Friday, March 3, 2023

Mutual Respect


Any who read my blog will know that I feel very comfortable here in Monze. I suppose as a “white man” I am out of place, but I never feel it. I occasionally realise that I very rarely see another white face in town. By returning a greeting and a smile or sharing a joke any distance is suddenly bridged and I am among friends.

The past couple of days taxi drivers have approached me to see if I want a lift, when I say I am happy to walk they say “but why? The reason I give and one I believe, is that by walking I meet people. In a car you can pass by and meet no one. In my case there are people I have got to know over the past twenty years – most I will not recognise, because I have an issue with picturing people and scenes. When people mention their name I will recall who they are and apologise. After one such encounter today I met Boniface. Boniface was a student at PIZZ School who now earns a living as a musician. He tells me that he needs his own studio to move forward. After a brief chat I told him to give me a buzz so we can catch up (no I am not about to provide him with a studio!) It must be 4 years or more since we last met.


I have spent a good amount of my time at PIZZ School talking to Mrs. Sianga and meeting the children. Today I met the pre-school and grade one children which completed my tour of all grades. I tell the students a little about England and my family, but I like them to ask the questions. They usually want to know the names of my children and grandchildren and how old I am. They are also interested in what we eat in England – though people who can survive without nshima seems unimaginable! In one class I was asked me to sing which caught me off guard. 'There was an old woman who swallowed a fly' seemed to hit the mark!

I had noticed some new lock up shops this year and one had three pools tables in it. During the week, on the way back from PIZZ School, I plucked up courage to poke my head inside. I asked if anyone could play and I was invited to sit down. The rule here is that the winner of a game stays at the table and anyone wanting to play deposits their coin and makes a challenge. When I have tried to explain that in England we play with our friends, not with strangers they cannot understand this strange culture. Even more how we can go to a bar and not mix with everyone else. If I try to say that there are neighbours who I have hardly met, I don't think they believe me!



Well my turn on the table soon came - and we were well matched. It was a tight game and I was just beaten. My opponent however, ignoring the accepted rules, wanted a replay! In the second game I proved the victor. What followed was a series of very close matches which I was fortunate to win. After an hour or so, in another close match, I was at last defeated and made my exit.

One of the joys of playing pool in Zambia is that, whatever the differences in culture, background, history and lifestyle, on the pool table we compete on equal terms – it is only the skill in playing the game that matters. All the guys I played had a similar skill level to me. They were all capable of beating me and I was capable of beating them. We respected each other and the skills shown. I enjoyed an hour or more playing in the lock up and they told me they also enjoyed our games. I promised to return for another session.

Yesterday Mr Sianga drove me, with Mrs Sianga and someone who is apparently Soloman's uncle, to Pemba, where Jennipher lived. I was hoping to locate Jennipher's children, but firstly wanted to meet Soloman. I first met Soloman in 2006 or 2007. He had come from Zimbabwe to stay with Jennipher and for 15 or 16 years he was tremendous help to her, growing crops, building houses and even looking after the children. I was bit surprised to find that apparently he had close family in Monze, having never seen or heard mention of them before.

We were shown to the house were the funeral took place - which was apparently where Jennipher lived! Soloman wasn't there, but met us in town where we also met a lady who I apparently saw in Jennipher's village on my last visit. After speaking to the lady this made sense, but not a lot else did!!

It cannot be stressed how difficult it is to understand people from an entirely different culture and living a very different life. To my great shame I don't understand Chitonga – the local language. Most people that I talk to can speak some English, some, like Mrs. Sianga, speak and understand English well, but it is not their first language. I wonder how many of us would be confident of conversing in French, Spanish or another language we learnt at school and be sure that we are understanding all the nuances of the conversation?

Yesterday I found myself very confused. I gathered that the children, or at least some of them, were staying with relatives at Jennipher's village. Fortunately I had Mrs Sianga to translate. After seeing Soloman and chatting briefly we agreed to return next Tuesday to meet the children with Soloman at his house. I am hoping that the second visit will put things in place and that I will be able to set up a means of keeping track of the children's progress.

It is only by spending a lot of time with people that get to know and understand them. After regular discussions over 20 years me and Mrs. Sianga are getting to know each other quite well. I know that for twenty years and more her passion has been to help the orphaned children. She has given her time energy and resources to develop a truly exceptional project and a school which produces academic results which far exceed those of the Government schools in the area and also most of the private schools. More than that she has given hopes to hundreds of the most vulnerable children in Monze. Everything Mrs. Sianga has done has been for the benefit of the children, her only gain is the knowledge that children have been able to make something of their lives, instead of suffering on the streets. Talking to the students it is clear that they are very happy to be at school, they are respectful, but don't lack the cheeky grin and impish giggle. They are very comfortable in the school, respect the staff, but have no fear in approaching them. The atmosphere and environment is one that you would hope to find in a very well run school.


I am amazed that so much has been achieved with limited resources. I hope and pray that working closely with Mrs. Sianga we will be able to ensure the vulnerable children of Monze will continue to find a place of safety where they can achieve their dreams and reach the skies. Many of the children hearing that I came to Zambia by plane want to become airline pilots!


Take care! With love and prayers,


Chris.



Monday, February 27, 2023

The Sun is Shining


Yes! I am back in Monze, the place which I have adopted as my second home.


I arrived just over a week ago, but it feels like I have never been away. I have been greeted by many friends , but this year there is one huge exception. Jennipher is no longer here to welcome me. In the past I could step of the bus and she would appear with a big hug to tell me that I was back home. This year I am greeted with – “I am so sorry” - referring to Jennipher's tragic death. She is greatly missed by so many.


My surprise visit this year was prompted by the need to provide support for Mrs. Sianga who has endured a very stressful and extremely difficult year. We are trying to see how we can ensure the future of PIZZ School. The second major purpose is to try to locate and meet with Jennipher's children. I hope that they too can have a secure future.


It didn't take long for word to get around that I was back in Monze. I was contacted by Henna in Lusaka as well as many in Monze. Brian came over to the petrol station, where I was passing through, to say hallo, Obert beeped at me from his taxi as I wandered down the main road, Ireen greeted me with her customary hug, Teddy caught me after church, Angelina spotted me at the market, Diven expected me and popped along to Truckers, where I am lodging and many others have greeted me as I wander around Monze.


It is so good to feel welcomed. In Cheltenham I can often walk through town without a single person saying hallo. That never happens in Monze. Many people say “hallo Chris how are you?” often followed by “when did you come? - Long time!” A lady this morning just said “Hallo white man how are you?”


Yesterday, when I was on my way to church, a man told me off for not greeting him. I apologised and we chatted a little. My mind has been preoccupied of late, but that is no excuse. On the way back he asked me if I had prayed for him. We agreed that respect for each other was so important.


My main mission in Monze is to develop friendships with the local people, built on the basis of mutual respect. I have learnt so much over the past 20 years. The more I learn, the more I realise that I don't understand. I am with people who live a world apart from me and not just in distance. I should not expect my friends here to see the world as I see it. In the UKwe come from a world of paperwork, of documents going back hundreds of years. Zambia was no doubt introduced to the written word by their 'colonial masters' - until then their tradition was oral. I don't pretend to understand how a Zambian thinks, but I try to respect the cultural differences and accept that many practices will surprise and perhaps shock me. On the other hand I feel at home with people who are warm, friendly and great fun to be around.


It is the rainy season, however so far I have been fortunate. It rained heavily on my first night, though I slept through it, having been travelling for more than 24 hrs. We had a heavy storm lasting an hour or more and a heavy shower, but I have been safely at home. The past few days have been dry and sunny. Yesterday was hot – exceeding 30ยบC.


My faith is an important part of my life. I find comfort in the knowledge that my God is always near by and I often receive reminders in nature. In the UK I regard magpies as my angels – messengers from God to remind me of His presence. Here they don't have magpies, but they have black and white butterflies which I have christened magpie butterflies. On my first visit to PIZZ School I was welcomed by such a butterfly.

On my first visit to Our Lady of the Wayside church I was greeted by a flock of swifts. These are amazing birds. Our European swifts fly to Africa for for the winter (our winter) and return in the spring. Even more remarkable is that they might do 3 or more round trips after leaving the nest without alighting from their flight. Yesterday when I went to church I was met by a dozen or more brown dragonflies – I don't ever remember seeing them in such numbers. The dragonfly is another incredible one of God's creations. It spends 4 or 5 years crawling around in the mud at the bottom of ponds as a grey non de script creature and then one day climbs a reed and undergoes an amazing transformation into a flying beauty. The story of this transformation is sometimes used to explain to children the concepts of death and heaven. I watched this transformation many years ago over several hours and it is one of the most remarkable things that I have witnessed.

 


With love and prayers,


Chris




Saturday, February 4, 2023

The Story of PIZZ School – A Fantastic Project


The beginning

When I first met Mrs. Sianga in 2003 she was a full time nurse providing Home Based Care. One memorable afternoon she took me out to meet some of her patients. I was invited into the homes of women who were dying because of AIDS. The houses were invariably single roomed properties built mainly of mud bricks and thatched with elephant grass. Mrs. Sianga had a few paracetemol tablets to dispense to these ladies, but nothing that would prevent their imminent death. I felt very privileged to be welcomed and very humbled.


These women died, together with many more of Mrs. Sianga's patients. Having come to know the families, Mrs. Sianga was keen to support the orphaned children. In particular she wanted to keep the children from going onto the streets – with all the associated dangers.

Some volunteers from Italy wanted to help. Mrs Sianga set up a small local charity “Maluba Orphans and Vulnerable Children” - Muluba being a Zambian word meaning “flowers” . With the volunteers help, Mrs. Sianga started providing some extra food for the orphaned children and with assistance from her family she started a small school which became known as PIZZ School.

 


Growing the school

Soon the children had outgrown the small school buildings. Thanks to a wealthy benefactor, introduced through Hands Around the World, the school buildings were improved to provide more security and shelter from the rain. Another benefactor agreed to buy land for the purpose of building extra classrooms etc. for a school for orphaned and vulnerable children. The local chief agreed to sell some land specifically to be used for a school for orphaned and vulnerable children. It is important to know that the aim has always been very clear. The school was to provide a safe space for the most vulnerable children and to give them an opportunity to gain an education that could remove them and their families from poverty and also provide benefits for the wider community.

I have had the pleasure of working alongside Mrs Sianga to help develop the project. It was obvious to me that the buildings were
of little use unless there were teachers – and they needed to be paid. The school would need maintaining and stationery, books etc. needed to be bought. I persuaded the benefactor to pay the teacher's salaries and persuaded Hands Around the World to cover the other costs.

There are some projects which enable a community to generate income and therfore become more self - sufficient. A school for vulnerable children is not one of them. When I visited those ladies in 2003 I remember that a young girl (probably 8 or 9 years old) went out to see if a neighbour would give a little sugar to make her mother's nshima porridge a little more tasty. To expect families who have difficulty providing sufficent food for their children to raise funds to pay for education is unrealistic to say the least.


I have battled over many years to obtain sufficient funding for the school – always wanting to be able to do more, despite being told that money could not be raised. However, over the years the children at the school have flourished and there has always been money in the bank.

 

The need for a school specifically for orphaned and vulnerable Children

PIZZ was established as a Basic School.


At that time the Government schools were split into Basic Schools which taught grades 1 to 9 and were “free” and Secondary Schools which taught from grade 10 to 12 and charged school fees. Although “free”, government schools required school uniforms, shoes, notebooks etc.


Even these costs made government schools too expensive for the familes of the orphaned children, but the main reason that a school specifically for orphaned and vulnerable children was needed was the need for a system of pastoral care which PIZZ could provide. The children at the school have suffered the trauma of the loss of one or both parents – sometimes followed by other bereavements and disturbances to their lives. Problems regularly happen at home which result in the children not attending school. At PIZZ these issues are addressed, the family homes are visited and invariably a way is found to enable the children to continue with their education. There are few children who drop out.

 


A Success Story

Eventually the first children at the school reached grade 9. They took exams to qualify for secondary school. The results were good and some passed. I have always thought that if children have potential we should do whatever we can to help them reach that potential. Hands Around the World funded some children to attend secondary school.

The success of the project means there is a tremendous story to tell. The successes have continued. Many children have passed grade 9 exams and some have been funded at secondary school. Children have passed their grade 12 exams. 2 or three have been funded at university and more have been funded to train as nurses.


I met Mawini when I visited in October last year. She told me that she never expected to have a chance of any education, coming from such a poor family. She was delighted to be given a place at PIZZ School and even more delighted when she was given a new school uniform. She told me that she was about 8 years old when she first met me. Mawini is now a veterinary surgeon at the University of Zambia in Lusaka. After I returned to the UK, Mawini went to Kenya to attend a conference - her first flight and trip outside of Zambia. She is hoping to do a master's degree in Japan!


Not all the children have achieved academic success, but when I visit I see lively, happy, healthy and well behaved girls and boys. Many of whom I have watched grow up over a number of years. I see the change from the traumatised, timid, frightened children who enter the school.

PIZZ is a truly amazing project which has transformed the lives of many children and their families. It has given hope to the most vulnerable in an impoverished country. I believe that it will be very hard to find another project anywhere which provides a better return for relatively small donations.

I last visited the project in October 2022 and, despite the huge challenges presented by COVID, found the school and the children looking great. I will return very soon to support Mrs. Sianga through these difficult times.


Withdrawal of funding by Hands Around the World

In June last year two representatives from Hands Around the World visited the project and told Mrs. Sianga that, unless she changed the status of the school to a Community School – effectively handing the school to the Government – Hands Around the World would stop providing funds.

The PIZZ project has always been much more than just a school. The reasons for setting up a school specifically for orphaned and vulnerable children still apply. Mrs. Sianga believes that the suggested change of status would mean the end of the project. In addition the land was given only on the basis that it would be used for a school for orphans and vulnerable children. To hand the school to the government would be contrary to this agreement.



The current position

Mrs Sianga has refused to transfer the school to the Zambian Government and Hands Around the World has carried out its threat, stopped sending funds for the project at the end of December and says it will not send any more money.

The project has been highly successful in producing wonderful outcomes for the children. This success has resulted in plenty of support which has generated considerable income for Hands Around the World.


At the end of 2021 Hands Around the World reported that they has restricted funds specifically reserved for PIZZ School amounting to £39K, in addition there was a lot more money reserved for specific activities in connection with the project. There are currently more than 70 children at PIZZ School being sponsored by donors through Hands Around the World – paying £15 each month to support children at the school, I am sure that these sponsors would want to continue to support the schoolchildren. This money is not currently being passed on to the school.


HATW is currently refusing to release any of the money they have been given for the project, but the teachers need to be paid, the school needs to be maintained and the children need school meals to allow them to learn without constantly being hungry.

I will do all I can to keep the school from closing. If HATW released the money they are holding, there could be time to establish new funding streams.

I want the project to succeed because I don't want to see the children, to whom I have promised a better life, ending up on the streets. I believe this project can provide even better outcomes for the children than in the past. I will need a lot of help, but with your support we can make lots of dreams come true.



Chris Barrell

 

Monday, December 5, 2022

Jennipher Mukuni RIP


 In an earlier blog I wrote about my visit to Jennipher's village and in this blog I have to report that two days ago Jennipher was buried in the village after dying in a car accident last Wednesday.

I am still finding it hard to believe that Jennipher, who survived many health crises over the years was taken so suddenly in this way.


I was at Slimbridge with my wife Dilys when I heard the terrible news. I had spoken to Jennipher the day before because she was preparing for World AIDs day on December 1st. She told me that I had forgotten her birthday – unfortunately I don't think she had a chance to spend her present. However since she died on my birthday, I will never forget the day of her death.

I first met Jennipher in 2004 when she was just starting treatment for AIDs. She had agreed to be open with her status and to encourage others to get tested and, where necessay, start treatment. This became her life's mission and she fought very hard for her clients.


Jennipher introduced me to many of the support groups she helped establish. She helped them access support from NGOs or the Government and made a huge difference to the lives of many. Some would not be alive today without Jennipher. She taught me, through engagement with her groups, to understand better what poverty looks like. When I heard a headmen say that they had decided not to get tested for AIDs because he knew that they could not find money to get to a clinic to collect the drugs and when ladies said they literally hadn't got enough energy to plant maize seed without extra food, I started to understand the reality of poverty.


For people living this sort of life the idea that they must contribute in order to obtain aid makes no sense. Without external help these people would continue in extreme poverty. Jennipher enabled me to help with a payment for transport or to provide the community contribution for a project. In this way a hundred pounds or two could become thousands and some of the poorest peope were able to have a borehole or maize and fertiliser, pigs, chickens, goats etc. and have a chance at least to have food for a while.

Jennipher was a very generous person taking into her home many orphaned children. I will always remember once, when she was talking to me, she told me that she had picked up a client with her bicycle-ambulance. The lady was in the final stages of pregnancy and she gave birth before reaching the clinic, she also died on the journey. Jennipher asked me what she should do. Of course I had no idea. She said that she was willing to look after the child at her home, but couldn't afford dried milk for the few months until the baby could take porridge. I was happy to be given the privilege of paying for a little milk and giving the child the opportunity of a resonable life. Jennipher brought up this little boy. He is now 10 years old and a great joy to know – I hope that along with the other children he will be looked after in the future, now that Jennipher is no longer around to support them. Jennipher's family is like an extension of my family and although I will do my best to continue to provide support the children it now now become more challenging.


In 2014 Jennipher was eventually granted a visa to visit the UK. She relished every moment, embracing all the new experiences, from double decker buses to the underground. She enjoyed visiting London – including Buckingham Palace, which she remembered when she watched the Queen's funeral in September. She found paddling in the sea a step too far, but bravely walked over the Millenium Bridge. She was pleased to be taken around a Leonard Cheshire Home by one of the residents in an electric wheelchair – something she had not seen before. She even visited Slimbridge and remarked about it during my past visit.


There is no doubt that Jennipher was a one-off. People who have encountered her will invariably remember her! In the early days of our friendship Jennipher was regarded by many as a great annoyance and irritation. If she wanted help for someone she didn't give up easily! I remember one day at the hospital a doctor asked me if Jennipher was annoying me. I responded “no, she is my friend”. In future years Jennipher was looked up to as a pillar of society and she was welcomed. For the past few years she was given a small salary for the work she did in the community. She has spoken on the local radio station, has been invited to talk in other parts of the Country and even invited to speak in neighbouring countries allowing her to travel quite widely.

I am proud to have known Jennipher and like to think that our partnership enabled us to do much more together than we could possibly have achieved independently.

Jennipher was a very special friend and I will miss her enormously. May she rest in peace.


With love and prayers,


Chris



Friday, October 21, 2022

PIZZ School A Wonderful Project



My main reason for visiting Zambia this year was to meet with Mrs Sianga who has become a great friend over the years.

As I have said in previous blogs, she is the inspiration who made me return to Monze year after year to learn a little about the people, the culture and theirchallenges and get to make some friends in the process.

As a nurse Mrs. Sianga was supporting people dying of AIDS when I met her in 2003. The women died leaving orphans. It was to support these children and keep them off the streets that she started PIZZ School for orphaned and vulnerable children. Over the years the school has developed and with the help of donors, who are also committed to the support of these children, many students have been given the opportunity to develop and reach some of the great potential they possess.


I spent quite a lot of time time with Mrs. and Mr. Sianga during this visit trying to provide support during what is very difficult time for them. Mrs. Sianga is not well – suffering from high blood pressure. The school has continued to provide remarkable support for the children through COVID, however it is possible that new donors will need to be sought to ensure that the prospects of the children are not compromised.

On Monday evening – my last full day in Monze – Mr. and Mrs. Sianga took me to a good restaurant for a farewell meal. We chatted about many things including the future of the children. My nshima and Talapia (also known as St. Peter's fish) was excellent! Mrs. Sianga told me that when she received a vaccine booster she recognised a young man. He was a former student – now a lab technician. I told her about meeting Samson who was rescued with his brother by Mrs. Sianga. I told her he is now working in a shop outside Monze Market and she told me that Alick, his brother, is now a bricklayer and a very good one.


I travelled to Lusaka on Tuesday. While waiting for the bus, a boy came over to me and said he knew me because he used to be a student at PIZZ School – he was working for one of the bus companies. Arriving in Lusaka I caught a taxi to Longacres Lodge. In Lusaka there has been a lot of work on the roads – generally for the better! Robots (traffic lights) are now common and many bridges, or overpasses, have been constructed at roundabouts to ease traffic flow. One such has been constructed since my last visit at Longacres and it seems to have changed the nature of the place, as well as confusing me no end!

On Wednesday I rose at about 6.30 and then wondered how to fill the next few hours until 22 hrs! I had breakfast and formally checked out at 10, leaving my cases at reception, by which time I had printed boarding cards for my flights and topped up my talktime. I then headed for the Catholic Cathedral which is just behind the hotel – though it is a good walk around the roads - there being no obvious short cut.

I have previously found the cathedral a pleasant place to spend some time on my final day in Zambia. At first it appeared closed, but I found a small door ajar around the side and spent some time in prayer.


I remembered a grotto, mirroring the one in Lourdes where St. Bernadette is said to have seen Our Lady, the mother of Jesus, and which meant so much to me when I used to visit for many years with very sick and severely disabled people. I have always felt blessed because I feel closest to God when I am with the most vulnerable in society and gain so much from developing friendships with them. In Lourdes there are always flowers and birds – mainly sand martins.

The grotto at the cathedral has been moved and enhanced. It is set in what I term a lovely garden with trees, grass and flowers attracting many birds. I was treated to seeing a bird with enormous tails – I believe it was a paradise flycatcher. Swifts flew above and a variety of small birds, that I couldn't identify, flitted about keeping me company. On my way out of the cathedral complex I was treated to a display by a violet breasted roller.

In previous years I have visited Kabwata village which provides craftsmen with an opportunity to sell their products. I hadn't a map with me this year, so I wasn't sure that I would find it. I set off from Longacres and almost immediately came across a man with a stall selling some reasonable quailty items. He told me he also sold at Kabwata. I had plenty of time still to kill, so I told him that I would return and buy something. I half-heartedly headed off, vaguely thinking I might find the village, but soon decided to enjoy a walk and return to buy from this craftsman instead.


My route from Longacres took me past the Holiday Inn, various Government offices and State House. A little further I found the Anglican Cathedral. I hadn't visited before, so I decided to check it out. I enjoyed looking around at the variety of altars and noticed that everywhere there were screens installed. This is an innovation I think Catholic Churches should adopt! I had a chance to pray again. The cleaner was obviously enjoying her work, listening to appropriate music as she worked.

I returned, but by this time could feel that I was becoming dehydrated. So I told my man to be patient while I got myself a cup of tea and a bit more cash.

As usual when I again came to the artist, I got a bit carried away and filled my backpack with various objects. I couldn't resist a large giraffe, then wondered whether it would fit in my case!

I returned to the cathedral grotto with my goods and spent more time with Mary, her son and the birds!

When Mawini heard that I was back in Zambia she said that she would like to see me. I failed to see her in Monze so she agreed to come to the hotel to meet me.

Mawini told me that she never thought that she would go to school because her mother couldn't afford to buy her the uniform etc. She was surprised and delighted when she was offered a place at PIZZ School. She initially wore her own clothes, but was proud when she was given a new uniform. She thinks that she first came to know me when she was 8 or 9. Mawini was a keen and bright student and gradually came towards the top in class – eventually becoming number one. She passed her exams at grade 7 and grade 9 and was sponsored to complete her education at a secondary boarding school. I met her before she took her grade 12 exams and she told me that she wanted to be a doctor. It was clear that she was extremely bright and had that potential.


A few weeks later I was at a church service with David Steiner and we had been invited to say a few words. When I stood up I had no idea what I would say, but I remembered Mawini and I told some of her story. After the service a doctor in the congregation said that he would like to sponsor Mawini and so she was given the opportunity to study at the University of Zambia in Lusaka. God works in mysterious ways!

Some confusion with some exams meant she had to change to a veterinary course midway through her studies.

Mawini showed me her card authorising her as a veterinary surgeon. She is working currently at the University and seems extremely busy. She told me that she is very happy as a vet. She will be flying to Kenya in a couple of weeks to take part in a conference and hopes to go to Japan later in the year to study for a doctorate.

Like many of the students from PIZZ, Mawini would never have had a chance to pursue her dreams without the care provided at the school. There are currently about 650 students at the school – all with their dreams - and in years to come many more orphaned and vulnerable children, with their own dreams will hope to receive the care and support needed to bring them to fulfilment. I really hope that the school will be able to continue to provide this.


With love and prayers,


Chris.


Saturday, October 15, 2022

Visiting Jennipher's Village


Time flies! This will almost certainly be the last blog I write in Zambia this year.

Jennipher rang before 9 hrs to say that she had sent someone to pick me up and take me to Pemba. At about 9.30 the driver, or the conductor! of the car rang to say he was on his way. He rang again at about 10 hrs. Jennipher asked me to ring him a few minutes later to check that he was still coming! He arrived at about 10.20 in, by local standards, a very smart car.


So we started off towards Pemba picking up passengers as we went. I was privileged having the front passenger seat to myself. There were at least 5 people in the back of this small car at one point – plus a child or two which aren't counted here. Eventually we picked up speed at came to the outskirts of the town. We dropped off two passengers and turned around heading back into town! When we reached the centre we turned again and swapped drivers!. We then slowly set off again in the direction of Pemba picking up further passengers whenever possible. I suppose that by about 11.15 we were out of Monze and on our way.

At Pemba Jennipher was waiting – probably for the past three hours! She swiftly loaded me and Solomon into another car and we set of on a dirt road into the bush. Gradually the roads became narrower and very far from flat! I have driven one or two of these myself and they are very challenging.


Jennipher's village is about 5 km from Pemba. This is the village where she grew up. A Zambian village is not a place with tarred roads, mains electricity or water – though these days mobile phones are commonplace and the signal is good! Even cars are a rarity. I was told that you could go for a week without seeing a car. Buildings are far apart. A family might have a few structures – a house, kitchen, store etc. Then 200 or 300 metres away another family would have the same. It was unusual to be able to see a neighbours house from another. It would be found by following a winding path or two through the light bush.



For me it was wonderful to be somewhere without any traffic noise! Beautiful peaceful countryside, but of course I can now return to my comforts.

The young children cannot walk the 4 km each way to school so they are wanting to build a pre-school in the village. They have started constructing a church and thought that since services are only once a week, they could use the structure for the rest of the week. They can get bricks, but would need to buy cement. Something like £60 is needed to complete the job.


They have two boreholes nearby, but the land is high and at this time of year the boreholes are dry. Women have to walk at least 2 km to fetch water. It's possible that the boreholes can be made deeper, but this sounds like an expensive job.

The youngsters haven't anything to do and are tempted to go into town and get into trouble. They want footballs and netballs. At least here I was able to help with two footballs which were given to me to bring to Zambia – one which the boys joyfully took and the other that the girls were given.

Many other challenges face this very poor community. A group of women who are vulnerable through AIDS or being widowed have got together as a formal group. They want to start raising village chickens to make some income. They will also need to find money to register the group in order to access seed, fertiliser and other items.


We walked around the village with various members of the community including Jennipher's aunt. We visited several graves including those of her mother and paternal grandmother. Jennipher would like to make the graves better by making a concrete top and a covering of black tiles – as would others in the community. At the moment the graves are marked with mounds of earth and a scattering of concrete pieces – the names of those interred are not present. They rely on relatives recognising the graves.

I try to help a bit where I can, but my resources are limited. It would be nice to be able to make a significant difference to the lives of the people in this village. It was a memorable day and I hope to visit again when I return to Monze.

I was provided with village chicken and nshima for lunch and after listening to the people and thanking them for their welcome we made our way back.

Bye from Monze,



Chris