Reflections on Monze 2023

I have spent more time reading and sitting in the garden than I am used to. This is probably not a bad thing, though, in the world we live in, apparent inactivity seems to be frowned upon. I often think that people are too busy rushing around to have time to think! I don't know how you can make good decisions unless sometimes,you have the time to ponder. Well I have had plenty of time!!

In the 20 years that I have been coming to Monze many things have changed. There were no mobile phones in Monze in 2003! There were no ATMs in Monze in 2003. Now we have entered the Internet era and I can connect from Truckers to anywhere in the world. I can send emails, talk via various means – including using video through Zoom, Skype, WhatsApp or Facetime. There are now supermarkets throughout the town, new restaurants, including PIZZA Express, even some new tarred roads around town.

However, the ladies selling tomatoes and onions still line the streets – many carrying their wares on their heads and the lads still transport goods around the town using their wheelbarrows. Stiil finding change for K50 (about £2) can be a major undertaking.

There is no evidence that the poverty has gone. There are still many mud brick houses with corrigated roofs held down with rocks and breeze blocks. In some ways things seem to have become worse, despite apparent increases in funding, it seems that the only way to get medicines these days is to take your prescription to a pharmacy and pay the market price. I understood that simple medicines used to be provided by the hospital.

The Jacaranda trees are becoming a bit bare having shed most of their petals like a carpet of blue confetti on the ground. The Flamboyant trees however are living up to their name with their bright orange/red blooms. I passed a tree in the garden and the fruit looked vaguely familiar! I hope that the mangoes are ripe before I leave for the UK!

Chris

Meeting Friends

I took a taxi for the shortest of rides – it takes less than 5 minutes to walk to Truckers, but I couldn't face dragging the bags even that distance after my journey from the UK. I was greeted on arrival by Lisa and another maid who both gave me a hug.

Arriving at 14.30 meant that I had a chance to sort myself out a little in the afternoon. There are a few essentials that need to be bought – tea bags, cornflakes and milk being at the top of the list.

I am about 50 yards from the main road. As soon as I reached the road I was greeted - “Hallo Chris, when did you come!”

I usually buy a bottle of water in Lusaka before catching a bus. I hadn't a chance this time, so with the temperature in the mid thirties it was essential that I grabbed a drink. Food Royal is very close so that was my first port of call. A tropical Cabana and two samosas would bring me back to life.

There are some small grocery shops very close – there is also Choppies which is a big supermarket I usually avoid. I also noticed that the market seems to also have arrived on the side of the road. I prefer to give the ladies selling vegetables along the road my custom whenever possible. In fact I managed to pick up most of my grocery needs for the next week without travelling more than a few hundred yards.

It was then back to my accommodation for some serious tea drinking!! I let a few people know of my arrival – including of course my wife Dilys.

I arranged to meet Diven later for a meal – again at Food Royal – cooking could wait till tomorrow. I was about to leave when Diven arrived – an hour late!

Thursday gave me the chance to pop along to the market and pick up some spices and meet a marketeer from the church. Brian came over from his stall by the “robots” to say hallo and I weighed myself on my friend's scales outside the old cathedral.

Since I arrived Best has shown me the preparations he needs to make for being called to the Bar. I will be in Zambia at the time and he asked if I would attend – fortunately I packed a suit in case. It has been a long journey with many twists and turns since I met him as a secondary student in 2005.

Teddy came around and told me how his retirement is going – though he doesn't seem to have fully extracted himself from the hospital. I gave him his birthday present – a Fedora hat in the stle of Indiana Jones!!

I have spent some time observing the birds in the garden – lesser blue eared starlings are common and spectacular – especially in flight. I have already finished my first thriller! You have a lot more time without the TV!!

Today I went to Our Lady of the Wayside for mass. It was lovely to hear the singing. The beautiful harmonies – often unaccompanied, and the volume from the whole congregation is a joy. I took the chance to bring a bible from Truckers and marked the readings before mass. I thought I was going to be anonymous - even though there was no other white face in the church! However, right at the end of mass the priest apologised for nearly forgetting to welcome me.

I met a few more friends after mass. Obert's father told me that Obert's wife gave birth to a baby boy this morning!!

I had not intended to go to st Veronica's Small Christian Community meeting today because with temperatures in the thirties – it hit 37 yesterday! - I don't want to do too much – at least until I am better acclimatised. In the event there was no meeting today.

I have had a lazy day doing a little family history research on the computer, chatting to Dilys and spending time in the garden.

Chris

The Journey

 

My bus was scheduled for12 noon from Cheltenham.

I decided that I had plenty of time to go to mass before setting off. The church I go to most frequently now is Sacred Heart's church in Charlton Kings – about 2 miles from my house. There is a pleasant walk which takes me through Cox's Meadow - an open space which was developed a few years back to provide a water catchment area to prevent local flooding.

The weather has been remarkably warm for October – with temperatures in the low 20s – I would soon be experiencing such low temperatures only in the middle of the night! My walk was very pleasant and I arrived at church feeling refreshed. It was great to be greeted at church by my good friends Mary and Dominic.

We had the Gospel reading about Mary and Martha. Fr. Mark concentrated on the fact that Mary was worrying about so many things. This resonated with me. Particularly since Covid, I find myself stressing about the most trivial things. I was about to travel 5,000 miles where there would many potential challenges!

Dilys picked me up after mass and before long I was at the bus station. (The car started, no flat tyres etc.!!!) We arrived at Heathrow on time after an uneventful journey. My plane wasn't due to take off for 4 hrs so I had plenty of time. The first job was to transfer to terminal 4.

As I headed for the lift a young lady was a bit confused as to how to get to terminal 4. I suggested that she came along with me as I was heading there myself. The process is quite straightforward – if you have done it several times, have no problem with the English language and can cope with limited signing! I don't think the lady was sure that I knew what I was doing, but she continued to follow my lead as we wended our way towards the Heathrow Express. I picked up some tickets and we took the train to terminal 4. She was heading back to Tunisia and the check in desks were in area E as were those for Kenya Airways. Feeling rather proud of myself I took her into the queue for Kenya Airways!! Fortunately I realised very soon that there was a barrier between the two sets of check-in desks and was able to guide her back into the correct queue.

I really believe that the Lord is behind my work in Zambia, like Mary I worry about so much. He tries to teach me that most issues are trivial or can easily be overcome – there were many examples as I filled my cases before the trip, such as items that I needed but didn't have time to buy which just appeared in front of me at the appropriate time. In the best times my relationship with God is one where there are plenty of jokes and laughter. I am regularly brought down to earth when my head gets too big!!

Check in was straightforward except that I was told to take my soft bag to another conveyor belt which I was told was very fast! It seemd that this belt was specifically for oversized items. I think that the way I packed my bag made it wider than normal! Anyway the bag vanished without a problem!!

As usual new boarding passes were printed despite me printing some at home. Security was straightforward, though I felt the need to go back to make sure that I hadn't left anything in my tray. I sat down and checked that I had my passport and boarding card only to realise that somehow I had lost my boarding card! I could only think that, despite checking, it must have been left at security in the tray. The security officer hadn't seen it, but said that they would print another card at the boarding gate.

Of course there was no problem and I relaxed once I knew that it could be easily resolved. My flight to Nairobi set off at about 6.30pm as scheduled. I had an aisle seat since there was little to see during the night and I was able to get up and down without disturbing anyone. I tried to dose a little but with breakfast at 1.30/2.00 am BST there is little chance of sleep. We touched down at 5 am (3 am BST)

On the flight to Lusaka I had booked a window seat. I felt bad asking a lady to move so that I could have my seat. I explained that I was hoping to see Kilimanjaro. I had judged correctly and was on the correct side of the plane . As we approached Kilimanjaro – not long into the journey - the sky was completely covered with cloud. However, the peaks in the Kilimanjao range emerged beyond the clouds providing a spectacular and memorable view.

We arrived at Lusaka on time at 9 am. With the new terminal, extra staff and equipment I was through immigration and customs and out of the airport building before 9.30. A taxi driver was waiting for me and yes the price had gone up to K600 – a little under £25.

I approached the Intercity Bus Station with trepidation, but before we could turn in, a guy put his head through the driver's window and said “Shalom to Livingstone” – exactly what I wanted. We easily kept other offers at bay. I asked what time the next bus left – it was almost 10.30 am - and was told 12.30. I agreed, but another guy said that the 9.30 Shalom bus was just about to leave if I was ready. Before I knew it the cases were on their way to the bus and I had my ticket. We left just after 10.30am!!

Other than having to sit next to a guy who hardly fitted on the two seats leaving me less than half a seat!! the journey was uneventful. Despite greatly improved roads it still took us 4 hrs to reach Monze. However getting to Monze at 2.30pm must be a record.!!

Chris

My preparations for my next visit are well underway. I will be setting off for Monze on Tuesday - 20 years after my first visit. In 2003 British Airways ran direct flights to Lusaka, now I have to make at least one stop enroute. I will therefore fly to Nairobi Tuesday night and continue to Lusaka on Wednesday morning. I catch a taxi from the airport – there are no buses available. The drivers have a set price, so haggling no longer works! On recent trips the price has been K500 – about £20 at current rates. (it's always cheaper in the other direction!)

I don't look forward to catching a bus at the international bus station in Lusaka. My taxi gets surrounded by people wanting to guide me to particular buses – most of which are going “now now” . This means that the bus will leave when it is full – which could be in 3 or 4 hours time. There seems only to be one company which keeps roughly to a schedule, but it is a fight refusing other offers.

With luck I will get to Monze before dark – probably about 30hours after leaving home!

In two days – on Saturday – my son Andy is doing a solo parachute jump to help launch the new charity we have to fund PIZZ School. Donations can be made using this link.

https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/ParachuteJump4Pizz?utm_id=1&utm_term=bnYrpNB9d

Best wishes,

Chris

Preparing to return to Monze

 

I think it is time to put another post on my blog!

We are just coming to the end of a September heatwave, no doubt sent to get me acclimatised in preparation for my next visit to Zambia - in a month's time.

I am looking forward to getting back to Monze and catching up with my many friends. As usual there have been many challenges. Luke – a friend for many years continues to need medical treatment. Luke was a young man who I starting working with at Monze Mission Hospital in 2004. We were developing a database to record transactions at the hospital stores. In 2004 I stayed in Monze for 4 months and returned over a number of years to develop the computer systems at the hospital. In 2006 he joined Dilys and myself for a trip to Lochinvar – a national park renowned for the rich variety of birds – including the Maribu Stork, Secretary Bird, African Fish Eagle, hornbills, hummingbirds and very many others. Unfortunately on this occasion we spent much of the time stranded in the sand – fortunately Luke helped me to get moving again. This trip took place not long after the terrible accident when two members of staff, including my friend Bentoe, died when a hospital vehicle was involved in a crash. Luke's uncle was also in the crash and was badly affected.

For me Zambia has always been about the people. For 20 years I have made friends and shared experiences. Diven continues to struggle along! One day I will write his story! He has allowed me to understand a bit more about the day to day challenges faced by so many in Zambia. He rang the other day to say that his lights no longer work. He thinks that the sun is too strong and the power from the solar panel is making the wires burn out. £10 should enable him to sort out the wiring! He needed to buy some salt a few weeks back to reduce the level in his toilet! His solar fridge is no longer working properly – probably because a new battery is required! Children regularly need new uniforms, school fees etc. His shop still struggles to raise an income. There will be a lot to discuss and hopefully my understanding of the issues will grow.

There are so many people who have enriched my life and continue to do so. My involvement with Monze, Zambia has been truly lifegiving.

I went to Slimbridge last week. I wanted to take some time out, to relax to think and enjoy the nature. Some people seem to visit Slimbridge to chase rare birds and tick them off their list! While the twitchers waxed lyrical over the “Med Gulls”, I enjoyed watching the swallows swooping over the lake hunting insects. Swallows were some of the first birds that stirred my interest in birdwatching. They joined housemartins and sometimes swifts joyfully playing around our university halls of residence.

They have an added interest for me now because they also make an annual trip to Africa! When I saw them last week I realised that they would set off for Africa before I take flight. As I left the hide I was greeted by a small flock of swallows that performed in front of my shadow.

I often realise the importance of my faith in God. My relationship with God changes, but at its best it is a very personal friendship. I feel close to my God with my friends in Zambia. Particularly the poorest and those who are sick. Often when I feel at my lowest my God reminds me that he (or perhaps she) is still present. At Slimbridge I felt that.

I moved to another hide – my favourite! It looked particularly promising because the usual wet areas had largely dried up – all that was left was a pool in front of the hide. I like this hide because most people take one look – see nothing – and move on. Without the wetlands, it looks even less inviting. Leaving me to sit in peace and isolation!!

Over the years I have enjoyed a number of interesting sightings. A few years ago our grandaughter Cheyenne spotted a crane making a nest – the first for over 100 years. I was sceptical – but in fact it was the start of cranes breeding again in the UK. I once spotted a kingfisher in front of the hide and on another occasion I saw a Great White Egret – a bird that I had only previously seen in Zambia.

I had a word with my God and said perhaps he could send me another Great white Egret and maybe another kingfisher. I seemed to get the answer that I can't dictate to God and expect to get what I want.

The joy of this particular hide is that it provides a wide horizon looking across the River Severn. I love to watch the movement of the birds. Ducks, geese, herons and cranes can be beautiful birds, but when they take flight they become very special. At this hide I once saw 7 cranes fly from a distant field straight towards me then take a sharp right turn to treat me to a very special fly past.

After a good amount of peaceful time I spotted a couple of birds flying past side by side. I immediately though of Great White Egrets. They were that beautiful bright white. They had their necks extended in front and their legs trailing producing a wonderful streamlined form. I then realised that Great White Egrets don't have large black wing tips! I looked for Great White Egrets in my bird book, but instinctively looked up White Storks – and they fitted my recollection.

A number of vistors came in, took one look and went out again! A visitor came and settled while a twitcher took a look and left, but bumped into a Wetlands Trust volunteer and started talking outside the hide. At this point a Kingfisher perched in front of me! I focussed my telescope and had a wonderful view as the chatting continued outside!

The volunteer came into the hide and saw the kingfisher. I took the opportunity to ask if it was possible that I had seen White Storks. She said that it was very unlikely and checked to see if anyone else had recorded a sighting. The answer was no.

The kingfisher left, but returned in another place on the pond. I refocussed my telescope. The volunteer left and the kingfisher left again. However, once again it returned. I refocussed my telescope. I looked away very briefly, but the kingfisher was still in the same position, however it now had a fish in it's mouth! On three occasions the same thing happened – I only looked away for a few seconds, but obviously enough time for the kingfisher to dive, catch a fish and return - pretending to me that it had not moved!

There have been times in my life when my God has just reminded me that he/she exists. There have been other times when I have known that I could expect something rather special and have always been amazed at the result. This wasn't one of those times, but White Storks (seen in Zambia, not usually in the UK – though some have recently been released in Norfolk) and a kingfisher seen fishing and eating it's prey in a place not known for kingfishers counts as a bit special for me!

So next month I will set off once again for Monze. We now have a new charity to support PIZZ – the project supporting vulnerable children through a school and pastoral support. We will have challenges to provide sufficient money to enable the children's dreams to be fulfilled, but the project is so good and the outcomes so positive that I am sure the school will develop and the children will be transformed.

I will spend about 6 weeks in Zambia on this visit which I hope will give me a bit more time to meet old friends as well as plan the future for PIZZ school.

With love and prayers,

 Chris.

Reflections as we approach Easter

 

Reflections

I made my return journey to the UK three weeks ago.

It is time to reflect on my recent visit. In two respects this was different to my previous trips. Firstly my great friend Jennipher was no longer around to greet me and guide me. Secondly the relationship between Hands Around the World has broken down and PIZZ school is having to plot a new path for it's future.

I find Easter a wonderful and inspiring time. I have had the joy of spending a couple of Easters in Zambia. The rainy season has just ended and everything is green and vibrant. The Easter week celebrations start with processions through the towns involving Christians from all churches. Good Friday also sees more public displays of Christian devotion with further processions around the streets. Everything culminates in a joyous celebration of new life as we recognise the risen Christ at the Easter Vigil. In Zambia this is a service full of smiles and laughter, as well as singing and lots of dancing, held under the stars - with the addition of candlelight.

Although it is always challenging for me in Zambia, I usually have plenty of time to relax and enjoy the people and the environment. Since last June it has been very difficult to stop thinking about the challenges presented to Mrs. Sianga and PIZZ School. In Monze this was heightened.

It has become clear that there has been a communications breakdown. I have realised over the past 20 years that the gap between Zambia and the UK is not just 5,000 miles! You cannot expect to understand Zambia and Zambians after a few weeks in the country. Unfortunately it probably takes much longer than that just to recognise that there is an immense gap.

When talking to people in the UK and Zambia I have always stressed the need to try to get a better understanding of each other's culture and way of life.

As I have mentioned often, I am comfortable in Monze and don't notice many of the differences between Zambia and the UK. The fact that I rarely see a white face, most of the local deliveries are made using wheelbarrows rather than vans, ox carts are often seen on the local roads, ladies often carry goods balanced on their heads, chickens are sold in the markets live, bikes often have a passenger on the carrier, trucks often carry passengers in the back etc.

This year I had the joy of meeting the students at PIZZ school. When I told them that we didn't eat nshima in the UK they found it hard to believe! Nshima – maize meal – is the staple diet in Zambia. The children look forward to their daily meal of nshima and groundnuts (peanuts) at PIZZ School. It costs approximately £1 to provide a student at PIZZ School with a daily meal for one month! I am hoping that this Easter people will consider donating the price of an Easter Egg to the school – this could provide several students with a meal for a month. Saving PIZZ School

Here in the UK the spring flowers are coming out, the blossom is abundant and signs of new life are abundant. I will spend Holy Week at my daughter's house in Naunton in the Cotswolds looking after her dogs and chickens. I will have time to reflect as I sit in her field enjoying the natural environment – weather permitting.

With love and prayers during this holy time,

 

Chris

The Lord's Day

 

Today is Sunday – the Lord's day. I think that it was in 2015 that I tried to establish a link between my church in Cheltenham – St. Gregory the Great – and a church here in Monze. It was suggested initially that I linked with a poor community attached to Our Lady of the Wayside – St. Veronica's Small Christian Community. Some people needed new houses and for a small sum – I think it was about £80 they were able to construct a small mud brick house, thatched with elephant grass. Friends were happy to fund the houses and about 5 were built. This began my association with St. Veronica's and I became an official member of the Community. It was later decided that a more appropriate link was between the two churches – St. Gregory's and Our Lady of the Wayside.

So for many years, when I am in Monze, I have attended Sunday mass at Our Lady of the Wayside – the local Chitonga service. Because the Roman Catholic mass follows the same prayers worldwide, I know what is being said and can follow the readings from the New Testament from a small book I bring with me. The service usually lasts about two hours with plenty of singing. Being Lent at present the dancing is a bit subdued – it will be made up for at Easter, but I won't be here for the celebrations this year. Today's gospel for our worldwide Catholic community is the transfiguration of Christ. A time when he showed himself as God to a select group of three Apostles. I reflected at our meeting last week that we are not party to such remarkable revelations, but in other ways God makes his present known. For me He is present in nature. It is interesting that most people have a sense of there being something beyond the physical world – whether they have a religious conviction or not. I believe that anyone who sees a beautiful view, or experiences a truly life-giving event and says Wow! has been touched by that supernatural presence.

I have just enough time to get home – about a 2km walk – sit down and have a bite to eat before setting off for St. Veronica's. As usual I bump into someone. A guy says he is very sorry about Jennipher. He told me that he was involved in the process of obtaining her visa to go the UK. He asked how was our King and told me he met the Queen and Queen Mother at an old peoples home in Potter's Bar – I told him that I never had the privilege to meet either – though I have been to Potter's Bar!

So having set out at about 9 hrs for Our Lady of the Wayside, other than a brief break for lunch, I did not return home until 17 hrs!

I met Brian on the way home and I thought he was going to follow me. Ireen assured me that she would have my Chitenge shirt ready in time and would ring me. Diven asked if he could pop around and joined me for supper. We reminisced over some of the many adventures we have had over the past twenty years and he promised to write a book for me, if I tell him a month before my next visit. He said that he didn't think he would still be alive, but for me – I said that my life had a lot more excitement because of knowing him!! Brian didn't appear!

Another full day in Monze.

With love and prayers,

Chris