The Journey

 

My bus was scheduled for12 noon from Cheltenham.

I decided that I had plenty of time to go to mass before setting off. The church I go to most frequently now is Sacred Heart's church in Charlton Kings – about 2 miles from my house. There is a pleasant walk which takes me through Cox's Meadow - an open space which was developed a few years back to provide a water catchment area to prevent local flooding.

The weather has been remarkably warm for October – with temperatures in the low 20s – I would soon be experiencing such low temperatures only in the middle of the night! My walk was very pleasant and I arrived at church feeling refreshed. It was great to be greeted at church by my good friends Mary and Dominic.

We had the Gospel reading about Mary and Martha. Fr. Mark concentrated on the fact that Mary was worrying about so many things. This resonated with me. Particularly since Covid, I find myself stressing about the most trivial things. I was about to travel 5,000 miles where there would many potential challenges!

Dilys picked me up after mass and before long I was at the bus station. (The car started, no flat tyres etc.!!!) We arrived at Heathrow on time after an uneventful journey. My plane wasn't due to take off for 4 hrs so I had plenty of time. The first job was to transfer to terminal 4.

As I headed for the lift a young lady was a bit confused as to how to get to terminal 4. I suggested that she came along with me as I was heading there myself. The process is quite straightforward – if you have done it several times, have no problem with the English language and can cope with limited signing! I don't think the lady was sure that I knew what I was doing, but she continued to follow my lead as we wended our way towards the Heathrow Express. I picked up some tickets and we took the train to terminal 4. She was heading back to Tunisia and the check in desks were in area E as were those for Kenya Airways. Feeling rather proud of myself I took her into the queue for Kenya Airways!! Fortunately I realised very soon that there was a barrier between the two sets of check-in desks and was able to guide her back into the correct queue.

I really believe that the Lord is behind my work in Zambia, like Mary I worry about so much. He tries to teach me that most issues are trivial or can easily be overcome – there were many examples as I filled my cases before the trip, such as items that I needed but didn't have time to buy which just appeared in front of me at the appropriate time. In the best times my relationship with God is one where there are plenty of jokes and laughter. I am regularly brought down to earth when my head gets too big!!

Check in was straightforward except that I was told to take my soft bag to another conveyor belt which I was told was very fast! It seemd that this belt was specifically for oversized items. I think that the way I packed my bag made it wider than normal! Anyway the bag vanished without a problem!!

As usual new boarding passes were printed despite me printing some at home. Security was straightforward, though I felt the need to go back to make sure that I hadn't left anything in my tray. I sat down and checked that I had my passport and boarding card only to realise that somehow I had lost my boarding card! I could only think that, despite checking, it must have been left at security in the tray. The security officer hadn't seen it, but said that they would print another card at the boarding gate.

Of course there was no problem and I relaxed once I knew that it could be easily resolved. My flight to Nairobi set off at about 6.30pm as scheduled. I had an aisle seat since there was little to see during the night and I was able to get up and down without disturbing anyone. I tried to dose a little but with breakfast at 1.30/2.00 am BST there is little chance of sleep. We touched down at 5 am (3 am BST)

On the flight to Lusaka I had booked a window seat. I felt bad asking a lady to move so that I could have my seat. I explained that I was hoping to see Kilimanjaro. I had judged correctly and was on the correct side of the plane . As we approached Kilimanjaro – not long into the journey - the sky was completely covered with cloud. However, the peaks in the Kilimanjao range emerged beyond the clouds providing a spectacular and memorable view.

We arrived at Lusaka on time at 9 am. With the new terminal, extra staff and equipment I was through immigration and customs and out of the airport building before 9.30. A taxi driver was waiting for me and yes the price had gone up to K600 – a little under £25.

I approached the Intercity Bus Station with trepidation, but before we could turn in, a guy put his head through the driver's window and said “Shalom to Livingstone” – exactly what I wanted. We easily kept other offers at bay. I asked what time the next bus left – it was almost 10.30 am - and was told 12.30. I agreed, but another guy said that the 9.30 Shalom bus was just about to leave if I was ready. Before I knew it the cases were on their way to the bus and I had my ticket. We left just after 10.30am!!

Other than having to sit next to a guy who hardly fitted on the two seats leaving me less than half a seat!! the journey was uneventful. Despite greatly improved roads it still took us 4 hrs to reach Monze. However getting to Monze at 2.30pm must be a record.!!

Chris

Back to the sandals

Wednesday 24th March

It has been dry since Saturday and conditions around Kaliyangile are much improved. I can now venture out without my wellingtons.

On Monday I woke to find that we had no power. So Justine suggested that the trip to Lusaka I had scheduled for Tuesday should be brought forward. I checked that Diven was well again and Justine took me to Chisamba crossroads where there was a bus waiting. The bus moved off picking up passengers as we went and was soon full (but in my experience not excessively so). There was the usual assortment of luggage, including a couple of live chickens. As we approached the first police check point we stopped and a few passengers were encourage to leave! They joined us the other side of the check point having passed by on the other side of the road, where there was a path behind some tall grass. At the next check point everyone stayed on board and we were ushered through without any problem.

In Lusaka I found an Internet cafe and sent an e-mail. The network seemed quite good but I probably spent an hour, sent one e-mail (without attachments – they failed) and got as far as my blog but couldn't log in! This is very much the reality here and I am not aware of another Internet cafe closer to Chisamba. (Lusaka is at least 50 – 60 miles away). While in Lusaka I received the very sad news that the mother of my best friend Jeff, from my school days, had died. I am very sorry that I won't be able to attend the funeral. Throughout much of our schooldays we spent the holidays at my house or, more often, his. I got to know his mother over this period and she was always ready to welcome me and make me at home. She will be sadly missed.

I met Diven at CHAZ which has become our regular meeting place – one that both of us know well. We headed to the shops where Spar is sited, where we can eat and were the MTN offices are. MTN is one of three telecoms network providers in Zambia. The Zambian state-owned provider doesn't provide a signal in Chisamba or I would be inclined to use them. My objective was to obtain a modem that would connect Kaliyangile to the Internet. A similar device from the other provider had stopped working and the current view is that MTN is a better bet. The girl behind the counter assured me that it would work fine and that it only cost 2,000 kwacha (30p) an hour after the initial cost of 800,000 kwacha for the modem and SIM card. Unfortunately I was in a queue with only one assistant so I didn't feel able to quiz her extensively and hoped I could check it out before I left Lusaka.



After some chicken and chips Diven led me to his shop/house. (He sleeps behind the counter because he doesn't want to leave the premises unguarded – he couldn't afford rent on a house anyway!) It is quite a trek to his place in one of the compounds in Downtown Lusaka. I have never seen another 'white' face in this area in normal times – but Lusaka has been suffering from a lot of flooding and these are not normal times. We soon come across a small stretch of water and I have to revive my skills at jumping between stepping stones. Some of the surrounding homes are submerged in water – in places a metre or so high – window level. The water is far from clean so there is a constant stench in this area. We have to negotiate several more shallow lakes before arriving at his shop. The real art is jumping onto a stepping stone where there is already a sitting (though hopefully standing!) tenant, without both of you ending in the drink! I arrived with relatively dry feet but didn't relish the return journey. Of course those who live here have this and often much worse trials to overcome every day during this period.

Diven's shop is not making any money – barely covering the rent, if that. So he plans to move back to Monze where things were a lot better. He has power so I connect and install my modem. I seem to have a network connection but failed to get on the Internet before deciding it was time once again to brave the waters.
The foot traffic (not that there is much else around here) was all in the other direction on the way back and at the largest crossing there was a jam. Diven did his best to quell the tide but it was only with careful negotiating and much sharing of stones that we made it across.



At about 18 hrs I hopped onto a bus – having refused to get on the empty bus that was apparently going to Chisamba sometime! We moved off without being full – but very slowly. On the outskirts of town we pulled into a lay by. My fellow passenger in the front seat told me we had to get off and on to the bus conveniently empty in the same lay by. We had broken down! After five minutes we all got back onto the original bus because there was a dispute between drivers over the fares. Fortunately our bus now seemed to work fine!! The driver obviously didn't want to take the bus to Kabwe and I wasn't sure how far we would get – especially when we stopped at the next garage to check the tyre pressures. However, after matching the front tyre pressures (there was a difference of 10psi) there was no further incident – just a bit of banter between driver and passengers.

Justine was waiting at the crossroads and I was soon back home, having replaced the talktime I had left with Diven by mistake!

It would be Tuesday afternoon before my modem jumped into operation and I was able to connect to the Internet.

It was good to wake up to sunshine on Tuesday morning – more like the Zambia I have come to know and love. I hope that the dry weather has also impacted on those in town flooded out – at least it won't be getting worse since water is no longer flowing. At last I am able to make a bit of progress with updating the accounting system I installed in November.

Although all the sockets here seem to have 3 'square' pin outlets, many of the appliances have 2 round pin plugs. I learnt very early on how to reconcile the two (suffice it to say that it is better to facilitate the connection using plastic rather than metal!) It is also a strange fact that most 3 pin plugs need skilful adjustment for them to make an electrical connection. It was only on Tuesday morning that I linked the two facts and realised that the connectors in the socket were being forced apart by the oversized round two pin plugs! A little later I experienced a common consequence of this situation, when I couldn't extract my plug from the socket however hard I tried. In adjusting the plug it is common to hear a crackling sound as sparks fly, sometimes if the connection is not good this can continue. Many plugs here have a plastic insulation on the pins and, subjected to very high temperatures, this melts and welds plug and socket together – the exact phenomenon that I had just experienced!! Unfortunately I will not be using the kettle tonight!

Tuesday was also my grandson Jack's birthday (apparently he likes the blog – at least some of the photos!). I just had enough battery life to make an elementary card and e-mail it - now that my modem is working.

Again sunshine greeted me this morning. I had a new shirt to wear – presented yesterday by the tailor who made it during the past couple of days and I was also given back my sandals that had been repaired by one of the students after the strain they suffered in Lusaka on Monday. I have been suffering through lack of caffeine and so I am relieved when Moses came to replace my plug and socket. Moses told me he was a Jehovah's witness and the repair probably lasted twice as long as as usual as we shared our views of Christianity. At lunchtime I was treated to a very large portion of nshima and beans, with an additional cassava leaf relish. With an effort I consumed it all but declined further nshima for supper. I think we have agreed that I will have food prepared by the cook at lunchtime during the week and look after myself otherwise. If not I will gain a couple of stone instead of losing it on this trip!

I am getting to know some of the students now – though I can't remember their names. I walked into town yesterday with the girl students who were very interested to know more about England. This afternoon I popped into one of the classrooms and chatted to some of the lads. They are a lively bunch and are a delight to be around.

With any luck I will connect to the Internet and be able to send a mail and post this blog. Then I can read a little more of my John Grisham novel, have a brief look at the stars – the Southern Cross is very prominent at the moment – and hide once more under the mosquito net.

Bets wishes

Chris.

Monze Rally

Monday 2nd November

I am finding it a little difficult remembering what day it is!

It seems like a week since I was in Monze yet it was only yesterday that I left for Lusaka, to return this evening.

Friday seems a very long time ago! I spent the morning sorting out the Personnel database to produce a new report that the Province requires, having picked up as much information from spreadsheets to produce an up to date database. After lunch I needed to go to the Internet café, call into the hospital and then set off to see Charles. In fact this order was dictated by the fact that the hospital staff would be away at lunch and meant an extra kilometre or two as I would need to double back on myself. In the event the Internet café had no Internet, as opposed to the other day when it had no power! I was two early for the hospital so I walked with my backpack and laptop to the market to buy a few bits and pieces essential to life here – like mayonnaise (particularly for lunchtime visitors – now a favourite and a must!) and enough cornflakes for my last 11 days in Monze.

I called at the hospital but personnel in Human Resources there were none. Now being heavily ladened, I headed home and dropped my groceries. Charles was waiting for me just after 15 hrs when I arrived. I have always enjoyed talking to Charles and sharing thoughts about his project, Monze and the world. I started by showing him a selection of photos of my family taken back in the UK and a few places that we have visited. One of my aims with Charles is to look at the business side of his project and discuss ways to generate greater profit to support his elderly and disabled clients. Last year I was interested in seeing what his clients could do to help support themselves. I asked what they did to socialise or entertain themselves and was told that they tell stories. So I have asked Charles to collect some stories and memories from his clients so that I can read them. I am personally very interested in what stories they tell. I have heard a few African stories that are moral tales – a bit like fables. I am also interested about some of the memories from some of the elderly people who will have lived through some very different times in the history of what is now Zambia. It seems to me likely that others might also be interested – so if all goes well I would like to produce some leaflets – or a book! - and sell them, the profit going to PEASSA (The charity Charles runs) to support his clients.

I think that too often – especially in our so-called developed world we don't value our older people highly enough. There is often great knowledge and wisdom held by these people and sometimes when they die we allow some of what we are die with them. I worry here that the changes and the devastating effects of AIDS on a generation will lead to the loss of much of the rich culture here – and part of that is the storytelling. It would be good to at least record as many of these tales as possible – though it would be good to see the oral tradition continue.

I thought that it would be particularly quiet at my house this weekend as the Australian girls next door were heading for Livingstone and Victoria Falls. So I was surprised to see the gate open on Friday after returning from my wander in town. Someone was cleaning the building at the bottom of the garden. In the afternoon a family arrived in their 4x4 and started moving into the back garden. Some into the building and others erected a tent!

Saturday was a day of great excitement in Monze. Most of you will have heard about the Monte Carlo Rally – but not everyone will be aware of the annual Monze Rally. Fuel had been put aside for the rally cars that had been arriving in town over the past few days. I went to the 7 hrs mass at the chapel and then picked up my camera and followed the gathering crowd to Monze Golf Course. I realise that I haven't told you a lot about this other side of life in Monze. I am sometimes surprised myself to realise that there are a few that enjoy a good life here in the town. It is of course a life that I and most of you are used to back home.

As we got closer to the golf course and the clock got ever nearer to 8 hrs. the pace of us in the crowd quickened and a few ran the last metres.

The golf course was packed with an expectant crowd. The rally cars were parked and soon started rolling onto a ramp – presumably for scrutiny before going to the start line. Then one by one they roared into action leaving clouds of brown dust as they skidded their way around a short tight course carved out of the golf course. I found a vantage point that allowed me to see some of them skid spectacularly before I was covered by a thick cloud of dust. The lady next to me covered herself with her chitengi each time a car passed by. After about half an hour all the competitors had been around the course and they headed 10 km up the Lusaka road to Moorings campsite where they would spend the afternoon. Mr. Meheritona wanted to take me with him but he couldn't get fuel for his car. As an official at the event he was allowed to jump on a truck – but unfortunately I wasn't allowed to join him. In the event I found I had more work to do than I realised, so spent a few profitable hours on my computer. I had enjoyed watching the rally section at the golf course and was well satisfied.

I found the Internet café in operation in the afternoon and returned just after the rally cars had returned to Monze and were on their way home.

It is already late so it will be tomorrow before I can fill in the next couple of days and no doubt Wednesday before I will post this blog.


Tuesday 3rd November

On Sunday I decided to go to the 7.30 mass at the Cathedral. David was due to arrive at Lusaka airport just after 12hrs but I decided that it wasn't critical to be there at the airport when he arrived – since Fr. Tim would be picking him up.

It was good to attend an English Sunday mass again. The 1st November is a day when the Catholic Church celebrates the feast of All Saints. Saints are those people who are now able to experience the full presence of God. At one time there seemed to be a view in the church that this privilege was only for the few and certainly not for anyone who wasn't Catholic. I believe that we live in a rather more enlightened age where we recognise that god speaks to people in many different ways. He is a God of love and compassion who is far more forgiving than any of us can be. I suspect that we would have to work very hard to avoid this wonderful gift of joy that will come after we part from this life. So there are many saints that I have known and I hope that they will have a quiet word with my God to help me keep on the right track. I am very aware that only by having God work through me, here especially, will good come of my efforts.

After mass it is straight up to Tooters Roadhouse to catch a big bus. I didn't bother to book last night thinking that I would have a choice in the morning. (And being too lazy to go for a 3km walk!)

I was informed by the man at the wooden booth selling Shalom tickets that the 9.30 Mazhandu Family Bus was full and that he had only 3 seats left for the Shalom bus that left at 10.30. I realised that if I caught the 10.30 bus I would be too late to meet David at the airport, but a word with Mazhundu confirmed the position and I had little choice (unless I wanted to risk hoping a Rosa would pass). So I settled down with a Cabana (Zambian milkshake or smoothie) and waited. I was a bit surprised that they don't sell papers at Tooters – which is effectively the bus station for the big buses (coaches) in Monze. However, by now I should know better. There is a culture of allowing everyone to have a chance here and find a little niche. So after a while a guy came along with a bundle of papers that would help him put a bowl or two of nshima on the table. So I took the opportunity to catch up with Zambian politics.

One of my 'missing' friends Towera appeared and came over to greet me. Towera has been working as a receptionist/secretary at the hospital in previous years but is now training as a Physiotherapist. She had come down to Monze for a couple of days and was also heading back to Lusaka – but had a ticket for the 11.30 Mazhandu Bus. Towera's father is Soloman Phiri – the Diocesan Projects Manager.

The 10.30 coach arrived at about 11.15 and left just before 11.30. So it was 14 hrs before I arrived in Lusaka. A taxi to Regiment Parish (Charles Lwanga Catholic Church) in the suburbs of Lusaka cost almost as much as the fare from Monze to Lusaka. When I arrived, Fr. Timothy told me that David's plane had been delayed so we wouldn't be leaving for the airport for another hour or so. In the event we we left a couple of hours later and not surprisingly David was already waiting for us. David left the UK two weeks previously to look at projects in Uganda and Rwanda and had spent the night travelling and waiting for planes.

David and I had some time to discuss the Zambian projects in the evening before he turned in for his first opportunity for some decent sleep in a couple of days.

Monday I was up by 5.30 so that we could head off for the airport by 6.00. Tony arrived with the car promptly at 6 hrs and we weaved our way across Lusaka arriving at the airport by about 6.40am to find Kevin (whose plane touched down at 6.20) waiting, having already been to the bank.

Jennipher was quite ill last year and needed some treatment for stomach problems. A specialist from South Africa has been attending to her and he was in Lusaka. We needed to met briefly so we met at the Inter-City bus stop. (Inter City is the main terminus for coaches in Lusaka and coaches go all over the country from here and into the neighbouring countries.) Jennipher joined us for breakfast of tea, omelette and bread which arrived promptly – after about 45 minutes!

Our next stop was Chisamba. We met with Godfrey and Moses and had a fruitful discussion about the plans for the project. Kevin, as always, was very supportive and confirmed his commitment. We had arranged to meet the new Manager, Justine, for lunch. So we adjourned to Fringilla – a very nice hotel with plenty of tables outside under the shade of a variety of trees. Patrick joined the party for lunch and we continued to get to know each other better and enjoyed a good meal.

Justine had come down from the Copperbelt that morning to join us – a 3 ½ hour journey. With David I had agreed the importance of meeting him and getting him to start work immediately. This has led to a change in my plans. So instead of leaving Monze next Thursday I will leave on Monday morning so that I can spend a few days in Chisamba with Justine! This means the office work I needed to do in 5 days now will have to be completed in two! How I will fit in my other projects and make sure I say goodbye to everyone I don't know – I am sure that, as usual, much will be left incomplete.

After a good lunch we headed for Monze – arriving just before 19hrs with the Southern Comfort Motel in darkness. Fortunately a generator soon kicked into action and we were soon enjoying yet another cooked meal. I then returned to my place with Tony(our driver) who was going to use my spare room.

For Tuesday I had arranged a busy schedule – seeing Mrs. Sianga and the school in the morning, followed by Sr. Christeta and finally in the afternoon Mrs. Chiiya and the VIM project. As usual the children entertained us at the school where there are now a total of nearly two hundred – all orphaned or otherwise disadvantaged. It is great to see the building, erected with help from a Hands Around the World team last year, being well used. In January an additional class of children will start at this building. The project here is definitely making a difference to the children here, without it they would have very little chance of an education. One of the teachers who used to reach the older grade 12 students at another school told me that the grade 8 students here were, in some ways, more advanced than his former students. The children certainly seem keen and very happy here. However, coming from very difficult backgrounds, school attendance can be difficult, so the school has voluntary 'care givers' who will follow up on absentees, find out the issues and try to get them to return to school. This is a vital service that helps the school to function properly and the students to obtain the standards required.

Sr. Christeta is a very bubbly lady who enjoys a joke and light hearted banter with Kevin. Like many she has come to know Kevin and David over the years. She made the trip from beyond Choma (100 km) to meet up with them this year. She was able to tell us how the hospital's project for orphaned and vunerable children was working. The guardians have produced items for sale – and I picked up my bag containing all 82 baskets they had in stock plus a few bags and aprons. Some children are also sponsored through their education and we were given details of a couple of them. She also said how child counselling (introduced in 2006 by Dilys) is now an important part of their work.

Finally we met Mrs Chiiya and her husband who brought us up to date with their project. They have about 100 students in years 9, 10 & 11. Of these about 30 are unable to contribute towards their education but are still accepted for their study. In addition to they receive some training in carpentry and gardening. We saw a class that had made sieves that are used for maize and to remove unwanted bits and pieces from other foods. The idea is to give 'life skills' alongside academic studies. Most students pay to come to the VIM school – at least a little. This enables the school to function and for others who are unable to pay to also learn. HATW has provided much of the infrastructure, but in the main the school is now self – sustaining so our future role will be maintaining a general interest, rather than active involvement – unlike the Maluba/PIZZ and Kaliyangile projects.

Mr. & Mrs. Sianga joined us for a meal in the evening and it was close to 22 hrs when I arrived back home with Tony.

Best wishes

Chris

A quick visit to Lusaka

Friday 9th October

Sometimes God decides to give us a gift as a pure gesture of his love.

In 2004 I had a lot of problems trying to extend my visit to Zambia. At one point I was declared a “prohibited immigrant” and told to leave the country by midnight or I would be arrested. This was subsequently (and fortunately very rapidly) sorted out. However, any trip to immigration now makes me anxious.

On this visit it appears that the Lord has taken control of the immigration system for me. In the past when things have gone smoothly I have sat for hours waiting for people to arrive and sometimes have to return on another day – requiring another 280 mile round trip. (I don't want to think about the times when they didn't go smoothly.) So far this year every time I arrive unannounced the guy I need to see seems to be waiting, forms appear immediately and queues are for everyone else but not for me.

So despite the obvious signs that everything is in good hands, I awake just after 5 hrs and leave just before 6 hrs anxious about the day ahead at immigration. As I get to the main road there is a Rosa bus pulling out of the petrol station. I wave and the conductor confirms that he is leaving for Lusaka. OK Lord so you have also provided transport.

I jumped aboard and we took off immediately – like a rocket – for Lusaka. I suspect that the driver was really heading for Livingstone, but to get good value he needed to reach Lusaka at a good time to make the return trip. Most buses rattle a bit. I thought that they had sorted the road to Lusaka – but this vehicle didn't know it. A few times I clashed with the window when our respective motions brought us to the same point! We stopped anywhere if it looked like a possible fare might board. It seemed that there were also a few regulars for this morning express - at one point the driver backed up a dirt road to meet passengers heading his way. Despite the stops and detours we reached Lusaka by 8.45 and I was at the CHAZ offices at 9hrs.

Chris was at his desk apparently waiting for me and before 10 hrs we were at the central immigration offices. He was directed to a room were two men were sitting opposite a man at his desk. Despite appearances they said they weren't waiting. So my file was presented, the guy at the desk seemed quite uninterested, I didn't see him look beyond the application form at the front of the file. He scribbled something on top of the form and told Chris to go to the cashier. Here we probably waited two minutes before the cashier issued the all important receipt. On returning to the 'room' Chris was told he would have to wait 14 days for the application to be processed – I am not sure he noticed I was there at all! So by just after 10.30 I was leaving the CHAZ office (which is on the other side of town to the Immigration Office) with my receipt and all I need to do is to call at the immigration office after a couple of weeks to pick up my extended work permit.

Diven is still having problems with his phone despite a new battery so I failed to meet up with him and for once I had time to spare. I visited an Internet café and had a bite to eat, then decided to find a bus to return to Monze. I have been dropped off this year along the Kafue Road just before the town centre. Since this is the road to Monze I decided not to go to the bus station I have previously used, but to try my luck here.

Today I will use the opportunity to describe the journey from Lusaka to Monze. So please bear with me as I leave you with this brief travelblog.

I approached the conductor of a likely looking Rosa bus. “Are you going to Monze?” I asked. “Mongu?” he said. “No Monze” I repeated. “Where” he answered. “Monze” I said. “Write it down here” he said handing me the back of the ticket book. “Yes” he said, writing Monze on the ticket (in the same way I had “Monze” - “40,000”. So I boarded the bus not completely convinced that we really were heading for Monze.

The bus was already three quarters full of people but we made up the difference in luggage. Already the front of the bus had the usual few cases and bags, the aisles were also filled with luggage – though here were the remaining fold down seats. The conductor patted one oversized bag with his fist till it fitted under the seat – admittedly even with a passenger seated the chair was 30 degrees off the horizontal. After saying that there were just two more seats to fill he found another six passengers to board. There was know no room for the conductor, but another hefty guy forced his way on and tried to close the passenger door. Despite his efforts it wouldn't close – then the driver used the button that powers the door and with an extra push it closed. By this time the bus was full both of people and even more so of luggage. However, now more cases started coming in through the window. Then extra bags, a laundry basket – I was expecting a few chickens, goats and pigs to appear at any moment. The bags were now stacked high at the front and also a couple of cases, two or three heavy bags and the laundry basket were stacked against the passenger door making it impossible to exit from there. All this amused both me and an elderly guy next to me.

The tickets were handed to the last guy to get aboard and we left for Monze. (Well at least that is what I hoped.) A dual carriageway leads out of Lusaka. It appears here that overtaking can be done in either lane – and sometimes on the verge. The traffic today seemed particularly heavy all day with long queues on the main roads into the city. (earlier a police car with sirens blasting seemed to be stuck in traffic. I always thought the sirens were to avoid this!)

A few kilometres up the road there is still an extra lane – though no dual carriageway – as we enter Chilanga. Here is the main cement factory in Zambia. Last year it had a huge contract to produce cement for the stadiums in South Africa which host the World Cup next year. This sent cement prices in Zambia soaring – this year I am told they have dropped back to normal levels. On the right I spotted a couple of zebras, as we passed Chilanga Zoo!

Unlike this morning the ride was very smooth – maybe the suspension was much better, or maybe struggling to reach 50 mph instead of 70 mph had an impact! I suspect a bit of both. Roads in Zambia tend to be much straighter than in the UK. On the way to Kafue there is a lot of ground with very few significant trees so you can see a long distance. There are hills in most directions - though at quite a distance.

Kafue itself is an industrial town with a number of large factories and sprawling housing estates. The road bypasses the industrial heart of the town. We passed over the railway line. The crossing has road humps to warn of the hazard but no gates, barriers or lights. (This is typical in Zambia now)

After the railway crossing we go up an incline and here the police had set up a check point. I had once been in a bus where the driver was fined for being overloaded, so I wasn't surprised when our bus was pulled over – nor was the guy beside me who was obviously further amused. The driver got out and asked for some kwachas from the new conductor and after a few minutes we were allowed to proceed. We did so slowly – this bus doesn't do uphill very well, especially with a full load!

On the other side of the hill is the bridge crossing the Kafue river where pleasure cruisers are moored – I expect to see crocodiles but haven't spotted any yet. I know that a kilometre or so further on is a customs and police check point. So once again the bus is pulled over and the driver gets out. A few minutes pass and a policeman / customs official comes to the front of the bus and climbs in at the driver's door with a smile on his face as he saw the luggage piled high everywhere. He seems to be suggesting that some of the luggage needs to be off loaded and I think that we are in trouble this time – at least I was travelling light and had nothing but today's copy of the Post. To my surprise the policeman made himself some space, plugged in his earphones and settled down for the journey.

So we continued with our additional passenger. After the checkpoint we leave the road that is heading for Harare in Zimbabwe and then on to Mozambique and turn right towards Livingstone (to my relief). At the junction we pull over and are immediately surrounded by women selling bunches of bananas and, fortunately, bottles of, mainly frozen, water. By this time the air blowing around in the bus warmed rather than cooled – so very cold water was ideal and I hugged the the cold water bottle as one might do with a hot water one at home! The next landmark is the Munali Hills. It is unusual for trucks and lorries to overtake Rosa buses – especially on the Munali Hills! I suggested to my neighbour that we might need to get out and push, however we reached the summit eventually. On the other side of the hills they have opened a new mine – nickel I believe. Zambia is rich in minerals, unfortunately the country has always been persuaded to give the ore away – so the large mining companies, and the countries where they are based, are the ones that have become wealthy at Zambia's expense.

A few more kilometres and we stop. One of the women passengers has reached her destination. Fortunately she must have had mountaineering experience because she succeeded in climbing over the towers of bags and was let out of the driver's door – this still being the only means of escape. During the next fifty or so kilometres to Mazabuka we had repeat performances of this exercise and we also collected more passengers and luggage using the drivers door for human cargo and the windows for everything else.

Mazabuka is the nearest town to Monze (about 85 km distant) that has a proper supermarket. It was also the nearest town with an ATM for my first couple of visits. My elderly friend eventually disembarked in Mazabuka. I got the feeling that he stayed longer than he wanted in the hope that he wouldn't have to clamber over the luggage and drop from the drivers door. He wasn't so lucky!

As you leave Mazabuka there are fields of sugar cane as far as the eye can see. A huge area must have been cleared of trees so that Tate & Lyle (I believe it is their sugar, apologies if I have it wrong) can grow their crop. I have been told that after a few years the land stops producing, so they abandon it and move on. (You can always buy Fairtrade sugar – I do).

When we arrived at Monze about 4 hours after setting off from Lusaka the policeman or customs official was still with us, but at last the passenger door was unblocked and I was spared the challenge that met other passengers.

I was waylaid by my friend in the shop and I loaded a copy of the stores database onto his computer. Another familiar face was with him. He works in the Hospital School admin and I produced a modified stock control system for him last year.

So it was 19.30 and dark, before I got back to my home. Fortunately I had some boiled eggs and salad ready prepared so there was no need to cook.


Sunday 11th October

Yesterday I had a quiet day spent reading and relaxing. I went for a stroll to see how my local dam (lake) was doing. There was plenty of water still – no problem with drying out this year. It was busy with lads swimming, ladies doing washing and trying to net a few fish, with what looked similar to mosquito nets, and a lot of cattle enjoying the grass growing on recently exposed land. There were a few swallows and small flocks of pigeons but it was too busy for the other frequent avian visitors.

On the way back I picked up a couple of Chitenges for Ireen to make into shirts, a brazier, a small bag of charcoal and a mop (or mopper as it is referred to locally). For a change I got an early night.

This morning I woke refreshed after a good night's sleep. I had intended to go to the chapel as usual for Sunday mass but decided that I should make a habit of attending Our Lady of The Wayside church since I am trying to build a relationship between the communities there and in Cheltenham. Perhaps if I listened to the Chitonga enough some might stick! Mass at Our Lady's starts at 10 hours and lasts upwards of 1½ hours. This means that, until the clocks change, in the UK the service here surrounds the one at St. Gregory's church in Cheltenham. By my reckoning by the time of communion we were at the same point, which for me was a pleasant thought. I have always said that in connecting the two churches we need to focus on relationship. True communion is what I believe should be the ultimate goal – a full sharing of our joint humanity and our gifts, and mutual respect for our diversity in culture, history and way of life.

Our Lady of the Wayside has a good set of musicians and singers, so the drumming and harmonies are very impressive. The offertory procession today was led by Reymond's Small Christian Community (St. Kisito's). He tells me that the communities take it in turn and everyone in the community is expected to provide a gift. These vary from a candle to vegetables, bottles of water and gifts of money. These are taken up with dancing and singing and are presented one by one to the priest.

Someone had spotted me (not that it was difficult since I was the only white male in the congregation of perhaps 700 – there was also an Italian nun who works at the church), so I was asked to stand up at the end of mass – just in case some couldn't guess who ”Chris from England” might be!

I was greeted by many – some old friends and others who were just being friendly. I left for town with Patrick who told me that he had been the Secretary for the Parish Council at the main church (the Cathedral) before they decided to build Our Lady of the Wayside. Apparently they couldn't cope with the size of the congregation at the cathedral so they thought about extending it. Then decided to build another church in Monze. Our Lady of the Wayside is growing and seems to be a vibrant community. Before the main service there is a children's mass which is also quite full. There seem to be a few more shelters put up in the grounds since last year. These are used for meetings as well as being places to gather, out of the sun, before and after services.

As we approached the town centre (I must take a few more pictures to show you the sights!), there was a man in the centre of the road. Patrick told me this was because of a cycle race taking part along the Lusaka/Livingstone road. Earlier I had seen a couple of cyclists pass from the Livingstone direction. Apparently they cycle a few kilometres towards Livingstone, return through Monze and then go a few kilometres towards Lusaka before finishing back in Monze. The finish was marked with a line of sand. Apparently there were 15 cyclists, all from Monze, and they did it for fun – though if lucky the crowd might show their appreciation by rewarding the winners.

I attended St. Veronica's section meeting this afternoon – but forgot my bible, so will have to find out the subject of the reflections later! Perhaps there is a message here about my need to learn the local language. It rained a little during the meeting – fortunately where we met today there was a good sized room to move into – this is not always the case.

This evening Reymond popped around – so again he shared my steak. There always seems enough for two when I cook.

Monday 12th October

This morning I woke in time for morning mass at the cathedral at 6.30 am. After a quick breakfast I was back at the church to meet Fr. Maambo. We spent the morning talking about the development of the link between St. Gregory's parish in Cheltenham and Our Lady of the Wayside here in Monze. It was a very useful discussion and gave us a further chance to get to know each other better. He showed me the details of how funds from St. Gregory's church had been spent. In many ways I felt that to see receipts for the children's shoes and shirts that they needed in order to attend school was an invasion of privacy. Anyway I am more than happy that the funds are being well used.

At lunchtime Jennifer joined me for mayonnaise sandwiches. She told me that they are busy with the shelter for her support groups and are collecting the grass for thatching. They will have three poles to support the roof. A farmer was selling his cattle and had offered her a couple. I am not sure whether the benefits of having cows out-ways the difficulties in keeping them. However, I suspect that it would mean a lot to Jennipher and her groups to own their own cows. I have a couple of birthday gifts to give to folks back home - I think they will get a cow each!

Tomorrow morning some guys are going to spray the house against mosquitos. Jennipher said they don't bother about people in the villages. She said that they weren't provided with mosquito nets either, though she said she would use a net if she had one, she was concerned about have lots of nets when her clients couldn't afford any.

The afternoon was time to catch up with Mrs. Sianga and discuss the plans and problems with Maluba and PIZZ. I have things much clearer in my mind now – all I need is to put some thoughts on paper – or more likely in digital form. (Its amazing what you can now do with a few 0s &1s).

Once again it was dark as I approached my house. Having a torch I decided to use my usual route by small tracks across the railway line. Everything looks very different in the dark, yet, despite my famous lack of any sense of direction, I made it home safely – and without getting lost!

Chris