Last Day in Monze

Sunday 9^th July

Power this year has been good – until today!! My last day in Monze and there has been no power all day – until now 20 hrs. However, on the whole, this hasn't mattered. I had arranged to go out with Diven, Delia and Paul for lunch and fortunately there was power in town. The main problems have been that I haven't been able to use the computer – so the blog will be very brief! But more importantly I have been suffering from a lack of tea!! I am getting my caffeine fix now.

Being a long weekend and the last week it should have been all systems go to finish my work. However, Killian went to Lusaka to get the photocopier repaired, so there were no children to see on Wednesday afternoon and Mrs Sianga's cousin died and was being buried on Thursday, which was postponed to Friday! There was also a sports day on Friday, but I was very busy and forgot that all day means up to 13 hrs – so when I arrived at 14hrs everyone except the Head was gone!!

I know a lot has happened and I seem to have been very busy!! I am still meeting friends – some that I even remember!!

I have now said goodbye to my main friends. Fr. Clement has just dropped around a bottle of sunflower oil which I hope won't get me into trouble with customs!! Jennipher has left with the notebook where the letters “W”, “S” and “X don't work and also the number “2” - I spent ages trying to set up Skype on it last night and failed – it is also very slow. However photos can be displayed and magnified which should help Jennipher with her cervical cancer screening. Diven lost the razor I brought a couple of years back, so I have left him mine – I might look a bit ragged when I get home! I have passed on books to those who requested them including Hannah who called around with her mum yesterday and returned today because she forgot to bring me photos of her taken at her school. I left one John Grisham book with a marketeer from church who has a stall close to a lady in the market to whom it was promised.

The curtain rail collapsed early in my stay. Unfortunately it is not the appropriate rail for the curtains. As far as I can work out, in order to put the curtains on the rails they need to be dismantled. Anyway I bought a new rail, then realised my incompetence and failed to hang the curtains (yes, dismantling them wasn't such a problem!) – hopefully someone who nows what they are doing will sort it!! A door handle also fell off. Alright! Yes, I had to abandon fitting the replacement lock as well!!

             OUTSIDE THE CURIA

I had a final walk back along the railway lines today – in fact it is a single line. I had just chatted to some children sponsored at school through St. Gregory's church – three were completing their schooling this year. Somehow just chatting to the children lifted my spirits. As always it is interaction and relationship that plays the biggest part in the way we are and feel.

Obert will pick me up at 7.30 tomorrow and take me to Tooters Roadhouse or Golden Pillow – probably what you call it depends on your social status! The two establishments sit side by side – one is a bar and the other a hotel! There I will catch a bus to Lusaka. I will meet Persis – the manager from Kaliyangle- for lunch, hopefully. I will leave her with this laptop and another of my books. I will miss this laptop – the one I have at home is desperately slow and I didn't want to insult the people here by bringing it for them. I will probably get a replacement – a bit like this!

Well I am sure that there is a lot more to say, but time is running! So for now I will sign off.

With my love and prayers,

Chris

Reflections

Tuesday 4^th July

Today marks the end of a long weekend. Traditionally the Gonde ceremony would be celebrated now just outside Monze, but with the leader of the most popular politcal party in this area in jail on treason charges, people are not in the mood to celebrate and the ceremony has been postponed. I have been here on numerous times when Gonde has been celebrate, but for some reason though invited I have never quite made it – so another year passes!

As I walked along the railway tracks today, stepping from sleeper to sleeper I had a chance to reflect on the past few weeks here in Zambia. A Black Headed Heron flew over, heading for my home and a Brown Breasted Snake Eagle hung in the breeze. I will remember the wildlife that has lived with and around me while I have been her at my house behind the Curia. The herons are beautiful birds – especially in flight, with their huge wings edged in black contrasting against the light grey. Yesterday and today cattle Egrets lined up on the garden wall – I counted 19 a few minutes ago. Palm Swifts, Bulbils and Canaries are also constant playmates in and around the garden. The delicate trees outside are loved by some large bees which constantly feed on the nectar. Inside I have a few lodgers – some more welcome than others!! Ants appear in their hundreds if the slightest morsel of food is left, beetles trundle through the house one by one, but in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. A rat or two couldn't resist the smell of peanuts and even broke into a plastic container where pounded groundnuts were stored. Some platic bags sealing the entrance under the door at night seemed to have deterred him(them) in recent days! A couple of house frogs have stayed for a day or two at a time, booking the toilet or bathroom for the night – it ismeant to be a guest house after all! A family of lizards have found some pleasant accommodation under the freezer – they race across the floor and create quite a freezer furore during family arguments. Yesterday however they were evicted for a time by another visitor who had obviously heard of the luxury accommodation with overnight heating! A snake made its way into the house and headed for the freezer. I was about to leave, but noticed it gliding slowly across the living room floor. I decided to fetch the security guard, who, after deciding it had moved on, spotted it at the back of the freezer. Eventually it was located and killed. I now feel guilty because I susspect the snake wished me no harm. I understand that there are snakes which choose to live in houses without causing trouble – in the same way there are varieties of frogs and lizards that have adapted to live in houses. (My lizards however are the outdoor variety that come in to get warmed up!)

On Sunday I went to the Citonga mass. It was a bit shorter and with less theatre than usual. Afterwards I asked Fr. Clement about the oil press. He told me that it was used a little in October, but a fortnight ago it was brought into full production. A few days a week they press the sunflower seeds. In a day they can process 30 x 50Kg bags (although in practice the sunflower seed is lighter than the maize meal for which the bags are made – so a 50 Kg bag actually weighs about 30 Kg!) They get about 10 litres of oil per bag.

It was my last opportunity to meet with St. Veronia's Small Christian Community. Next Sunday there will be no meeting as there is a parish retreat on the Saturday at Chikuni. The Jesuits first arrived in Chikuni to bring Christianity to this area of Zambia over 100 years ago. In truth being my last day in Monze next Sunday, it suits me that there is no 'Section' meeting next Sunday. At our meeting we reflected on next week's gospel which contains the phrase “My yoke is easy and my burden light.” I see yokes almost daily in Monze as the oxen pull their loads, but the phrase troubles me! So often I feel that the Lord is just asking too much. Earlier in the scripture he talks about revealing things to children and hiding them from the wise. Maybe it is ourselves that create the burdens. So often we see problems that are not there, we live our lives in constant fear of what might happen – yet so often when the time comes, we wonder why we were so anxious. Perhaps we need to learn from children who so often enjoy the moment and let tomorrow take care of itself.

I handed out some photos I took last year. One of the ladies I visited when she was sick has since died. Another has breast cancer and after the meeting we went to her house to see her and say a few prayers. She has a cancer which is forming a mass at the surface of the breast. She went to Lusaka for treatment and they said they hadn't any medicine, but gave her some painkillers. She is waiting in case they call her again for treatment. It isn't clear what if any treatment they propose. I am not sure what painkillers she was given – panadol (I believe it is just paracetamol) seems to be the norm. I gave her some stronger tablets that I bring with me, which Jennipher says are effective.

I eventually got to see Charles, after a slight delay due to the incident with the snake. We attempted to put the world right – though in truth I think with the world's current state it will take more than a couple of hours between Charles and myself.

Power has been remarkably reliable this year. A short planned outage last week and a couple of minor breaks have been the only losses. Yesterday, while talking to Dilys via Skype, the power went down for a while. On the way to the staff room where I access the internet I was aware that the moon was now half and almost directly above me. Returning during the brief power cut that moon came into its own! It is a real joy to me to see by the light of the moon. With no electricity in Monze the moon became my torchlight. It was more than adequate and quite strange to switch off my torch as soon as I came out of the room, because it was now superfluous. My shadow was now clear and lead me back slowly home as I wondered at the beauty displayed by that very special light. I wasn't home long before power was restored and I could return to continue my conversation with Dilys.

This morning I met with Obert's parents. They live a little way beyond Southern Comfort Motel – about three kilometres up the Livingstone road. I arranged to meet at Southern Comfort since there was no chance that I would find their house on my own.

Southern Comfort gives a small glimpse of what Zamba could be. It is a reasonably comfortable Motel with green gardens and even model animals out front. With water, electricity and a little money Zambia looks very nice, and with the climate it is a wonderful place to live.

We talked about the pre-school which struggles to survive. Growing some chickens helps pay the teacher, but it is a struggle. The children are given a little food two or three days a week – the other days there is nothing to give. Another batch of chickens would allow them to raise enough to cover costs, but this would need about £200 to set up.

While I was there Nancy arrived. She had been told that I was visiting. Today is her eighth birthday and she had produced a letter for me.

I am very impressed by the way that Obert's parents work with people who have children with disabilities. They encourage them to take their children to school, Sometimes the parents won't even let the children be seen outside the house. Obert's dad told me how he was told not to take Obert to school, but he was insistent that he learnt. Now Obert can read and write, speak better English than his dad, drives a car and plays in goal at football – discarding his false leg, but using a single crutch instead – which is thrown aside as he dives to save a goal!

TREE FILLED WITH BEES

So I returned along the railway line thinking of what I would miss. Life happens at such a pace and in full view here! Ladies with large containers full of buns balanced on their heads, cycles that are loaded with charcoal, maize and many other products. They often have a passenger on the back or on the crossbar. Women will cycle with childen strapped to their backs with a piece of chitenge cloth. Goats and cows wander down the main roads. People have conversations as they continue their journeys, shouting louder as they move apart. Goods are carried on heads, shoulders or more often by wheelbarrow or ox-carts. Minibuses rush around hooting to attract passengers and display messages such “God Knows, In God We Trust” or given references to bible passages. Children use all sorts of objects as toys, kicking bottles or balls made of rags, rolling tyres and pushing cars which they have made from discarded bottles - and I notice when the sun goes behind a cloud, not when it comes out! Life will seem dull when I return to the UK next week.

With love and prayers,

Chris

Building Steadily

Saturday 1^st July

Jennipher has been a regular visitor this year. As mentioned earlier her current mission is to screen women for cervical cancer and where necessary have them treated. The main problem is not the screening or treatment, but the fact that many cannot find the money to go to Monze or Choma either for a smear test or for treatment. This evening she said she had borrowed money in order that two women could return to their homes. Jennipher is convinced that the only solution is to buy a vehicle to provide transport for these women. She might well be right, but finding a donor will not be an easy task.

I continue to spend a lot of time either with the team at PIZZ School or on the computer making sense of what I am discovering. I am also meeting with some of the children who are sponsored by people back in the UK.

Today I tried to meet with Charles, but couldn't manage to arrange it. I decided to go for a walk in the bush instead and give myself a chance to think. I have been referring to myself as retired for a number of years, but still feel guilty if I am

not busy most of the time – and keeping busy is not a problem. One of the major issues with projects with one or more key players, is what happens when they are no longer involved. Mrs. Sianga and myself have seen PIZZ School develop into the project it is today, but neither of us are getting younger and I think we would love to believe that, in the not too distant future, we will find a way to take a back seat, assured in the knowledge that the school will continue to prosper. This is perhaps our biggest challenge!

Bright rang me whilst on my walk and I agreed to meet him at PIZZ School at 14 hrs. Bright lives 15 minutes or so beyond PIZZ School – which as David knows, is a pleasant 40 minute stroll from the Curia!! I must admit that by giving myself enough time, I don't mind the extra exercise I am getting this year. I suppose today I must have covered at least 10 miles. I was pleased to see how Bright's house is developing. Last year the walls were at about head height – this year the walls are complete and two rooms have iron sheets covering them. Bright hopes to cover all other rooms this year apart from a large sitting room. His wife has started a vegetable garden and the cabbages are developing nicely. She has also been collecting cuttings and has a large range of plants to go around the house. She made us a meal of boiled eggs with some “soup” and nshima. Soup means a gravy usually with tomatoes, onions and other vegetables. I enjoyed the food.

Building around this area is extensive. What was once open fields is now housing almost as far as the eye can see. Most of the houses, like Bright's, are at varying stages of completion.

I called in to see Diven on the way back and he gave me some biscuits and a Yess drink (a fruity, milky concoction I rather enjoy). I think I have put back the calories that I burnt on my walks today!

Jennipher was at home when I returned – she had been talking to the security guard about cervical cancer and persuaded him to bring his wife for screening on Tuesday!!

I could have managed without an evening meal, but couldn't resist shaving of some more steak for a stir fry!

Chris

Changing Perspective

Wednesday 28^th June

I have noticed how quickly the scene changes as you walk along the road. If you glance to the other side, after just a step or two your view can change dramatically. The buildings which dominated suddenly vanish behind the trees and a rural landscape appears. A little later some rubbish or a broken fence gives a very different impression.

It is similar with the way we feel and perceive life. A pain relieved by a tablet, a friendly smile and a hug can quickly change our mood. Today I met three teenagers attending local secondary schools. I asked one what would make her life at school easier and she said “food to go to school and power – a light at home.” We take for granted that we will be able to eat at lunchtime and have electricity for a lot more than just lighting. Another girl who plaits hair when she gets back from school has food if she has people wanting this service and none if she doesn't. Yet another asked whether I would be helping her with a ream of paper and school shoes that she needed for school. These children are the “lucky” ones because we are paying their school fees. For them a couple of small steps could change their view dramatically.

Deana joined me for a meal on Saturday and it was late when she attempted to get a taxi back home. Most drivers had long stopped work for the day – fortunately one was still awake and came to collect her. We had a good chance to talk. It is sometimes useful to share experiences with someone who also lives most of the time in another world.

After mass on Sunday I visited Diven, Delia and Paul. It seemed that there had been some friction and I was filled in on some of the details. I listened to Diven and watched Delia! I don't claim any skills as a counsellor, but some issues seemed clear to me and I reflected on what I was observing. Since it was past lunchtime, I suggested that we adjourned to Tooters for a meal. Fortunately by this time some smiles had returned and they increased throughout the meal. What tomorrow will bring who knows – yet more steps and changes in scenery, for good or for worse!!

THE CURIA WATER SUPPLY             

I continue to meet friends and others who greet me along the road with a friendly “Hallo Mr. Chris”. Robert passes by daily and I see a few others regularly. Many I am desperately trying to place!

There is no progress on the lighting, other than a few positive messages. I have been working on the PIZZ Annual Report. The narrative has been written by Mrs. Sianga and Killian and I have changed a few things, altered the language here and there and re-ordered paragraphs in order to make it more appropriate for a UK audience. I am keen that the document is jointly produced and agreed reflecting our close relationship and common purpose. Monday was devoted largely to this task.

Yesterday was spent at home. I had more work to do on the report and a few other tasks. However, it doesn't take long for visitors to arrive. A lady from the church came around to tell me about a child she took in when the mother died in childbirth. Another couple had arranged an appointment and I expected to need my marriage guidance hat on again. For various reasons life is very raw here and often life and death issues are at stake. In this instance the husband had killed his daughter. He had spent some time in jail. Since his release he had lived apart from his wife. Or so I thought! It seems that they went through another wedding ceremony in February – in fact on the day of my own 45^th Wedding Anniversary. They wanted to tell me the good news. I have kept in contact with both parties and am delighted they are re-united. The events were terrible, but nothing will bring the daughter back and the wife's ability to forgive is truly inspirational. I wish them all the best for the future.

Jennipher arrived with Lillian(not Lillian of the rosaries but another!) and another lady. I had made some guacomole for lunch – Deana brought me an avacado pear as a present, this year fruit and vegetables are enormous! This avacardo must have weighed almost 1 Kg!!- Jennipher and friends seemed to enjoy the feast and had no problem demolishing it!

Obert cycled around. He is having a lot of problems with his leg and wasn't working yesterday. I popped into town with him and picked up some more milk – I don't know why but I seem to get through a lot of milk! On return it was around dusk and an owl flew across the road in front of me. I have heard owls around, but this was the first decent view of one this year. I suspect it was a Spotted Eagle Owl – these are apparently more common here than Barn Owls

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I checked that Raymond was en-route. He had mentioned that he might see me Tuesday and as I was preparing a beef stir fry I thought I would add another sweet potato if he was on his way. He was!! I rather enjoy beef with plenty of ginger – it seems to improve if the beef is left with ginger and garlic to marinate while the rest of the vegetables are prepared. I decided to make some sweet potato chips and fry them with some pounded groundnuts. Raymond said he enjoyed the meal – I certainly did!

There are a number of things that are different here in Zambia. Forgive if I am repeating myself, but sometimes I am reminded of these features. Today the morning started completely cloudless and I was struck again by the intense blue of the sky. My laptop has a light blue background which resembles the UK sky - when we are lucky enough to see blue sky, but here the colour is many shades darker. The moon at the moment is new – which means it forms a  in the night sky – eventually turning into an  as it sets! having passed overhead!! I need to look at some models one day and make sense of it all!!

So today I talked to a few students and discussed the project with Mrs Sianga and Killian. Mrs. Sianga kindly provided me with lunch at her house next to the old school and her office.

Jennipher and Lillian popped around again this evening. I have promised Jennipher a notebook computer for her cervical cancer screening. I showed her how it worked this afternoon and she has borrowed it for tomorrow. I hope it will be useful for her work.

Life in Monze is difficult for so many people, my decision to share part of my life with these people brings me into constant contact with these situations. Sometimes I am able to provide a little support and comfort, often I can only listen and feel some of their pain.

Chris

Chisamba and Back

Saturday 24^th June

I travelled safely to and from Chisamba. New this year are a series of tolls on the roads. I have personally never been convinced that tolls are the most efficient method for collecting taxes – I believe that an extra few ngwee on a litre of fuel would be better. Between Monze and Chisamba – a distance of about 250 Km we passed through three toll booths. Two booths were within 20 Km of each other.

Travelling to Chisamba takes a good eight hours. A significant time is spent waiting for buses and taxis to fill. I set out just after six hours on Tuesday and would have arrived at about 14.30 if the taxi hadn't ran out of fuel!! In the event a back-up taxi delivered us at 15 hrs!

When you get a bus to Chisamba you are dropped at Chisamba crossroads on the Great North Road. I once walked from there to Chisamba town, but since it is about 23 Km you need to be well prepared! Hence the taxi!!

It seems that Miriam and her son Cephas were being evicted for a couple of days to accommodate me. Miriam was very gracious and said that she would be visiting a relative, much as Mary visited Elizabeth when carrying Jesus in her womb. She told me that it was therefore a blessing.

Miriam has worked hard to transform the room, which was prepared for me some years back, into a home for herself and her son. It is humbling to think of this very basic building being a full time home. At least there is now a bed and Miram has everything sorted and in its place. Fortunately I wasn't around long enough to do much damage.

Cephas wrote his name for me in the book I was using for my notes about Kaliyangile! He told me that he was six years old and was in grade 1. His grasp of English was excellent and I am sure he is another child who will go far. We became good friends during the short period I was around. Miriam teaches knitting and some dressmaking at the Centre so they were present quite a lot. At one point I thought I would take a picture of Cephas – possibly a mistake!! He asked me how to operate the camera and then spent the next half hour making me pose for photos which he took, as if he had been using the equipment for years. After showing him once how to look at a pcture just taken he checked all the photos on the camera to see what I had been taking during the past week or so.

Hands Around the World's financial involvement with Kaliyangile has dropped very considerably in recent years, but it is impotant to maintain the relationship. I like to see how things are progressing, what plans they have and if there are particular issues where we might still be able to provide some support. The fact that the project is still active is an achievement in itself, since they used to rely on significant funding from us. The Centre is developing in different areas where there seems to be a local need. For instance they are now providing literacy classes. It is good that the project develops and adapts to what is needed locally.

There is always time to ponder and reflect when I visit Chisamba. I wandered around the site and had a meeting with the local committee – the members of which I know well. I also managed a session of pool with Davidson. In fact I thought I might have to forgo pool when Davidson wasn't around on Tuesday, however I bumped into him in town on Wednesday morning and arranged an appointment for the evening!! In the event Persis came with us to the club, after a meal and met friends while Davidson and myself took our turns on the table throughout the evening. I enjoyed some good games with the local guys.

There is a well known character in Chisamba whose name escapes me. He creates very intricate plans and drawings and has an idea for an aeroplane which runs on magnets! He told me that he had written a song about Brexit and would come around with his guitar and play it for me! I hoped he would visit – in the event I was disappointed because he didn't appear!

While in Chisamba I had a call from Fr. Victor who had some guests wanting to use rooms at my house. Unfortunately I had the keys and the spares were safely inside the house! So different arrangements were made for the visitors– I hoped I wasn't in too much trouble!!

I left Chisamba just after eight hours on Thursday. A couple of half empty buses left the High Street - well in fact the only street in Chisamba!! Eventually my taxi left and took me to the turn off. A friendly policeman found me a “bus” - since it had only a single row of seats it was more like a van!! We made good time until we were stopped at a police checkpoint. It is often difficult to understand on what grounds the police stop vehicles. Our bus on the way up avoided problems of overloading by dropping a guy before the checkpoints and retrieving him further down the road. On one occasion he hitched a lift past the police in a pick-up truck and came back on board a few kilometres later!!

I decided that at eleven hours I would do best picking up a bus from the Inter-City bus station. There was an 11.30 FM bus which suited me fine – if it had left before 12.30 I would have been in Monze by 15 hrs - as it was, a extra hour was added to the journey time.

I paid a brief visit to Mrs. Sianga yesterday morning, but needed to get back for a trustees meeting in Monmouth in the afternoon! With the wonders of Skype I was able to attend the meeting, with only a short break due to network problems. On the whole I was able to listen and participate fully – though occasionally the quality was poor.

Jennipher and Bonadventure popped along at lunchtime and joined me for guacomole. When I emerged from my meeting, Raymond was waiting so we finished the dip (spread) between us as a snack before supper.

Today I have caught up on some household chores. Lillian called around to drop off some rosaries. I had forgotten our arrangement, but fortunately I was at home. Lilian also had a present for me – a necklace made of beads. She explained that the main beads were in fact made from old calenders that she had cut up. I am very impressed with her ingenuity and recycling initiative. I have ordered some more necklaces because I think they look good and might go down well in the UK. Lillian told me that she also works at the Home Based Care office at the church and makes the Communion hosts for the church – both of which activities she does on a voluntary basis.

I have promised to make Deana supper – so I had better sort out a little shopping and get busy.

Chris

Drinking Coffee

Monday 19^th June

I spent most of Saturday at home.

I tell people that my most valuable job is to sit at home drinking coffee with friends. Yet, like being still, it is hard even to convince myself of the value. In our world little importance is placed on such activity. Maybe our world would be less harsh and the anger would diminish, if we spent more time talking to each other over a coffee.

Teddy popped along Saturday morning. It was already a month before we met this year. Teddy has been Acting Information Officer for 11 years now. He has been doing the job and yet whatever qualifi

cations he obtains they don't quite seem to meet the criteria for the post. We have been friends since 2004 when we worked together with Bentoe on the hospital computer systems. He hopes to move out of town when he eventually retires.

Deana came to have a chat and catch up. A few years back Deana established Friends of Monze – a small charity based in Wales. They have just built their second school around Monze and handed it over to the government to run. They are looking at a third.

We were beginning to have a discussion when Jennipher, Soloman, Obert and another guy turned up. Jennipher told Deana all about her new mission to screen women for cervical cancer. Apparently in the Southern Province of Zambia cervical cancer is a particular issue and is becoming a bigger killer than AIDS.

I will have to arrange to meet Deana another time!

MONZE GOLF COURSE - OPPOSITE THE CURIA

I am having a slightly slack time with the food at present. I am heading to Chisamba tomorrow to visit Kaliyangile - another project I co-ordinate for Hands Around the World. I am keen to run stocks a little low as there are plenty of creatures that would like a share!! Small cabbages don't seem to exist in Monze! I would think my current cabbage will provide at least 10 – 20 portions! Fortunately the cabbage is very nice so a few different daily meals containing a generous helping is fine! I can't remember whether I have commented on the soya. Well, at the risk of repeating myself, you can buy soya pieces in the market, which are very tasty and have a texture very close to meat. These are nothing like those I avoid back in the UK! This soya could almost turn me vegetarian!!

Yesterday was Corpus Christie. Religion is not hidden in Zambia, but widely acclaimed. On Sundays I pass a number of churches with hymns filling the air with multi-part harmonies. At Our Lady of the Wayside Church after our mass this Sunday we processed around the surrounding roads stopping now and again to listen to readings and reflections on them from parishioners. Fr. Clement carried the host, which we believe in some real sense, Jesus Christ, our God, is truly present. It is an act of witness and a way of bringing God among the people. It is very rare for such acts of witnesss to take place in England. Here they are quite common.

One of the tasks I have, is to bring back reports for children who are sponsored by people back in the UK. Most of the children I have now met over several years and it is difficult to encourage them to tell me something new. The sponsorship helps us to provide much needed funds for the school, it provides sponsors with a tangible link to the school and gives the children a bit of a boost. I met about half a dozen children this morning, including two who want to become doctors, a policeman and a soldier! It is good to have a chance to talk to the children - we can learn a little about each other. I also like to encourage the children to ask me a little about my life – it only seems fair!

I have talked to the Project Manager at Kaliyangile and she tells me that there are no rooms at the “Chisamba Hilton” so my own little hotel will be prepared. Some years back I spent a week or more at Kaliyangile. They cleared out a storeroom, put a mattress on the floor and the carpenter made a simple chair and desk. Here is a large washbasin and, across the field, is a toilet block with a couple of showers. (No hot water for a couple of days!!). I am not sure whether I prefer it to the “Hilton” or not! Neither have hot water! The Hilton however has a generous breakfast of eggs, sausages, beans tomato, onions, chips & bread – although some things are not always available – so it varies from the full monte, to bread, onions and tomato or another random combination! The small hotel however is very peaceful with only the birds and cattle to keep me company.

I won't take my laptop to Chisamba so I will have some peace from our turbulant world for a day or two.

Best wishes

Chris

When it's Hard to Spot a Bishop

Saturday 17^th June

It is not always easy to recognise a bishop! This is especially so when he is divested of his episcopal finery. I suspect that I have been in the presence of the bishop during my stay here at the Curia without being aware. David told me that the Red Bishop was resident in the garden here at the Curia yet I haven't noticed him around! He is a handsome fellow in his rich regalia and should stand out from the crowd. However, on further investigation, I find that, like most bishops, he only wears his robes during special occasions. At this time of year he blends in with the crowd and is hard to distinguish from other weavers or even females – yes they do have female Red Bishops here in Zambia!!

It is easy to become blaze about the bird life here. A lovely rounded tree just beyond the garden is a perch used alternately for Black Headed Herons and Brown Breasted Snake Eagles. The snake eagles sometimes fly in formation two or three at a time. They hang in the sky like a kite without a string, on their long wide wings surveying the ground below. Other birds show aerobatic skills twisting and turning – the Fork Tailed Drongo is a master. I even saw a Pied Crow use the power lines as asymmetric bars – hanging on by its toes rotating upside down!!

I have become so used to the sights here, that I find little surprising. A lady balancing a single wellington boot on her head was a little unusual – baskets of food, cases and even pumpkins on the head are routine! I couldn't resist asking if I could picture two children sitting comfortably in a wheelbarrow – something we might even see in the UK, less common in our Country is to see adults resting in the same way. Ox-carts are a common sight in the centre of town, but there are also large lorries that find their ways onto the smallest dirt tracks and park outside mud huts!!

On Thursday I went to the Immigration Office to extend my visitor's permit. Fortunately there is now an office in Monze and the operation is very straightforward. In the past, a trip to Mazabuka was required. This took a good half day by the time transport was found. For some reason you only get a 30 day Visitor's Permit – it can be renewed twice without any difficulty or extra cost, but you can only get 30 days at one time! On one occasion I had to travel to Mazabuka just to extend my permit by one day!

Ireen had almost finished my shirts by Thursday evening. A couple of weeks back I brought two pieces of material for Ireen to choose the best to make a shirt (I also had another chitenge in the bag which was to be for display back home). She said all three would be good!! So this year I will be very well adorned! Rather than wait for buttons to be attached I agreed to meet Saturday – later today – when they should be complete.

I continue to meet friends from the past – most of whom I don't recognise. A guy reminded me that some years back I gave him a manual on ACCESS – Microsoft's database design software. Somewhere in the distance it rings a bell! He is keen to meet up and catch up again. Sarah greeted me warmly when on one of my trips through town. I always confuse Sarah with another woman from the hospital, but on this occasion I was completely confused!! Sarah told me that she is still in the laundry, where they have a lot of new equipment. It seems that provision of equipment is improving, yet there are routine drugs where shortages occur and staff who retire may never receive their gratuities.

Mr Phiri who owns the hairdresser's Sweet Sixteen bumped into me as I passed by. He has plans to open a lodge and other businesses, but says he is having a bit of a rest at present. He cut my hair in 2004 and I seem to remember he took rather a shine to Emily – the physio!

I have seen Deana and Charles a couple of times now – always rushing!! I will ring Deana later and arrange a proper meeting.

I seem to have lost a week!! I thought I had a month remaining, but it only appears to be three weeks!! As usual there is a lot to sort out. I spend quite a lot of time with Mrs. Sianga discussing the progress of the school and the huge challenges they face. I find I need a lot of time to think through the issues and try to plan with them a way forward. The school has developed over the years, but PIZZ is so much more than just a school. We have a rich community of families where the students range from grade one to University, and family members involved must count in the thousands. Maintaining the delicate balance which makes the project so successful is extremely difficult – my job is to work closely with the people here to avoid its collapse.

I have taken a break from working on the computers and decided to see if I can jump to a proper solution. For years I battled at Monze Mission Hospital to establish a process to maintain antivirus software and have regular back-ups. Eventually I admitted defeat!! I have the same challenge at the school. Access to the Internet has improved, but the same issues remain. I am willing to give it a shot, but doubt if the odds are in favour of success – we shall see.

Another book I have with me from which I am gaining inspiration is called “Ostriches, Dung Beetles and other Spiritual Masters”. It is written by an American nun Janice McLaughlin who spent 35 years living and working in Africa. Ben enjoyed this book while he was here. She reminds me of the importance of giving time for rest. We are now programmed to be busy all the time. Even in Zambia I find it difficult to stop! To stop reading and listen to the birds for ten minutes is uncomfortable. Yet we need to try to adopt a more natural rythym – Sister Janice looks at the animals and sees that they have plenty of time to rest and to play.

We shouldn't feel guity about stopping, resting and taking in our surroundings. We are much more likely to be productive if we follow the natural rythms of life – we might also learn to listen more and talk a little less!!

With love and prayers,

Chris

When less can be more!

Wednesday 14^th June

Ben is now on his way to Lusaka

. There was a slight misunderstanding with the taxi driver and he started at the destination – Tooters Roadhouse ( as our bus station in Monze is known!) - rather than the starting point, losing valuable minutes. Whether if the taxi had been on time a seat would have been available on the 8.40 bus I doubt. I didn't see anyone getting off in Monze.

Monze is on the Livingstone – Lusaka route. To book a ticket on the bus the operator needs to know there will be a seat available. Since most buses leave Livingstone full, the only chance is if someone disembarks at Monze. This also means you have to wait until the bus has set off from Livingstone or at least has the full complement of passengers before knowing the situation.

In the event, the Shalom bus was full. On Ben's trip to Livingstone he was enticed to use an F & M bus – not one with which I was familiar. They seem to run a semi-official service from Roadhouse – using minibuses. (Roadhouse is usually reserved for coaches). Anyway Ben seemed happy with their service and, having being assured that they could cope with his luggage, he booked the 9.30 bus. As it happened I was also impressed – particularly as the bus arrived and departed before 9.30am, something I don't think I have experienced before in Zambia. Ben was given a seat and safely wedged in with his second case as he left Monze!!

 THE HERON ON HIS FAVOURITE PERCH AS SEEN FROM UNDER MY VERANDA

My mind was pre-occupied over the weekend by Helen's “Race to the Tower”. Unfortunately things didn't go well! Shortly after the start she developed a migraine. However, Helen is not one to give up easily, so she took a couple of tablets and continued. Unfortunately things got worse as she became dehydrated and subsequently became over-hydrated trying to compensate. This set of circumstances started a reaction which messed up the bodies balance, leading to some potentially very serious consequences. Helen eventually had to give up, being more or less at the state of collapse. Somehow she reached the final marshalling point 46 miles (73 Km) from the start. At this point they recognised something was seriously wrong and called an ambulance to take her to hospital. She stayed in Gloucester Royal Hospital over Saturday night, was transferred to Cheltenham General on Sunday and discharged on Monday. The doctors were amazed that she had managed to get so far in her condition. Apparently she was suffering from a known problem that affects elite athletes and particularly those undertaking extreme challenges such as Helen was attempting. It was identified during a study at the Boston Marathon a few years back and is apparently sometimes referred to as the Boston Marathon Syndrome!

We live in a world of competition and targets. Too often success or failure is measured by a very limited set of criteria. However, sometimes less can mean more. Jean Vanier tells of the time that they opened a bottle of champagne because one of their community manage to wee in the toilet. Something not often recognised as a major achievement. So often we just look at raw statistics. We compare schools or hospitals in a “league table” but we don't know whether the students came to the school with severe disadvantages, or the patients arrived with little chance of survival. Our measurements are crude and can take no account of many factors where figures cannot apply.

Last Friday we watched the children play football and netball. Yes, the teams who scored the most goals showed some ability, but for me the sheer exuberance of the children when goals were scored told me much more about the value of PIZZ School! How can you measure that!!

Helen might have only – I said only!- covered 46 miles (in fact she did a slight detour and her phone recorded 47.8 miles) out of an intended 53 miles. However, being as ill as she was for much of the way, I would claim that the effort required far exceeded 53 miles under normal circumstances. Sometimes less really can be more!!

My Sunday was spent largely at church and St. Veronica's – though I did spare a couple of hours to battle with Fr. Clement and Fr. John on the pool table. Having made my comments about competition, I need to confess my determination to win – appropriately therefore after an excellent start, I was put firmly in my place by Fr. Clement!!

Ben arrived back at lunchtime yesterday. I had just made an excursion to the market and bought a lot of chitenge material – there were a lot of happy marketeers!!

I helped Ben with his packing. We only had half a dozen – well maybe 10 - baskets to pack – some fairly small. I had ordered more but it appears they have yet to be made. It would be a shame for Ben to return with an empty case - hence the chitenges. I have a motto when packing, learnt when I had a minibus, which was sometimes used as a removal van. This was “yes it will”! Ben was dubous that the Zambian baskets would fit, and if they did the English ones certainly would not! By the time the 20 bead bags and 20 – 30 2 metre lengths of cotton cloth were also eased into place, I was satisfied that the case was close enough to the 23 Kg limit to be worth taking. There was still a little room in Ben's other case for any excess!

Jennipher and Obert visited yesterday afternoon and Ben went to say a final farewell to the Siangas and Killan. I followed a few minutes later.

When Ben set out four weeks ago he expected to spend a significant time installing solar lighting in the school classrooms. In the event the equipment is still at Lusake Airport, while we try to negotiate reasonable costs. If Ben's only reason for coming to Zambia was to install lighting this trip would have been a disaster! However, the real importance of such visits is for people to meet and to touch each other's lives. Unless, when you meet another, you are changed, that encounter was at best superficial. We never know the impact we have on another, a smile, a cross word – each matters, and has an effect. Ben embraced the whole experience and met many during this short period – I am sure he will be changed, as will those he met.

With my love and prayers,

Chris

Getting Around

Saturday 10^th June

My daughter Helen should be about half way along her run to the Tower as I start to write! She set off at 8.15 BST – about 5 hrs ago on her 53 mile run! I hope that sufficient will be raised to secure Talent and Betty's secondary education – there are of course more children who need our support. Any raised above the £1,800 will go into the fund which is attempting to pay the fees for about 80 secondary students – all former PIZZ Students. So we still have a challenge ahead. For anyone wanting to make Helen's efforts really worthwhile, donations are still being received at http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/HelenBarrell.

Tuesday seems a long time ago and a lot has happened since. In terms of the diary we met the caregivers from the school on Tuesday, went to Hachanga Dam on Wednesday, out into the rural areas on Thursday and attended a sports day at the school yesterday!

Of course this brief diary contains a wealth of interactions. Everywhere you go, whether a visitor or resident, you need to make time to say hallo – to ask whether the other is well, and how is the family. Enquire about any problems etc. When we went out into the villages this was very apparent.

We left the tarmac just before we reached PIZZ School and drove 14 Km to St. Mary's – probably regarded as a small town here. Another 10 – 15 Km and we reached Hatontola. I had been here before with Jennipher – then we came from Pemba, about 15Km distant. Jennipher donated one of her bicycle ambulances to her support group at Hatontola, because of the long distances people have to travel in these parts. There is a school and clinic at Hatontola. We continued for a few more kilometres and arrived where Mrs Sianga was born and brought up. She told us that all the people around were her relatives. A village in Zambia is a remote place – you cannot expect any mains electricity or water and you don't expect to be within 10 Km or so of a tarred road. This village was probably at least 20 or 30 Km from a tarred road.

On our journey we met men pushing bicycles with perhaps four large bags of charcoal balanced. They were on their way to Monze – 30 - 40 Km or more distant. There they will sell the charcoal for 25 kwacha a bag (Just over £2). It would be getting dark before some were back home, having left at four in the morning.

A village in Zambia comprises a small group of structures which form the family home. Maybe a couple of hundred metres away there is another family home and so on. There is little need for roads between because vehicles are rare – though we came across one or two guys who had sold some cows to buy a motorbike!

We stopped at a home – to be honest I was a bit surprised, since there were more houses than I expected – maybe this was a small community and my concept of the village was wrong!. However all was explained when we met the headman – who of course shared a grandparent with Mrs Sianga! He had married six wives – four of whom are still alive, including his first wife. I think the man said he was 83 years old. He had 26 children and 50+ grandchildren. So yes all these buildings belonged to his family – it was just that his family was rather large!!

We were made very welcome. Ben asked if he could take a photo and spent the next half hour being taken on a tour of the place, with family members posing at each stop. Everyone had a great time!

The visit to Hachanga Dam on Wednesday was a little more sedate. On the banks of the lake a small community has been established. With support from the Catholic Church, a group of disabled people have built houses and grow some crops. They also make beautiful baskets from palm leaves and small twigs which they sell to bring in some income. We were visiting to pick up some of these baskets. Again we were made very welcome and learnt a little about their lives. In recent years the community has grown with many children being born and a school has been built. They also have their own chapel where priests occasionally come to say mass.

We left the village and stopped close to the lake to relax a little and see what the fishermen had caught. In fact the women and children had caught some very small fish in nets.

Back to to visit in the rural area we continued further from Monze and finally arrived at a village where Killian's mother was born. Killian had many relatives in this area. We were expected and were invited into a school classroom where we were told about some of the challenges facing children living in such remote areas. It was several kilometres from the nearest school and, particularly in the rainy season, it wasn't safe for small children to walk to school, since they had to go near dangerous streams. They erected a two-roomed classroom to form a pre-school and grade 1. They lacked many of the resources needed – such as story books. The village has no clinic – the nearest is 15 Km away at Hatantola where it has a very basic clinic. The nearest hospital is Monze Mission Hospital 45 Km away – about two hours along a dirt road if you have a car. Probably an ox-cart would be usual means of transport.

Most children would never have a pair of shoes. Apparently we were the first Europeans ever to visit the village! An American had visited in the past!

On the journey Mrs. Sianga and Killian stopped regularly – the car often went very slowly, finding a suitable path along the dirt tracks, so it wasn't hard to stop and chat. We rarely seemed to pass anyone without greetings being exchanged. On the way back Mrs. Sianga told us that as a child most of this area outside Monze was a big forest with many wild animals. She also said that in the 60s there was trouble between rival political groups and, as children, they would flee into the forest to escape fighters. Often returning to find that family members had been killed.

We had a lovely picnic before returning to Monze. Sitting in the shade without any noise except for the birds.

Yesterday the children spent the morning playing another local school at football and netball. There were several matches representing the different age groups. PIZZ School performed well – particularly in the netball. There was tremendous excitement whenever a goal was scored – the pitch was invaded with dancing and cheering.

It has been a week when we have experienced different facets of life here in Zambia. The Siangas have been very gracious ensuring that Ben in particular experiences different aspects of life and that we appreciate some of the daily challenges that people face. I too have been reminded of the different aspects of life here and have seen new places – including the Sianga's farm, which I have nearly visited many times over the years!

Early in the week we heard from the caregivers. These women give up their time to act as the link between the school and the community. A small organisation from Italy which has been providing support over the years has cut back drastically in recent years. The caregivers do what they can to provide support to the vulnerable children, but there are always too many to cope with. They were keen to find ways in which they could generate a bit of income to help them meet more of the demands. We talked for a while and listened to their ideas. We will need to take the thoughts away and see how we can help them move forward.

It is always uncomfortable sitting in the middle, but that is where I live! The needs here are enormous and people are desperate not to abandon any of the children. On the other side I am told that money is hard to raise and we cannot keep meeting demands! I will do what I can and hope that I can make a difference to the lives of some of the children here in Monze.

Today was Ben's last full day in Monze. Tomorrow he is heading to Livingstone for a couple of days and will, more or less, just pass through on his way back to the UK and a very different world. I am sure that he has found the experience worthwhile. He has allowed himself to be touched by the people and their lives and we have all enjoyed his presence. I am sure he won't forget Monze and nor shall we forget him.

This afternoon we went to the showground and spent some time at the agricultural show.. It was interesting to see the variety of produce on display and there were a few other interesting stands as well as some music.

I am now going to see whether Helen is nearing home – it is 10 ½ hrs since she set off. I am sure that she will be hoping the finishing line is close!!

With love and prayers,

Chris