More visitors and visits

It's not only friends that visit me here at my house! I have a small house frog that enjoys my shower, a sparrow came to say hallo in my second bedroom! Lizards regularly pop their heads in at the windows and I wouldn't feel at home here without the odd spider!

I visited the hospital briefly yesterday and chatted for a while with Sr Juunza, the Hospital Administrator. She told me that funding has been greatly increased and the number of doctors and nurses are dramatically higher than in former years. Hopefully this will greatly improve the outcomes at the hospital. I was surprised how many people at the hospital knew me.

I had a grand tour of the new Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, built since my last visit. It is an impressive building, very bright and peaceful inside. After my visit I met with the new Bishop – Bishop Raphael who greeted me with a big hug. We have known each other for some years, when he was a priest at our Lady of the Wayside.

A lot has happened over the past few days with visits to many friends including Obert's family where I caught up with Nancy. I also called in on Charles and Brian visited me at home.

I will be leaving for the UK very soon. The time has run away very fast.

Chris

Challenges Galore

Jennipher continues to bring Groups to see me. An HIV/AIDs support group wants to start raising village chickens. These chickens are allowed to roam freely and I think they also are a different breed to the usual “broilers”. They taste very different to the usual chickens – very rich and rightly prized. There seems to be more profit from these birds.

For some reason this group isn't part of a co-operative and doesn't therefore qualify for farming inputs. They do however qualify for a different scheme where each person pays 400 Kwacha to receive fertiliser worth about 6,000 kwacha. It was decided that the money nthey would have used to start rearing chickens would be better used to grow groundnuts using the 400 kwacha deal.

A couple of days back Diven noticed a leak close to his water tap. The meter was clocking up and the ground becoming wet. A plumber will be needed to rectify the leak. He is trying to find a buyer for his plot and a few posters are needed.

Obert lent his car to a friend who seems to have hit something, resulting in a leak from the gearbox. On further inspection driving on caused significant damage to the gearbox. As a taxi driver Obert needs to get back on the road.

Each day brings more challenges for people here in Monze. People come to me thinking I can help them with a job or advice on how to set up a business. The problem is that there are far too few local black Zambians who have acquired the skills to establish businesses. In Monze there is no industry so most people rely on buying and selling. However, larger businesses and supermarkets have made it almost impossible to produce enough income in this way.

Farming has been another way for people here to make a living, but with the unpredictability of the
weather caused by Global Warming this too is becoming very difficult. Last year the rain was too heavy and washed away fertiliser as soon as it was applied. As a result crops were very poor.

On Sunday I went to mass at Our Lady of the Wayside – about 2.5 km from where I stay. It is a joy to hear the singing booming out and filling the church. They have a fishpond in the grounds of the church to bring in some extra income. In the afternoon I met with St. Veronica's Small Christian Community for prayers. I joined this sub-section of the parish in 2005 or 2006. They talk almost entirely in Chitonga – so for much of Sunday I understand very little of what is being said – to my shame!. We meditate on next week's Gospel which I find enlightening. It is good to be part of this group – I am always warmly greeted – the older ladies giving me a very hearty slap of the hand and a handshake. Next week we will meet here at Truckers – saving me a walk of about 1.5 km each way.

I still find some time to sit in the garden. I need some space to think about what I am experiencing and how to attempt to resolve a few issues. A lot of prayer is needed at the moment and for me that means trying to be still and listening for a bit of guidance. Some years back when walking I started getting frustrated that I couldn't positively identify birds that I saw. I looked up and saw perched on a branch a completely black bird with a forked tail. Looking in my book I saw a bird that fitted the description. The book said Forked Tailed Drongo – the only perching bird which is totally black with a long forked tail. At last I could positively identify at least one bird!! Since then my identification has improved. The past few days I have seen the Forked Tailed Drongo flitting around the garden on a number of occasions.

I met Angelina at her stall this afternoon. I wanted to return her container which was filled with Chibwantu – a drink made from maize. She told me of family and friends who had recently lost wives, sisters, brothers and children. Two of the key members of St. Veronica's have lost their wives since I last visited. All these people are relatively young – perhaps 30s or 40s – some much younger.

I was told that during COVID nurses and doctors would keep away from patients from fear of catching the disease, though many of those Angelina mentioned died from other causes.

I passed by the shop where Samson works and we chatted for a while. He told me that his brother Alick sent his greetings. I bumped into Brian again and got his phone number. We agreed that we would meet at Truckers sometime and have a chat.

 

Chris

Familiar sounds and situations

On Saturday the power was off for most of the day. There have been a few power cuts since I have been here – this was the longest. Water has been very reliable - just a few minutes here and there when the water failed to come out of the taps! Fortunately this cottage is supplied from a borehole and it is unlikely that water will be a problem. Occasionally, if the pump is not switched on at the right time, there will be a short break. Others are not so lucky. Many still queue for water and buy it at municipal taps. As we come to the end of the dry season mains water can become a problem.

I visited my favourite little dam, or lake, yesterday. The water is very low, but there were spots where youngsters could show their acrobatic skills doing somersaults, there landings softened by the water – they could also swim a little. There were very few birds about. A couple of cattle egrets and a few African jacanas were all I spotted. Herds of cows were being led too and from the lake for a drink and to feed on the grass which still grows by the receding water. I had forgotten about the sound of the cow bells which now gently followed the herds. Goats were also at the lake in abundance. A donkey started neighing and two others from opposite sides of the lake joined in the donkey chorus – not the most melodic of sounds, but it made me smile!

The town has changed quite a lot since my last visit. There are quite a number of decent sized supermarkets, a few more restaurants and sophisticated electronics and phone shops that have moved in along the main street - the road to Lusaka. In fact this is part of the Great North Road, once intended to link Cairo to the Cape. From one of the phone shops I bought a new cable for my phone to download photos – I should therefore be able to populate this blog with pictures.

I continue to meet friends. Jennipher has brought me members of a number of support groups who are looking to raise extra funds or provide food in coming months. The government has established a system whereby groups can organise themselves into co-operatives. The government will then provide seed and fertiliser for planting as we come towards the rainy season. Most of the groups live on the edge of survival and even raising a few pounds to register or perhaps £50 or £60 to transport the goods is beyond them. If the money is found they can benefit from the government supplies, which are significant.

One of the groups to which Jennipher introduced me is a group that supports people with disabilities. They are going to buy second hand clothes for sale. Another supporting widows is buy flour and cooking oil to make fritters.

There are friends here with big challenges. For various reasons their lives have been disturbed and they need a lot of support to try to put things back on a steady footing. I have followed the lives and projects of som
e of my friends for many years through their ups and downs. It is disheartening when their dreams are shattered.

Yesterday I played pool for the first time this year. I invited Best to join me and very soon we were joined by the local players. The table is quite good, but I had difficulty adjusting to the cue which no longer has a tip! My success rate was poor, but I expect it to improve. I almost felt sorry for a guy when it looked like he was totally beaten. He then went into another gear and cleared the table!!

Best hit problems when his wife took ill. Costs of treatment took his assets and he has had a struggle. He thought he had cleared his exams to be elected to the Bar, but technicalities robbed him and he still has exams to clear before being considered again. Even for someone with a law degree life can present major problems.

Diven has a good house and shop, but finds he cannot do business in his current position, so is looking to sell up and start in another environment. His concern is the time it might take to find a buyer and how he will cope in the meantime.

Other friends, like Jennipher, are involved in the community and have established projects which are providing significant benefit for many. I try my best to support friends in their attempts to help others and fight to get their projects back on track.

Along the road I see guys pushing wheelbarrows of all shapes and sizes, designed for a variety of goods. Ladies carry bowls of fruit and vegetables on their heads and huge trucks trundle through the town – all very familiar to me, though different to back home.

Chris

Reading and Sitting in the Garden

I am not disappointed that my TVs only have local channels.

I very rarely have had access to the tv while in Zambia and it forces me to do other things – mainly reading. Today was a reading day. I finished my crime thriller by Margaret Yorke – she takes a lot of effort to build a picture of each character and her dark tales are perhaps a bit close to the truth. Ordinary people committing awful crimes. I am now on a John Grisham book which seems unfamiliar.

I almost had a day off! I enjoy meeting friends, but invariably they come with a host of challenges and sometimes it is good, and necessary, to take time out to contemplate and relax a bit. The garden continues to be a wonderful sanctuary. A lilac breasted roller spent time with me this morning. I have seen these beautiful birds before. One used to like to perch on the power line by PIZZ School. The name I believe comes from their elaborate courting display.

It is surprising what a difference it makes when I am welcomed to each new day at 6 hrs with the sun rising quickly and shining through the curtains of my bedroom. There has been some cloud, but most of the time the sun shines brightly and temperatures rise to about 30°C. There is usually a pleasant breeze in the garden to cool a little.

I continue to meet up with friends. Best popped around yesterday. It must have been about 2005 when I first met Best as a boy at secondary school. We met a few times in Monze and kept in touch. He went on to take a degree in Law and is now married with two children of his own and looks after two children from a sibling.

Yesterday I intended to just pop into a couple of shops nearby, but found myself wandering around the outside market looking for chitenge material for Ireen to make me some shirts. She has made me at least one shirt on every visit since 2004 – I have a fair stock now!! On the way back I called in at the hospital tuck shop to say hallo to Sebia. When she spotted me she left her kiosk and ran to give me a huge hug. Many years ago I was trying to find a bus to Pemba to go to see Jennipher and Sebia guided me to right place. Because she works at the hospital, we have come across each other regularly over the years. From the tuck shop I rang Teddy, not realising he hadn't yet retired. He appeared a little later at the tuck shop. I worked with Teddy for a number of years at the hospital from 2004. At the time he worked with his great friend Bentoe – who also became a good friend of mine. Bentoe was killed in a terrible car accident in 2006 while Dilys was with me here in Monze. Teddy took over Bentoe's role as Information Officer, but has always had to live with the title Acting Information Officer.

Chris 

P.S. Apologies for the lack of photos. I am having problems at the moment transferring files from my phone. I am working on it!! 

First Days back in Monze

After 3 very strange years away, I am quickly acclimatising to life back here in Monze. Of course friends such as Jennipher and Diven have been to see me at my new house.

I have a decent sitting area in my house, but I like to sit outside in the garden. It attracts a lot of birds. The sparrows and pied crows play on the lawn, but in the trees are beautiful Starlings whose feathers shine a beautiful iridescent greeny blue – a truly beautiful tropical bird.

I went to Our Lady of the Wayside church on Sunday and was warmly greeted by fellow members of St. Veronica's Small Christian Community who wanted a picture taken. Inevitably some friends are no longer with us. Queen who was one of the first Community members that I met has sadly passed on. Her son Brian escorted me to her house so that I could meet with the group many years ago. The Community meet most Sunday's in the afternoon, in each other's houses – or more accurately outside each other's houses. I would never be able to find the next meeting point without a guide. Usually someone will meet me, if not someone will be able to help me on my way! Kennedy's wife also died and tested positive for COVID. I was told a lot of the elderly had died.

The day I arrived in Monze the traffic lights were off. On enquiry I was told that the electricity bill hadn't been paid! The lights have worked since – when they are out, it is now because the power is down! We have had several power cuts since I arrived. It took me a while one evening to realise that I needn't sit in the dark. I have 5 solar security lights with me!!

Ireen found me very early on. She has been my tailor since 2004 and makes me several shirts each year. She now has a business selling mattresses two of her children are now helping at the shop – I remember when she was struggling to pay their school fees.

I enjoy walking to the market to buy vegetables and spices. The lady who has sold me spices over many years was not around – another lady seems to have taken over her stall. A lady from the church sells me nsala a root vegetable which I coat with pounded groundnuts after boiling and then fry. This appears to be a unique way to prepare the vegetable, but it makes them very tasty!

As I was buying vegetables in the market a lad came up to me with a huge smile and greeted me. He reminded me who he was. When he and his brother were young they lost their parents and were on their own. Mrs. Sianga found them and took them into her school. She also introduced them to a benefactor who provided a small house for them to live in. With a watchful eye kept on them the young children thrived. He was looking very well and is now working in a shop near to the market.

Angelina popped around earlier today. I know her well from the church. Her son Nelson is in Lusaka training to become a nurse and wants to come to Monze this weekend to say hallo. Mike said hallo a couple of days ago. He was working at Nampeyo Guest House in 2003 where we stayed on our first visit. He has struggled in recent years, but seemed to be in good health and spirits when we met.

I continue to meet with friends and there are many more that I will see in the coming days. All have stories to tell, many have challenges to overcome. Occasionally I can make a difference and help them have a better life. Obert came around a few days back, in his taxi. When I first met him Obert said he had a problem. He walked with a limp because one leg had grown, but the other, being artificial, had not! A friend in the UK offered to pay for a new leg and a couple of years later, when I located Obert – in fact he found me – things got sorted. Since then I have come to know him well, along with his parents. He obtained his driving licence and is now a taxi driver. He has a wife and child and has built himself a small house. He came around to show me he latest car.

My purpose in coming to Monze is to catch up on friends. It is by sitting and chatting that I learn a little more about this very different country. The change in President seems to have brought about positive changes. As with all things, change takes time and sometimes the interim can be challenging. For instance eduction including Secondary is now meant to be free. However, this isn't the case. I am told that it has reduced in cost, but is not free and therefore is still beyond the reach of many. Some extra teachers have been appointed to try to accommodate extra children at school, but they are not enough and there are not the new schools to accommodate the children. However, things seem to be moving in the right direction.

I'll pop into town now and then no doubt return for lunch and spend some time reflecting in the garden.

Take care,

Chris

Back at my second home

It is time that I posted my first blog from Monze in 2022.

I arrived after an uneventful flight. All my concerns were alleviated as I moved from Cheltenham to London, on to Amsterdam, Nairobi, Lusaka and 30 hours later reaching Monze. Covid regulations varied throughout the trip and the vast majority only wore face masks when obliged to do so.

Having taken all sensible precautions before reaching Monze, it would no longer be appropriate or necessary to wear masks etc. I have already shaken more hands since I arrived than in the previous 3 years!!

I am fortunate to have good accommodation in Monze. After a few challenges
I have a self contained small cottage with all I need including a large quiet garden and a pool table!! I now have a local SIM and access to the Internet.

It didn't take long for friends to call out or run over to greet me. The welcome I receive is so heart warming. Brian was one of the first to say hallo – a Rasta fist instead of a handshake, but accompanied by a big hug. I intended to keep in touch with Brian while in the UK but couldn't get through on the number I had. I have been chatting to Brian at his small stall over many years. At one time he would bring out his boxing gloves for a little gentle sparring. Brian is one of many intelligent guys who never had a chance to complete their education and thus their prospects are limited.

Being in the centre of town I venture out regularly and invariably meet old friends. On one occasion I didn't make 50 metres before being stopped by three people.

Ian stopped in his car – he was working at Monze Mission Hospital. I started some work on databases for the hospital in 2004. Working side by side over a number of years we got to know each other well – he told me he had a little shop just up the road.

Once again I failed to recognise Mrs. Chaambwa – something I have done consistently o
ver many years, it's amazing she still talks to me! I have always had difficulty recognising faces – my wife Dilys can confirm this as I didn't recognise her the day after I met her! Mr Chaambwa was the headmaster at Monze Basic School and I became involved in a small project at the school. Not that I was needed – Mr. Chaambwa was more than capable of managing the project. We continued the friendship long after the project finished and we used to go out for an occasional drink. Mr. Chaambwa died in 2018.

The third person was Elizabeth who I knew from PIZZ School. She told me that she passed her grade 12 exams but hadn't a job at this time. However she looked well, confident and happy. Children like Elizabeth would never have had a chance of education to grade 12. without PIZZ School. Government education does not cater for orphaned and vulnerable children. Although in theory education is free and has been, for the first years of education, for many years, the need for uniforms, shoes – even notebooks means the resources are not there and these children need extra support because of the daily difficulties their families face. I have known many of these children from PIZZ School since they were very young. The changes are dramatic – particularly in their liveliness and confidence – something you can't measure. Hundreds have been given a chance to realise at least some of their dreams.

I have met many more friends over the past few days and the smiles say it all. More of that next time!

I feel very blessed to have the opportunity to return to my second home.

With my love and prayers,

Chris

An Imminent Return

Preparing to Return

I am busy sorting myself out for the next trip to Monze. I managed to get COVID and Flu boosters today, I have had a Typhoid booster which brings all my jabs up to date – though I wasn't pleased that I was told by my surgery that I had to go private for this jab, despite being within the prescribed time frame. I managed to squeeze in another blood donation – I might still get to 100!!

I keep remembering bits and pieces I need to find or buy. I have a “new” laptop which I need to set up for my use in Zambia. There is no chance however that it will make the return journey. I am receiving lists from my friends – many requests will not be met!! My mosquito net received a wash today – it should be retreated tomorrow.

I have some solar lights to take out – though somehow I have mislaid a couple! Some years back I visited a rural health centre. I remember seeing a patient leaving in an ox-cart – ambulances are still very much a luxury in Zambia. The midwives were complaining that women would come to the clinic during the night, about to give birth, and they would forget to bring with them a candle! The thought of delivering by the light of a candle is not something to contemplate – let alone delivering without one!! I decided that there must be a way of improving the situation. So next year I brought a solar security light with me which could be switched to stay on constantly. I wasn't sure how effective it would be, but I thought it was worth a go! After some months, I asked my friend Jennipher whether it was OK and how long it would stay lit. She told me it lit the room all night. Apparently a women was so pleased she decided to name a child after me. So some poor Zambian child now bears the name Barrell!!

I have been glancing at the weather in Zambia and for some weeks - it appears to be sunny and upper 20s or low 30s. I can remember not seeing any cloud for 4 weeks or so on past visits! After such a period, even a small cloud is a delight!

As usual I approach the trip with joy, but also some trepidation. I know that I will find that some friends are no longer around and that I will experience some harrowing scenes. Many of my friends face great challenges – some health related, but most have economic problems. Many find it increasingly difficult to support their families. Providing education is a huge challenge and, although in theory a lot is free, I know from my friends that without external support the children would not be educated.

Many of my friends have tried to develop businesses, but for various reasons these often struggle and some fail. I will be faced with many challenges – particularly on this visit. There is a lot to catch up on since my last visit in 2019.

I will keep you up to date with my adventures.

Take care,

Chris