The Beginning of my Life in Zambia

 

The Beginning

A parishioner found my blog on our parish website and reminded me that it is time to post again.

My blog online goes back to 2007, but doesn't cover the first years, so I thought that it might be good idea to reflect on where my life in Zambia began.

In 2003 I set out with a team of 8 or 9 volunteers to travel to Zambia. The theory was that we were going there to build an ICU at Monze Mission Hospital.

Hands Around the World is a small charity which had been running for about 10 years. It was established by David Steiner after he spent a year with his family in Zambia. During the malaria season lots of children came to the hospital where he was working, and many died. He decided to set up the charity to do something to support children in the poorest areas of the world and try to make a difference.

Previously teams had been to Monze Mission Hospital and did some work to improve the laboratory and pharmacy buildings. Now you might wonder why a team of 8 or 9 people, often without any building experience, would be sent 5,000 miles to construct a building! This was my first thought when I first made contact with Hands Around the World. My next thought was there must be another reason for us to make the trip. I should point out that before going out the teams were given the task of raising sufficient funds to cover the cost of the trip.

So apart from building work – which in our case amounted to knocking down the wall of an existing building and collecting rubble to help form a base for the foundations! No we didn't get as far as seeing a concrete base laid! - our hosts were asked to give us the opportunity to experience a little of the daily life round us.

In 2003 even making a call to Zambia was very difficult. From what I recall, our visit was planned almost entirely using the postal system. If we were lucky we would get a reply to our letters within about 3 weeks!

We arrived At Lusaka airport in July and it was my first time on African soil. Even now when I arrive back in Zambia I am surprised. It is very familiar, but so much I have forgotten. Yes, the pleasant warmth is there, but there is so much more that it difficult to describe. The character of bird is sometimes referred too as it's zizz. Zambia has zizz! The colour, the sound and the smell is different and for me that has now become so welcoming.

I can't remember my first impressions. An international airport where our plane is bigger than all others and one of only a few without propellers, where you descend from the plane and wander across the tarmac to the arrivals building.

We were lucky – our last letter must have arrived, because there was a minibus to take us to our destination in Monze. For the next 3 – 4 weeks our home was to be a new guest house Nampeyo (now renamed moonlite because of a conflict of names!)– so new that some construction was still being undertaken. There were a couple of showers – though only one provided hot water. I got used to cold showers! It was quite basic, but sufficient.

Each day we work walk the kilometre or so to the hospital, returning to the guest house for lunch. One of the main jobs was helping to make concrete blocks for the foundations. I spent a lot of time with a young man called Obie. I remember he told me that the work was really too hard for him. He said that the calories he needed to make the blocks was more than those he obtained from the food he ate. I have no idea what that must be like. This was the first time I realised what poverty really meant – there would be many times in future years when I would be confronted with the reality of poverty in Zambia. I once read something written by Mother (now Saint) Theresa of Calcutta. She said “some people say that you should give people a fishing rod so they can catch fish, my God some people haven't enough energy even to lift the rod!” I know that this is literally true.

Working with Obie I began to realise why we were in Zambia. Spending my days chatting to Obie – telling him a bit about my life and learning about his set the pattern for the many future visits I would have. There is nothing better than sitting down with someone over a cup of tea or coffee and sharing stories. In fact I always say this is by far the most valuable thing I do on my trips.

I met a number of people on the building site and in the guest house and had a chance to build a relationship. Captain was the guy in charge of making the blocks – he is still around in Monze continuing this work. Lashford was in charge of the building of the ICU. He was lso involved in establishing and building an Evangelical church in Monze. Tragically a child of his was killed while very young in an accident. Chris was a general worker at the Guest House and is still there. Suki – another worker at the guest house – obtained a licence to drive lorries and travels the country as lorry driver. There are others from that period who I still meet from time to time when I visit. Obie has had various jobs selling mobile phones and accessories among other things.

The ICU was completed by local builders in 2006 and I was fortunate to be in Monze for the official opening. It is not a high tech unit as we would have in the UK, but there is a nurse on constant duty looking after no more than half a dozen patients. It will have saved lives.

One day we were asked to provide a volunteer. Somehow that turned out to be me! I was togged up in a gown and taken to the operating theatre where I was to witness a hysterectomy! I had never been present at an operation before and was surprised that a general anaesthetic was not administered – instead the operation was performed using an epidural. The surgeon was Irish and we had met previously. He gave me something of a commentary as he did his surgery!

The other time I volunteered had a more significant impact on me and I like to think it was the key factor which made me return to Zambia and get to know the people better. There was nurse working at the hospital in home-based care. Put simply her role was to visit the many people dying of AIDS and try to bring them a little comfort. She had no drugs other than a few paracetamol tablets.

So one afternoon I was asked to accompany Mrs. Sianga on her rounds. Firstly this took me away from the centre of town into the compounds where most of the local people live. A mixture of (burnt) brick and mud brick houses with either corrugated iron or grass thatched roofs. Generally very simple houses – many just a single room. I think that all the people I saw that afternoon were women and all were close to death – some had a week or two to live - others less. What astounded me was the way I was welcomed into their homes. It was a real privilege to share that time in what was a very personal and private space. I will always remember a lady who was waiting for her daughter to return with a little sugar she was going to beg from a neighbour to go with the nshima porridge (the staple food made from maize meal) she had cooked. The child – perhaps 9 years old, or younger was her mother's main carer.

Since that time I have made other visits with Mrs. Sianga and those working with her – fortunately the antiretroviral drugs mean that AIDS is no longer the death sentence it was in 2003. Each visit has taught me a little more.

Before we said goodbye to Zambia on that first trip, we spent couple of days in Livingstone and visited the Victoria Falls. I have never felt comfortable being a tourist in Zambia because most of my friends in Monze will never get to enjoy the beauty their Country has to offer.

I will end here because I want to devote my next blog to Mrs. Sianga and the work she has been doing since we first met.

Chris

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Visiting Friends

Monday 21^st May

Over the past couple of years I have been in Zambia at this time. It is now winter in Monze - temperatures can drop below 10°C at night which is cold if you have no mattress or blanket! In the UK, I have a friend who is terminally ill, so I will stay for now to provide a little support. My most important duty – as everywhere – is to be available for a cup of tea or coffee and a chat. Even better if we can find a pub with a garden when the sun is out!

My role with respect of Hands Around the World has changed in recent months. I decided to give up my formal duties as Trustee and Project Co-ordinator and to concentrate on being a friend to the people of Zambia. When I first went to Zambia I was told that it would cause problems if I said I was working – even doing voluntary work – I was told that I was going to meet friends. I felt a little uncomfortable and decided that I should therefore make a point of making friends in Zambia. Since that time I have made lots of friends. I then obtained a work permit (though now my main purpose was to meet friends!). Immigration officials queried why I had a work permit if I was retired! So now I will continue to go to Monze, but without an official role. My purpose will be to drink tea and coffee with friends – a very much underrated ministry!

Sometimes as I enter Zambia I hope they will challenge me to reveal the friends I claim to be visiting. I will then tell them about Captain who was in charge of making the blocks for building the ICU at Monze Mission Hospital in 2003; Lashford who was the builder in charge of the project; Obie one of my workmates; Suki and Michael who worked at Nampeyo Guest House or I could tell of my friendship with Mrs Sianga who has become an inspiration to me over the years. Most of these people I still meet when I visit Monze – and these are just some of those I met on my first visit in 2003. 15 years later, having spent well over 3 years in Monze I have met a large number of people who I now consider to be friends. I therefore have no problem in spending all my time visiting friends in Zambia.

Those who have followed some of my blogs will be aware that I am involved in a wide range of small projects beside those where I had an official Hands Around the World role. I have no intention of abandoning the HATW projects, but hope that with less pressure I will feel free to spend more time with other projects – and perhaps be able to relax a little more.

The children from PIZZ School will always be very important to me. Many I have known since they first came to the school as young traumatised children. I have seen them grow in confidence. At the school Mrs. Sianga and her staff have provided a very special caring and loving environment geared to each child as an individual precious life. To see how this nourishment has lit that beautiful spark, which is in all of us, bringing out the talents, joy, mischief and fun from within, is such a privilege and a truly life-giving experience.

The school is moving into a new phase. The earliest students have now left school. Some are making their way in the world – Boniface is earning his living as a singer and musician, others have jobs in shops and on building sites, one is a pastor. Mawini and Maxwell are at university. Some no doubt are struggling – unemployment in Monze is very high. About 80 children now attend local secondary schools and we hope to have a couple of students going into nursing this year.

It is my dream to enable all children from PIZZ School to fulfil their potential. My focus now is to raise funds to help ensure that all PIZZ Students who pass their grade 9 exams can continue their education in local secondary schools. School fees for each child are about £900 for the three years. I would also lhope that funds are found for further study or training for all who gain their Grade 10 Certificate. Then there are all those who are not academically gifted but still have a lot to give. We should be providing help for all. This is a challenge – but the difference we can make to the life of any child makes it so much worthwhile. I am so fortunate to be able to see the impact our support has had.

On Saturday here in the UK the sun shone non-stop. Most people were busy following the Royal Wedding, but my daughter was running 51.3 miles from Taunton to Minehead. My regular followers will remember that Helen attempted her first Ultra-marathon last year. She was ill for most of it and after 46 miles collapsed and was taken to hospital where she spent two nights. It was therefore very brave to attempt another 50 Miler! This time she kept going and finished the course. I am encouraging people to celebrate her courage by helping to fund at least one student to complete their secondary education. If you would like to contribute you can donate using this link: Helen's 50 Miler .

In April - on a day which was very hot – with temperatures up to 27°C – a bit like those regularly experienced to the children in Monze when walking to school - the children in Class 3 (yrs 3 & 4) at Temple Guiting School in Gloucestershire walked more than 10 Km – yes all of them!! They then had a meal of rice and peas instead of their usual dinner. They had been learning about life in Africa and wanted to do something meaningful and raise money to send a child from PIZZ School to secondary school. Their target was £800. In fact they raised £1,827.18 (with Gift Aid the total will be £2,169.48) - a really wonderful effort. As a result of this walk Rosario and Kyfod (former PIZZ School students) will be able to complete their education at a local Monze secondary school.

There is a lot of news about my friends in Monze which I will bring over the next week or so, but for now it's cheerio. With love and prayers,

Chris

Back in Chisamba

Friday 23rd April

It feels like I have been here in Chisamba for a long time – yet I only arrived yesterday evening. In many ways it is very good to be back. Life is more relaxed for me here. I have one project and not the numerous links I have in Monze. I am little way from the town centre and I am surrounded by fields. There are 300 chickens next door and the cicadas fill the night air with their calls and a few owls join in. During the day there is a rich variety of birds visiting and flying over the site. It is very peaceful.

I seem to have overwritten my last blog on the computer with the latest about the volcanic ash, so I am not sure where I left you! So I will assume that you already know about Tuesday – I'm not sure I can remember what happened then anyway.

Wednesday was my last day in Monze so I was rushing even more than usual. I was hoping for hospital transport so I paid it a visit, having discovered that Sr. Juunza was in Livingstone and couldn't organise it. Unfortunately there was nothing going on Thursday – so it would have to be the coach. I was expecting visitors throughout the day and had a number of tasks to achieve. In the end I managed to see Mrs. Sianga, collect her reports, leave her the copy of “The Shack” I left with Judy last year and take a picture of one of the students about to be sponsored through the HATW sponsorship scheme. Sr. Barbara caught me and told me I needed to see a guy called Cashias to talk about the database. So I squeezed in this extra appointment. Jennipher joined me at lunch. I was expecting a fax about solar lighting because she is being pressured to have power installed and can't afford Zesco electricity. Unfortunately the fax hadn't arrived. I went to pick up the photos with Jennipher in tow – since some are for her. Unfortunately they were not there – despite stressing that I needed them on Wednesday since I was off on Thursday morning. I don't think anyone has yet gone to Lusaka to have them printed. I decided to ask Jennipher to collect them sometime and pass those that don't relate to her to Fr. Maambo. I paid the guy – which was probably foolish!

Next stop Irene to collect my 2010 shirt and Dilys's blouse. Although I was already running late, so was Irene and I agreed to return at 18 hrs.

Teddy came around when I got back for a long overdue chat. He was quickly followed by Luke and, while we were sorting out a few things on the computer, Reymond arrived at his appointed time. By the time the three of us got to Irene it was 18.45. She was still outside Pick-a-Lot and had nearly finished the articles! We waited and, as usual, she had done a remarkable job. One more trip to the bank was needed before I left Monze. So by the time I arrived home – where I had left my now one and only phone – I was almost an hour late for my final appointment with Diven. We went to Tooters for a meal and couple of drinks. I was more or less packed and just did a last minute tidy and pack before bed.

On Thursday I woke before 6 hrs and went to mass. Fr. Maambo thought that I had gone on Wednesday, but seeing me asked if I wanted to take a few pictures off his computer. I always seem to have a flash drive with me, so I copied pictures of last year's parties and food distribution.

At 7.30 I rang the coach company using the number Judy had given me and tried to book a coach. I was told it was possible but wasn't sure that I succeeded in booking it! Back home after a quick breakfast I picked up half of the fax about solar. (Unfortunately I think the information I wanted was on the other half!) At 8.30 I set off for the coach – courtesy of a driver from Monze Diocese.

The 9.30 coach set off not long after 10 hrs and made good progress to Lusaka. We would have been at the coach station before 12.30 if we hadn't stopped to fill up! (These large coaches have big tanks!).

Justina met me at the coach station and negotiated for a taxi – apparently the price doubled when they saw me. Justin has recently retired. She has become concerned about the increasing number of abortions here in Zambia and wants to try to do something to tackle the problem. For many years Dilys and myself were involved in an organisation in the UK called LIFE that supports women throughout their pregnancy and beyond. Increasingly much of their work is now in post abortion counselling. I have put her in touch with this organisation and spent a while discussing her plans and my experience.

I left Justina with two suitcases and caught a bus to the next bus terminus – for the Chisamba bus. Usually I catch a small bus from a different bus station and was surprised when I was asked for twice the usual fare. I thought he too decided he could up the price when he saw me. He explained that the 'Rosa' buses charged the same price for anywhere on the way to Kabwe. (I am probably going less than half the distance.) Anyway – even with only one bag, plus backpack, plus laptop – I wasn't walking to the other station. The bus was almost full, so within 45 minutes or so we would be ready to set off. I sent a text to Dilys to see how she was and found out that she had been taken out to lunch. This led to a series of texts to Mary. I thanked her and described the scene at the bus station where I was being offered everything from cold drinks to watches and wigs. She found out that Zambia isn't quite so cut off and responded!

A short wait of 30 – 45 minutes at the crossroads for Justine and I was on my way back to the project and my other Zambian home here in Chisamba. It was probably a little after 7 pm when I found my rooms.

Today I pottered around sorting out a few things, catching up with my incoming mail and preparing a little for tomorrow's meeting with the management committee. The students are currently having a short break from lessons – though some were busy bringing in the harvest, much of which will be used to provide their lunchtime meal. I think I have enough provisions for the next few days.

It now seems that it is perfectly safe to fly through volcanic ash and really the recent saga has been quite unnecessary – so the chances of getting home on time are improving.


Saturday 24th April

We met with the Kaliyangile management committee this morning. Things are looking positive here and I am looking forward to the development of an excellent project.

I went for a short stroll this afternoon, but I haven't yet found any pathways into the bush. The grass is so thick and high that it would be difficult and foolish to try to make a pathway through it. I can see how animals can stalk their prey in this environment – if they can find it. Though I don't expect a lion to appear at any time – but it would be an interesting tale to tell. The site takes some beating for birds and general peace and quiet. One day I will borrow a bike and see where I can get to – the forest sounds good to me. In the meantime I will probably enjoy relaxing on the site.

I found a chicken escaping from the barn this morning and managed to persuade him to return (sorry 'her to return' - I don't think males are very good layers!). Yesterday it was a couple of young cows who were wandering in the garden. I wasn't exactly sure where they should be, so I recruited help and Davison guided them home. I have a good quantity of small (20 cm) lizards that scamper around my 'front door'. The larger variety – perhaps 1 – 2 metres I haven't yet stumbled across - though one is meant to be around.

The early mornings and evenings as the sun sets are magical times here. The light is wonderful and has a characteristic that I doubt you can find outside of Africa. The cool air adds to the glory of these times.




I am reminded of camping holidays because of the walk across the field to the toilet block. The stars are wonderful in the early morning and at the moment the moon is out of sight at this time, making many thousands more visible.

I think the European Swallows have left now, but there are still many other varieties around – the most common seems to be the Mosque Swallow which is bigger, but equally handsome. I am still having difficulty with the identification of many of the birds around here.

Sunday 25th April

Mass starts here at 8 hrs. Today we had a couple of young men with electric guitars and another with a smart small steel drum set to accompan the choir. By 10 30am I was free to enjoy the day. Uncharacteristically today has been cloudy throughout and I suspect that temperatures have barely reached 20 C. I finished my final novel today, unfortunately power was off all afternoon so I had only a short time on the computer.

Andy ran in the London Marathon today. By the end he was feeling rough but was determined to finish. He crossed the line after 4hrs.48 minutes and 3 seconds. Not his fastest marathon but he completed the course. If you would still like to support Andy's efforts and the work of Hands Around the World you can still log on to www.bmycharity.com/andybarrellmarathon and give a donation.

Best wishes

Chris