Jennipher Mukuni RIP

 In an earlier blog I wrote about my visit to Jennipher's village and in this blog I have to report that two days ago Jennipher was buried in the village after dying in a car accident last Wednesday.

I am still finding it hard to believe that Jennipher, who survived many health crises over the years was taken so suddenly in this way.

I was at Slimbridge with my wife Dilys when I heard the terrible news. I had spoken to Jennipher the day before because she was preparing for World AIDs day on December 1^st. She told me that I had forgotten her birthday – unfortunately I don't think she had a chance to spend her present. However since she died on my birthday, I will never forget the day of her death.

I first met Jennipher in 2004 when she was just starting treatment for AIDs. She had agreed to be open with her status and to encourage others to get tested and, where necessay, start treatment. This became her life's mission and she fought very hard for her clients.

Jennipher introduced me to many of the support groups she helped establish. She helped them access support from NGOs or the Government and made a huge difference to the lives of many. Some would not be alive today without Jennipher. She taught me, through engagement with her groups, to understand better what poverty looks like. When I heard a headmen say that they had decided not to get tested for AIDs because he knew that they could not find money to get to a clinic to collect the drugs and when ladies said they literally hadn't got enough energy to plant maize seed without extra food, I started to understand the reality of poverty.

For people living this sort of life the idea that they must contribute in order to obtain aid makes no sense. Without external help these people would continue in extreme poverty. Jennipher enabled me to help with a payment for transport or to provide the community contribution for a project. In this way a hundred pounds or two could become thousands and some of the poorest peope were able to have a borehole or maize and fertiliser, pigs, chickens, goats etc. and have a chance at least to have food for a while.

Jennipher was a very generous person taking into her home many orphaned children. I will always remember once, when she was talking to me, she told me that she had picked up a client with her bicycle-ambulance. The lady was in the final stages of pregnancy and she gave birth before reaching the clinic, she also died on the journey. Jennipher asked me what she should do. Of course I had no idea. She said that she was willing to look after the child at her home, but couldn't afford dried milk for the few months until the baby could take porridge. I was happy to be given the privilege of paying for a little milk and giving the child the opportunity of a resonable life. Jennipher brought up this little boy. He is now 10 years old and a great joy to know – I hope that along with the other children he will be looked after in the future, now that Jennipher is no longer around to support them. Jennipher's family is like an extension of my family and although I will do my best to continue to provide support the children it now now become more challenging.

In 2014 Jennipher was eventually granted a visa to visit the UK. She relished every moment, embracing all the new experiences, from double decker buses to the underground. She enjoyed visiting London – including Buckingham Palace, which she remembered when she watched the Queen's funeral in September. She found paddling in the sea a step too far, but bravely walked over the Millenium Bridge. She was pleased to be taken around a Leonard Cheshire Home by one of the residents in an electric wheelchair – something she had not seen before. She even visited Slimbridge and remarked about it during my past visit.

There is no doubt that Jennipher was a one-off. People who have encountered her will invariably remember her! In the early days of our friendship Jennipher was regarded by many as a great annoyance and irritation. If she wanted help for someone she didn't give up easily! I remember one day at the hospital a doctor asked me if Jennipher was annoying me. I responded “no, she is my friend”. In future years Jennipher was looked up to as a pillar of society and she was welcomed. For the past few years she was given a small salary for the work she did in the community. She has spoken on the local radio station, has been invited to talk in other parts of the Country and even invited to speak in neighbouring countries allowing her to travel quite widely.

I am proud to have known Jennipher and like to think that our partnership enabled us to do much more together than we could possibly have achieved independently.

Jennipher was a very special friend and I will miss her enormously. May she rest in peace.

With love and prayers,

Chris

My first weekend back in Monze

Sunday 27th September

It is now nearly 5pm on Sunday evening. The temperature is beginning to drop a little so is now probably below 30 C. The Jacaranda in the front is dropping its petals reminding me of the Derbyshire well dressings which comprise pictures made from the local flowers – here I have a rich blue carpet. There is more birdsong than most sounds, though the sound of children's voices is present most of the time in varying volumes.

Yesterday I set off for the parish just after nine with Natasha and found some lads busily cleaning and polishing Fr. Kenan's car – it seemed a shame to dirty it again. After putting in some petrol and finding an ATM that would give me some cash, we headed for Pemba – about 35km along the Livingstone Road. (calling in on Charles very briefly on the way.).This section is a good tarmac road remarkably free of potholes. Jennipher was waiting in town and took us first to look around the clinic before returning to her house. The clinic seems much more active than on my last visit. There are several rooms for files, testing (they also have equipment at the clinic to test for malaria). There are also counselling rooms etc. Jennipher was called away to deal with some matter (perhaps a client) while we waited in one of the counselling rooms.

Soloman and Selina were there to greet us when we arrived at the house. Selina was unusually quiet and not like the girl I left last year, I hope that she just felt a little shy with Natasha around. Soloman was also a little distracted – in his case he was concerned that they had had no water for 2 days and all the work he had done to grow his vegetables could be in vain. They have a good sized garden area that is used my Jennipher's family and her support group to supplement their diet.

Jennipher has two additions to her family since last year. Grace is an orphaned girl who told me that she is 15 years old. She was treated very badly by her relatives and Jennipher agreed to take her in about a month ago. Emmanuel (God with us) was named by Soloman. His mother died in Monze hospital and no one could locate any relatives so Jennipher also adopted this child of no more than 3 weeks. He is now two months old and looking very healthy. Initially he was provided with some powdered milk but this has run out and so has Jennipher's credit at the grocers! It's an expensive business having friends in Zambia – especially good natured friends like Jennipher!

Natasha immediately took charge of Emmanuel – since he slept till almost the moment we left, that was very far from a hardship.

Jennipher wants to register with an organisation that receives money from the Global Fund for food. She believes that she will then be eligible for support. She showed me the bricks that her support group have made for a shelter (just cement and roofing needed!). She also showed me the well that needs rehabilitation. Unfortunately projects rarely go smoothly here in Zambia. Although when I left a couple of years ago I understood we were within days of finishing the well, capping it and having a safe – fully enclosed - pump connected, it wasn't done. The result was damage during the floods and much more tragically one of Jennipher's children Chimunya fell into the well and drowned. The well is still open and I will do my best this year to ensure that it is rehabilitated and made safe. Unfortunately open wells are only one of many hazards for the people who live here.

Soloman offered us a chicken but Natasha couldn't bear to have the bird killed for our dinner and told him that she should be the one providing a chicken. I explained to Soloman that in England most people think that chickens only exist in plastic bags in supermarkets – we don't like to know that someone has to kill them for us to eat and we don't usually see them running around before they come to our plate!

Jennipher provided me with my second meal of sump since I arrived in Monze and Nataha's first for some time. Sump is a sort of pudding made out of partially pounded maize – it's amazing how many ways you consume maize here.

Eventually I prized Natasha away from Emmanuel and we headed back to Monze.

After depositing the vehicle and having a quick bite to eat I headed down the road to meet Edward, who is the head of Monze Basic. Monze Basic school is where I meet my first bit of tarmac from here and only a couple of hundred metres from my house.

I was surprised when Edward entered the room walking very slowly and looking a fraction of the man I left last year. He told me that he had a very serious attack of malaria three weeks ago. From the comments I heard it seems that there were even doubts that he would pull through. He spent some time at the hospital where I gather they gave him blood transfusions as well as other treatment for the disease.

He told me also that he is retiring on Thursday and so will not be working at the school any more. At least for the time being he will continue to live next to the school in what was the original school building.

While I was at Edward's Sr. Christeta rang. She is now at a village on the other side of Choma (about 100 km south of Monze.) She was returning from Mazabuka (60 km or so to the north) and wanting to stop off and say hallo. Sr. Christeta is a big bouncy woman who I thought of immediately when I read the description of a key character in a book I am currently reading.

She presented me with a bag of groundnuts (peanuts) and came in with a novice who was accompanying her. She told me that she has passed on the guidance that Dilys gave her in respect of child bereavement. Apparently they have regular sessions with orphaned children who are helped to tell their stories and they use the three stones as an aid as Dilys taught. They could do with some more material from Winston's Wish – perhaps we can sort something.

Time was pressing! I have known my friend Jeff since primary school and more than fifty years later he was celebrating his 60th birthday. (At this time he didn't know it – at least that was the plan). My plan was to go to the Internet café and try to set up a call with a web-cam. Well I managed to install the camera on the boss's computer but there was no working microphone and I didn't bring anything. Unphased, I attempted the call and seemed to connect but heard nothing. I cleared the call and Jeff called back! Still without sound in either direction. So I sent a message! Since everything else seemed to have failed, I decided to ring using my mobile. Eventually I was able to wish my friend a happy birthday. He couldn't work out how to send messages but eventually all was sorted and we went back to our respective computers. (He had no web-cam installed). We exchanged a few messages and I was also able to 'talk' to my friends Pete and Bob after correctly guessing who might be at the computer that end each time - I claimed access to the ubiquitous CCTV network in the UK. So the objective was achieved - I had at least made contact during the party - though perhaps not in quite the manner intended.

It was after 20.30 before I started preparing supper.

I arose this morning a little after 7 hrs and had my cornflakes. (It surprising how comforting a bowl of cornflakes is here!). Not working at the hospital has disturbed my usual pattern so this morning I made my first visit to the chapel this year. I was delighted to see Bright on duty at the hospital entrance. He has a son Brian who I know has been doing well at school over the years and his Dad is very proud. Keeping a child at Secondary school on a security guard's pay is very difficult.

My next encounter was with Mr. Lungu – one of the hospital drivers. He told me that his wife lost her father last week. A little further I was greeted by Ennias who is an uncle to Fr. Kenan and also to Lillian. Last year one of the volunteers was keen to meet Ennias because she had a gift from a friend who knew him when she (the friend) worked in the Pharmacy at the hospital. (Don't worry I think I am lost as well!) Suffice it to say that it is a small world. Ennias has a new car this year. I understand that he had an accident at work, some years back, leaving him paralysed from the waist down. He is able to drive his adapted vehicle and therefore have considerable independence. I am sure this is very rare in Zambia.

At last I covered the 150 metres from the gate to the chapel and took my seat. On each of the benches I was surprised to see the prayer stations that I brought out several years ago. (Fr. Rodgers says another set wouldn't go amiss if they're available!)

It was good once again to hear the joyous singing and drumming and watch the dancing that characterises services here in Zambia. It was also good to shake hands with all around me - sharing the peace of the Lord. One year when I was hear in Monze I shared a house for some time with a foreign doctor who told me I shouldn't shake hands because everyone was carrying diseases. At home in England at our church the fear of spreading swine flu has taken precedence over the sign of peace. Personally I think that friendship and God's peace are worth a slight risk.

I realise that I haven't had a break since I arrived in Zambia so I decided to take it easy and other than briefly popping around to Edward with a card reader (which seems to be faulty) and doing a little washing and tidying, I took it easy for the rest of the day.

Having no TV or radio gives me more time and allows me to read a little. I have often found that books given to me to read generally prove to be better than those I choose myself. This year my friend Mary lent me a book called “The Shack”. (I don't think she'll get it back, it's too good not to leave here!) It is about a man who spends a weekend with God. If you wonder what God is really like I would recommend you read this book. It won't appeal to everyone, but it is clear to me that the author has met God and those who have also spent a day or two is his/her presence will surely recognise their God here.

With my love and prayers


Chris

Arrived Safely

Tuesday 22nd September

Once again I am back in Monze. This year I am staying on the East of the town behind the police station. The accommodation is bigger and more luxurious than I need! This is the first time I have arrived to find hangers for my clothes – though I can't open the wardrobe and there aren't any cupboards. Still I have a large lounge and kitchen, and two bedrooms. Apparently the previous occupants left earlier than expected so the place would otherwise be paid for and left unoccupied until the end of October. Anyway it suits me fine. It is semi-detached so I better keep the noise down or I'll disturb the neighbours! They are a couple of VSO volunteers who must have arrived in Monze just after I left last year. The main thing is that I am within easy walking distance of the town centre, so I can get out and about and others will have no difficulty in finding me.

When preparing for this trip, I managed to have my bags more or less packed a couple of days in advance but wasn't sure how many bags to take. I checked in online and printed my boarding card – I do enjoy being able to look at the plan of the plane and choose my seat. When I was asked how many bags I wanted to check in I ticked one and immediately wondered if I had made a mistake (I was entitled to two 23kg bags but don't think I believed it until the last moment).

At the last moment my daughter Barby had doubts about the wisdom of taking me to the airport because she thought she might infect me with whatever disease she was suffering from. So yesterday I arrived at the bus stop to catch the 12.30 to Heathrow with my slightly less than 23kg bag, heavy hand luggage and laptop. Looking at the timetable I saw that the bus went to terminal 5. So I met the friendly bus driver and asked for confirmation that he was going to terminal 5 – he kindly responded “if you wanted to go to terminal 5 why didn't you book it to there!” he then picked up my case and told me it was lots over 20kg which was his limit and he could hurt his back – then what would happen! So feeling full of joy I set of on my expedition.

I arrived at terminal 5 four hours before the plane was due to depart and an hour before I could leave my bag. (I could have used that hour walking from Heathrow Central bus station.)

The bag drop went smoothly without any questions about why I had no visa. But I had all my suntan lotion, shampoo etc. confiscated at security! (I knew that I should have checked that bag in too!) Still not to worry - a quick trip to Boots on the other side of security and I was re-equipped.

The plane left the gate just a little after the due time. I can't help compare the experience of Heathrow and Lusaka airports! We made our way towards the runway and joined a queue of at least six planes waiting to take off. As the Japanese Airlines plane in front of us left the ground, we immediately chased it down the runway and took off into the evening sunset, then turned left to go south and followed this direction until we arrived in Lusaka.

I never find sleeping easy on planes, but despite have two seats to myself, I didn't get anything but a few doses until we were woken just before 4 am BST for breakfast.

We landed on time in Lusaka as the sun was rising. The temperature we were told was 19 C – it was 6 am local time. We walked down the steps onto the concrete apron. (In Lusaka the planes 'park' in an area in front of the airport buildings making sure to turn so that they can make an easy exit back to the runway without any need to reverse.) The passengers wandered in the general direction of the airport buildings – the person in front seemed to know where to go! - and we found our way to arrivals and immigration control. I was immediately picked out by someone, who appeared to be in a nun's habit, who sent me from the 'with permits' to 'Zambian nationals' queue. So for the second year running I was welcomed as a Zambian and no question of needing a visa! I knew that all would be well!
I had told the hospital not to bother to come early, so when there was no one to meet me, I was not perturbed. I settled myself in the airport cafe and watched the occasional plane land or take off. For the first time in days I felt really relaxed. I watched the British Airways plane that I arrived on take off at 9 am – as it made it's short journey from its parking spot, a car preceded it down the whole length of the runway, perhaps driver was just interested to see what speed he could reach on a good staight road! Fortunately the plane didn't manage to catch it – quite!

I decided to check on my lift, but before I could use the new Sim card in my mobile, I was spotted by friends from Monze, who said that they arrived about twenty minutes earlier but didn't check the cafe upstairs. Lwindi (the driver) took us on a wonderful trip to Lochinvar National Park last year and Bimbi, a secretary from the hospital who has recently been involved at Buntolo where the hospital has various HIV/AIDS projects, was getting a lift back to college in Lusaka.

Needless to say there were a few jobs for the hospital staff to do before returning to Monze so I chose to meet up with Diven, a friend I met in 2003 when he was a patient at the hospital. He was to meet me at 11 hours and I was to be picked up at 12 hours for the return trip to Monze. Diven arrived at 11.30 and I was picked up at 14 hrs - so all was well! I was pleasantly surprised to arrive at Monze Hospital before 5pm (17 hrs).

On the journey back I saw familiar scenes. In Zambia pied crows replace our carrion crows, even around Lusaka birds of prey circle and on the power cables the occasional roller sits in all its glory. The Jacaranda trees are a picture at this time of year with their deep blue flowers and Lusaka has a godd display.

The road to Monze has largely been resurfaced since last year (200 kms of it!) so the journey back was much swifter and less hazardous than last year. The bits that haven't been resurfaced still bear the faded white lines – I suppose the new surface will also get lines one day. The standard speed limit on the single carriageway roads in Zambia is 120km per hour or 75 mph slightly higher than on UK motorways! The roads even when resurfaced are not quite as good and there are always issues of animals on the road and vehicles that have the odd defect ( it is usual for vehicles to have many cracks across the windscreen. I noticed one car today where the whole windscreen was shattered – though somehow the glass held in place – it didn't seem to significantly slow him down.)

As I got out of the car at the hospital I heard a familiar voice and Jennipher came and threw her arms around me. After a while, and a few more hugs, I was shown to my new lodgings.

A few cups of tea, a short power cut and I feel at home. For probably the first time in Monze I have unpacked my cases and am ready for a bath and bed (I'll let you know next time whether hot water comes out of the taps!)

Good night and God bless you

Chris