Visiting Friends for Lunch

Thursday 28^th November

Yesterday I was invited to lunch my Mr & Mrs Musika – Obert's parents. Obert collected me and I was treated to village chicken and nshima. This was my first meal of nsima this visit. I sat with Obert and his father talking and eating. I thought three lumps of nsima would be too much, but went back for the final lump in the end. Of course a Zambian meal is eaten with the fingers, not with cutlery!

I enjoyed the meal and the conversation. After the meal we were joined by Luwendo - Obert's young daughter. She is a beautiful little girl. She has a couple of toes missing or deformed on each foot. This seems to be a genetic feature. Obert's brother has similar issues. I don't for a minute think this will affect her progress – especially with a father like Obert.

Obert told me that he went to a school where there were a lot of children with disabilities – though not all the children. He told them while he was there that he wanted to drive a car, but they said it would not be possible. (To remind you Obert has one leg) When he got his driving licence he visited the school, jumped out of the drivers seat and joined them as if it was nothing unusual. He says that his driving has inspired some of the children at the school. He has offered to take me to visit the school – I hope I get the chance to fit it in.

A lady appeared and said that she was the mother of a girl Grace who I helped previously with a little for school fees. She is now about to complete her teaching course, but won't be able to take her final exams if she doesn't clear her outstanding balance. Grace was working as a maid to try to raise the money, but will still be short!

My little friend Nancy appeared. I wanted a picture but she wasn't inclined to smile! Nancy is very small and thin. Her mother struggles to raise enough for food. Nancy walks 4 or 5 Kilometres to school each day and has the potential to go far in life, but how do you learn when you are hungry. I gave a little to pass on to Nancy's mother for some food and a little extra so that Nancy could buy something from the tuck shop. I am sure that Nancy will soon be going to school hungry again.

Mr Musika has just received 200 chicks – they are now 3 days old. If they can manage to buy the feed they will fatten the chickens and hopefully make enough profit to pay the teacher at the pre-school they run from their home plot. They have started to feed the children who come to the pre-school. The numbers are increasing!! It is hard for us to realise what a draw a little food is to the local children (and it really is only a little bit of food). One of the local children has painted the outside of the classroom – I was very impressed.

Each month a group of families who have children with disabilities gather together at the house. They have set up a little business scheme. Everyone pays in a little each month which is invested into chickens or other projects and the profits are shared. It is important to provide opportunities for these families to get together and provide mutual support. Obert said that there were children who came to his school and covered their faces because they were hidden at home and had no experience of mixing with others.

I enjoyed my visit and Obert dropped me back at the Curia in his taxi.

Today I had another unexpected visitor. A lady called Agnes had located me! Apparently I met her six years ago. I think that I am going to have to refuse any further uninvited guests. If word gets around that a rich white man is staying at the Curia there could be queues of people every day – which will not only be a problem for me, but also the Curia!

In this instance I invited Agnes to come in. She started by telling me that she hadn't eaten today or yesterday. At least I could offer her a banana or two. She had written me a long letter telling me that she needed help to grow some maize. The story is the same one I keep hearing. People make very little doing a little business – usually much less than £1 a day in profit - often 20p or less. However, they have access to a little land where they grow maize. This is the way they survive. However, this year they grew no maize – hence they are hungry. She has a friend who is joining with her to hire an ox drawn plough because she isn't strong enough to use a hoe. She also needs some seed. I told her that I would help her this time because we were coming up to Christmas. She promised not to tell anyone that I helped!!

It can be very difficult when you are confronted with a situation where a small intervention can make a huge difference to someone's life. However, I cannot help everyone - and unless we get some more rain soon all the maize seed planted to date will be wasted! But with decent rain Agnes might be able to feed her family throughout next year from that one bag of seed.

Raymond called around this afternoon, arriving with the electricity. I had a cup of tea and he enjoyed some cool juice now that my fridge is working again!

By the way the water is also flowing!

Raymond is busy setting up his own charity. We chatted about the hospital, politics etc for an hour.

While the power was present I headed to the staff room to get on the Internet. The power problems have restricted my Internet access of late. My Yahoo e-mail account wanted verification – probably because of activity in Zambia.

Nothing is quite as easy as in the UK. The Internet operates at a speed which is an order of magnitude slower. Sometimes when I attempt to do something it times out before the operation completes. In addition when there is an issue, verification is often via text messages sent to the mobile. In Zambia it is not practical to use my UK SIM card. I swap for a Zambian SIM and can keep in contact with friends here in Monze at a reasonable cost. Of course this doesn't receive any messages from Yahoo – or from my bank!

Anyway it has been a few days since I accessed my e-mails. I have over 200 in my inbox. It will take at least ½ hour just to delete them and the system will slow further if I don't!!

With 195 left the power vanished!!

If power returns at a reasonable hour I will try to get on tonight – otherwise it will be when I next get a chance!

It is easy for people back in the UK to imagine that those in Zambia can communicate as easily as we can in the UK. Often what seems to us like a simple request can use up valuable hours in Zambia.

Best wishes,

Chris

Bird Watching and the Difference an Early Cup of Tea can make

Tuesday 26^th November

Power came just after 10 pm on Sunday night – sort off!! It wasn't very powerful power!! In fact it was only strong enough to illuminate a few lights – others failed to come on. The same was the case throughout the Curia (and probably all that part of town with electricity.) The sockets seemed to be inactive – so no tea!!

             BECOMING GREENER

Monday morning I had a visitor at just after 7 am. He was a guy called Kelvin who had apparently asked me some years ago, when I was staying at Homecraft, whether I had contacts who could give him a job. I am sure that I will have disappointed me then. Some people think that I might work with an NGO (Non Governmental Organisation) operating in Zambia. Kelvin told me that he has social work qualifications, but has yet to find a job that uses these qualifications. In Monze there is little scope – especially at the moment. He is currently working in the laundry at Monze Mission Hospital as a General worker. His wife is studying to be a teacher, but needs to find 350 ZMW (£20) or she will not be allowed to take the exams at the end of the year. I don't usually provide support unless I know a person reasonably well, however he had obviously gone to some length to seek me out and no doubt needed courage – another alternative Christmas present!!

I had nothing planned for the rest of the day. I have no formal role in Zambia any more. I could come for a holiday! However, I feel guilty if I am not busy – and you will see from my blog that most of the time I am pretty active and rarely alone! However, we cannot make positive decisions without periods of quiet contemplation. There is a tremendous amount to think about here in Monze – especially when so many are hungry.

I sat under the veranda and did a little bird watching. There were a couple of starlings in the garden. If the light catches European Starlings they are beautiful birds. However in Africa the starlings are painted in metallic greens or blues. This couple were iridescent green – spectacular birds! I saw a Village Weaver or two. A couple of black birds with spectacular yellow gapes were doing a courting dance. Large yellow dragonflies are very common this year. I walked around the garden and took a few photos.

                                                                                                        A REAL MANGO

“Power” returned at about 16hrs. It was a little stronger. I found that I could eventually boil a kettle full of water and made a cup of tea. It was not possible, however, to use the cooker. So another cold salad was the order of the day. At least the laptop and the phone were recharged.

After an hour or two the power left again! By 23 hrs I decided to turn in for the night feeling a little drained despite such a quiet day.

I woke around 7 hrs and was astonished to find we had power! Not since I arrived in Monze has the power been present in the morning. It wasn't full power, but surprisingly after some time I was able to boil the kettle and make some tea. Suddenly life was great!!

I realised however that the power being low meant that my fridge hadn't been operating for two days, I bought some meat a few days ago. Some sausages have been in the fridge section and some 'steak on the bone' in the freezer section. The vegetables etc. I am not so worried about.

However, I headed for a meeting with Mrs. Sianga with renewed vigour. I was enjoying the walk, the hallos and children waving and greeting as I passed. Unusually I had to wait for a train at the level crossing. A little further on a group of school children gave me high fives all ten of them!!

I met Mr Sianga along the road and he told me that his wife was waiting for me.

We talked for about 4 hours!! Last time I came a friend gave me a donation to give to the school. I agreed with Mrs. Sianga that this should be used as an emergency fund were money is needed immediately – and that she should then try to get it reimbursed from Hands Around the World. There are many occasions when money is suddenly needed. The Education Department often institutes fees which need to be paid w ithin days or severe penalties are incurred. PIZZ School has not had funds available in the past but for the past few months these demands can be met. In the end this saves money for the charity as well. Unfortunately the photocopying machine is not working. It should have been replaced before the exams were imminent. The cost of a new machine would not have cost much more than has had to have been spent on photocopying outside. Everything is made worse by the lack of power. There is much demand for photocopying for school exams and the providers need a generator!

The current situation brings huge challenges. The lack of electicity also means a lack of water – so drums of water need to be fetched to Mrs. Sianga's offices and the pre-school to use in the toilets. Maize which was bought for the children's food needs to be ground. The nearby grinding mill needs electricity, so a more distant machine is used which runs on solar. All these operations add to the cost.

Agnes and her mother came to see us. Agnes is a girl I have seen over the years. She is one of the children who have a UK sponsor. Recently while she was staying with her uncle in Kafue – between Monze and Lusaka – she became pregnant. She is only fourteen. She says the boy came from the Copperbelt and she knows little more. Mrs. Sianga would follow this up with the police, but there is nothing to go on.

Life in Zambia is very complicated and I don't try to make sense of much of it. Poverty makes life very difficult. I am sure for many there is little hope in their lives. They would like to have nice clothes, good food – and water at their house and electricity is a dream! Anyway I am sure there are lots of temptations for a young girl. In any case we have a situation with a young girl who will soon become a mother. Mrs. Sianga and Killian were concerned about the sponsor and their reaction if the girl was to transfer to Kafue as she would like. My response was that they should do whatever is best for Agnes and her child. Sponsors need to understand some of the realities of life in Zambia. There are many reasons why a child will move from a school and relocate. Sometimes parents or guardians die and they move to be with other relatives. Families break up for other reasons. Life is complicated everywhere, but here the children at PIZZ School live in the most fragile of circumstances.

I am writing this blog with minimal power. Sometimes the laptop detects a little power – at other times it doesn't. I started with no battery power and have hovered around 10 – 15% for the past half hour or so. The power is nowhere near enough to boil water, run the fridge or more to the point to pump water into the tank which supplies the Curia and my house. Water ran out at tea time!! Fortunately a tap outside is lower and I realised that I could fill bottles and a large bowl. This should keep me going for a couple of days if necessary. I just have to implement a few severe water management rules!!

MY HOUSE FROM THE GARDEN

Mrs. Sianga received a call this morning from a nephew. So many tragic incidents, but the loss of three members of the family like this is horrific. Mrs. Sianga told me that a niece of hers died in childbirth a few months ago leaving six children. She is worried that the baby who survived will not live long. The environment into which she has been born will make it very difficult to survive. Where there are relatives who can look after the child the prospects can be OK, but it seems in this case the grandmother is very old and lives in a very rural area. I have been privileged to have been able to support some such babies with a supply of dried milk for a few months and the children have done well with their adopted parents – in a couple of cases that is Jennipher!

There are always huge challenges providing for the developing community of PIZZ School and its Alumni! As the school has developed and thrived, its success brings more challenges. The school was established by Mrs. Sianga primarily to keep the children from going on the streets. The problem is that with little industry and work opportunities in Monze, children who complete grade 9 without progressing to secondary school or some other form of training are likely to do just that – end up on the streets. In my former role as Project Co-ordinator I fought hard to support at least those that had managed to pass their grade 9 exams to move on to secondary schools. Further success at secondary school has equipped children with grade 12 certificates. Perhaps in Lusaka this might get them a reasonable position, but in Monze many will again be left with nowhere to go. In the UK moving into higher education is looked on as a right if the grades are reached. Though admittedly a student now has to accept a lifetime of debt as a result!! In Zambia the costs are beyond most and certainly beyond any who attend PIZZ School. I wonder whether a group of professionals could be persuaded to band together and provide a fund to give the opportunity they had to those in Zambia less fortunate. Zambia desperately needs more good professional people, doctors, lawyers, accountants, engineers, computer specialists etc. We cannot just say that the challenge is too great – rather let us see how we can give these children and through them the wider community a much better future.

Returning from my meeting I called into Diven's house. He was saying that he didn't believe that he would ever make his business pay in its current position. He told me that he can sit in his hop all day and receive only 10 Kwatcha (55p) or 20 Kwatcha (£1.10) This is only enough for food, but not enough to renew his stock. He usually goes to the market and can make perhaps 50 Kwacha. As always there is a lot to ponder. I am very glad that I decided to come at this time. I am learning a lot. The reality of climate change and its very wide ranging effects can be seen here in Monze now! The whole economy is devastated. The farmers have no crop, they are hungry! They have no money! The marketeers of Monze (almost everyone who isn't a farmer!) have no customers, they have no money and food prices are higher – they are hungry! The businesses cannot operate because they need power which only comes on for an hour or two during the day. Butchers that have no generator are closed!

At least I don't think I am doing any harm. I am spending a little money with the marketeers and putting a little more into the economy here and there. I have no illusions that I am making any real difference. I hope that the fact that I care means something.

With my love and prayers,

Chris

The Power of Electricity

Sunday 24^th November

I awoke at 1.15 am to find my bedroom light on! A little after 23 hrs I decided that I wasn't going to wait longer for power – I think it was the right decision.

I'll admit that for me the erratic power supply is difficult and lowers my spirits. I am used to my hot cup of tea to start the day – perhaps I should say I am dependant on it!! Waiting until 3 pm for by morning cup doesn't put me in the best frame of mind! Then, typically, as the sun goes down, the electricity goes again – if it has come on at all! The lamps provide some light, but it's different and fails to provide the same comforting feeling! Yesterday and enormous beetle was clinging to a door leading to my veranda. I think that later it found itself outside and decided to try to break through the window after dark. It hissed and crashed against the glass. Somehow he got in - without breaking the window! He flew across my living room attacking other small creatures ( those only an inch or two in length). Eventually he settled, but as you might imagine in the half light it is difficult to relax with this going on – the body of this beetle must be 3 inches long and about an inch across!

Fortunately my laptop has a good battery, so for most of the evening I can listen to music and write – or play games! When the battery runs out it is hard to read with the lamps, which also attract lots of flying insects! It is then a question of either waiting and hoping for another cup of tea and a chance of getting on the internet – or going to bed.

Of course these issues pail into insignificance compared with those of so many people here who are literally struggling to survive.

I went to mass this morning. I arrived just before 10 hrs to find everyone already seated and the service well underway. Today is the feast of Christ the King in the Catholic Church. On significant feast days the children's mass, English mass and Chitonga masses are combined so that the whole community can celebrate together. I had forgotten both the feast day and the process! So the 10 am mass started at 9 am. In the UK I would have arrived after mass finished, but here they had reached the second reading – which would be passed within 15 minutes in the UK!

I had decided that I didn't feel up to the afternoon meeting at St. Veronica's and made my apologies. I returned home and lay down for a few minutes. I think that the non stop rushing here and there together with the difficulty dealing with people who all have major issues – and dire tea deficiency!! - were taking its toll. I would not achieve anything positive by forcing myself to walk another 4 Km and meet in the 33ºC temperature for a couple of hours.

I had a couple of banana sandwiches and some juice and felt better.

I have seen few birds that I have been able to positively identify this year. There is a patch of garden which has previously had waist high grass covering most of it. Even I daren't venture out into this terrain for fear of snakes. This time the grass is just beginning to grow back – though it is not turning green at the speed of the grass verges – I should go for a wander and get another perspective, while I can safely do so. There are a few small birds that are flitting through. In the past I have regularly seen Snake Eagles and Black Storks. I suppose that their food doesn't exist around here at this time.

I was walking East towards Hichanga Dam some years back and I remember thinking how difficult it is to identify birds in Africa. Each species seems to have dozens of members. I spotted a black bird with a forked tail – about the size of a UK blackbird. I looked in my book of birds of Southern Africa and was delighted to read that the only completely black bird with a forked tail is a Fork Tailed Drongo – it was a delight to see one in my garden yesterday. Today I also saw a distinctive bird which turns out to be a Namaqua Dove. I have seen them before, but not with such striking plumage. They are the prettiest dove I have ever seem even without the stiking plumage. They are very slender with a long tail- today the bird (a male) had a striking black neck and shoulders. I suspect that the mating season has begun and the birds will be displaying their finery – I might even spot a Bishop this year!! There are some canaries that are very common in the garden – I am not sure of the variety. Similarly I spotted a handsome weaver this afternoon – possibly a Village Weaver.

We haven't had rain for a few days and temperatures are high. I decided to have a cold shower this afternoon and it was exactly what I needed. The idea came as I watched the water storage tank overflowing. It seemed to me that I could make better use of the excess pumped water. In the UK the idea of a cold shower doesn't seem inviting. However, at this time in Monze it is a different proposition. First the outside temperature is in the 30s and secondly the water temperature is well into the 20s!! I had a long lingering shower – it was refreshing, but in no way shocking!

One of the men I know from Our Lady of the Wayside told me this morning that he wanted to see me. This is not uncommon and I know that I will be faced with someone else who has a problem, but if I know the person reasonably well, I will invite them to come and talk to me.

He arrived after 16 hrs and told me that he lives with his family of children and grandchildren and they total 12 in all. The problems facing this part of Zambia have left his family struggling for food. He usually farms a bit of land belonging to his cousin some 40 Km or so south of Monze. They grew no food this last year. The cousin had four cows but the water supplies have dried and the cattle are no more. (Cattle are dying and farmers are selling them for food.) He told me that Monze depends on the farmers. If they grow maize, they come into town and spend money. This year they have no crops – as a result the many marketeers cannot sell their produce. Combined with this a doubling in the price of maize and mealie meal means that life is becoming desperate. This gentleman's wife goes to Tanzania to buy second hand clothes. In good times this is a sound business, but now there is no market and of course their income is normally supplemented by the food they grow,

He told me that he is able to grow maize on a small piece of land about 1 Km from Diven's shop, but he cannot afford to buy any seed.

I am reminded of an occasion many years ago when Osman – a friend from the hospital who worked alongside for a while in the stores – asked if I could fund some seeds. I decided that instead of buying my father a small Christmas present, I would send him a card telling him that I used the money for his present to buy some maize seed. In the March Osman sent me a picture of himself surrounded by a field of ripe maize. My dad appreciated and never forgot that present!!

For about £15 another man will have the chance of a field of maize! - and another friend or relative will get an alternative Christmas present!!

As soon as my friend left the power went off, so I failed to cook a meal today! However, all was not lost. I made myself some coleslaw from cabbage, spring onions, green beans and sweet peppers mixed with mayonnaise. I added some roasted peanuts and a boiled egg to produce a very acceptable salad.

I know there are dire warnings about eating uncooked food, however I tell myself that if Iwash the vegetables under the tap and then in boiled water with salt, they will be fine – so far I have survived!

I will add a few photos of the house and garden, so you can see the luxury in which I am living – it is pretty good actually!

Chris

P.S. We had power today for about two hours from 3pm to 5pm. I hope it will return before 10 pm. It is now 8.45 pm and my laptop says I have another 44 minutes!! I live in hope!!

Quantum Resonance Magnetic Analyzer.

Saturday 23^rd November

I had arranged to meet Diven and his family at Food Royal for lunch.

Diven came with his wife Delia, his son Paul and daughter Lwendo. I couldn't help but notice the marked difference between Delia now and only six months ago when we last went for a meal. She has lost a lot of weight and had difficulty eating much of the food, whereas last time she really enjoyed the meal – the food was the same – fish (bream) and chips.

Paul no longer cries when he sees me and is happy to play games – it is Lwendo who is unsure, despite the fun we had last time!

After the meal we went to a shop that sells herbal medicine and claims to be able to identify all your medical issues using a machine connected to a laptop called a Quantum Resonance Magnetic Analyzer. This sounds impressive. Delia was asked to hold a metal bar while the equipment

apparently tested everything from her blood to her kidneys and liver, checked for vitamin deficiencies etc. This took less than 5 minutes and a chart appeared on the computer which allowed the practitioner to mark the issues on a prepared form – which listed all manner of possible problems. In this instance Delia managed to fail against 10 itemised issues. The woman then identified a range of medicines which would solve the problems.

We said we would consider the results before buying the medicine – the total cost of which would be 480 ZMW (Approx £25 at today's rates) For many this is a month's income and even those with a steady job it equates to the wages of a week or two. But if it would allow Delia to recover, to be mobile and able to look after the family it would be easily worth it.

I accompanied Diven and family to his house in the taxi. About a month ago Diven went to a similar clinic and also received a printout. So I asked him to see if he could find it. Eventually he produced it and the company was the same – or at least the form used to record medical problems was exactly the same – with the identical medical categories. Interestingly Delia had failed on 19 items last month and only one matched the issues causing problems today!!

Even I thought that there might be a grain of truth in the technique and possibly some of the herbal remedies might have beneficial properties, but from our comparative tests there is no reason to believe there is any merit at all in this so-called medical centre. It is sad that some people are willing to make money out of desperate vulnerable people.

I had a look at Diven's latest building idea. I worry that he will never be able to make the shop profitable – more thought and discussion is required.

On the way back home I bumped into George. I have known him from the church and St. Veronica's for many years. He was convicted of a serious crime a few years back and spent 5 years in Mazabuka Prison, despite what had happened, his wife stood by him and took him back afterwards. He told me that she had fallen off her bike and badly injured her ankle back in June, but it was gradually healing.

This morning I had an early visitor. A young man from St. Veronica's Small Christian Community came to see me. His wife developed a growth in her mouth. After tests, which didn't identify an issue; the growth was removed. After a few months however it returned, growing more vigorously. Further tests and another operation was undertaken in Lusaka. The costs of this treatment mounted up and the man is only on a small salary. He borrowed some money, but has found difficulties paying it back and interest has been added. This is another familiar story. Unless something is done to clear the debt, he is worried that he will be arrested and thrown in jail.

Angelina came around as agreed this afternoon. She brought her youngest son Nelson. He was one of the children who was supported through secondary education with funds raised by St. Gregory's parishioners in Cheltenham. He excelled at school and did very well in his exams, gaining a good Grade 12 certificate. That was in 2017. He wanted to continue into further education, but the costs are completely beyond his family's means. At the moment he earns 200 ZMW per month (About £11).

Nelson is the only child in the family to gain a Grade 12 certificate. He told me that he recognised that he was given an opportunity and was not going to waste it. A lot of expectation rests on his shoulders, but unless he progresses further he can't see how they will be fulfilled. His real dream is to become a doctor, but feels that a course in nursing would at least give him something. Appropriate courses at the University of Zambia in Lusaka cost 26,000ZMK per semester (approx £1,500) The course for a nurse is 4 years and for a doctor 7 years. Without sponsorship this will be impossible. I had to say that I couldn't help personally, but would tell his story. I know the likelihood is that Nelson will become another child whose potential is left unfulfilled.

Jennipher was my next visitor. The lady who was in Monze Hospital and transferred to Pemba clinic died yesterday afternoon. Jennipher looked worn out and said she didn't sleep last night. She was in Monze to buy a coffin. Tomorrow they will have the burial and the wake. In view of the situation with food, apparently the funeral process has been much shortened of late.

My final visitor of the day was Raymond, who came bearing mangoes!! - I should have mentioned that Angelina brought me Chibanto (sweet beer) and roasted groundnuts! - So today I have been well gifted!!

The power was on and I was cooking. So I added a little more rice and we had a decent meal for two. We chatted a bit about politics and flights to and from the UK.

I think it is important to talk and share ideas – even buying groceries from stallholders often presents an opportunity to share some thoughts. I often have to apologise for my inability to speak Chitonga – the local language. Very few people here speak just a single language. Most will be able to converse in four or five Zambian languages and also do a good job in English. They put us to shame!.

Chris

P.S. Apologies for the poverty of relevant photos I will try to take more in future!!

Some challenges for many living in Zambia today

Thursday 21^st November

The cicadas are singing in chorus this morning. It is usual for an evening choir to fill the air with sound just after dark, but I cannot remember hearing them so expressive in the morning. It has n non stop for the past couple of hours. I suspect that this is a response to the coming of the rains – maybe some baby cicadas will soon be on their way!

I have already been in Zambia for a week – though as I mentioned before it is hard to think of being anywhere else. Power comes and goes, but I haven't yet woken and found electricity in the house but it always seems be come on around 22hrs – I am told it goes off at 5hrs, but I can't confirm that!

Debt is a terrible problem! Fortunately, apart from buying my house, I have been able to keep clear of debt myself. Unfortunately there are people who make a fortune out of lending to the vulnerable. In the UK we have pay day loan companies who are allowed to charge in excess of 1,000% p.a. I don't believe that anyone who is so desperate that they have to take loans at these rates is likely to be able to repay. In Zambia many also find themselves borrowing money and never getting out of date.

Luke visited me in the morning. He now lives and works in Chikuni. Although he has worked hard to gain additional qualifications he has not been promoted for 15 years and is still on the same grade as when he started in the Health service after school – despite operating in the role of Human Resources Manager. The economy in Zambia is struggling. Zambia has borrowed a huge amount of money in recent years from the Chinese Government and now has to start repaying. Luke told me that 70% of the country's income is now being used to service this debt!! The result is that there is little money for basic services such as Health. There are few drugs available – patients are given a prescription and need to find money to buy from a pharmacy, if they are to be treated. Even finding enough money to buy food to feed the patients is now a problem! The government has a system to allow employees to borrow at an interest rate of 30% p.a. The “loan companies” charge 30% per month! It seems that many, if not the majority of employees regularly take advantage of the government scheme! Of course this leads into a spiral of debt with less money available to live on each month and more used to service the debt. There is a small government fund which allows an advance on the salary with no interest, but, as you might expect, this soon vanishes.

Luke has a niece who was hit by a motorcyclist early in the year and was severely hurt. She is in need of extra physiotherapy. The girl lives in Kabwe – about 90 Km east of Lusaka. The physiotherapy includes electrical stimulation and is carried out in Lusaka – of course if the money could be found for treatment and transport, there is no guarantee that there would be electricity available for the electrical stimulation. Luke is currently doing a distant learning course. He needs to take exams in December in Choma – about 100Km south of Monze. The exams are spread over two weeks, so he either has to travel back and forth or rent a place and stay for the period – in either case there are considerable costs involved.

Such are the day to day challenges in Zambia at this time.

I failed to meet with Best in May and was determined to meet up this time. In the event he contacted me not long before I left the UK.

I met Best some years back – I think it was 2005! I was trying to develop a link between the churches of Our Lady of the Wayside, Monze and St. Gregory's, Cheltenham. There were some children from the church who wanted to go into secondary education, but their parents, or more likely, their guardians, could not afford the fees - secondary education is not free in Zambia. Best was one of those children. He did well at school and passed his grade 12 exams (GSCE/A level equivalent). He was keen to follow a course in law and obtain qualifications. With the support of some parishioners at St. Gregory's he was able to obtain a certificate in law and subsequently a degree. He continued studying and doing a little legal work and after a few more years took his bar exams. All seemed well, but because of issues with payments and dates for submission of work he was denied his certificate and made to retake some exams the following year. Life for a poor student here in Zambia is very difficult. Obtaining legal qualifications involves a lot of research and the need to travel around the Country. The timescales are tight and transport is not reliable or as fast as in the UK! Generally work needs to be submitted at the University in Lusaka and again meeting the costs of transport and the timescales is a challenge. Penalties can be imposed if any deadline is missed and exam certificates can be withheld.

All seemed to be well, Best passed his exams the following year and was ready to graduate. However, at the last moment the authorities decided that he had made a couple of violations in terms of payments and timing and withheld the certificate that would have enabled him to work as a fully fledged lawyer. He will have to wait 5 years before trying again!!

Best continued to practice in Lusaka in the firm he had established. His wife then suddenly became very ill – unable to move or speak. The next few months he spend looking after his wife and travelling around trying to find a cure. Hospitals in Monze and Lusaka were unable to identify the disease, but the costs kept mounting and Best was unable to do much work.

The situation now is that he owes a considerable amount for office rental and his papers have been taken - so at the moment he is unable to practice law. He has also had to sell almost all of his land in Monze. Fortunately his wife is now recovering after taken some traditional herbal medicines.

I am aware of the wasted talent here in Monze. A couple of years ago Best was about to start on a promising legal career and even had thoughts of standing as an MP in the 2021 elections. I hope that somehow his ambitions can be brought back on track.

Diven was my next visitor. Diven's ups and downs are legendary!! He too has been looking after his sick wife for the past two or three years. Again visits to hospitals have not provided any answers, but have incurred significant costs. He is trying to find a way to get his business on track. He would like a shop in the market, where there is more business and some security. The latest thought is to bringing shop no 2 into use and join it to his house so that he can guard it from the house. Recently he has suffered from a number of thefts and he is not comfortable operating from his current shop.

Diven was fascinated by the pack of cards left in the Guest House. I tried to explain how we play cards and showed him a simple card trick – not that my conjuring skills are up to scratch. I also showed him the poker game I play on the computer and did my best to describe what was going on.

Chris

Wild Mushrooms

Tuesday 19^th November

It was 1 am when I turned in last night. Power came on at about 22 hrs and I needed a cup of tea before heading for the staffroom and internet. I used the opportunity to talk to Dilys and catch up on her activities.

This morning I intended to head straight off to Pemba, but just before I left Fr. Wilson came around. Fr. Wilson is newly appointed to Our Lady of the Wayside church and we only met briefly on the evening I arrived. It is important that we get to know each other a bit. So we chatted for an hour or so. He asked me if I would like to join them sometime when they visit some of those in need of food. I am keen to get a better idea of the situation here in Monze. I know that I will never fully understand, but I would like to see for myself, as long as my presence is welcomed. So I am very pleased to accept the invitation.

I have come to know a lot of Zambian priests over the years and most of them I have known firstly as people and friends. There are very few English priests to which I could make the same comment. It is probably partly the context in which we meet, but it is a privilege to have so many friends in the clergy – and many of them play a mean game of pool!!

I left the house at about 11 hrs and walked past a few empty vehicles that would be leaving for Livingstone - now now!! I said that I would wait to see which filled up quickest and then take a seat!! Eventually I followed a few passengers onto a bus – I was offered the front seat! A little while later I was ushered off the bus towards another just arriving. I was brought back because there was no room! This procedure repeated itself a couple of times until I was seated in the front of a bus which appeared to be full. I was amazed to find a working seatbelt and the guy beside me followed my lead and strapped himself in. After a few minutes and a few extra passengers we moved along the Livingstone Road - I hesitated to ring Jennipher until Monze was properly behind us. A hundred yards down the road we pulled over, we then turned and headed in the Lusaka direction. Fortunately it wasn't far before we stopped, took on another passenger and turned around once again. We stopped a couple more times before heading away from Monze towards Livingstone. There would be numerous stops before we made it to Pemba – 35 Km down the road. We arrived at about 13 hrs! Jennipher had been at the “lion” waiting from before I left Monze. However she wasn't entirely idle and presented me with two wild mushrooms that she had found whilst waiting. You might be thinking that two mushrooms is hardly a feast – but you would be wrong! The smaller mushroom is a solid lump the size of my fist and the larger was four time the size. I ate the top of this mushroom this evening and it was easily equivalent to a small punnet of mushrooms we would buy at the supermarket. I was a little taken back by the taste at first – probably because I am used to the bland flavour of most of our mushrooms. This was quite strong, but oh so delicious!! I hope that some of the hungry people around here will also be able to enjoy a mushroom or two – even if they have no maize. For me it is luxury – for them perhaps vital. I don't know how nutritious the mushrooms are, but at least they fill the stomach.

Jennipher and a lady from her group escorted me to Jennipher's house. On my own I would still get lost! Jennipher quipped that I could find my way from Zambia to England, but still couldn't find my way to her house from the road side!!

It was good to meet up with Jennipher' family again. Soloman was hoping that I had remembered his request for some new sandals – I didn't disappoint! Obadia was unhappy he had to take his shoes off at school a couple of days back and someone stole them. He was upset that he had to use his plastic home sandals at school – he took my backpack in the hope of finding a pair of new shoes for himself!! Everyone is growing – even since May changes have taken place. Maria is now about the same age as Selina was when I first met her. Selina is Maria's mother! Emmanuel is quite a little man now and he still often thinks of my granddaughter Amy who was pictured with him as a baby. His white mother!

The teacher who looks after the children in the pre-school was also there – he mentioned that only a small number of children attend these days. If they were provided with some porridge the class would be full again.

I must just mention the electricity today! It just came on for a few seconds and vanished! There was no power before I left for Pemba and I expected it to come on around midday while I was away. So I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived back at 16.30 and there was power. It lasted for an hour or more and I didn't expect it to return until about 22 hrs, however we had power for another couple of hours from about 18.30. This is the first evening when, as darkness descends, there has been electricity for lights. Torches etc. don't quite give the right light. Light should come from above and be available as you move from room to room. So it was a great joy to have that facility this evening – not to mention several cups of boiling hot tea!!

Jennipher now has a variety of buildings on her land – most constructed by her cousin Soloman who lives in one of them and is a great help in many ways. I checked on the pigs and goats and spotted a few chickens and ducks wandering around the yard. Jennipher was pleased to hear that my daughter Helen now has a few chickens – three actually! Though I doubt that Jennipher's chickens are named!

Jennipher wants to develop a business to make her less reliant on me. Her plan is to buy and sell mattresses which the secondary school children need to take to their boarding schools. A client has a spare shop which she is willing to let Jennipher use. On the way to the shop Jennipher showed me the hand pump she uses to draw water – her mains tap has stopped working because the water level is too low at the reservoir. She also introduced me to a family where the husband recently had a stroke – I was introduced and I said hallo.

At the shop owner's house we met her family which includes a child unable to walk or support his head without help. He goes twice a week to Monze where there is a centre – The Holy Family – which provides physiotherapy.

It has been raining now for the past four hours. At first the rain was very heavy with thunder and lightening. It is more gentle now, but still heavy in UK terms.

The first rain beat me to Monze by a couple of days. A good shower occurred on Sunday afternoon and it rained again Sunday night. In my naïve view this is a promising start to the rainy season. The cattle are finding a little fresh grass to eat and pools of water where they can drink. Tomorrow Jennipher will plant some maize. She has two cows and a friend with a plough – between them they have the tools to plough the land and do a little farming!

Take Care,

Chris

Meeting Old Friends

Sunday 17^th November

It is already Sunday evening. This is my second visit when I have come independently. In theory this allows me to be very free and take time out. I have hardly stopped since I arrived.

In time I will say more about my friends, but if I give potted life stories as I go along I will have written a book.

Soon after I arrived on Thursday Fr. Wilson (Parish Priest of Our Lady of the Wayside) called around with a torch. He was followed quickly – in fact Jennipher arrived before he left - Jennipher is a friend I met in 2004.

On Friday I wanted to meet up with Mrs. Sianga - the founder and Director of PIZZ School and Diven. I could contact neither by phone.

I first needed to buy some essentials – particularly tea bags, cornflakes and milk!! I find it hard to function without tea – a few hours without caffeine and I can hardly function!! It is surprising, though I hardly eat cornflakes in the UK I find them very comforting here. All these items are more expensive here than in the UK.

I returned home and at 11hrs I experienced electric power for the first time since reaching Monze and had my first cup of tea since my flight from Nairobi the previous morning!

I decided to have a cooked meal while I had the chance and made enough for Jennipher who arrived at the appropriate time. She has been staying with a client who is very ill and in Monze Hospital. She was staying at Jennipher's house when I visited last year. There are essential medicines and other items which the hospital do not provide at present.

I headed to see Diven, but on my way Mr. Sianga spotted me and pulled his car off the road. I hadn't been able to contact his wife before leaving home – it was therefore quite a surprise to see me in Monze. He gave me a big hug – which is not uncommon when I meet old friends – male or female. I told him that I was on my way to see Mrs Sianga and should be there by 15hrs – it being about 13.30. At this time I was still with Jennipher who wanted me to meet her patient again. I was pleased to see the woman. While there Ireen (my tailor) appeared – and yes another big hug! Though a reasonable sized town there is a close community feel to Monze and I am always coming across friends.

Jennipher took me next to the ART department where they deal with the Antiretroviral drugs programme for HIV/AIDS. In the meeting room a girl said she knew me form PIZZ School and in the office I met Collins - another hug. I stayed at his mother's house on one visit while he was still at home. She was a nurse at Monze Mission Hospital and tried to establish a pro-life organisation in Zambia.

Oh! on the way to ART I heard a distant, but loud, call from Sebia. We first met many years ago when I was looking for a bus to Pemba where Jennipher lives. Sebia has worked for a number of years at the hospital tuckshop. Yes another big hug!!

I could hardly leave without seeing Teddy. Teddy has been a good friend since 2004 when we worked closely together with a great mutual friend – the late Bentoe who tragically was killed in a road accident in 2006. Teddy joined us at the tuckshop – another big hug!

Time was pressing! I hurried on – only stopping for a quick hug with Brian – a Rasta guy who has a very basic stall along the road from the robots. (Traffic Lights)

Diven was bathing so I quickly said hallo to his uncle and Delia his wife – and yes!!

When I arrived at PIZZ School I realised Mrs Sianga wouldn't be there and I had unnecessarily added at least 20 minutes to my journey. On the way from the school I met Killian who has been helping Mrs Sianga with the administration in recent years.

When Mr Sianga told his wife that I was in town she didn't believe him! She seemed rather pleased to see that in deed I was not just an apparition but had arrived in flesh and blood.

I blame Mrs. Sianga for making me fall in love with Monze and in particular it's people. In 2003 I came in theory to build an ICU at Monze Mission Hospital. I realised before I came that this couldn't be the real reason. Our hosts were asked to show us a bit more of the life and culture of the country. Mrs. Sianga was a full time nurse at the time and her job was to visit patients with AIDS in their homes. In 2003 ARVs (Antiretroviral Drugs) were not available so, other than given some paracetamol tablets for the pain and some comforting words, there was little that could be done. Invariably the patients died. I had the tremendous privilege of accompanying Mrs. Sianga one afternoon. I was welcomed into the very basic houses of women in the final days of their lives. It was a humbling experience and one that I have repeated many times in the following years – though thankfully ARVs are now readily available. Mrs. Sianga got to know the families and wanted to help the children who had been left behind. So PIZZ School was born and with support from Hands Around the World has flourished.

Chris

Settling back in Monze

Friday 15^th November

Yes it is still Friday and I have 55 minutes before my laptop runs out of power!

The Curia is the offices of the Bishop. A rather impressive complex – perhaps a bit too grand for Monze where many people live in mud brick houses. There is a three bedroomed bungalow at the back of the grounds and that is where I stay. It is comfortable with a large lounge/dining room and all the necessary facilities. It's not 5 star luxury but it has water and even hot water! There is a cooker where 3 out of 4 hot plates work – though getting anything settings other than on or off is a challenge. The oven works as evidenced by the thick clouds of smoke coming out of it earlier. I have a fridge-freezer – new this visit – and the kettle I bought in May was waiting for me when I arrived. Apparently the Guest House is designed for 7 people! There is no evidence of any other guests - in fact only on a couple of nights have I shared the house other than with Ben who was a HATW volunteer who came out with me a few years ago.

I must now pause a while. The electricity is back on!! This morning it came on at 11hrs and lasted till almost 15 hrs. It is now just after 21 30! I need to have a serious tea drinking session to bring my caffeine levels back up!!

When the power goes on everything goes on charge because you can't be sure how long it will last and when it will return. You only realise how comforting electricity can be when you lose it!

So here I manage very well. Water is a major problem here in this area. Wells and small reservoirs have dried up. The Kariba dam hasn't sufficient water to drive the turbines – hence the electricity shortages. The curia, however, has it's own borehole, so, as long as there is enough electricity to pump water into the tanks, we are ok – and you can guarantee that every minute that the electricity is flowing the pump is working!

Those most affected have little direct concern about electricity rationing – they have no power supply to their home, so it has little effect! For them it is water and food that present the problems. In Monze Diven tells me that most taps no longer produce water He is fortunate. For some reason his tap still gives a good supply he tells me that he has people knocking on his door at 5 am and a queue of people wanting water from his tap. They pay him 50 ngwee for 20 litres (about 3p) which is less than he pays the water authority – but he is making friends!!

Perhaps for those new to my blog I should introduce Diven. I met him in 2003 outside the hospital offices with a plaster on his ankle. He told me he had some work as a debt collector and a client objected to his visit and smashed a rock onto his leg. Since that time Diven has had many adventures!! He now has a shop and house on the west side of Monze. He has a wife Delia and two children – Paul and Lwendu. Delia has been ill for two or three years and the doctors cannot identify the cause. She has difficulty walking. I would love to be able to help if it was possible – what joy if one day she could run again. Unfortunately finding the medical expertise necessary is unlikely. A shop owned by people from outside Zambia has opened a few plots from Diven. What was tough previously now seems impossible. Apparently Zambians will always favour a foreign owned shop than one owned by Zambians. I have noticed that locally made drinks etc. are inevitably refused in favour of Coca Cola products – though perhaps that is the same worldwide – unfortunately.

Mealie meal (cornflour) is the staple diet in Zambia, because the crops failed in this part of Zambia the price has rocketed and has now doubled. In the rural areas (villages) the situation is much worse with water supplies dried up and no crops to eat. Farmers try to sell what animals they have to raise money for food – which needs to be fetched from a distant town. A couple of years ago I visited a “village” about 50km from Monze – their nearest town!

Chris