Wednesday 16th
April
Jennipher arrived just before lunch on Monday. I told her to meet me
after lunch and we would go through the visa application together. We
amended one or two items slightly and when eventually we were both
satisfied I hit the button to confirm the details. I had done my best
to explain some of the fields where I was unable to put a sensible
answer through lack of space. After this there is no turning back!
The next stage was to book an appointment. We decided to choose
Thursday morning to give Jennipher time to get the last letter
sorted. There was a choice of where to take the papers – but only
one centre in Zambia! This is now a FEDEX location in Longacres,
Lusaka – no longer the British High Commission. I was informed that
if I chose this location there would be an additional fee, but I
wasn't told how much. Suspecting that it would still be cheaper than
a trip to South Africa I continued! The next step was to pay. Since I
had chosen to use Lusaka for the appointment it was no longer
possible to pay in person. I had to pay on line by credit or debit
card, which isn't something everyone in Zambia has - fortunately I
can manage! The cost was a bit over 1,000 RAN which I discovered was
South African Rand and in fact about what I expected to pay anyway.
Having no printer the final stage would need to wait.
I am used to completing forms and working with computers but I must
admit the whole process was very stressful. Later when I found
confirmation letters sent by e-mail and followed the links I was told
unless I registered on another site the interview couldn't take
place. I could easily have overlooked the link and can't see why this
is necessary – there was no suggestion anywhere else that this was
a required step. Even having registered on this site, which I assumed
was connected with FeDex, I was concerned that it was Jennipher's
application but my registration. It is almost as if there is a
deliberate attempt to intimidate.
Jennipher told me she had an appointmen to see the Coordinator of the
District Aids Task Force who was going to write a letter, but wanted
to see me first. On the way I was greeted by my friend who travels
Monze with his set of weighing scales balanced on his knees as he
wheels his chair along. I asked him to remind me of his name –
Muluti – and wrote it down. Somtimes this is the only way I can
learn some of the African names. I weighed myself and gave him an
appropriate contribution (I am afraid I am never prepared to give him
his normal asking price! To be honest I don't even know what it
is!!). It was good to see him again, I was beginning to worry when I
hadn't come across him depite being in Monze for some days.
By
the time we arrived at the District Offices Sichali
was deep in a meeting with Teddy and others. It was probably a little
after 3 pm. I first met the Coordinator ,Sichali, soon after she
arrived in her post about three years ago. I seem to recall a rather
heated exchange – mainly from Jennipher - because it was claimed
that Jennipher lived just outside the Monze District boundary. Of
course Jennipher knew the history and boundary demarcation. Soon
after this meeting, Sichali visited Jennipher's home and some of her
support groups and I joined one of the gatherings. She has been very
supportive of Jennipher and her work since that time and is a good
advocate for her.
While
we waited Jennipher took me to meet the new District Commissioner to
get his approval. I agreed that the DATF coorodinator was the best
person to vouch for Jennipher, since she knew her well. We received
the blessing of the DC.
At
a little after 17hrs Sichali was free and after some discussion she
produced a positive letter.
My
plans for an early start for Chisamba on Tuesday had to be abandoned
since I had yet to get papers printed and I rely on the internet cafe
- which by 18 hrs would be shut.
Somewhat
worn out I returned to the priest's house and chilled a little before
supper. It was after 23 hrs when I had sorted all I needed to do for
the visa and the trip to Chisamba. I was glad that I wasn't getting
up at 5!
Jennipher
had agreed to get to Monze at 8 am to pick up the letter from
Sichali. It would be printed and ready by then. I headed to the
internet cafe and before 9 am had everything else printed. I rang
Jennipher to meet up and she told me that she was on her way!! I knew
that Sichali had to leave for a meeting at 8.30 and rushed around to
find the offices locked. Fortunately she was just leaving and told me
where to find the letter.
- When Jennipher arrived she had the final letter with her and she was coming with me to Lusaka! The bus was waiting!!
- Unfortunately I wasn't ready.
- We missed her bus and I took the opportunity to get one more letter printed.
- I returned to the bus stop where another bus driver claimed to be about to leave.
- Where was Jennipher? For some reason she had wandered up the high street.
- OK I bought tickets for both of us and asked the driver to pick her up.
- On entering the bus I saw plenty of empty seats.
- Another call to Jennipher told her to come to the bus stop.
- The bus then sets off!!
- They spot Jennipher and she jumps aboard – all is well.
Life
here often resembles a Broadway Farce!
Our
Journey to Lusaka was without incident apart from our driver deciding
that a section of the road being repaired was fine and provided an
opportunity to overtake all the vehicles following the diversion on
the rough side road. Not unexpected ly eventually the other end of
the diversion was reached with a road block and workmen directing the
traffic. Our driver became very apologetic as he made his way past
the barriers!
We
ate at Lumumba bus station after which Jennipher and I went our
separate ways. With little delay at Lusaka or getting a taxi at
Chisamba crossroads I arrived at the Chisamba Guest House by about
5.20 pm. (6hrs or so after setting off from Monze.)
Approaching
the Guest House a guy greeted me and assured me that I knew him.
Maybe I met him one year but I am not sure – he claimed I was with
some young ladies, which I sttrenuously deny!! There was a group of
volunteers (including young ladies) who came some years back and I
suspect that he thought I was with them – I think I also met him (I
was alone I hasten to add!) a few years back. Cetride gave me a warm
welcome and showed me to my room.
Persis
joined me for supper and we talked about the project - Kaliyangile.
Today
I spent meeting the Kaliyangile committee, all of whom I know from my
previous visits. We are experiencing some issues with keeping staff
on the project. The reasons are complex but the large rise in
government wages is one issue. We cannot afford to compete with the
new government rates and unless we can provide other motivation, it
will continue to cause problems.
There
are plenty of livestock around the site and a good maize harvest is
predicted.
This
year the Zamtel network doesn't appear to exist. I am therefore cut
off! However I have the internet and if necessary can use Skype to
make calls. Receiving them isn't so easy.
I
was offered what is evidently a delicacy for supper – cow's feet! I
said that I would try them expecting some recognisable meat to be
present. They turned out to be skin, fat and marrow. I expect they
are an acquired taste! I managed to eat most of what wasn't bone, but
will probably opt forchicken next time!
There
are of course other delicacies here. The unique vegetables and
unusual fruit I usually find very pleasant – other foods exercise
the mind a little because of texture or tradition. I don't expect any
inswa this visit since these flying ants appear at the onset of the
rains. However at the priest's house last week there were some
interesting bite sized objects that had a familiar look to them. I
didn't remember the Zambian name but a rough translation is
caterpillar! Apparently they are very nutritious. I ate a few (they
are quite large!) and they were OK – in fact easier to swallow than
cow's feet!! (unfortunately I had to delete the picture – maybe the
opportuniyty will re-occur!)
Please
note that if any of those reading this are planning to come out for
their first visit, such delicacies are not compulsory!!
Take
care,
Chris
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