inconvenience but has very limited value. (For instance I wonder what systems Zambia has to check the pictures and fingerprints against suitable databases?)

We boarded the plane a couple of hours behind schedule. Apparently snow and ice at Heathrow had delayed the planes departure and hence the reason we were also running late. It was good to be in the air and on my way back home to the family. Dilys had rang a couple of days earlier to say that the snow and ice around Cheltenham was bad and she was worried about driving. I had told her I would make my own way once I arrived at Heathrow – either by coach or train depending what was running.

Next to me on the plane was a lady who was working for an Irish NGO. Although she had only spent three weeks in the Country, she seemed to have a very similar view to me about the role we have in Zambia. We spent some time discussing our experiences and other matters and the time passed swiftly. I had a good view of the desert and kept an eye on our route. It appeared to me that we were heading slightly further west than usual and at one point I thought we must be going up through Spain. We adjusted our direction and again headed due north and I guessed we would just miss Spain passing it to the east!

In the book Landmarks Margaret Silf refers to our inner compass and our journey to god being a heading of true north. The UK is almost due north of Zambia, so for the journey back home the plane continues for very nearly 5,000 miles in a northerly direction with the sun shining, for most of the trip, through my window on my left. Once again I am reminded of my need to try to make the Lord my focus and allow him to lead. Despite my experiences I find it difficult to relax and trust that all will be well.

We were leaving the coast of Africa at about 5 pm GMT (19 hrs Zambian time) when the captain announced that unfortunately Heathrow had been closed. In addition no other UK airport could let us land. Since we couldn't continue to fly for many more hours we would have to land. It had therefore been arranged for us to divert to Barcelona in Spain! So at about 6.30 pm GMT, (19.30 local time or 20.30 Zambian Time!) we landed at Barcelona. We were given sandwiches while we waited for arrangements to be made for the next stage. It was clear that we would not be moving any further that night and that we would probably be taken to a local hotel.

Within an hour we disembarked. Most of us were soon through immigration, but those without EU passports and the appropriate visa, were not allowed to proceed. Unfortunately Britain is still separate from the rest of Europe in many ways, so a visa for the UK doesn't automatically allow you into other European countries – unlike that which allows you into France, Germany, Spain etc. I remember arriving in Nairobi and the flight being cancelled. I was immediately issued a temporary visa. (unfortunately for many of the Zambian passengers the process in Spain is different).

I headed to the baggage reclaim, where I was reunited with my three large suitcases ( I wasn't convinced this was really my greatest desire!). I had picked up a couple of bottles at Lusaka, so my hand luggage was also heavy. We were escorted through the airport and soon found ourselves outside waiting for buses to take us to the hotel. Two buses arrived – which was fine in terms of passenger numbers, but they couldn't cope with the luggage. About an hour later a third bus arrived. (We had by this time been taken to a cafeteria and provided with a snack and hot drink.) We were taken from the airport towards the city centre and deposited in a rather nice 4/5* hotel.

I didn't get the message that a meal was being laid on, so I had a small bottle of wine and a Kit Kat from the minibar before turning in. It had been a long day and I was ready for bed.

The Sunday arrived and I woke myself up with a luxurious shower and tuned into BBC World to get the latest on the weather in London. As I opened the door at 8.15, heading for breakfast, I noticed a sheet of paper that informed me that I would be picked up from the hotel at 8.45. So it was a rushed breakfast, but as I headed to retrieve my bags, I received another message. The schedule had been revised. We would now leave at 1 pm.

I decided to use the opportunity to go to mass and obtained a map from reception. Mass turned out to be at 10 am, so I found the beach and, although is was drizzling a little, had a pleasant walk along the seafront and rang Dilys to tell of the difficulties I was experiencing! During mass I was almost overcome by the closeness of the Lord and the way in which I was being looked after. There were so many possibilities that would have made my trip back a nightmare. In fact I couldn't have dreamt of such an incredible outcome.

After mass the sun was shining brightly and its rays warmed me both physically and mentally. I returned to the hotel and was told it was unlikely that we would be picked up before 4 pm. I headed into the city centre. Gaudé's unfinished cathedral was a 20 – 30 minute walk away so I strode out in that direction. I had never been to Barcelona before, in fact I have only made one visit before to mainland Spain and that was 40 years ago! I didn't think I had time to enter the cathedral – and when I saw the huge queue I wasn't sure I wanted to bother. So I contented myself with viewing it from the outside – which was impressive enough. I had intended to return to the hotel for 12.30 in case they reverted to that time, but decided it was a shame, now that I was very close to the city centre. I found the phone number of the hotel on the map and checked the latest position. We definitely wouldn't leave before 4 pm. so I had some more time to explore. I used the map to pass by the Arc de Triomf, Palau de la Musica and the original cathedral designed by Gaudé. I was delighted to see that there was no charge to enter this cathedral (I am never happy to have to pay to enter a church). Mass was being celebrated so I went to the Blessed Sacrament chapel and said a quite prayer of thanksgiving.

I returned to the hotel via the Parc de la Cuitadella, where there are attractive gardens, small lakes and fountains, and a zoological garden. On arriving at the hotel at 14.30 I was told that I could relax because I wouldn't be going anywhere on Sunday, and would be provided with lunch and supper, and another night in my luxurious room.

After a light meal (they seem to be into nouveau cuisine at the hotel!) I had a brief rest before once again heading for the sea. I love the sea! I am never bored walking along the shore. The sound and sight of the waves crashing onto the sand and the smell of seaweed, I find stimulating. Eventually I settled at the end of a small pier and watched as the sun set over the town. A photographer took a few photos of the sunset and left. I stayed a while longer and was treated to one of the best sunsets I have ever seen. Sunsets in Jamaica, Lanzarote, parts of the UK and of course Africa can be wonderful – so this was really special. The colours were spectacular and the buildings cast dark shapes on the skyline. The beach is bordered by a row of palm trees which again added an interesting texture to the scene.

I could see my hotel from the beach standing nearly 30 stories high and towering above the nearby buildings. I returned to a buffet supper and found the wine! I could get used to this!

There was no further news about our departure and I was settling for at least another day at the hotel! Another day would be good - more would not be ideal!

On Monday morning there was no note under my door, so I was able to enjoy a leisurely breakfast. I enquired at reception and was told we would leave the hotel at 3 pm. This time there was a bit of conviction behind the message. I met one of the BA crew in the lift and she seemed convinced we would fly today. Heathrow was now open once more.

Although I am sure there was much more to explore in the city, I needed a bit of peace and a time for reflection. Although I am used to visiting Zambia now, that doesn't stop me being sensitive to what I see. In fact, because of a better understanding and closer relationship with the people, perhaps the impact is even greater. So as I return I don't want to rush around doing things. The sea was again where I headed. I wanted a longer walk and on Sunday spotted some interesting structures in the distance along the seashore. I decided to head towards these. In fact I went beyond and found a small port and marina where I sat and read a further few pages of Landmarks, while watching the cormorants perched on nearby pillars.

On returning to the hotel the message had not changed. Lunch wasn't provided and I couldn't afford the hotel prices, so I headed out in search of a cafe. I eventually found such an establishment. I enjoyed a seafood salad with a cervesa and finished with a splendid cafe con leché!

We collected our bags and lined up outside the hotel, waiting for the buses to take us to the airport for the 6.25pm. flight. Then at about 3 pm. people starting moving back inside the hotel. A last minute change of plan meant that we would be collected at 16.30 – the plane would still go at 6.15pm and we would be 'fast-tracked' through the airport check-in. To show their commitment we would not return to our rooms, but the bags would be stored in the basement – lunch would now be provided. Well, I had only had a light salad, I guessed what the lunch would be like and suspected that the next decent meal might be some time away, so I took advantage of another free meal!

We retrieved our bags and soon after 16.30 two large coaches arrived and we embarked. We were now a slightly smaller group, as some had made alternative arrangements to get home. I had not seen Wendy, who sat next to me on the way out, since Sunday morning. She was on her way to Edinburgh and was hoping to get a direct flight from Barcelona (Edinburgh was open) – it looks as if she succeeded.

Once we found the correct terminal we piled into the lifts up to departures. I wasn't quite sure where I was and what I was doing so forgot that at airports they have trolleys which make carrying large amounts of luggage easier! I arrived in the queue for check in still struggling with my three cases and backpack! I told myself it was good practice for the other end! While waiting, I did grab a trolley to enable me to rest a little. We were surprised that we were all directed to a single check in desk, but soon four adjacent desks were closed - except for our group - and we moved through rapidly. I had picked up a couple of bottles of Amarula in Lusaka and made sure they were in appropriate transparent bags, sealed and with the invoice within. However I didn't think of moving them to a case – in a way it didn't seem right. The security guard at Barcelona Airport wanted to confiscate them because the date on the receipt wasn't the date of travel! I explained that it would have been if it wasn't for the diversion. (I could have shown him my boarding pass – just issued with the date of the 18th December on it!) In the event his superior told him to let me keep the bottles.

We were issued with our former seats and when we arrived at the departure gate we were immediately loaded into buses and taken to where the plane had parked on Saturday and shown back to our seats. Additional passengers joined us and by about 7.30 pm. we were all aboard and ready for take-off. The captain welcomed us back and told us the good news – we had a definite slot. The bad news was that it was for 10.30 pm! - though it might be brought forward. In the event we were reallocated a slot at 10.20 pm! I had a couple of Gin and Tonics courtesy of BA while I waited for take-off.

It was a relief to get back into the air, and a greater relief when we touched down safely at Heathrow at about 11.30 pm. local time (GMT). We gave the captain a respectful applause in appreciation!

I had some slight concerns about my allowances, but then decided that since I was now on a flight from an EU country the more restrictive allowances now longer applied. As in other recent trips there was no evidence of customs officers as we passed through.

I had been in touch with Dilys and Helen and concluded that attempting a trip to Cheltenham would not be sensible – by the time I arrived there was no option but to spend a night in London.

There were some problems with the baggage reclaim, but I was grateful to be back in the UK and still considered myself very fortunate. So many people were stuck at airports without any beds or food provided. At Heathrow there were vast piles of luggage taken from cancelled flights – how anyone was expected to find their luggage I am not sure. So the fact that it was 2 am before we were out of the airport wasn't too much of a problem. I had spent a couple of days in a beautiful hotel in a lovely city, where many would be delighted to pay handsomely for the privilege.

I was concerned that I wouldn't be allowed on the night bus with all my luggage, but with an effort I carried everything into the bus and stored it for the trip to Hyde Park Corner without being challenged. With help, I got everything off the bus and again was helped to get a taxi to my daughter Helen's house. Jack was a little surprised to see me at 4 am. But greeted me with “Silly Gaggy” - the children today have no respect! In fact it is a wonderful privilege to have such a close relationship with my grandchildren and I would have it no other way. Jack wasn't very well and had woken Helen at 2.30 am, but he still gave me a warm welcome.

After a few hours sleep and some playtime with my grandchildren, I left for Victoria Bus station with a light backpack – the rest of my luggage I decided to leave with Helen. The trip back was remarkably quick and incident free. At 6 pm I was back home in Cheltenham 3 days and 14 hours after leaving Lwisha House for Lusaka airport!

It was good to be at home at last. I was tired, but grateful that I had been looked after so well during the past week. I feel so sorry for the very many who weren't so fortunate.

The weather in the UK has been exceptional. The most snow in 30 years and the coldest December in 100 years. At Heathrow airport 6 inches of snow (15 cm) fell in an hour. In Cheltenham on Sunday, 12 inches fell (30 cm) and temperatures dropped below -10°C. Nearby temperatures dropped to – 19°C. For the past three weeks temperatures have rarely risen above freezing.

I haven't yet done anything towards Christmas – so please accept my apologies and allow me to wish you a wonderful, peaceful, happy and holy Christmas and a New Year filled with joy.

I will post another blog in a week or so reflecting on my trip, but for now I will sign off with my love and prayers, take care,

Chris

P.S. The photos are a selection of African images and not necessarily directly related to the text since the camera wasn't present during much of this posting.

Time Flies and Power goes

Monday 13th December

Time is running away. It is 22hrs and time I should be asleep, but since this might be my last opportunity to post a blog in Zambia this year, I will put down a few words.

Now that I have handed over control, life has become more fun! Yesterday before mass I was grabbed by the Secretary of the Parish council at Our Lady of the Wayside church and brought to meet the chairman, who asked me to join them at a meeting after mass.

Before the mass, and during it, I was told just how much the people wanted to express thanks to the people at St. Gregory's church in Cheltenham for providing funds which were used to purchase maize seed for some of the poorest families at the church. The parishioners showed their gratitude with a round of applause.

After mass the maize was distributed to representatives from the 11 small Christian communities – each community provided names of two families each of whom will receive a 5 kg bag of maize seed.

After mass I grabbed a quick bite and headed to St. Veronica's 'section meeting'. We looked at the gospel for next week where the theme of joy was picked up. It was Elizabeth's first meeting with Jesus – though he was still in the womb at the time. I was reminded that God resides in all of us – it is in recognising the God in the other person that brings forth joy. Here in Zambia I have no problem in seeing God in the people I meet – and so often a smile is confirmation.

After mass a few of our group visited two people who were sick. The first was a lady who had been burnt and the second was a man who had lost most of his sight. We stayed for a while, sang and prayed a little with them. People talked about their difficulties and offered their sympathy and support before moving on.

It was well after 5pm before I reached home, having been out almost the whole time since 9.30 am.

I rang Teddy and invited him around. At about 6.15 pm I looked at my phone to find several missed calls and text messages. Teddy had come immediately and gave up when I didn't respond to his knocks or phone calls from outside my door! I must be going deaf!! He came back and collected a few computer bits and pieces that I had brought with me or borrowed from him.

At 7pm I was due for supper at the priest's house. Fr. Kenan and myself were joined by Frs. Raphael and Canasius for nshima and sausages.

After supper I joined Fr. Raphael, and Fr. Kenan drove us to Nzango – a bar just beyond the railway lines. It was a good chance to get to know Fr. Raphael, who is now the main contact for Our Lady of the Wayside.

So, without me doing anything, my concerns about setting up meetings in connection with Our Lady of the Wayside have been more than allayed.

This morning I was busy working on the computer in the development office when the power was switched off. The supply which went off at 10 am was restored at 19 hrs! Apparently this was a planned outage by Zesco , the electricity provider, for maintenance. Tomorrow I am told will be a repeat! I was worried that I wouldn't have time to say goodbye this visit. I think the Lord has just supplied me with a few extra hours!!

I did have the chance to show Mrs Sianga the computer and camera that I will leave with her. I was proudly about to demonstrate how cleverly I had constructed her accounts system, but all we got were error messages. I had earlier tried to bypass small problems with the ACCESS software with disastrous results. I needed to be humbled – and I was!! I would have showed her how to access the Internet, if the connection had stayed for more than a few seconds!

However I am still at peace! Luke called around this morning, Jennipher in the afternoon and Reymond this evening. I met Ireen near the hospital who told me my shirts would be ready by tomorrow lunchtime! I spoke to Michael – a surgeon at the hospital - for the first time this visit. We have passed at church but never quite met to speak before today.

There was still no electricity when I called at the convent to check out Sr. Juunza's computers, so I left with her laptop. A little job to do after this blog!!

Back home I booked a room for Friday night at Lwisha House. In view of the recent influence of my Ignatian experiences, I think I should spend my last night at an Ignatian centre. Something I wouldn't have done if Longacres Lodge had rooms.

I find it uncomfortable when there is no electricity – especially as it becomes dark. I suspect it is worse because, after 9 hours, I am suffering from caffeine deficiency! For very many in Zambia, whether Zesco is providing power or not, has very little impact, since they don't have any mains electricity. So what am I complaining about? I lay down for a few minutes on the bed when the cheers announced the return of power!!

Well tomorrow is the last day during which I will have the laptop. Since most of that time we will have no electricity, I am unlikely to post another blog until my return to England. I will fill you in at that time with the happenings of the final few days.

Thanks for bearing with me over the past few weeks

Take care

Chris

Consolation

Saturday 11th November

Today has been a joyous day – for the Ignatians among you, one of deep consolation.

Yesterday I spent the morning working on the Diocesan Projects Database. In the afternoon I attempted to teach ACCESS to Dr. Mvula in record time. Dr. Mvula is very proficient with the computer and, like me, an advocate of Ubuntu and Open Source software. Unfortunately he has Office 2007 on his computer. I am convinced that, since Office 2007 offers very little extra functionality, Microsoft have deliberately made it operate differently to former products. It therefore looks like a different product. I have great difficulty in finding my way around it and, when I do, everything is more complex and takes longer (for no good reason). This made my attempt at record speed training more difficult. In practice there were also a couple of functions that I failed to find with 2007, but I achieved most of what I set out to do.

I went to the chapel for mass and afterwards met Jennipher and one of the people involved in a new support group. Some more computer work was required in the evening – at least it is still behaving itself on the whole. I have minimised cooking recently. I made some salad a couple of days ago and have been working through it with some rice and peanuts or eggs.

In recent days I have found myself quite agitated and concerned. I am very aware that I cannot complete all the jobs I need to do. I am also aware of the huge difficulties of the people around me. They all have very basic needs which they cannot meet themselves. A friend of mine told me that he was now doing well – he has a mattress, a radio, a television (though it is broken), some pots and a bowl to bath in! These were all things he didn't possess when we first met! Those involved in projects need support for them to survive and meet the needs of so many disadvantaged people. Over the years I have become involved in a number of these small projects. Where they have developed the needs increase! So ironically success tends to require more support and I cannot meet all the requirements myself.

So this morning I woke, as I have recently, in an amount of inner turmoil. After mass, I decided to ring a hotel near the Immigration office to book a room. It is a hotel I have used before and ideal for what I want. They said that they would even be able to store my bags if I went to Chisamba – the only problem was they were fully booked on Wednesday when the room was required. This was a bit of a shock, as I have never had a problem before – and this time I was relying on this booking. I had promised to visit Charles at 9 hrs so I set off just after 9! Charles lives a couple of km down the Livingstone road. I thought I had everything with me but forgot the few dollars I had for him. I also needed to get some cash from the ATM as I passed. When I reached Barclays Bank there was a notice over the ATM informing me that it was out of order so again I was out of luck

I have with me a book called “Landmarks”. The book helps us to focus on our lives, using the Ignatian suggestions for getting in touch with our deepest feelings and helping us to discern God's will for us. In Ignatian spirituality, desolation is characterised by negative feelings, unease and sometimes despair. Consolation on the other hand brings forth positive feelings such as peace and joy. It is good for me to remind myself of my Ignatian Retreat in 1996 and the lessons I learnt during that life changing week.

So I woke in desolation, but when my plan to book into Longacres Lodge was thwarted, I felt a certain excitement. Failing to access any money confirmed my initial thoughts and the joy increased!!

The Lord works in mysterious ways! My experience in 1996 was that whenever I had set clear plans they failed completely and I was taken somewhere different, or in some other way had to abandon my plans. I would feel led along another path – and without fail, it was one that provided me with amazing experiences. Those experiences I re-call regularly and today they reminded me of how my god works with me.

It is clear that I cannot solve all the problems here, I can only do a little. Yet I have been trying to solve the world's problems (or at Monze's) on my own and today I believe I received a clear message. I can only be a conduit to bring peoples attention to the plight of the people here and I can only start a process of introducing systems and structures to support the projects in which I am involved. The people here, and others back home, have to carry on some of the work I start. The Lord is waiting for me to let him get on with his work and stop trying to run his show! So I intend to step back and marvel at what he has in store!

After my meeting with Charles I returned home and collected my washing from the line. The sun has been shining today – another delight for me – so after a few hours the laundry was dry. I was looking forward to a quick trip to the little dam, but promised to see Diven on the way. We chatted for a while and, as I got up to go, it started raining! So we talked a little longer before I stepped out into the glorious sunshine. I had almost forgotten how strong the sun is here – even at 5 pm.

On the far side of the market a guy had attracted my attention. He held out a model of a bicycle made from wire and bits of rubber. It not only looks like a bike, but the pedals turn the back wheel. He told me that he was selling it. Eventually he confirmed that he had made it himself. He wanted 5,000Zkw for the model so I asked him if he really thought it was worth that much (about 60p). I told him I thought it was worth at less double that and gave him 10,000. I felt very mean giving so little for what has so much work in it. Here of course most people live on less than 10,000Zkw per day.

With joy in my heart I approached the dam, greeting people along the way and responding to the children's “how are you”s. On the way I noticed early shoots of maize were pushing up in the fields adjacent to the road. The water in the dam covers a greater area at each visit and everywhere it is now green with fresh luscious grass. The cows are again putting on weight after a few months when food was scarce. Some lads were fishing in the lake. I asked one if I could look at his rod and line. A stick acts as the rod and a little piece of rubber as a float, a small worm is threaded onto a piece of wire bent into a hook. Again the ingenuity of the local people is inspiring. This fishing rod works well and small fish are caught for supper.

I sat down and enjoyed the quiet, still scene, as the sun dropped low in the sky. The colours as sunset approaches are particularly beautiful over here – especially on a day like today. There were plenty of clouds to reflect the last minutes of sunlight, as our star moves on to wake those on the other side of the earth. A solitary great egret stalked its prey on the far side of the lake. As I relaxed and enjoyed the peace, the rain started to come down in the form of a moderate shower. I didn't expect it to last, so I didn't move. A bird was hovering over the lake so I trained my binoculars on it. It was obviously a kingfisher and the behaviour told me it was probably a pied kingfisher though the fading light made identification from other features a little difficult. For a few minutes I was delighted by it hovering and diving and didn't mind the rain at all. I was disappointed that it didn't make a catch. The Great egret was replaced by a cattle egret and it was time to make tracks, if I was to reach home before dark.

As I was leaving the lake a few birds caught my eye. I talked about swallows earlier with Charles and mentioned the swifts. He claimed that swifts were rarely seen in Monze – or even Zambia. (Though I have seen many). I had assumed that the birds skimming the water and picking insects from the surface were swallows , but on closer inspection they proved to be the elusive swifts.

I had taken a picture earlier and been intrigued by a small, almost vertical, band of yellow cutting through a building on the far side of the lake and opposite the setting sun. Now this band of colour was clearer and I could see that it was a rainbow. I have only once before seen a proper rainbow in Zambia – and that was at a significant moment. ( You see rainbows – or rain circles - formed by the spray at Victoria Falls. They appear if you look down from a bridge close by.) The sun is usually so high that rainbows cannot be seen. In fact today it wasn't strictly a rainbow, but just the end of a rainbow! Who says the Lord hasn't a sense of humour! There is me worried where funds can be found! You know what is said to be found at the end of a rainbow? A crock of gold!!

On my way home Dilys rang to say she had just returned from running a day of prayer back at St. Gregory's church – I think I needed those prayers! It seemed to be very successful, despite a couple of administrative hiccups beyond her control.

As I approached my home, and still chatting to Dilys, a couple of guys wanted my attention. They produced a small tube of sun screen. I bought some sun screen in Lusaka a couple of weeks ago when I found out that I was allergic to the cream I brought from the UK. Apparently I left it on the bus and they wanted to return it to me. I was grateful – though I had little change for a tip. I am now expecting some good weather in the next few days!

Well it has been quite a day and as usual time has run away,

Goodnight and may God bless you

Chris

Hurrah! normal service has been resumed

Thursday 9th December

Hurrah!

Fr Edward Hays suggests that we should make more use of this expression of delight. He says that it is believed the word is derived from a Slovenian word meaning Paradise!

Today I found another missing file and Hey Presto! my laptop started to look more like the one I remember from a couple of weeks back. It appears to be functioning normally now. There were a few initial error messages, but even those haven't appeared recently. So Hurrah indeed, I am in Paradise!

To add to my joy, as I returned, soon after the fix, from buying a loaf, I was greeted by a few swallows – those that left our shores back in September/October. They played excitedly gliding through the gate to Homecraft and almost brushing my legs as they pursued their game. I stopped for a while to marvel at their antics. It was at University watching the swallows that inspired me to learn what they were called and to distinguish them from their cousins, the martins and swifts, with which they often associate. It isn't the first time that the swallows have appeared to announce joy and remind me of the ever present Lord, who is behind everything good.

From a dirth of the wet stuff to a super abundance! The concern now is that the maize won't germinate properly because it will be too wet and, for those late planting, the fields are too soggy for ploughing. The past 4 or 5 days have been wet, with frequent showers throughout the day, but most particularly at night. A few dry days are needed now to restore the equilibrium.

I can't remember what I did yesterday! I must have slept throughout!! Oh yes! Now it is coming back to me! I spent the morning on the computer writing some reports. At lunchtime I went out to get some Frisco. With many products here Coca Cola and Nestle have a monopoly. I do my best to avoid both companies – and I would advise you to do likewise. A major problem I have with Nestle was the way they sold powdered milk – particularly in Africa – claiming that it was better than breast milk. For some of the babies this was disastrous – and tragic for their parents. Unfortunately we are all influenced by advertising – the multinationals wouldn't spend so much if it didn't work. Anyway I don't forgive such action easily – and the evidence is that Nestle hasn't made much improvement. I cannot get Fairtrade coffee in Monze but at least Frisco isn't Nestle!

I called into most of the small shops (one room kiosks) around the section of market nearby – but no Frisco. I got chatting to a couple of guys – the shopkeeper and a customer – and emerged over an hour later!One of the guys seemed convinced that “white men” where naturally more intelligent than their more colourful cousins. Again if your colonial masters continually tell you it is so, you are likely to believe it. I am endlessly pointing out that my grasp of languages is pathetic, whereas most people here speak several languages fluently. One of the guys admitted that he was only fluent in three languages – still that is two more than me! I enjoy discussions with the local people who are very far from unintelligent or ignorant. In fact they understand the art of discussion and debate, because talking to each other is what they do! Unfortunately back home we are too busy to talk to each other. The guys couldn't believe that I could walk through town in Cheltenham with no one greeting me – here it is unheard of. Sometimes I am walking along and get called back because I have been so caught up in my thoughts that I failed to notice someone greeting me – often a complete stranger.

The market sells all sorts! There are areas that specialise in certain items. So just opposites my gates the ladies sell groundnuts (peanuts) – often shelling them while they wait for customers. If I squeeze through a small gap past some wooden stalls and small brick built shops there is an open area where women sit on the ground selling onions, tomatoes, cabbages and other vegetables, and fruit. To the right as I leave Homecraft they sell chickens and turkeys – people here seem content to carry their supper home alive! - on the right hand side of the road, the stallholders sell secondhand clothes – probably most from Europe and the US. The lads on the left sell bags of sugar, soft drinks – and hard ones! (they have small sachets containing whisky, brandy and gin), they also sell bread from the local bakeries (we have two in Monze – Mummy's and Mwapona – a Tonga word meaning Hallo) and they sell some sweets and biscuits. So it goes on throughout the market with stalls which have almost identical stock sitting side by side. You can buy music CDs, parts for your plough, umbrellas, cases, get your bike mended or hair cut, if you know where to look, and all within a couple of hundred metres of my flat!

Jennipher came around just before 2 pm. In Pemba it had been raining since 19 hrs last night and it was still pouring when she left. She told me of a man who had recently been tested and found to be HIV+. Both his wives left him and took the children. One even damaged the thatched roof of his house before leaving him with nothing. He has been sick for a while – hence the test. Naturally for the spouse it is a shock to find their husband (or wife) is positive. I know in the UK it isn't unusual for the husband/wife not to tell their spouse. Of course the likelihood is that the other partner and maybe some of the children, will also be infected. It is people such as Jennipher that try to bring the families to an understanding of the disease and an acceptance of the situation. Jennipher is now a trained counsellor and would like many more to receive training – this would relieve her of some of the workload apart from anything else. Jennipher said that some of her group went to help the man, they made him some porridge and warmed some water for a bath, because the people here are feeling the cold. Jennipher will share some of her mealie meal (ground maize) with him.

This afternoon I called around at the convent where Bridget and Clara had filled my flexible bag with baskets and bags! It was all I could do to haul it back to my flat.

I called at the hospital and found that Judy's computer has the same version of Windows XP as my laptop so I took another copy of explorer. (Just in case the error messages kept coming). I bumped into Dr Mvula who showed me a letter demanding information by today. The letter was written in Livingstone yesterday and delivered today – I was impressed by the postal service and commented that it could have been worse – it might have been delivered tomorrow! We arranged to have a training session on ACCESS tomorrow. A very quick 8 hour basic course will need to be compressed into about two hours!! We will see!

I popped in to see Ireen. I was told to pick up my shirts on Tuesday, so I was a bit late. Anyway she has a patient in the hospital at the moment so they will be ready on Monday! Earlier today I decided I needed to leave Monze next Wednesday if I am to have any chance of retrieving my Work permit from Immigration, in Lusaka, before I leave Zambia. Still by Tuesday evening (sometime) the shirts will be ready – and they will be excellent!

As I passed Rasta Brian he called me back. He told me he was going to teach me how to box. He insisted that I put on a pair of boxing gloves and showed me how to throw a couple of punches, which he caught with his open palms. He called the moves and I throw the punches – and ducked when appropriate. I think that was meant to be the first of several lessons. I think Brian is hoping to become a boxer in order to get away from selling small items on the roadside. He is one of many intelligent guys in the town who have very little prospect of escaping the trap of poverty into which they find themselves. That reminds me I need to burn a few of his incense sticks!

Having double booked myself tomorrow afternoon I popped my head around Vincent's door and apologised.

Once again another day has passed and there are a huge list of tasks to be done – many of which will be left undone. It is usually at this time in my visit that something crops up to occupy the rest of my stay – or electricity vanishes for a couple of days!!

Bye for now

Chris

P.S. The pictures don't do the market justice. It is usually much busier - I will try to get some more representative photos.

Hurrah normal service has been resumed

Thursday 9th December

Hurrah!

Fr Edward Hays suggests that we should make more use of this expression of delight. He says that it is believed the word is derived from a Slovenian word meaning Paradise!

Today I found another missing file and Hey Presto! my laptop started to look more like the one I remember from a couple of weeks back. It appears to be functioning normally now. There were a few initial error messages, but even those haven't appeared recently. So Hurrah indeed, I am in Paradise!

To add to my joy, as I returned, soon after the fix, from buying a loaf, I was greeted by a few swallows – those that left our shores back in September/October. They played excitedly gliding through the gate to Homecraft and almost brushing my legs as they pursued their game. I stopped for a while to marvel at their antics. It was at University watching the swallows that inspired me to learn what they were called and to distinguish them from their cousins, the martins and swifts, with which they often associate. It isn't the first time that the swallows have appeared to announce joy and remind me of the ever present Lord, who is behind everything good.

From a dirth of the wet stuff to a super abundance! The concern now is that the maize won't germinate properly because it will be too wet and, for those late planting, the fields are too soggy for ploughing. The past 4 or 5 days have been wet, with frequent showers throughout the day, but most particularly at night. A few dry days are needed now to restore the equilibrium.

I can't remember what I did yesterday! I must have slept throughout!! Oh yes! Now it is coming back to me! I spent the morning on the computer writing some reports. At lunchtime I went out to get some Frisco. With many products here Coca Cola and Nestle have a monopoly. I do my best to avoid both companies – and I would advise you to do likewise. A major problem I have with Nestle was the way they sold powdered milk – particularly in Africa – claiming that it was better than breast milk. For some of the babies this was disastrous – and tragic for their parents. Unfortunately we are all influenced by advertising – the multinationals wouldn't spend so much if it didn't work. Anyway I don't forgive such action easily – and the evidence is that Nestle hasn't made much improvement. I cannot get Fairtrade coffee in Monze but at least Frisco isn't Nestle!

I called into most of the small shops (one room kiosks) around the section of market nearby – but no Frisco. I got chatting to a couple of guys – the shopkeeper and a customer – and emerged over an hour later!One of the guys seemed convinced that “white men” where naturally more intelligent than their more colourful cousins. Again if your colonial masters continually tell you it is so, you are likely to believe it. I am endlessly pointing out that my grasp of languages is pathetic, whereas most people here speak several languages fluently. One of the guys admitted that he was only fluent in three languages – still that is two more than me! I enjoy discussions with the local people who are very far from unintelligent or ignorant. In fact they understand the art of discussion and debate, because talking to each other is what they do! Unfortunately back home we are too busy to talk to each other. The guys couldn't believe that I could walk through town in Cheltenham with no one greeting me – here it is unheard of. Sometimes I am walking along and get called back because I have been so caught up in my thoughts that I failed to notice someone greeting me – often a complete stranger.

The market sells all sorts! There are areas that specialise in certain items. So just opposites my gates the ladies sell groundnuts (peanuts) – often shelling them while they wait for customers. If I squeeze through a small gap past some wooden stalls and small brick built shops there is an open area where women sit on the ground selling onions, tomatoes, cabbages and other vegetables, and fruit. To the right as I leave Homecraft they sell chickens and turkeys – people here seem content to carry their supper home alive! - on the right hand side of the road, the stallholders sell secondhand clothes – probably most from Europe and the US. The lads on the left sell bags of sugar, soft drinks – and hard ones! (they have small sachets containing whisky, brandy and gin), they also sell bread from the local bakeries (we have two in Monze – Mummy's and Mwapona – a Tonga word meaning Hallo) and they sell some sweets and biscuits. So it goes on throughout the market with stalls which have almost identical stock sitting side by side. You can buy music CDs, parts for your plough, umbrellas, cases, get your bike mended or hair cut, if you know where to look, and all within a couple of hundred metres of my flat!

Jennipher came around just before 2 pm. In Pemba it had been raining since 19 hrs last night and it was still pouring when she left. She told me of a man who had recently been tested and found to be HIV+. Both his wives left him and took the children. One even damaged the thatched roof of his house before leaving him with nothing. He has been sick for a while – hence the test. Naturally for the spouse it is a shock to find their husband (or wife) is positive. I know in the UK it isn't unusual for the husband/wife not to tell their spouse. Of course the likelihood is that the other partner and maybe some of the children, will also be infected. It is people such as Jennipher that try to bring the families to an understanding of the disease and an acceptance of the situation. Jennipher is now a trained counsellor and would like many more to receive training – this would relieve her of some of the workload apart from anything else. Jennipher said that some of her group went to help the man, they made him some porridge and warmed some water for a bath, because the people here are feeling the cold. Jennipher will share some of her mealie meal (ground maize) with him.

This afternoon I called around at the convent where Bridget and Clara had filled my flexible bag with baskets and bags! It was all I could do to haul it back to my flat.

I called at the hospital and found that Judy's computer has the same version of Windows XP as my laptop so I took another copy of explorer. (Just in case the error messages kept coming). I bumped into Dr Mvula who showed me a letter demanding information by today. The letter was written in Livingstone yesterday and delivered today – I was impressed by the postal service and commented that it could have been worse – it might have been delivered tomorrow! We arranged to have a training session on ACCESS tomorrow. A very quick 8 hour basic course will need to be compressed into about two hours!! We will see!

I popped in to see Ireen. I was told to pick up my shirts on Tuesday, so I was a bit late. Anyway she has a patient in the hospital at the moment so they will be ready on Monday! Earlier today I decided I needed to leave Monze next Wednesday if I am to have any chance of retrieving my Work permit from Immigration, in Lusaka, before I leave Zambia. Still by Tuesday evening (sometime) the shirts will be ready – and they will be excellent!

As I passed Rasta Brian he called me back. He told me he was going to teach me how to box. He insisted that I put on a pair of boxing gloves and showed me how to throw a couple of punches, which he caught with his open palms. He called the moves and I throw the punches – and ducked when appropriate. I think that was meant to be the first of several lessons. I think Brian is hoping to become a boxer in order to get away from selling small items on the roadside. He is one of many intelligent guys in the town who have very little prospect of escaping the trap of poverty into which they find themselves. That reminds me I need to burn a few of his incense sticks!

Having double booked myself tomorrow afternoon I popped my head around Vincent's door and apologised.

Once again another day has passed and there are a huge list of tasks to be done – many of which will be left undone. It is usually at this time in my visit that something crops up to occupy the rest of my stay – or electricity vanishes for a couple of days!!

Bye for now

Chris