Thursday, August 1, 2019

Bye Bye Monze - Hallo Lusaka

Saturday 20th July 2019

How time flies!

In fact my last post was sent from the UK! At the Curia, Access to the internet is successful about 50% of the time – the day before my departure was one of the 50% of days when I had no access. The speed wasn't bad once I connected. Here we expect fast internet (although perhaps not superfast everywhere) all the time.

I called on Ireen to collect my shirts on Monday afternoon, however they weren't quite ready!! She told me she would call at my house at 19 hrs and deliver them! On Tuesday morning she said they were ready for collection, if I called by on the way to the bus.

Obert arrived at 8.30 am as agreed and we called at Ireen's shop. She suggested we took a seat while she just finished sewing the linings!! I had to get yet more cash from the ATM and arranged to meet Diven at Roadhouse where I would pick up the big bus (coach). At least Diven was already there – or so he said!! When I returned to Ireen and Obert my shirts were nearly ready! After a few more minutes she asked me if it was ok, if I put the buttons on myself! Oh! and was I also ok with making the button holes!! I will eventually get my shirts finished, though as of today I am still waiting!!

I said goodbye to Ireen and Obert took me to Tooters Roadhouse. The big bus we had seen pass us a few minutes earlier was ready to leave, so I quickly bought tickets, then looked for Diven! I rang him and he said he was in a taxi and was almost there!! I could wait no longer and entered the bus with Diven closing in – but not quite fast enough!! I then realised that I last saw my luggage in the boot of Obert's car!! However, I wasn't too concerned because in practice things like sorting out luggage usually works in Zambia.

The morning had been a good example of life in Zambia. Time is something that is expected to stretch and where you are at any point in time is also quite flexible. Then every so often people and events obey very strict timescales. The difficulty is understanding when now means sometime in the future and when it means now or even sometime in the past!!

I didn't expected to leave Monze before 10 or 11hrs, but left at 9 hrs and was at my hotel in Lusaka before 14hrs. This meant that I could relax and wind down for the rest of the day.

Later in the day I was surprised to see monkeys in the car park of the hotel!! Apparently they came from State House (the President's residence) which was nearby! I sometimes come across a monkey or two, but I didn't expect to see them in the centre of Lusaka!

A few years back I found Kabwata Cultural Village and decided to make another visit this year. I found my way with a little direction – I suppose it was a 40 minute walk from the hotel. This 'village' is actually a large group of huts where local artists sell their goods. If you want something handmade locally by craftsmen, this is a good place to visit. Unfortunately the marketing doesn't seem to be very good and customers are few. Nothing is priced, so be prepared to barter!!

Previously I had resisted buying at the first hut, but on this occasion I decided there was something I wanted and succumbed! However, I was still determined to get to the final huts, because they get even less custom than the others. I made another visit to an ATM on the way to ensure I had plenty of money to buy goods and still have enough for taxi fares, meals etc. However, I hadn't reached the final huts before I started spending my taxi fare!! I did reach the end, but had severely gone over budget. On the way out I continued to be accosted by people who hadn't received my custom! Gradually the money for meals etc. also vanished, until I only had a few small notes left. Before I left Kabwata Village every coin in my pocket had also gone and attempts were made to barter for my phone and sandals!! I did draw a line at this!!

So I left the village with a backpack full of goods – oh and also a locally made bag which was also full - I was persuaded to buy the bag to allow me to continue buying other objects!! I was now relying on finding an ATM which would give me more money to enable me to eat and get to the airport!! I had literally no cash at all and was in trouble if the ATM failed!

I will take a break now and try to complete the story of the trip soon.

Chris


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